I have a cardigan problem. That cardigan problem is that the long, often flowing cardigans that have been all the rage in recent years don’t often look great on my 5’2″ frame, from a proportion standpoint. Even when I’ve bought more retro-style cardigans in RTW (e.g. the Charter School cardigan from ModCloth), they still tend to hit me at the low hip, which isn’t always the look that I’m going for, as I wear a lot of fit-and-flare and A-line dresses and longer cardigans tend to obscure those skirt/dress shapes.
3 versions of the SBCC Cabernet Cardigan
When the group of Curvy Sewing Collective editors decided to plan for a Curvy Year of Sewing, with one of the challenge themes being “kimonos and cardigans”, I decided to finally sew up one of the two hip-length cardigan patterns that I’ve had in my pattern stash for years–either the SBCC Cabernet Cardigan or the Muse Jenna cardigan. I ended up going with the SBCC Cabernet because I figured that I’d need fewer fitting adjustments with the Cabernet, given that it’s drafted for petite women, while Muse’s pattern block is based on a much taller woman.
This is one of those cases where I wanted to smack my forehead and groan, “Why didn’t I sew this pattern up years ago?” The Cabernet is an easy sew that goes together quickly, fixes the issues that I have as a short woman with most RTW cardigans, and even has pockets. I think I’ve found my go-to cardigan pattern.
Pattern Name
SBCC Cabernet Cardigan
Pattern description from the SBCC website:
The Cabernet Cardigan features three different body length options, perfectly proportioned for petites:
- View A- long and relaxed fit with 3/4 or long sleeves
- View B- short and relaxed fit with 3/4 or long sleeves
- View C- short and fitted body with 3/4 or long fitted sleeves
This pattern is intended for knit fabrics and is a great project for an intermediate sewer, but instructions are user-friendly for beginners as well.”
Size range (with measurements)
SBCC patterns are drafted for a woman of 5’4″ (162.5 cm) and under, with 5’1″ (155 cm) used as the base height for drafting all sizes. The Cabernet Cardigan comes in SBCC sizes XXS (30″ / 76.2 cm bust, 32″ / 81.3 cm hip) through 3X (54 1/2″ / 138.4 cm bust, 57 1/2″ / 146 cm hip). The plus range is based on a separately drafted block.
SBCC Cabernet Cardigan – 3 versions, worn closed
What view and size did you make?
I sewed View B — the “short and relaxed fit” view on all versions. The mustard version and black/gray/cream versions have have full-length sleeves while the slate blue version has 3/4-length sleeves.
Knowing that the plus block of SBCC patterns is drafted for roughly a DD-cup bust, I started with a size 1X at the neck/shoulders and did a “cheater” FBA by grading to a 2X below the armscye.
What are your measurements, height, and body type? (If reviewing a top or dress, bra size is very helpful for our readers.)
My current measurements are as follows:
- High bust: 42″ (106.7 cm)
- Full bust: 49″ (124.5 cm)
- Waist: 42.5″ (108 cm)
- Hip: 46″ (118 cm)
- Height: 5’2″ (157.5 cm)
- Bra Size: 40H
My body type is somewhere between a busty hourglass and busty rectangle from the front, but more of a busty apple from the side.
SBCC Cardigan – back view of mustard french terry and slate blue merino wool versions
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
The only adjustment I made was to grade from a 1X to a 2X below the armscye of the cardigan. Because I’m not a fan of darts in casual knit garments, I opted to ease the bust dart into the side seam, rather than sew it, as I wanted to be able to wear this cardigan without worrying about what bra I was wearing on a given day.
What fabric did you use?
- Mustard version: Cotton-lycra French terry knit from the Purple Seamstress
- Slate blue sweater knit version: Merino wool from Jumping June Textiles (now sold out). I used the wrong side for contrast bands.
- Black/cream/gray graphic sweater knit version: Wool blend sweater knit purchased a couple of years ago from the now-closed brick-and-mortar location of District Fabrics. Contrast bands are made from a French terry that I purchased at Mill End in Portland, OR.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The construction process went smoothly. All notches, seams, etc, lined up, and I didn’t run into any weird drafting errors. The instructions/illustrations themselves are a bit on the minimalist side. The illustrations that are there are clear; however, a beginner might prefer a bit more hand-holding.
One thing to note is that this pattern was released nearly four years ago, and I found it a little jarring how “early PDF pattern” the PDF printout felt. This isn’t a knock on SBCC or the pattern itself, but I found that I really missed some of the bells and whistles that many of us have gotten used to with more recent PDF patterns, such as the option to print layers and a more optimized layout to minimize paper usage/waste. For example, one of the sleeve cuffs was spread out over 6 different pieces of paper. When I’d accidentally tossed this pattern piece, I had to go hunting back through the entire PDF to figure out which 6 pages to print individually just for a simple rectangular sleeve cuff.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
I love the fit. I love that I’ve found a cardigan where I don’t feel like I’m swimming in fabric and that I can wear with fuller-skirted dresses without obscuring the waist shaping.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
Oh heck yeah, I’ve already made three versions of this pattern, and I suspect that I’ll make it again. I think I’m done trying to buy RTW cropped cardigans at this point when the Cabernet is so fast and easy to sew up. I’ll play around with contrast fabrics and the pockets, but for the most part, I don’t see myself making many changes to this pattern going forward.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
This is a pretty simple pattern to sew up. The biggest issue that I ran into was a bit of waviness on my topstitching, but I blasted the wonky bits with steam from my iron, and that helped a lot. If you’ve sewn a sweatshirt with banded hems and can sew a buttonhole, you’ll be fine with this pattern. Heck, if you hate sewing buttonholes, you could leave the buttonholes/buttons off of this cardigan and wear it open.
Overall pattern rating
Size Range (1-5): 4.5 — The pattern size range is definitely more inclusive than most indie pattern companies. There are a few that have a bit wider range, but overall, SBCC’s is quite good.
Instructions (1-5): 3.5 — These are definitely more minimalist instructions; however, what is there is clear and accurate. This probably isn’t a great pattern choice for a true beginner, but someone who has made a few knit garments and knows how to apply bands should be fine.
Construction Process (1-5): 5 —The construction process for this cardigan went very smoothly.
Final Fit (1-5): 5 — I am very happy with the final fit of my cardigan. This pattern runs true-to-size.
Overall Rating (1-5) + Explanation: 4.5 — Average score of other scores. I’m really happy with this pattern and am a bit annoyed with myself for taking so long to get around to making it. If you’re petite and plus sized and looking for a topper that doesn’t run super long on you or have a lot of extra fabric/draping at the opening, definitely check out the SBCC Cabernet Cardigan.
All three cardigans look fabulous on you! Great job!
Love them all! I think the Slate in the middle slightly edges out as my fav, because I just love the fabric combo you used. I’m still a fan of waterfall cardis, since they do tend to work for me, but I can definitely understand your fatigue. 🙂
Do they make one for a 5’8” plus size???? ;). Looks amazing on you! I’m envious of the good fit with the minimal alterations. I love cardigans more than long sweaters. I feel like the waterfall style collar is just too much fabric for my large size. Yet RTW wants to put me in a bulky knit that covers up my entire outfit.
Love this on you!
Waterfall styles make me feel like I’m swimming in fabric. I tried a few when they first came on the scene nearly 10 years ago, and it’s one of those trends that I’ve been waiting to see die for what feels like forever. I’m really happy to have found this pattern as an alternative!
I don’t know about this specific pattern, but I know other taller women have lengthened other SBCC patterns without a ton of issues. Or you could check out the Muse Jenna or Muse Sophie cardigans, which have similar streamlined styles but are drafted for a 5’10” height.
Oooh I do love a good cardigan! They all look super cute on you. I can’t pull off a long cardi no matter how hard I try!
Excellent review as per usual Michelle!
Wow! Every version of that cardigan looks great on you. I will have to add this one to my wish list. Also, could you give a few more details about easing in the dart? I have done this with a knit shirt but struggled with how wide an area to ease over.
Ottobre does this in some of their knit patterns (easing the dart). Following what they usually do, I typically ease the dart over a distance that’s roughly the amount of vertical space that my breasts take up, if that makes sense.
You have sold me! I will be making one of these here shortly. You and your cardigans look FAB! Thank you for the great write up.
Oh my heck CUTE! They all look great on you and look professionally made. Well done!
Michelle,
I love them all! All 3 cardigans look great on you. Hope you found your TNT with this one. Current marketing leads us to believe all cardigans must be long. This is so far from the truth. A good cardi in the proper length is very flattering. A bad fitting cardi will never look fashionable no matter what length it is. RTW can’t possibly make a perfect cardi since our hips all fall in different places, we have different arm lengths as well as other body issues.
This is wonderful.
I find that long styles hit me at the low hip as well and so I’ve never made a cardigan that works.
Great Job!
Cara