While having yourself professionally measured is the most accurate way to obtain your measurements, it’s not always feasible nor something that you might want to go out and do. For me, I don’t think I’d want the possibility of someone snarking at my abundant measurements (although this has never happened) and I feel more comfortable doing this myself in the comfort of my own home. If you have someone that can help you — you’re darn lucky! If you don’t, no worries. You can do most of these measurements yourself!
First off, you’ll need a measuring tape and a full-length mirror.
Mirrors are always a good thing to have in your sewing room to check out your garment sewing process and they’re a good way to make sure that you’re measuring yourself in the right places. For this tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to measure on my dress form [as it’s easier to display] with a few examples of me measuring myself. [Yes, there’s lint on my form that I’m finding difficult to get off…]
Basic Measurements
If you’ve been sewing for any time, you’ll know that every pattern envelope has three basic measurements: Bust, Waist and Hip. These are the measurements that you really need, but to get a better fit, it’s best to do some added measurements. You may also want to take waist and hip measurements while sitting down.
- Bust: Measure across the fullest part.
- Waist: Place a string on the slimmest area of your torso and measure that.
- Hip: Measure the fullest/widest part of your thighs.
It helps to tie a string around your waist at the natural waistline and use that for a starting point for other measurements
Bust Measurements
It’s also good to measure your upper and under bust, especially if you are full busted.
- Upper bust: Measure under the arms and above the bust.
- Under bust: Measure just below the bust
- Bust apex to apex: Measure straight across the bridge
- Side neck to bust apex: Measure from the base of the neck at the shoulder seam to the apex on the same side of the body
- Bust apex to waist: Measure diagonally to the string at the waist
More Bodice Measurements
These measurements are great to have, especially if you’re making a fitted bodice. You’ll need help with the back waist measurement.
- Neck: Measure at the base of the neck.
- Front waist length: Measure starting at the base of the neck to the waist
- Back waist length: Measure from the base of the neck to the waist
- High hip: Measure about 3 inches below your waistline
Arm Measurements
These are very important when you’re making woven shirts with sleeves, especially if you have fuller biceps. I tape my measuring tape to myself to get the right measurement. It really helps to have someone help you with this.
- Bicep: Measure around the widest part of your arm
- Shoulder length: Measure from the base of the neck at the shoulder seam position to the shoulder
- Shoulder to elbow: Measure from the shoulder to the elbow
- Elbow to wrist: Measure from the elbow to the wrist bone
- Wrist: Measure around your wrist
Leg Measurements
For a tailored fit, these are very important when sewing trousers. These measurements are difficult to do on your own and it will work out much better if someone helps you.
- Thigh: Measure the widest part of your upper leg
- Inseam: Measure from the top of your inner thigh to your desired pants length
- Outseam: Measure from the waist to your desired pants length
- Crotch length: Measure from the waist back through the legs and up to the waist front
More Measurements
You’re probably going to need help with these measurements, too, if you want them more precise.
- Waist front to below knee: Measure from your waist to your knee
- Waist front to floor: Measure from your waist to the floor
- Body length: Starting at the back, measure from the base of the neck through the legs and up to the base of the neck on the front
From here, you can take any pattern and make it your own!
Thank you for this excellent information. I know how to sew but the fitting part has ALWAYS been a problem so I get frustrated and drift away from sewing because it ends up looking horrible. I have been greatly encouraged by your excellent website so am going to give it another go.
So I have a dumb question – For the bust measurement do you wear a bra when taking your bust measurements?
Yes, girlfriend, Sally and Lucy need to be standing tall and proud when measurements are taken. I sew for my daughter and she gets really agrivated to have to get fully dressed (spanks and all) if I’m measuring, say, an after five outfit
. I have different measurements for the different types of clothes. (Casual, Sunday Dress, Evening) which would depend on the under garments. This is just a few extra steps to look like one in a million!
I think this is a great guide and the explanations are very clear.
There is only one other measurement I might add, if you are doing a skirt or a pair of trousers it is well worth measuring from one side to the other: 1 across the front, and 2 across the back.
The reason for this is that we all distribute our weight differently across the stomach, bottom and hips. Some people carry their weight at the front, which needs a wider skirt or trouser at the front etc.
Most skirt and trouser patterns are equal, and if you sew them like that you may find that the side seams either come round the front, indicating a smaller at the back or go further to the back, indicating a larger bottom.
by taking these measurements you can increase or reduce each skirt or trouser pattern front or back to suit your figure.
I hope that makes sense.
Fantastic article with great visuals. This is so important when sewing for yourself or doing custom work for others because you can truly get the best fit. a good fit rarely comes from 3 simple measurements.
How do you measure a tilted waistline? Do I go with the natural tilt of my waist or do I need to keep the tape measure perpendicular to the floor? Which would then mean it’s about 3 inches above my belly button.
Good question, Brenda. I would say to keep it parallel to the floor, because you probably want the waistline (waist seam) of your garments to be parallel to the floor as well. But obviously it depends on how you want your clothes to fit – if you prefer your waist seam angled to match your waist, then do it that way.
My natural waist is 2-3″ above my belly button, too. That’s where I want waists to sit so that’s where I put the elastic/tape when measuring.
I found Don McCunn’s book on pattern drafting had some great tips for measuring and fitting yourself. the one I’ve used the most was to tie a string to the hole in the top of the tape measure. This gives you something to hold to get the top of the tape measure to where you want it. ie to have length to hold the top of the tape measure at the shoulder while the rest of the length drapes down your back to the waist, or I hold the string down with my foot and measure pants length from foot to waist. Having two mirrors so you can see the back without twisting is also really helpful.
I have a tape measure called MyoTape. It has a locking mechanism so you can measure yourself in the waist, hips, arms, etc. I recommend it without doubt (no affiliation with myotape). I have a dressform with an old bra, and I used some cushion filling to copy my bust (I feel is important to know exactly al your bust measurements). Thank you for your tips and pictures!
rac rac es mi idioma natal. un abrazo desde el mar caribe
Nice article. Such a good idea to tape the tape measure to yourself for some of the measurements.
It can also be useful to take front and back crotch length measurements, from *ahem* somewhere roughly in the middle (where the crotch and inseams should meet) to the front and back waist.
You mention briefly taking waist and hip measurements also when sitting down. I can’t stress enough how important this is, especially if you’re making more fitted clothing. I’ve got a five inch increase in hip size when I sit down (let’s face it: fat spreads). My waist size increases, too, but I don’t remember by how much.
Yes, fat does spread! Not taking those critical measurements when sitting down can be the difference between a stand up only dress and a sit down and be comfortable dress!
I have my measurements saved in my email, on my note pad and in a notebook. I make sure my dressform has the same measurements. Every time a measurement changes I record it as soon as possible, it the only way to go.
I made the mistake of not taking new measurements and had a dress and a top come out too small. I make sure to keep them up to date. I write them in a journal I keep in my sewing room, plus on the Evernote app.
me encanta este tutorial. muchas veces no contamos con alguien que nos ayude a tomarnos las medidas. un abrazo desde el mar caribe
Gracias ! Sé que es difícil encontrar a alguien para ayudarle a tomar mediciones.
Migdalia por fin alguien que habla español!!! Un beso y un abrazo desde USA!Feliz Año!!!
P.S. It seems like ya’ll updated the commenting process, it works much better for me now! Previously, I couldn’t leave a comment when reading in bloglovin and had to click over to the site directly. Thanks!
Yes! We’ve been having problems with the WordPress comments and could not fix it. I put Disqus on my own blog (same platform/etc) and it’s been working great, so we decided to put here on the CSC. It did not work well when we had it before, but it seems like the glitches have been fixed.
Tanya, I can’t believe it but I have literally never thought to take bust apex measurements. I think understanding that relationship will help me a LOT with fitting, especially the side neck to bust apex measurement since I seem to have the most fitting issues above the bust. I hardly ever use patterns that have the bust apex marked, but i suppose I can infer if there are darts. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to use that measurement effectively to make pattern alterations?
I normally don’t have much of a problem with just the simple bust measurements, but I’d think it would probably make a big difference with a fuller bust and fitting in wovens. I’ve never done an FBA, so not sure if that measurement is one that’s used. But it looks like it would be needed for bust dart placement.
It’s useful in knowing if you need to move a dart and is helpful in creating or otherwise manipulating darts. I cheat, I hold the pattern piece to my body while wearing a typical bra and mark where the apex is. Then, I compare it to the marking on my pattern.