(Clockwise, from left: Simplicity 3688 and self-drafted top; self-drafted top; self-drafted vest and skirt with Cashmerette Harrison shirt)
Hi Curvy Sewing Collective! I’m excited to contribute to the Sewing for My Curves series today. If you want to see more of my sewing adventures (and my Old English Bulldog, Imogen), you can find me at @rare.device on Instagram.
What are your measurements/body shape?
I’m an hourglass-to-pear shape, with a generous butt, thighs, calves, and upper arms. I love sewing partially because I can get a perfect fit when RTW lets me down, but also because I can create things more fantastical, playful, and in line with my preferred dandy femme gender presentation than RTW offers!
(Clockwise from top left: Colette Ceylon, Colette Hawthorn, Colette Dahlia)
My measurements:
- Upper Bust: 43”
- Bust: 47”
- Under Bust: 38”
- Waist: 37”
- Hips: 52”
- Height: 5’7”
- Bra Size: 38G
I’m usually an 18-20 in RTW, and cut between a 20-24 in the Big 4 patterns.
(Left to right: Helen’s Closet Winslow Culottes, Colette Hawthorn, Helen’s Closet Winslow Culottes hack)
What adjustments do you typically make when sewing?
I most often start with grading between sizes. I generally like a close fit, but am 2-3 sizes different between my waist and hips. I’m new to doing adjustments the “proper” way, having gotten by with tweaks and darts here and there for most of my sewing life, but I’m rapidly and voraciously learning more. I’ve recently started doing full bust adjustments (FBAs), and learning that skill has completely changed my sewing – no more too-big shoulders and gaping necklines! I always have to do a full bicep adjustment on things with sleeves, and sometimes I add length to the sleeves as well. I often end up doing variations on sway-back, full belly, and full seat adjustments as well, depending on the cut of the garment. I have a long torso and high waist, so I often bring the waistline up on bodices.
(Clockwise from top left: Seamwork Paxson, Seamwork Hayden, Seamwork Paxson)
What are your favorite/go-to styles and sewing patterns?
I reach for Colette and Seamwork patterns a lot, the latter especially if I want a basic shape to build on. While I have a few repeat patterns (Colette Hawthorn blouse and shirtdress, Seamwork Hayden and Paxson tops, Helen’s Closet Winslow Culottes), I am more often drawn to trying new patterns or designing my own patterns as I perfect my bodice and skirt slopers. I feel like it’s becoming rarer these days for me to sew up a pattern with its intended lines, preferring instead to start from a more basic pattern and modify the lines to create my vision, like taking a wrap dress bodice and making a vest with a peplum and shawl collar.
(all self-drafted)
I am most often drawn to things with defined waists and full lower halves, like flared and circle skirts or wide-legged trousers. Anything high-waisted immediately piques my interest! That being said, I will try lots of different silhouettes out at least once. I’ve been very into boxy and swingy crop tops lately and have been trying out more vintage silhouettes like ‘20s dropped waists. Sewing also lets me indulge my nerdy fan side, with some Captain America and Captain Marvel makes under my belt (and maybe some Wonder Woman coming up!)
(Clockwise from top left: Simplicity 4079 vest, Simplicity 4079 vest and self-drafted tie, Simplicity 3688 trousers)
My day-to-day style includes a lot more “menswear” than my sewing wardrobe would suggest, as I tend toward a dandyish androgyny. Besides some waistcoats, bowties, and one recent Cashmerette Harrison shirt, though, I’ve not sewn as much masculine-of-center clothing as I have feminine-of-center items. However, that’s something I seek to rectify, with more button-front shirts, some good straight-leg trousers, and maybe a blazer on my (very long) sewing queue.
(Left to right: Seamwork Florence and Geneva, self-drafted swimsuit)
I also recently made my first swimsuit, which I’ve dubbed my soft butch bikini, and I look forward to diving into more androgynous swimwear, lingerie, and loungewear, which can be frustratingly hard to find in RTW, especially in plus sizes. I so value having a set of skills that allow me to realize so many of my sartorial daydreams!
I love your style! and the panache with which you carry the clothes!
Wonder Woman indeed!!!!!!!
Thank you!
I am in love! I think you are my style buddy cause i am feeling almost every thing you showed. (I used a tshirt pattern to make my own Captain Marvel shirt which is my fave). I love the classic and fem lines of your main sewing and i wish i felt comfortable in the more masculine set at the bottom. It doesn’t flatter my shape though and thus makes me feel uncomfortable. I love your style and you have done some amazing sewing. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thank you! And yay, fellow Captain Marvel sewing fan! I think “masculine” silhouette pants can be tricky for those of us who are round and curvy. I tend to go with either skinnies or wide-leg, both of which are more feminine-coded, but someday I’d like to perfect a straight-leg pants pattern that feels good on my body.
There are some beautiful trousers in a masculine cut on the Merchant and Mills Workbook. My sewing abilities are nowhere near the level required for them, but I have seen a few versions online that are stunners. Love your wardrobe!
Thanks for sharing your makes shannon, i am wowed! Some people have no style at all and here u are slaying! So! much! Thats the thing, we as individuals are not just one dimensional, we have many different things that inform our personal style and self expression and you have showed me that i dont need to choose just one style/subculture i can sew it all. 1940 femme , riot grrrl diy , hipster and art teacher lewks. you do you shannon x
Thank you so much! I agree; I think there’s no reason to limit yourself to one look if you don’t want to!
Apart from the most covetable kilt I have ever seen, what I really love best here is how you used sewing to take control of how you present yourself.
Thank you so much! That’s certainly the most important — and fun! — part of fashion and sewing for me.
Gosh, I just love everything you do. (JugoNevas from IG here ✋?) There are so many times you make something that, even though I know it doesn’t *really* fit with my aesthetic, makes me go “oooh! I need dat!” To me, that’s just so, so powerful and such a statement to your skill, talent, and style sensibility that even when something isn’t “me,” you make me want it. Bravo! (Also, I didn’t realize you’re an art historian! One of my good friends was training as an art historian until she zigged – or maybe zagged – into a life as a digital archivist.)
Oh, gosh, thank you so much! I feel like I have a very specific aesthetic that is nonetheless cobbled together from bits I’ve borrowed from others, so I know what you mean! And yay art historians branching out in the world! It’s a discipline that has a lot of application across all sorts of professions.
I appreciate your creative approach to drafting your own styles! How wonderful–thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much!
Love love love your style! You’re making me want a waistcoat!
Thank you! Waistcoats are the best!
LOVE! the range of garments in your post. Such great variety and playful takes on vintage style. It makes so much sense that you are a historian. Keep those wonderful clothes coming!
Thanks so much! I do find a lot of inspiration in history and art, and I love putting my own spin on them!
I love your style! You’re so talented and so, so stylish. I love the vests! And the kilt + tulle combo — everything really, I’m just gushing now, I know. But it’s sincere gushing! You’ve given me the courage to try fitting some menswear-inspired styles, as we’re very much the same size and shape (though I am admittedly shorter). Thank you so much for sharing your work here. Fabulous stuff!
Thank you so much! Have fun trying out menswear styles! I think they’re just great fun to play with – lots of textures and patterns available, and so many opportunities for good layering!
WOW!!! girl you have some serious talent and skills!! Congrats on all your outfits…what a range of styles with a great fit throughout.
Thank you so much!
Really cute pieces. Love the self-drafted items and ADORE the culottes!
Thank you! The culotte pattern is so great – I think I’m gradually going wider and wider in the trousers I choose to sew 🙂
I quite agree with all of the praise for your sewing and designing creations!! The self-drafted black swimsuit is such a cool way for plus sized ladies to do sexy! (And I’m a plus sized old lady!)
But I do want to ask about your hairstyle. I like it and appreciate how you can still get a feminine look with buzz cut sides. Is your hair naturally thick and curly? I’m thinking my thin and fine hair couldn’t pull it off?
Thank you! My hair is pretty thick, and the curly texture is natural, though it takes a bit of styling/coaxing to hold its shape. I love undercuts/buzzed sides, though, and think people with a lot of different hair textures can pull them off! It just takes finding the right shape for the rest of your hair.
Fantastic collection – original, creative, personal. Thank you very much for sharing your wardrobe.
Thank you so much!
Wow! I love your style so much! Oh, to shop your closet. 🙂 I especially like your first photo with the simplicity pants — it looks like beach pajamas and I never even considered wearing something like that until yours.
Yes, beach pajamas were my inspiration there! In the summertime I always seem to want to dress in ’40s resort wear all the time – but it’s surprisingly versatile! Thanks!
Shannon, you are TALENTED!! All your self-drafted items as beyond fabulous though. Love your Colette/ Seamworks makes; do you have to do a lot of modifications to get the fit right for you?
Thank you, Abbey! I’m pretty close to Colette’s measurements for a size 18, so my first makes were a straight size 18 and fit decently well. Now I cut a 16 on top, 18 from the waist down and do a FBA and full bicep adjustment, and that’s usually good! I can fine-tune them more if I do a muslin, but I’m not always patient enough to do so.
Wonderful inspiration. Thank you for sharing such a wide variety of makes.
Thank you! I like to try out new things, so I really do end up with quite a varied wardrobe!
You seriously know how to sew to flatter! All this stuff looks amazing on you.
Thank you! Sewing has made me so much more particular about fit in all of my clothes, I think.
Wow!! Just wow. I read this post twice because the clothes are soooo cute and interesting. That kilt is amazing. I can appreciate your creative flair while recognizing that my style is more traditional. That’s why I love the Simplicity 3688 trousers. And guess what, I HAVE THAT PATTERN!!! I’m going to pull it out and get started on my version. Please continue to post more of your work.
Ha, ha. I just noticed that the post below me uses the same words to praise your work. That was purely coincidental – really, it was. I guess you’re pole axing us all with your skills.
Thank you, Claudia! The Simplicity 3688 trousers are a really good pattern – full but not too full. I did move the zipper from the side to the back so that I could add pockets, and added some length because I’m a little taller than average. I hope yours go well!
Wow. Just wow. I didn’t know there was a word for the style I aspire to. Thanks for that! And what fantastic and creative work you’ve done. Bravo!
Thank you! It’s actually taken me a while to figure out how to pin down in words what my style is and how it relates to my gender, but I’m pretty happy with femme dandy now. Thanks for your kind words!
I’m very new to sewing for myself, but what’s sparked the interest for me is the ability to realize my sartorial vision where RTW falls short. I love how you express yourself and your sense of style! You’ve got a gift!
Yes! RTW can only offer so much, and I love that sewing can help me create everything I imagine that I can’t find in stores (or can’t find in my size). Thank you, and good luck on your sewing!
Wow, incredibly stylish, and interestingly, you have very similar sizing to me! I think I’ll be using some of your sewing as inspiration for my own. I particularly like those waist coats, might try one of those first ?
Yay, thank you! Waist coats are such fun projects, because you can really play around with the fabric and button choices, and they make such a bold, dapper statement. Good luck on your sewing!
I love your sense of style! I’ll definitely be checking out a few of the patterns you made!
Thank you! I hope they work well for you!
You are amazing!!!!!!! That self drafted wrap/tulle skirt gave me life!!!!! Love it..Love it all!!!
Thank you so much!!! That skirt was such an exercise in screwing up and taking a breath and going a new direction, but I adore how it turned out. Not too many occasions to wear it, but still.
Wonderful clothing and everything looks amazing, beautiful fit too.
Thank you so much!
Awesome seamstress! Love everything! The culottes, fabulous fit on the jeans, i have always loved menswear….i could go on and on. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! I didn’t make the jeans (though I hope to tackle making my own soon!) but stretchy skinny jeans have totally changed the way I dress. I’m a little obsessed with that Helen’s Closet culottes pattern, though, and hope to make another couple of pairs this summer.
Oops…I meant ‘inspiring ! ‘
What a stunning collection you have put together!
You look gorgeous in every one of them…….truly inspiring?
I love your boldness with the colours and how you have made this look your very own.
You look so confident in the pictures, and no wonder.
Each picture is a fabulous statement.
Thank you for sharing you styles and inspiration!
Thank you so much! I really do feel more confident and more myself in bold colors, and I love that sewing gives me an opportunity to play with colors and patterns that aren’t as common in RTW.