Hello readers! Today’s entry in the Sewing for My Curves series is from Mary Alice, a stylish, tall drink of water. You can find more curvy sewing and curvy fashion from Mary Alice on her blog, Well Sewn Style, as well as on social media (Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest).
What are your measurements/body shape?
Bust: 46″, waist: 36″, hips: 50″, bra size: 38D, height: 6’0′ (all legs!), inseam: 34″
Typical pattern size: 16/18/20/22.
Typical size in RTW: 16 top, 18 bottom, and I generally have to take most RTW items in at the waist.
Body shape: Definitely human 🙂 Hourglass, well defined curves, very thick hips and thighs, “proportional” as many a stranger would tell me.
What adjustments do you typically make when sewing?
I generally need to grade between three sizes. My hips get the largest size, then my bust, then my waist falls into the smaller size. Grading between two sizes from the waist to the hip can lead to pointy bits around the hip curve so I have to make sure to really grade the hip to waist smoothly. This ends of being a lot of trial and error because the fullest part of my hip doesn’t always match up with the fullest part of the pattern hip.
I add a considerable amount of length to all skirts and pants. For example, in the Colette Moneta and the Cashmerette Appleton I add 5″ to the skirt to ensure the skirt hits just past the knees. In pants patterns I generally add 4-5″ as well (I like to wear heels and ensure the pant hits at the right angle). Shirt sleeves require an additional 1″ in length. Shoulder seams get bumped out about 1cm. I am a D cup and haven’t yet had to do a full bust adjustment on any pattern.
Self-drafted Top
What are your favorite/go-to styles and sewing patterns?
The number one reason I started sewing my own clothes is because I absolutely love fashion and I was so frustrated with the lack of quality clothes in my size. Being both tall and plus size is a challenge. Online stores may carry either tall sizes or plus sizes, but definitely not tall plus sizes, which baffles the mind! One can be tall and thick! So a lot of the things I sew are the things I just can’t find in stores that fit like jumpsuits, dress, skirts, and bodysuits. I love playing with clothes and fashion, so I figure if I am going to spend time creating clothes I might as well make clothes that bring me joy!
There are relatively few styles that I won’t wear. I tend to gravitate towards silhouettes with a well-defined waist, although I also like a slouchy top now and then. I really like to highlight my curves instead of hiding them. My style could be described as power-feminine. I love flirty, girly details but also like to add a bit of structure with a bomber jacket or blazer. As far as colors go, I consider cheetah print a neutral. I don’t wear brown or taupes and instead stick to black. I love rich, fully-saturated colors, particularly jewel tones which compliment my fair skin. I also love to juxtapose more delicate fabrics like lace or silk with leather and suede. I love big, bright statement jewelry like bold necklaces and earrings. I also love bright shoes to go with a black and white outfit. Now that I’m trying to sew as much as possible I feel like the entire style universe has been opened to me!
I almost exclusively sew indie patterns and right now one of my go-tos is the Cashmerette Appleton–I’ve made this in a knee-length sleeveless version, ¾ sleeve maxi version, ¾ sleeve knee-length version. I love the way this pattern highlights my curves. I also love all the different ways I can make it. It really is one of my favorite patterns of all time.
I also love the Colette Moneta, which I’ve made in both black and red.
Colette Moneta
I recently started sewing Closet Case Pattern’s designs and I love the instructions and the modern styling. I made the Nettie Bodysuit in bright red with bell sleeves. I plan to make many more of these in all the different variations.
I also just recently made Closet Case Patterns Sallie Jumpsuit which came together really nicely. I tend to sew a lot of dresses and plan to graduate to separates this spring and summer.
Future sewing plans:
I swear, the more I sew, the more ideas I come up with. But in the immediate future I want to focus my energy on making pants and jeans! I have dreams about a pair of high-waisted dark denim jeans that are extra long and can be worn with platform sandals (you know you’re a style-junkie when you literally dream about this stuff!). I have the pattern (Closet Case Patterns Ginger Jeans), and the denim, and all the notions but I’ve got some serious anxiety about this project. I know I just need to jump in, maybe y’all can pressure me bit?
Also on the list is about a half dozen pair of super wide leg palazzo pants which is my go to style for summer. When you’ve got really thick thighs (raises hand) it’s hard to find palazzo pants that actually flow (RTW wide-leg pants get stuck on my thigh meat) which totally throws off the whole look. I can’t wait to make a pair that just flutter in the wind!
I’m also planning to hack my Nettie bodysuit into an off the shoulder look; just have to find a supportive strapless bra for a 38D. And the list goes on. Am I the only one that dreams about this stuff???
Love, love, love your style! I had to smile when I read your comments about tall or plus sizes but not both. It constantly amazes me that stores will carry a size 4 or 6 tall (US sizes) but not a 20 or 22. It is far more likely that someone will be a 20 tall than an size 4 tall. Honestly, I don’t think these people get out much.
I began sewing when I was about 12 not only because I enjoyed the process but as a tall (then) skinny girl, I could not find blouses with sleeves long enough. And I could never find cute, trendy clothes (except for jeans) in tall sizes.
As I’ve gotten older I’ve gotten far curvier and thicker, I’m so excited that patterns are being created for us curvy ladies. I look forward to seeing your new creations. Thank you for the inspiration.
I’m neither tall nor plus sized, and I still LOVE your style, and think you are absolutely beautiful in everyone of these looks!
Thank you Linda!
Seeing your stuff is so inspiring. I’m not shaped exactly like you (duh I guess), but similarly: 18 on top, 20 on bottom, and 6’2″. It’s SO GREAT to see another tall plus sewist knocking it out of the park! One question: do you have any great tips on how to add length (particularly how to add large amounts of length without the pattern winding up wonky, and how to decide where that extra length goes if you can’t just plonk it all in one spot where the pattern suggests)? THANK YOU!
Hi Erica! Great question. Generally I’ll only add 3-4 inches additional length at the lengthen/ shorten line then disperse the rest of the length throughout the garment. Although sometimes it’s a lot of trial and error. When I made the Sallie Jumpsuit by Closet Case Patterns the shorten/ lengthen line was actually near the crotch so I ended up with just a bit too much crotch space. Next time I make that pattern, I will probably only add 2 inches there and the remainder dispersed throughout the leg.
Hope that’s helpful!
I love the confident way you wear your clothes. This is coming to me slowly and it’s surprising how the number of compliments increase as my confidence increases. Thank you for sharing.
Yes! Confidence is a total mindset. Act confident and feeling confident will follow!
You look fab. Love your style. I’ve never completed an item of clothing for myself and this post has encouraged me to have another go. Thanks and keep up the good work.
You got this, Ava! I hope you give it a go!
That maxi Appleton photo looks like it should be on a magazine cover. I’m nowhere near as glamorous as you are, but I know what you mean about fantasizing about sewing. I had a real headache situation with my 17-year-old boy yesterday. I dealt with it, and what did I do to relax afterward? Drink? No. Drugs? No. Eat too much? No. I cut out a Turner using Art Gallery fabrics. I had made the pattern before, so I had no fitting to contend with — just an easy sew. It’s insane how good I felt afterward. The day after my son was contrite, and we even had a few laughs — all the while I was hemming my new garment — by hand — because that’s another real stress buster for me.
Ahh I love turning to a tried and true pattern to relieve stress. My TNT Is the Appleton!
‘“proportional” as many a stranger would tell me.’ Ha! I’m glad those pesky strangers are complimenting others the same. My personal favorite, said with much admiration, was ‘You’re a Clydesdale’. Why yes, yes I am. On a serious note, I just want to say how much I appreciate you taking such well styled and glamorous photos. It always inspires me to wear my me-mades better. Sometimes I’m so conscience of the sewing imperfections that I forget the joy and confidence of clothes that fit.
OH MY GOODNESSI I’ve been referenced as a Clydesdale before too!! I’ve also been told that “we should breed for the linebackers”. Good lord, some people!
I do love to get all gussied up for my photos!
“Traditionally built” one of the women at work calls it. Followed by “like a battleship” if she’s not feeling complimentary!
I have to say this is the first time I’ve read a sewing post and thought “someone like me!”. I’m 5’10 and have spent years trying to figure out why I’m allowed to be tall, and allowed to be fat, but not both. Curve lines tend to consider 32 inside leg to be some special unicorn, with the long being 30. Long Tall Sally are ok, but expensive if that’s the only place you can buy trousers. I need 35 or 36″ if I’m wearing anything other than flip flops ?
Thanks for the post!
Love your sewing.
I swear by my Wonderbra Ultimate Strapless Bra. Comfy and supportive for my 36DD, plus it stays up all day with no hoiking!
Good tip, Catherine! I’ve got to try a bunch and just buy one already. Haven’t worn a strapless in years!
Great energy! Definitely comes across in your post. You will definitely get a lot of inspiration and encouragement here. I think most of us have done more dreaming than sewing. It was just so much effort to make all the adjustments to make the patterns actually fit well. Thank goodness for the indie patterns, esp Jenny! Waist? What waist? I am 5’8″ and most RTW dresses are short, as I prefer to wear them just below the knee. I have become the lazy pants person! What pattern do you plan to use for the super wide leg palazzo pants?
Hey Mary! I plan to use the Love Notions Summer Caye pant for a knit version of the palazzo. I also love the leg of the Sallie Jumpsuit (pictured) so may hack them into a pant. For a woven, I plan to use the Holly Jumpsuit pants from By Hand London (after grading them up and doing a big booty and thick thigh adjustment).
Your outfits are beautiful and you look outstanding in them! Well done!
Thank you Laurie!!
This is absolutely inspiring. You have a great style and it shows through with these pictures. Thank you and hope to see more of your fantastic wardrobe.
Thanks Jo!!
Oh is that the FABULOUS Mary Alice!!! All the heart eyes for your awesomeness luvvie!!!
Heyyyy Abbey!!! Thanks for reading!
WOW – this is awesome… I love your style and your fearlessness – me… well I’m constantly hiding my curves but you’ve given me the spark to maybe let them come out…
You got this, Andra! Let them out!! Thanks for reading!
Love your style 🙂 Hope you don’t mind if I copy some of your looks.
Of course! Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Copy away, and I am sure you’ll be able to find a way to put your unique spin on it!
I laughed reading the end of your post re ginger jeans! I have had Heather Lou’s jeans pattern and ebook PRINTED out on my shelf for more than a year AND I’ve even signed up for her online course….yet my commitment to DO it, stubbornly remains illusive 🙂 I also have some gorgeous Liberty stretch blue on blue denim just waiting…Yet the fantasy of having a great fitting pair of jeans after years of suffering poor fitting ones (I’m 62) continues to haunt me. I love Closet Case patterns too – I have both her Kalle and Ebony patterns – not made yet but the Kalle will definitely be soon. Of course my other just as favourite pattern company is Cashmerette 🙂 Your clothes are gorgeous and your matter of fact personality style is a beacon of light 🙂
Thank you Kathleen!! Let’s make a pact to get those jeans done, shall we?? Thanks for reading!
I love your style! So feminine and flattering. And your clothes look so well made.
Why thank you! They’re definitely better made then some of the RTW plus-size clothes I’ve come across. 🙂
Cheetah/leopard is definitely a neutral. You look beautiful!
Right?! Haha thanks for reading and the lovely compliment! 🙂
WOW…..you have made many beautiful pieces
Thank you Ann!
Love it all!!!!
Thanks Martha!