We all know that there’s huge variety in women’s bodies, whether you’re plus-sized or not. Even people with exactly the same measurements can be very different – for instance, if you have a 47″ bust measurement, it could be that you have a broad back and C cup chest, or a narrow ribcage and H cup chest! Therefore, it’s helpful to know which body type pattern companies draft for, so you can choose one that closely fits your own, or so that you know which adjustments you’ll need to make. Here’s a summary of some of the major pattern brands, but do let us know about more in the comments!
Guide by pattern
Vogue – Vogue patterns have a “figure flattery” index which indicates whether they think the pattern is suited to four body types: the “inverted triangle”, “triangle”, “rectangle” or “hourglass”. You can find the index on their website listings, or on the pattern packaging.
Hourglass
The remaining “Big4” (Butterick, McCall’s and Kwik Sew) don’t have these charts, though some have cup sizing up to a size D (and DDD on a select few patterns). The underlying block for these patterns is hourglass shape.
Most independent patterns appear to be drafted for an hourglass shape, including Colette (drafted on a C cup), Deer and Doe, StyleArc, By Hand London, Closet Case Files, Tilly and the Buttons, and BurdaStyle.
Pear shaped
Sewaholic – especially designed for pear-shaped figures, and they now go to a size 20.
I’ve also heard that Connie Crawford drafts for a pear.
Sophie-Lee in a Sewaholic Cambie
Petite
Petite Plus – these patterns are drafted for curvy women who are 5’4″ and shorter, and for a D cup bust.
Skinny Bitch Curvy Chick – these patterns are also for women under 5’4″, and they’re drafted for a B cup in the smaller sizes, and DD in the larger sizes
Average bust
Several brands have based their patterns on the national average D cup bust (unlike most which are made for a B cup), including Blue Ginger Doll, Burda plus size, Kwik Sew plus size.
Custom Fit
And finally, some companies will make sewing patterns to your measurements. The main ones right now are Lekala and Bootstrap. Cake patterns also have a novel approach that helps you make a pattern customized to your size.
As far as I’m aware, there are no pattern companies currently specializing in apple, larger bust, or top-heavy shapes (though anecdotally heard some people think that Hot Patterns may draft for a bit of a tummy, and StyleArc may draft for a more rectangular shape), but let me know if you know of one.
Do you find your body shape is particularly well served by certain pattern companies? We’d love to hear more!
Nothing for us apples–it figures. I just checked a Vogue I bought today and it has all four symbols, although I picked it because it seemed good for my apple shape. Maybe I’ve got good at selecting something that suits most anyone!
Hello, I’m very new to all this (just having a go at my first Sewaholic skirt) but reading all this I can’t help but wonder, at what point do you think never mind all these alterations, I’ll just draft my own? Sorry if that’s a silly question!
Honestly, I think that a lot of us are getting to that point. If you follow a lot of sewing blogs, I think you’ll find that there seems to be an upward trend (at least in my perception) of sewists taking sloper and drafting classes and reading drafting books–whether it’s on Craftsy or in person.
Thanks, that’s interesting.
I am short rectangle with a proportionally long torso, short arms and legs and a big belly. Even when I weighed 100 pounds (40 years ago) I had to alter patterns. Petite sizes don’t fit because of my long torso; plus sizes don’t fit because my “waist,” such as it is, is only a few inches less than my hip – if the hip fits, the waist is too small, if the waist fits the hips balloon out or sag. And now that I am older I have had to limit my style even more for a saggy bust, saggy belly, and scarred knees from surgery. Fortunately my grandmother, who taught me to sew, gave me drafting and couturier sewing lessons in my teens, so now I don’t buy commercial patterns anymore. I have a few basic patterns I use over and over again and restyle for each new garment. I’ve recently begun downloading patterns from the internet, mostly free ones, and I compare them to my basics to see if they will fit me. I would recommend that ANYONE with a non-standard shape (I was going to say “odd,” but then, we’re all odd) learn how to draft, or at least restyle a basic pattern to make your own style. I think my 2 biggest pet peeves are: 1/) that RTW clothes and patterns made for plus sizes are shapeless and 2) that any clothes – RTW or hand-made just don’t seem to fit anyone anymore. If you draft your own, you’ll never have that problem.
This is why plus sized bodies are so difficult to fit in rtw. We all come in different shapes and sizes. Coni Crawford has a line of shirt/blouse slopers that go up to I-cup bust sizes. I don’t find her patterns specifically for pear shapes, however, she does design her plus size patterns for women with larger bellies, bottoms, and thighs. I am built like that, which is why I gravitate toward her patterns. I’d be the first to admit her designs appeal to older women, but I use them as my guide because they require fewer adjustments. Once I get the fit right I can use them as a sloper for other patterns.
I find her patterns fit me well, also. I agree, the styling is geared towards older women, and if you can get past that, she has some great classic patterns that can be used for any age.
To your description of Petite Plus patterns, I think it’s worth adding Full tummy and narrower shoulders. They’re great for an apple shape, I just wish the pattern cover illustrations were a bit more inspiring -I struggle to use my imagination sometimes!
I’m curious as to whether these patterns would be good for me? I’m short and pear-ish, but a bit of an hourglass with more sand in the bottom, lol. I like the wrap dress a lot. Would I need to do much altering to make the waist fit, do you think? It seems otherwise it would be good for me.
I think it could be good for you. The measurement charts are here.
http://www.petitepluspatterns.com/sizing/Sizing+Charts.html
I’d measure all of those points, compare and see what you think. You can also use one size for the upper torso and go out to another size for lower down if you need to. Which bits don’t fit well if you try and use one of the big 4 patterns?
Thanks! Usually, if the waist fits, the hips are too small. Way too small. I have quite a full backside. (Sigh.) And I’ve come to the conclusion I need a full bust adjustment to make bodices fit both shoulders and bust. Also, I’m 5’2″ and short waisted. I may just give that wrap dress a try. I actually have the pattern already.
There are quite a few reviews of this dress on pattern review. I am a pear and they fit me great.
Thank you! Good to know! I may give it a try!
What? You don’t find the John Deere fabric inspiring? Say it ain’t so!
(haha– yes, her artwork/ samples are hilarious with the fabric choices.)
I have had great luck with her patterns. I have to alter because I am tall, 5’8″.
But not having to alter for my narrow shoulders is a great plus!
She has 2 classes on Craftsy on fitting our narrow shoulders etc that are so worth it!
The diagrams are not inspiring, I admit, but the fit is amazing. And great basics that fit are so worth it.
I have seen one of her fashion shows and she doesn’t use any john Deere fabric any more. I have seen the leather riding jacket and leather pants she made fore herself as she continues to find her bliss!
http://www.freenotion.com/blog/2015/6/16/theres-a-designer-for-that
Good info here. Btw, has Blue Ginger Doll given up the ghost? They don’t appear to be selling patterns anymore. I am sure running a company is difficult. And reading the free notion article reminded me how hard drafting patterns must be. But with all the cool stuff the indies are doing with computers, I wonder why the big guys aren’t doing more to up their games.
OMG, just went to the Bootstrap site – wow! I’ve ordered a top pattern for my Princess daughter and will be seeing her this weekend, so will take the toile and report back via my blog. If this customised pattern stuff really works it will be amazing. FYI I was able to enter full bust and underbust measurements as well as options for broad back, broad front, high waist etc. Oooooh, so excited to try it. Thanks so much for the heads up on this fab idea.
I’m currently loving the Simplicity Amazing Fit range. Because they offer a curvy option that includes a FBT, the only thing I have to do is shorten the back waist and I’m ready to sew. There’s allowance made for my ‘child bearing hips’ as well as my thunderous thighs. It’s so good to find that most of the work has been done for me, I’m building a library of wardrobe basics to make over & over forever & ever. I’d highly recommend this range to any new sewists as the instructions are very wonderful too – starting out with these will make learning to make your own pattern adjustment a lot simpler
I know Tenterhook designs specifically for plus sizes, and drafts for a D cup. Does anyone know what type of shape is the target for this company?
Nothing for us rectangles?
I love the European magazines, my favorite is Ottobre but have had great luck with burda plus. I think my German heritage shows in my butte!
My sister however is shaped much differently. She is 6′ tall with broad shoulders and a DD bust, apple shaped and slim hipped. We have had great luck with the Sandra Bettzina Vogue patterns for her with very little alterations.
From the Muse Patterns website
“Muse Patterns are designed for an hourglass figure, a B cup, and a height of 5 ft 10″ / 177cm.
Selected patterns also have sizes for a D cup. Currently the Melissa pattern comes with both B cup and D cup options.
(Cup sizes in sewing patterns refer to the difference between your high bust and full bust. A ‘B cup’ has a difference of 2” between high bust and full bust measurements. A ‘D cup’ has a difference of 4” between high bust and full bust measurements.)”
I’m still waiting for someone to design for the rectangle. I’m fairly tall, broad-shouldered, but bust, waist and hips are basically the same size. When everyone else disparages the shapeless shift, a lot of times that’s my best look. I’ve made a few dresses designed for curvier people, and it does not make me look curvier (like I hoped). I looked ludicrous — think putting a va-va-voom dress on a Coke can;) What looks good on a rectangle can vary depending on how thick or thin the rectangle is (are you an H or an I — I’m definitely an H). The best style advice I’ve found for rectangles is on Imogene Lampert’s blog http://www.insideoutstyleblog.com.
Have you tried Grainline patterns? I feel like her designs would work well on a straighter figure, perhaps?
I haven’t, but from just looking at her patterns I think you are right.
I’ve concluded that I will have to make adjustments no matter what the pattern brand, but it’s good to know the differences. (I was recently surprised at how different Jalie is from my usual Burda top patterns). One thing though, I have to say that I often disagree with the pattern companys’ figure type recommendations. For example, they usually recommend patterns with a waistline for me (slimming, I guess), but the “types” do not take my short-waistedness into account. The recommended style is often not good for me. I also disagree with attempts to cover up or minimize a full bustline, which tends to result in just the opposite! In my view, I just think about proportions, fit as best I can, and try to avoid the blocky rectangular or tent look.
Jalie drafts for an athletic body. I’ve noticed I get good shoulder fit with Jalies, and I’m broad shouldered. So I’d guess that figure type is close to the V shape– broad shouldered and otherwise slim and narrow hipped.
I agree. I’m encouraged to enhance my waist in contrast to my huge hips… but I actually feel most confident in a dress/top that’s all about my bust. Which is a staggeringly small B/C cup for my 60″ hips! Whatevs, I like my bust and I like to enhance it with sweetheart and more plunging necklines lol. I’ve got my eye on that Cambie dress from Sewaholic now. Avoiding the the blocky rectangular or ew, tent look is absolutely key! Ew. Thank you for this post!
I’m a pear and I’m 5′-9″. I have had good luck with older Burda Plus biannual magazines from 2008-2012. They have some great pants/trousers patterns that only need minor tweaking for a sway back. I still have a subscription even though the more recent issues have clothes that I don’t gravitate to stylistically. I’m also excited about the upcoming September 2015 Burda because the plus-sized section in the online preview looks great.
Knowing that Burda Plus tops are drafted for D-cup helps and in hindsight makes complete sense. I’ve had some gaping issues in the past that has deterred me from the tops. I’ll have to try some bust alterations.
Melissa at FehrTrade turned me on to KnipMode, a Dutch magazine, several years ago. Depending on the pattern, I’m on the upper edge of their “regular” patterns or into their “plus” sizes. Although I haven’t purchased a pattern recently, I’ve had good luck with their patterns in the past, maybe because they’re drafted for people taller than the average height (I’ve heard the Dutch are tall in general compared to the rest of the world). The magazines are entirely in Dutch, but experienced sewists can get by. FehrTrade has reviews of past issues of KnipMode if you want to get a peek. I purchased mine through Naaipatronen.nl, where you can also get other European magazines like La Maison Victor and MyImage on a secure payment platform.
I also recommend checking out Ottobre Design (ottobredesign.com), which is a Finnish-based pattern magazine that publishes its issues in multiple languages. They just put up the preview for their Autumn/Winter 2015 issue, and I appreciate that they use models in many shapes. They do a lot of children’s patterns, but they also have a couple of women’s issues a year. They often go up to European size 52 for most of their patterns, and I feel like they represent a Scandinavian aesthetic. They include a pretty good mix of patterns for both knit and woven fabrics. I’ve had good luck with shorts, and I have several knit tops on my to-do list. If you don’t want to try a full subscription, you can purchase individual issues of both women’s and children’s magazines from their Etsy store. The only downside is that it takes a while to get to North America if purchased from the Etsy platform. You can purchase a subscription through their site.
I agree–I’m really encouraged by what I’ve seen so far from the preview for the Plus patterns in the upcoming September Burda.
Ottobre has great basics AND includes all sizes for nearly every pattern.
Rumor also has it that Knipmode is going to be moving towards all-inclusive Ottobre-style sizing, so that opens up another interesting option.
I also really appreciate that Ottobre tells the size the model is or at least is wearing to get a sense of the fit and ease for the pattern.
Awesome tips, thank you!
Lovely guide to the pattern companies! I find it strange that no company seems to make patterns for us tall girls! Burda has some but never to my taste. Being a tall (6.2), curvy (EU size 42) hourglass with a EU cup F means a minimum of 5 pattern changes… But as the recent post on CSC mentions: hoorah to knowing how to change patterns 🙂 But always disappointing when your newly enhanced circle skirt pattern doesn’t fit on your fabric anymore 🙂
The tall and the top-heavy are two figure types that are clearly an open niche waiting for an enterprising pattern designer to fill.
If only we could design them ourselves 🙂
This is why I signed up for Suzy Furrer’s sloper classes on Craftsy (although my understanding is that her methods might not work well for my uber-busty figure…but I guess we’ll see!).
That sounds good, curious to know if this works! I love Craftsy, and swear by Joi Mahon’s method – got her book and the craftsy class. The efforts us busty girls have to make…sigh…but totally worth it!
There is an Australian pattern company that started recently. She designs for DD/E and larger – might translate to different USA cup sizes. The postage might be a killer though
Thanks for sharing that! I hadn’t heard of them previously.
Muse patterns drafts for a g’11”, I think. Still a few inches off you but much closer than 5’7″, and she drafts for an hourglass too!
Maybe I should give them another look then 🙂 Did not know they drafted for taller women!
The nice thing about all of this is that once you know what shape a company drafts for, you can make it work for yourself regardless of your figure type. My favourite pattern companies (Jalie, Kitschy Koo, Closet Case Files, Maria of Denmark etc) don’t draft for a pear shape, but as long as I remember to chose a larger size for my bottom half, it’s all good!
Ha- I never thought of myself as hourglass shaped, but more pear-shaped. It depends on the company for me… particularly for indie patterns, if my bust size is within the size range, my hips can be waaaay off the charts.
THIS. Bust, oh yeah, no problem. Butt? I’ll have to add a few inches! 😉
Same here. I have a 14″ difference between my waist and hips. And I’m short waisted and only 5’2″. And a DD bust, though I’m still somewhat pear shaped. Yikes! I haven’t been sewing that long, and I’m still trying to work a lot of this out. I’d love some day to make a shirt with buttons that actually FITS.
Excellent information. I hadn’t heard of quite a few of these, and I didn’t know about D cup being the average either.
Have you or anyone else used Lekela or Bootstrap patterns? How do you feel about them?
Yes, please someone give us some feedback about Lekala patterns! I just discovered the website and am very tempted to order something. Also, the pricing is REALLY competitive! Anyone got any personal experience to share?
I love Lekala and use them almost exclusively now. However, they don’t work for everyone (but no pattern brand does, or can), and they require quite a different mindset, including total honesty about your measurements, the ability to decide on your own fabrics, yardage/metrage and construction techniques, and a fair degree of self-analysis to get the best out of them.