Ah, vintage patterns….. so lovely, but rarely in plus sizes!
No, worries! I’m going to share a method to MAKE them your size!
Disclaimer: I am not an expert pattern drafter. Take caution when grading up a pattern.
- To demonstrate this method I’m using a one-size vintage pattern.
- I’m grading this pattern up several sizes. Many sources suggest grading up only one or two sizes.
- This is just one method of pattern grading. There are many different methods that can be used to resize a pattern.
Starting Out
For this tutorial, I am sharing a basic method on how to resize a dress bodice. Basically, I am drawing horizontal and vertical lines on a pattern piece and cutting and spreading them apart to achieve a larger size.
These are the tools I used to grade up this pattern:
- Swedish Tracing Paper
- Tissue Paper
- Rulers
- Pens
- Scissors
- Tape
I like to use Swedish tracing paper to trace vintage patterns. You can use whatever tracing paper is your preference. The tissue paper is used for altering the pattern pieces and keeping it together after cutting and spreading the pattern. You can use your paper preference for that as well. Sometimes I also use a seam gauge, but I prefer clear rulers when I resize patterns like this. Sharpies are also not the best if you don’t want ink marks on your table, but they work well for sharing this method with you. You may prefer to use pencils instead.
The Pattern I’m Using
This pattern is a simple design from the 1950’s. If you can, try to use a pattern that is closest to your size. I have a few vintage patterns that are my bust size, but they are difficult to find.
Step One
Before I get into any mathematical equations, I start out by tracing my pattern pieces so that I have them ready to go. For me, it’s important to trace my pattern pieces as I don’t want to cut into my vintage pattern and alter it.
Step Two
Next, I need to find my size on the pattern envelope and compare the pattern’s measurements to my own. I find the easiest way to do this is write down each set of measurements and then find the difference between each one by subtracting the vintage size from my size. I will then split up that difference, distributing it to resize my pattern. I would not just add 7 inches to the seam line, instead I will divide that number and spread it out.
For this pattern piece, I will be dividing the difference between the pattern measurements and my measurements by 4. This is how I reached this number: The 7 inches I need added to this pattern in order to get it to fit me needs to be shared for both the front and back of the bodice, which are 2 areas. As this piece is cut on the fold, I will need to break it down further to 2 more areas. Adding those 2 numbers together gives me the number 4, which are the 4 areas that I need to distribute the overall grade among my pattern pieces to achieve my size.
Equations:
- Your size – pattern size = overall grade
- Overall grade divided by front/back + number of seams (or 2 for fold) = allocated grade
Example:
- 48 (my size) – 41 (pattern size) = 7 (the difference/overall grade)
- 7 (overall grade) divided by 4 (front/back + fold) = 1.75 (amount I need to add to each piece – allocated grade)
Step Three
Now, I need to figure out where I’m going to cut and spread my pattern piece. The diagram above shows some basic areas to increase the size using my figures from step two. You can add more lines, but just remember to evenly distribute your measurement differences.
Here is an example of other areas you can place cut lines.
I then take my ruler and add my cut lines, following my diagram.
Step Five
For this pattern piece, I have 2 vertical lines, so I need to share 1.75″ (my figure from Step 3) between these 2 lines, essentially: 1.75″ divided by 2 = 0.87″.
For the horizontal line, the rule of thumb is 3/8″ per adult size. People generally don’t get taller as they grow wider, so this number is usually enough length to fit. You may want to adjust this to your body type.
Equations:
- Allocated grade divided by number of vertical lines = amount to add between each vertical line
- 3/8 x number of sizes you that you have graded this pattern up divided by number of horizontal lines = amount to add between each horizontal line
I then spread the pattern pieces out on tissue paper according to my figures and tape them down.
Note: I am grading this pattern up basically 3 1/2 sizes, so the equation should be 3/8 x 3 1/2, but I am opting not to follow that rule for my bodice. My preference is to add that minimum amount on the horizontal line that I’ve drawn and then later adjust the original lengthen/shorten line to my preference after I am finished resizing this pattern. I am short-waisted, so if I want the waistline of the dress to hit me at that point, this is how I would do it. I would figure out what works best for you. You have a traced pattern, so you can experiment with what suits you.
Step Six
After I’ve finished taping my pieces to the tissue paper, I draw new lines with my ruler and trim the edges. And there’s my new pattern piece!
For a difference in bust/waist measurements from the pattern measurements, I would figure the maths out differently for each area and grade between sizes, just as I would do for a multi-size pattern. I would either angle the pattern pieces to fit my measurements or draw lines and blend the measurements together.
For grading up the rest of this pattern, I will use the same basic concept on the skirt. Of course this method does not take into account any additional alterations like widening the sleeves or doing a full bust adjustment. This is just an example of enlarging a pattern from it’s initial size. You will need to amend any dart positions on your pattern after enlarging it and do any of your normal pattern alterations.
Your techniques have always helped me with my sewing and I thank you for that. I also use the pivot and slide techniques that I learned from Sewing with Nancy. I think this will better assist me when it come to the bodice. It seems it like a easier “work around”.
Tanya I think this is great, because it IS intuitive, and I reckon people can work out stuff like whether they need to make bits wider or narrower for their proportions. Anything that has sewists giving it a go is great!
Thanks for sharing the info, I have questions though… Why choose the horizontal line to go through the bust dart? Does that distort the dart? I would have no idea how to redraw. (I usually do a fba on all my makes), so assume that would b the next step??
You can pin fit the bust darts to yourself so they are exactly where your body needs them to be 🙂
The big reason to trace your pattern and THEN alter the tracing is (for me): do I want to just grade it up generally OR do I want to alter it to fit ME (cause I’m just as weirdly shaped as everyone else). I tend to do the grade for me, paying close attention to where the fit and style points are, and not forgetting the ease. I forget ease all the dang time, which is why tracing is important. I have the original pattern as a reference point, and I can refer to it for guidance. And retracing. I use a very soft, very wide pencil lead (in a mechanical pencil); marks swiftly like a sharpie, doesn’t leak through like one. Does smudge. Nothing’s perfect.
Thanks for the great tutorial, Tanya! This is the method that I use for grading up for both myself and my husband. I find that it’s by far the most intuitive method for me.
Great tutorial – very clear thanks !
Really? It’s that simple? Thanks, Sophie- Lee for such a quick response. I’ll have to have a go and see what happens! And I can still do an FBA, can’t I? There seems a difference of opinion about which measurement to choose pattern size on- bust, high bust, Nancy Zieman uses Right Size Measurement of front armhole crease to front armhole crease- it’ s confusing! I am short-term nearly five foot two, and have narrow shoulders, D- E bra cup, thick waist. It’s hard to know what is best method.
Different methods work better for different people. Going by my high bust measurement works well for me, but my shoulders are proportionate to the rest of my frame (it’s just my bust that’s out of proportion). It seems like women who have particularly narrow shoulders/small upper chests tend to prefer Nancy Zieman’s method.
As far as the FBA itself goes, that also depends on where you need to add fabric. The Palmer-Pletsch FBA adds both width and length over the bust. (The P-P method is the one that I always use.) Nancy’s method, if I understand correctly, just adds width.
Thanks for the reply, Michelle. Nothing is simple, is it!
Thanks Tanya, very clear. Interesting bit about the lines, never seen anyone do it as clearly as that. I have a question-say for example my measurements fell across two or three pattern sizes, must I do complicated things for fit (such as slash and spread, Pivot and Slide, etc etc etc) or would it work OK if I just graded between sizes. I understand need to maybe do FBA. Thanks, Linda
Linda if your measurements fits between two sizes that are already included in the pattern, just “grade” between the sizes, then sew a mock-up to check the fit.
I have had to grade up various patterns over the years, but never attempted with vintage patterns as they seem much more fitted/fiddly to work with. From looking at your pictures this is what I’m wondering — by slashing and spreading once down the center of the shoulder & another time down the center of the neckline — haven’t you now made the shoulders very wide (well, 1 /34″ wider than they were) — and the neckline is now 3 1/2″ wider (since it has “grown” on both sides of the foldline) — doesn’t this distort the fit of those areas?
Personally I have narrow shoulders — so I generally have to make an adjustment there in patterns — is there some way to make the pattern into a larger size WITHOUT “growing” the neckline & shoulders? (This is actually one of my bugaboos in RTW — they think just cuz I’ve got a larger bust & waist & all the fluff in between, etc. — that my neck has grown too? And getting shoulders to fit me in RTW — has NEVER happened!)
regarding narrow shoulders, i would choose the pattern size by high bust and FBA it to get to the right size, so it should fit better in the shoulders as that’s a tricky area to resize. re the neckline you could grade up the pattern as tanya says and then take the original pattern piece and retrace the neckline onto it. perhaps grade up and do a narrow shoulder adjustment – colette have a tutorial here https://www.sewalongs.com/hawthorn/hawthorn-wide-or-narrow-shoulder-adjustment
Right. In the method shown, both the neckline and the shoulders have been widened. Personally, I would angle the pieces to maintain the original neckline and shoulders, while allowing the extra width at bust/waist/hip. And if you’re grading up by a lot as in the example, you might need to do this in separate stages for each of bust, waist, hip.
Thank you for sharing.. You really made this simple..[Most of the pattern grading info I have read , I is so confusing.ha]. Love your dresses. and I really love vintage patterns.. I have quiet a few.. But, HATE grading them, as I really didn’t understand it.
Have you done a tutorial on FBA? Would love to see, how you do that..thanks, Judy
Thank you, Judy. I was hoping that it was easy to understand. I’ve read several slash/spread tutorials over the years and many were confusing. And yes, grading up vintage patterns is time consuming and not fun at all!
I have never done an FBA, but there are several FBA tutorials on our site.
Thank you Tanya.. I will check them out.