Morning, CSC! Today I am reviewing Burda Jersey Blazer #134 from August 2016 issue, a lined jersey blazer with a shawl collar and patch pockets. I’m not sure if you know, but I am a fan of Burda. I can always rely on their drafting for getting a good fit with some adjustments. Mostly, I love the classic styles they have. I don’t love their lack of instructions, however, and they certainly are famous for sparse instructions in their magazines. Burda plus sizes range from size 44 (39.25 inch/100 cm bust) to size 52 (48 inch/122 cm bust). Admittedly, not the greatest size range, but it works for me with minor adjustments.
My measurements are: 51 bust, 46 waist, and 54/56 hip (depending on my swelling that day due to my chronic illness). I made a size 52 with a 2 inch FBA (adding 4 inches overall) and a 2 inch full bicep adjustment. I added 4 extra inches to the bust to allow for a button closure. The original pattern is meant to sit open, but I often want to pull blazers closed and quite frankly I think the look works well with the Cashmerette Rivermont, which was my planned pairing for this blazer.
Let’s talk fit issues. The blazer is long on me. I am a shorter person at 5’3″ and I have short arms. I prefer longer sleeves that cover my hands since they get cold easily. The back could use a sway back adjustment as well as a bit more room in the hips. I think the bust looks good. I do wish I had but in 2 buttons and may be adding that later, but we’ll see if I ever get around to that. For future versions, I will shorten the length overall, as well as do a swayback and full hip adjustment.
I love the blazer in spite of that and for most non-sewists those issues are minor.
My favourite details of this blazer are the purple piping along the lapel and the small purple buttons on the sleeve vents. Speaking of the sleeve vents, the instructions weren’t very good to help me do my first sleeve vent. I actually used this tutorial from Patterns Scissors Cloth. It was fantastic in holding my hand throughout the process.
I used a medium weight poly blend jersey in a dark grey. The piping is Wrights pre-made piping from Funky Monkey Fabrics. Buttons are sourced locally. I didn’t line the blazer. I don’t think it needs the lining at all. I used my serger for the most of the construction so the insides are nice anyway.
Construction, except for the sleeve vents, went together really easily. With the tutorial, the sleeve vents were a breeze. The instructions were no help there. My one issue with the pattern is that the back facing seemed unnecessary. The lapel is cut on and then facing is sew on. The front facing pieces attach at the back and then get sewn into the seams below the pockets. The back facing is supposed to be attached to a cut out part on the front facing and then sewn into the seams on the shoulders and back neckline. It is likely my error with adding in the seam allowances, but the pieces wasn’t necessary to me. I was able to sew the front facings to the back neckline and the shoulders without it. Likely my error, but also possible not. I will see the result with a more stable knit since I plan to use a tan knit next time with blue piping.
Size Range: 4
Instructions: 2
Construction Process: 4.5
Final Fit: 4.75
Overall Rating: 3.8 4
I have to bump the overall rating up a bit, because I really love this blazer and the rating certainly suffers from the poor instructions. I only really bumped on 0.5 for the back facing piece because it could have been my error adding in the seam allowances and dropping the lining. I admittedly eye them when cutting out patterns which is not an accurate method. But it’s a lazy method and I would prefer to sew instead. I recommend the pattern for intermediate sewists based on the fact that the instructions are sparse.
I also like Burda patterns but struggle with the instructions. Great job on the jacket review! I am also unable to wear anything on my top half RTW unless its pretty stretchy or oversized. I plan on making a jacket when my fitting issues are more figured out . I’m challenged at the moment by much simpler projects. Thank you for posting and putting it out there! I’m learning a lot from all the bloggers. 🙂
Thanks so much, Linda! I’m glad you liked the post!
Okay, question: how exactly does a person style a blazer or jacket? I’ve made myself a couple & later donated them to the thrift shop because I just couldn’t figure out how to wear them. I’ve tried open jackets & jackets that button. I’ve tried tailored jackets & experimental jackets. Lately I have been toying with the idea of making a classic jean jacket, because I’ve never been able to find one in RTW that fits my proportions correctly. Part of me is like, “If I’m sewing for myself, I can get the perfect fit!” but another part of me wonders if my particular shape (narrow shoulders, large bust, thick waist, no ass) is just a jacket no-go zone (in my own eyes only, of course). I feel the same way about the open waterfall cardigans that are all the craze recently.
I’m not sure. I think trying on a bunch in rtw would help you find the style you want. I am pretty similar to you in shape, except I have a lot in the ass. I think for me a shoulder pad works well to give me shoulders. I know they are very 80s power suit but it helps. I also think princess seams do a lot. The waterfall cardigan I have that works for me has princess seams, too. Sorry I don’t think I helped much!
Great job, very good looking jacket! I love my knit one, very comfy. Just a few random thoughts though.. Burda patterns are drafted for 5’7″ so you might want to adjust https://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/burda-pattern-alteration-for-petites Also, the main function of a lining in a jacket is to reduce wear by making it easier to put on and off (and reduce wardrobe malfunction from friction due to unlucky fabric pairings). Likewise, the back facing has the important job of prolonging life by preventing bagging in the shoulders. So don’t think of those things as merely hiding ugly seams 😀
Thanks so much! 🙂
Nice touch with the piping Andie! You did a great job on the sleeve vent. You are right, the blazer looks a bit long for you. I don’t think it’s the garment itself, tho. The lapel looks longer on you than it does on the model. (big maybe here–) Maybe if you shorten the lapel, the length of the jacket would be ok. About those sleeves . . . what if you do a turn up cuff with some added decoration. Cut the fabric longer, cut the lining shorter. Put piping between the fabric and the lining around the wrist (inside of sleeve), so you see fabric with the piping when you turn up the cuff. If you really want to get fancy, you can sew the vent and buttons on the inside, so when you turn up the cuff, the vent shows on the outside.
Thanks so much, Mary. I like the sleeve idea!
Oh and I agree about the lapel. My plan is to shorten a bit there and a bit at the hips. 🙂
Regarding the back facing piece, probably there to provide an anchor for attaching the lining which you chose hot to use.
Yeah I think that was also the issue.
I think the back facing is there for added support on a stress point. Just putting on and removing the blazer puts stress on the fabric. I have always found it awkward on how they attach the facing to the lining. You could probably look at some RTW blazers to see what they’re doing with the facing and how they are shaping it. Some are smaller facings than others. I doubt the smaller facings would provide much support for a blazer that is going to get a lot of wear. If it’s just one of those small 2 inch type facings, just cut a full lining and take it to the collar line.
Yes, it’s just a small facing piece. I think it would have been better to have incorporated it into the front facing (which is really the lapel piece that faces outwards) since it is a cutout from that. It’s not really necessary for a jersey blazer. I think the back neckline and shoulders would be better reinforced with twill tape or a clear elastic (I’m allergic to that so I use twill tape instead).
Outstanding! You look so professional! You did a beautiful job!
Burda………few instructions (why?? I’d pay extra for them LOL!) ………….a blazer………..you are so brave!!
Thanks so much, Eliz! 😁
Why the sparse instructions? Because the US is not their primary market, the EU and Russia/Eastern Europe are, and the general level of sewing skills is much higher there.
I had a thought about the sleeves… What if you cut the hem length long enough to fold inside further up? A deeper, doubled hem? Then you could fold the cuffs up to the outside in order to clear your hands when you need them, but still fold them down when you’re chilly? I work with my hands and am always pushing or folding long sleeves up. But I do like the ability to cover my hands as well…
I like your purple piping accents!
Thanks for the idea, Kathleen! 🙂
Oooh, thanks for introducing this pattern to me! I’ve been on the lookout for a jersey blazer, and I now remember some applicable fabric in my stash! The buttons and piping are awesome.
Thanks so much, Kathy. I really love the pattern!
Beautiful–love the piping. I concur on the adjustments (I have to make those, too) but it looks good already.
Thanks, Sara! 🙂