One Pattern to Rule Them All

I asked Seanna Curler to write about historical costuming, since I know there’s a lot of interest in that topic. You can find her on Instagram @curvy_costumer. Take it away, Seanna.

I have always been a step out of time. As a kid, I never felt that I belonged in the 20th century, and I was positive that I was more suited for a long ago time filled with fainting couches and billowing gowns.

I may not have a TARDIS, but I was given a hand-me-down sewing machine, and the very first garment I made was a velvet and silk gown with puff sleeves and flowing skirts. If I couldn’t actually BE an old timey fantasy princess, at least I could DRESS like one. 

Historical costuming is definitely a niche market. Patterns can be expensive and hard to obtain and they also aren’t known for being terribly size inclusive. When I first started sewing my own historical dresses, I was pretty strapped for both cash and time so I didn’t have the luxury of spending upwards of $20 just on the pattern. Jennifer Rosbrugh has thoughtfully collected a list of patterns and reference images for the curvy and historically minded amongst us here, so I won’t be duplicating her work. Rather, I’d like to focus on Simplicity 4092, easily the most used pattern in my collection.

I stumbled across this pattern and it’s become a tried and true. Though the pattern envelope says the bust only goes up to 42 inches, Simplicity is known for building in lots of ease AND a large seam allowance. I made a mock up out of thrifted bedsheets and reduced the seam allowance to ¼ and my 46 inch bust was able to fit just fine. 

I find this pattern to be very versatile and easily modifiable. It’s also much more beginner friendly than some of the indie patterns out there. You don’t need a depth of knowledge about historical sewing techniques in order to get a lovely gown.

This was my first time around with 4092. I shortened the sleeves and altered the bodice to be more of a “zone front” or “cutaway bodice.” I wore it to the Alexander Hamilton Ball hosted by a local costuming group. 

This pink concoction is more faithful to the pattern as I didn’t make a lot of alterations or modifications. I wore it to an Outlander in Paris Ball:

I wasn’t 100% satisfied with the width of the trim, so I re-trimmed the gown and wore it again to Costume College last year.

By now, it shouldn’t come as a shock that I also used Simplicity 4092 as the base for my Costume College Gala gown. I altered the front to have robings so I could pin my stomacher in, which is more historically accurate. I also used sleeves from a different pattern because poufiness was required for my vision.

So there you have it. Simplicity 4092: One Pattern to Rule Them All