I am reviewing the Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress. This dress is currently only available up to a size 24, which is 48.5″ bust, but the pattern designer seems to be working on upgrading the sizing on her patterns up to a size 34 (hopefully that will be about at 58″ bust) and she recently sent out a newsletter stating that this pattern will soon be in testing for that new size range. So keep your eyes out for that if you are interested in this pattern!
Measurements: High Bust: 44″, Bust: 47″, Waist 44″, Hip 56″
Body Shape: Representing team pear!
Pattern Size Used: I had some concern about the fit of this pattern in the larger sizes, based on the product photos and other versions I had seen around the internet, so I decided to take careful flat pattern measurements before I cut my fabric. But do as I say, not as I do, I would suggest muslining this parttern. I measured the shoulder to shoulder width on the pattern and decided that the 22 (which matches my bust measurement) would actually be fine. I cut a 22 at the shoulder then graded out to a 24 at the bust and through the waist. My waist and hips are out of the size range for this pattern, but there is a lot of ease in the waist (6.5 inches) and with the gathered skirt, it didn’t really matter, so I just focused on shoulder and bust fit.
Alterations: Other than fit alterations, I sewed this pattern as drafted with the partial placket option. I did add some patch pockets because I wanted to play with the stripe direction in my fabric. This is the shorter version of the skirt, though I found it a bit short so ended up facing the hem to keep as much length as possible. The skirt is just a rectangle, so it is easy to customize it to the length you want.
Fabric Used: A yarn dyed striped cotton from Imagine Gnats.
Fit: I did struggle a bit with fit on this project (which again, I should have made a muslin). While I think it looks OK and is totally wearable, there are some things that are bugging me about the fit. I’m finding the fit through the bust to be a bit strange in these photos, though it doesn’t bother me too much when wearing it. There is a lot of pulling, maybe I should have done an FBA. It was hard to know since the upper bust measurements are not provided. The instructions say it is drafted for a C cup, which should be fine for me, but there just seems to be a lot of pulling and tightness, despite the fact that I cut a 24 though the bust, which is a size bigger than my measurements. It just seems to be strangely tight, even though the shoulders are still a bit wide. It’s also long though the back, which is standard for me, and I should have shortened it a bit but with the loose style I think its probably OK as is. I also had issues with the sleeves.
I don’t normally have an issue with sleeve width, so I didn’t pay very close attention and they are TIGHT. Like I can still wear it, but just barely. Since I wanted to cut the 22 though the armscye, I did that and then graded out to the 24 for the rest of the sleeve, to give myself a little extra width. That was not enough, so I then had to sew it with the tiniest seam allowance I could.
Changes for Future Versions: Honestly, since I sewed this dress, I have drafted myself a bodice block, and it looks quite different from this pattern. I don’t think it will be worth the effort to try and work out the subtle fit issues on this pattern and will probably just draft something similar from my block if I want another version of this in my closet. That said, I have high hopes for the upcoming new and improved version of this pattern, so I might revisit it once it is re-released! As always, you can find a bit more info and more photos on my blog.
Thank you for your detailed review Megan. I have made this dress several times for my breastfeeding niece and am about to make it for a breast feeding friend. They are both very small across the back and shoulders but currently big in the boobs waist. It looks lovely on my niece and she wears the dresses almost daily. Her measurements are way outside the ‘recommended’ range. I am the same bust measurement and height as my neice, but quite different proportions (broader back and shoulders- smaller boobs and waist) and it looks really horrible on me and is not comfortable to wear. I have very skinny arms proportionately, but the sleeves/armsythes don’t fit me properly either, so I don’t think its a size issue, so much as a shape/drafting issue. I totally agree that their is something weird about the fit and I can’t work out what it is! I tried several alternations on muslins and gave up. It just seems to be a shame that suits certain shapes (small frame, but big curves) and not others (larger frame, fewer curves). I have never been so puzzled by a pattern…..
Hi,
Cute dress. Thank you for the review. I believe the reason the fit is off is because the shoulders are too wide for your figure. The shoulder seam is actually below the shoulder bone. Narrowing the shoulder would probably fix the bust issues.
Best
Kathy
Thanks Kathy- I completely agree that the shoulders are too wide. I did adjust for it, but clearly not enough. And I don’t think that’s the only fit issue that I have!
It looks to me like the bust dart is too high up on the seam. This is a problem I run into often. The measurement from my shoulder to the bust is often too short as I have a long torso.
That being said, the fabric is really cute and your styling of it with the leggings is really cute on you!
Thanks, LeAnn! I agree that the bust dart is a little strange. It is an angled dart, like an French dart, but it starts on the side seam. While it does point to my apex, because I am short waisted, I think it would be way too high for most folks. Thanks!
This dress looks lovely on you – it really suits you. But looking at the pattern website, I can see that it doesn’t fit the plus size model at all. I am surprised the pattern designer was satisfied with such a poor fit. It doesn’t make me want to buy this pattern, but I”ll look around for something similar from another designer.
Thanks Elizabeth. It is a pretty basic design so I’m sure you can find something similar!
I do think you would have been better off with a FBA, instead of grading out. A FBA puts the extra room at the bust apex, not on the side seam. Anytime you choose a size by upper bust (good idea) but your bust is bigger than the pattern measurement, you should do a FBA. That would also have given you some extra length in the front so the waist seam would be level.
Sleeve size seems to be so weird among indie designers…. some are always skinny and some are always loose.
I think it’s a cute dress pattern, especially for a pear shape.
Hi Diane- My bust was not bigger than the pattern measurement, which is why I did not do an FBA. The pattern was said to be drafted for a C cup, which is a 3 inch difference between the upper and full bust. I measure that exactly. I did not size up at the bust to accommodate my bust measurement, but rather it was a factor of having to grade up at the waist and the bust dart starting rather low. In fact, my bust measures 47 and the finished garment measurements for the size I cut are 51.25″, so I should have had plenty of ease. However, I do agree that I need an FBA here. I just should NOT have per the pattern directions.
Thanks for the honest review. It helps me immensely to see your fit issues so that I can decide if I want to put the time into this pattern. Frankly, I’m getting to the point where I’ll pass on patterns that won’t work for me without more than 2 or 3 adjustments.
I’m glad it was helpful, Sara! I agree with you, it’s not always worth the hassle to alter a pattern!