When Andie and Megan found out they had both been asked to test the new Ophelia Overalls from Decades of Style, they realized it was the perfect opportunity for a really fun “Same Pattern, Different Bodies” post. After all, there is nothing like the release of a pattern for great pair of vintage inspired overalls to get everyone excited for spring (or fall) sewing! We hope you are as excited as we are about this fabulous new pattern.
The Ophelia Overalls are the perfect combo of our 3 favorite qualities; cute, comfy and unique! Their relaxed fit (5” of ease at the hip) is what makes them so comfy and the built-in side belts facilitate an adjustable fit at the waist. The large pocket on the pants wraps to the back seam and is cut on the cross grain (purchase extra fabric if you want to cut it on the straight of grain). The pattern goes up to a size 26, that’s a 52B-46W-55H.
- Measurements: 45″ bust, 41″ waist 52″ hip
- Body Shape: Representing team pear!
- Pattern size used: I cut the bib as an 18 at the top, but graded to the width of a 22 at the waist and used the size 22 for the waist and below. This was one size too big for my waist, but it was going to be really complicated to grade between sizes here and I definitely needed the 22 width for my hips. Do note that if you typically grade between sizes, you will need to use a little professional judgement here because there is a lot happening around the waist in terms of the amount of pattern pieces.I also cut the 26 at the crotch length/curve, grading back down to a 22 at the leg notches.
- Alterations: As this was a pattern test, I sewed it as designed. I did use snaps and the button are just tacked on the front. I didn’t want to try to make button holes for these large buttons. I took a 3″ hem so that they would be slightly cropped.
- Fabric: These are made out of the “sew classic” linen/rayon blend from Joann’s, its one they’ve had in stock for the last couple of years and I think its a great basic. It has a very different hand than the Brussels Washer Linen, which is also a linen rayon blend, its a bit more hefty and less scratchy. I bought the vest buckles from Pacific Trimming and the buttons were a lucky local find.
- Fit: The pattern fit really well as drafted, with the exception of some back leg drag lines, which are a fit issue I have on a lot of pants patterns, so it wasn’t a surprise. I ended up taking a 2″ swayback adjustment near the end of construction which miraculously totally fixed that fit issue (though its hard to tell because it was really windy when I was taking these photos). This pattern took me on a pants fitting deep dive, you can find way more information about that on my blog.
- Changes for future versions: Though I really don’t think I need two pairs of overalls in my closet, I saw another version made up in a thin wale corduroy and I may have to give that a go! Honestly, they are so fun and comfortable, that I think I am a total overall convert.
- Measurements: 52″ bust, 48″ waist 56″ hip
- Body Shape: My own
- Pattern size used: I cut a size 26.
- Alterations: I compared the crotch curve to a well-fitting trouser pattern and found that I would need to scoop out the front crotch curve a bit. Then I did a muslin and found that I needed a full belly adjustment. I didn’t add in the snaps since I think it stays closed fine without them.
- Fabric: Polkadot chambray from a local store.
- Fit: The back of the pattern fits perfectly without any alterations. I could use a bit more of a full belly adjustment in the front as the centre seams have a bit of stress showing on them and the length in the front is *just* slightly short, but not uncomfortable.
- Changes for future versions: A bit more of a full belly adjustment is required to give me the right amount of room and length in the centre front. Also, I totally forgot to raise the height of the side panels to accommodate the full belly adjustment so they don’t meet at the sides correctly. It doesn’t bother me in this version but I’ll make sure to do it for the future. More pictures in my blog post.
Disclaimer: Both Andie and Megan served as testers for the Ophelia Overalls and received the pattern free in exchange for their services.