When I first heard of wardrobe capsules, it was in the context of minimalism and travel. You know… cutting down your wardrobe and traveling the world for three weeks with four articles of clothing, looking fresh and funky every morning. The stuff of Project 333 and every single ‘Classic White Shirt Wardrobe’ magazine article ever written.
I had a problem with that approach to wardrobe planning… apart from an ingrained gypsy-magpie love of bright-colored clothes that resists any thought of reducing a wardrobe to less than 40 garments, most capsule-based plans are very top-and-bottom centric. A couple of neutral ‘bottoms’ (trousers and a cute pencil or A-line skirt) and a bunch of mix’n’match shirts. There might be one basic dress (hello LBD, we see you) perfect for dressing up and down as the occasion merits.
But I like to wear dresses. All day, every day. Over the years, I’ve moved from more structured, still-beloved, vintage-style fit and flare styles to less structured lagenlook-inspired styles, but nevertheless, I am a dress girl with a bust that has never met a ‘classic white shirt’ that wasn’t sloppy and too big or fitted and gaping at the buttons (I know, I know… Harrison Shirt.)
BTW — if you are one of those who digs a more classic wardrobe capsule, check out Liesl’s ‘Core Wardrobe’ over at Oliver + S… she has great, classic style and has been posting a lot on Instagram lately!
Nevertheless, I’m drawn to Sewing With a Plan (SWAP) schemes and like to make sure I’m not sewing orphans. Plus, my style (less structure, more layers) lends itself well to wardrobe based sewing projects. When it comes down to it, there are different goals that might inform your decision to use a wardrobe capsule plan.
Wardrobe Capsule Goals
- Maximize closet (or suitcase) space — the original ‘minimalist’ approach of cleaning out the closet. Great idea for travel, too!
- Avoid wardrobe orphans — you know what I’m talking about. That dress with the integrated crinoline that you just had to sew (or buy) that’s been taking up too much room in your closet since the one time you wore it…
- Sew with structure — there’s something about structure that helps reign in and focus creativity. Julie Powell did it with Julia Child’s recipes and Gertie started out doing the same thing with the Vogue’s New Book for Better Sewing. Sure, it might feel contrived or stunt-like, but putting a structure on your sewing will help focus your creativity.
- Push creativity — closely related to sewing with structure, by choosing to sew with rules, you will stimulate your creativity. I’ve had times where I’ve wanted to sew… something but could not decide what to sew. Eventually, it gets boring to sew another-one-of-what-you-already-made. By sewing a capsule, especially the Sudoku-style capsule, you are forced to do a little creative problem solving to make sure each ‘line’ in your Sudoku works. This creates a good kick-in-the-creative-fanny!
- Create a statement (and sew with joy) — stylists will talk about your ‘statement’ piece to wear every day and set the ‘tone’ for your style. While I don’t particularly think it’s necessary to stick with a single ‘style’, that can be a great goal in simplifying your life and seeing your wardrobe as a creative extension of your soul, rather than a problematic, occasionally difficult evil. Anyone who’s been through a disappointing afternoon of shopping for jeans or a bathing suit knows what I’m talking about. Use wardrobe capsule planning to create garments that reflect ‘you’, create a consistent vibe and fill you with joy and your sewing/clothes shopping becomes a super duper fun place to be.
Pick Your Approach
For a dress-based Sudoku, you’ll have to pick an approach. Well, you don’t have to do anything, but…
My preferred planning style is the Sudoku. This framework is a bit more strict and is more ‘outfit-based’, which should leave you with ten new outfits that you will wear on the regular. I think the 4×4 method is great for a separates-based capsule that can serve as a foundation for a full wardrobe, but if we’re headed down layering way, as one does with a dress-based capsule, Sudoku will for sure get us there. Can’t remember the difference between Sudoku and 4×4? Then head back to Jennifer’s great overview to brush up on the details.
Guidelines for a layered or dress based capsule
This spring I sewed a wardrobe Sudoku capsule that was based on the rules for a contest over at Pattern Review. I was amused that in the contest description it was mentioned that the Sudoku framework really worked best for tops and bottoms and not for dresses. Loving a challenge, I set out to prove that statement wrong.
Nevertheless, there is a slight mindset change needed if you are sewing for a dress-based capsule rather than one with standard trousers and shirts.
- No more tops and bottoms! Instead of ‘two trousers, two skirts and four shirts’ think of creating garments that work together.
- It’s all about proportion. Instead of ‘tops’ and ‘bottoms’ start sorting patterns by proportion. Longer, shorter, etc. This opens up the door for building up layers that will work together.
- Pattern and color mixing and matching. While you can totally build a neutral, dress-based wardrobe capsule, when you start focusing on layers you have a great opportunity to really work with patterns. Here is my favorite combination (have a look at my article on choosing a color palette for your capsule wardrobe for more on this!).
- One ‘classic’ pattern that reads as a neutral. Favorites include pinstripes, ticking, toile, gingham, and polka dots.
- One ‘pop’ pattern or color. This is where I’ll pull in brighter colors (especially in great fabrics like cashmere or patterned solids like damask) or else integrate florals.
- One neutral to pull it all together. This is often a cardigan or the base slip or bloomers. Here are a few examples of mix’n’match patterns I love
Think outside the box
When building a dress-based capsule, start thinking out of the box to maximize layers and get more outfit options. Layer things in new ways or look for ways to wrap, adjust and knot your dresses and cardigans to create new silhouettes and show off all your great patterns
- Foundation garments as outerwear — if you love the 50’s vintage silhouette of a fitted bodice and flared skirt, consider making a few dresses way shorter than you’d normally wear as your ‘short’ layer. Wear with brightly colored petticoats or knee length skirts.
- Add knots — Love maxi dresses and skirts? I often will layer two maxi’s or a maxi and a skirt and tie a knot in the maxi so the inner layer shows through.
- Create a new silhouette by wrapping a cardi — pair a looser dress with a longer cardigan that’s knotted or wrapped and tucked to create a more fitted bodice and waist.
New garments styles to consider
While I keep saying ‘dress-based capsule’ I do actually wear ‘bottoms’… just not standard ones! Consider a few new garments that lend themselves well to layering and make dress-wearing in the summer more comfortable (I’m talking about you, chub-rub)
- Bloomers — I’m a huge fan of bloomers for everyday wear. Here are a couple pictures of what I mean. Wear with a tank for a more standard ‘top and bottom’ look, or wear under a dress as another layer. I personally don’t care for how I look in jeans and trousers and really only wear jeans occasionally around the farm or walking the dog. I love the silhouette of bloomers (I mean, they are practically a skirt with all that fabric). It’s pretty fun wearing them out and about, too… I get so many comments from random women who love my outfit! If you’re looking for a pattern, start with the Sew Tina Givens website.
- Leggings — Leggings make a great layer in a dress-based wardrobe and are nice and comfy under dresses if you have trouble with thigh chafing. I personally tend to wear shorter dresses (mid-thigh) and leggings more in the winter for warmth and for the summer switch to longer dresses, bloomers, and the chafing gel in the blue tube which I’m super excited to also try as a face primer.
- Aprons — similar to bloomers, aprons (or pinafores) are a garment that was more popular in Laura Ingall’s Wilder’s time but is still popular in some pockets of the internet (i.e. my blog). A cute apron/pinafore over a tank is nice and cool in the summer! Here’s my Pinterest board where I was obsessing over it, for your reference and here’s the pattern (Tina Givens’ Hunter Jumper) that I’m plotting on making with my next capsule.
My ‘core’ garments
These are my core garments that I live in, sew, and snap up at thrift shops for my dress-based wardrobe. I’ve sorted into the categories used in the Sudoku framework for reference.
Bottoms
- Bloomers — super lightweight linen for under dresses (too sheer to wear alone) and thicker weights to wear alone. I mostly make from neutral colors and patterns.
- Leggings — I still buy all my leggings, but will probably start experimenting with making more in prints this fall.
- Slipdresses — a slipdress is a longer dress that is not fitted at all and is meant to be worn as a bottom layer. I often will play with the hem — adding ruffles, pleats, and ruching. Thrift shops are a great place to look for slipdresses — tons of rather dowdy rayon numbers out there that look great if you add a few fun hem details.
- Skirts — I prefer dresses over skirts since dresses can work as top or bottom layers, but I do have a growing collection of skirts that I’ve been working on. As with the slipdresses, I pay attention to fun hem treatments and detailing for the bottom/under layers.
Tops
Frocks and tunics — ‘frocks’ is my catch-all word for dresses that I intend to wear as an outer layer. The only real difference between a slip dress and a frock is that I will use heavier weight fabrics for frocks (you don’t want a bottom layering piece too stiff) and I make sure the armscye for frocks is decent. I have a few slipdresses that show my bra off but don’t really care because it’s all covered up. Tunics are the same thing as frocks… but shorter 🙂
Accessories
- Dusters — By duster, I mean a longer garment that buttons all the way down the front. It can be sleeveless, short or long-sleeved, although a traditional duster is a long-sleeved outwear garment. That has something to do with the wild west. In historical fashion terms, this garment is similar to a pelisse. In any case, the full button front offers tons of options for layering. Wear over a slipdress and only button up the bodice buttons. Tie up the front hemline in knots for a fun detail. Button all the way up and wear as a underlayer… I love this style of garment. This, also, is a good thrift find as there are a lot of rayon school mistress pieces out there that you can get for a few dollars and alter to make your own.
- Cardigans — I live for cardigans. I tend to wear cropped or very long cardis and like asymmetrical hems that scoop up at the sides.
- Scarves — A great way to fill up the ‘accessory’ box on the wardrobe Sudoku if you’re feeling stuck.
Footwear
Shoes are part of the wardrobe Sudoku — at least, the way I did my last Sudoku. Here are the shoe styles I like for this style of dressing.
- Ballet flats — super cute, but a lot of women have trouble with flats. I have a plate and screws in one of my feet from breaking it a few years ago, so can’t wear flats for very long anymore. I use Superfeet inserts — pricey, but so worth it.
- Combat boots — looks great with longer dress styles or leggings! Especially if, like me, you grew up in the 90’s and just can’t quite give up the Docs.
- Prairie-style tall boots — I love, love, love my full lace brown boots with bloomers! Very Little House on the Prairie. I’ve had good luck finding cute boots in this style at Torrid, although the materials aren’t that great….
- Oxfords — A lot of women who dress in lagenlook, layered, prairie style love oxfords. These are the lace-up style of shoes that have a menswear vibe. I personally dislike oxfords on me due to a long, difficult relationship with being very tall and not ever having jeans that covered my ankles in elementary school. But they are super cute on other people and cute with the longer, layered look!
So what does a dress-based wardrobe capsule look like?
I recently completed a dress-based Sudoku wardrobe capsule for fun. Here’s my design board as well as shots of all the resulting outfits.
The Design Board
The Design Board with Finished Garments
The Spring Sudoku Capsule | Patty Brower
And like many of you, I’m planning a new capsule for summer. Here’s the start of my design board. Empty spaces are for footwear or jewelry (my wardrobe, my rules)…
One note on this design board — if you reviewed the ‘rules’ in Jennifer’s post, this one might seem a bit strange – for example, in ‘outfit #2’ – I wouldn’t really wear a tank, dress and skirt together because the dress would cover up the tank! This is my first pass after picking fabrics. As I start making things, I’ll rearrange and it will all come together and make sense by the end!!
So what’s on your sewing design board? Ready to go with all dresses are take the plunge into recreational bloomer wear? I’d love to hear your plans!
I am really loving your look. Is there any chance you would do a follow-up post on where you got the patterns for a lot of these? They do not seem to be the typical pattern look I see around and I am curious as to where you found them.
Love your style and all of the great ideas in this post.
This is such a great, detailed post! Thank you for taking the time to explain your style and method so clearly (and with pictures, yay!). I’ve been drawn to Lagenlook lately and I love seeing all your outfits. It’s nice to think outside of the top and bottom outfits! I picked up some big4 patterns in the lagenlook style from Katherine Tilton and I’m starting with those.
I do worry about the summer heat though with all the layers…I’m melting and dying if the temp goes over 78degrees lol. (I’m in NJ and the summers here are SO humid and hot lately) I find my summer ‘uniform’ is a flowy thin blouse or tshirt with shorts or capris. I have major chub rub on my inner thighs so dresses can be more uncomfortable than anything for me. Aside from the bloomers, do you have any other tips for loose or comfortable bottom layers that would prevent chub rub?
Hi Michell! Thanks for your nice words 🙂 I’m a big fan of the silicone lotion gel stuff that’s made by monistat in the blue tube for chub rub 🙂 and I get the concern over layers – I tend to wear lighter fabrics in the summer – light linen, chiffon, rayon challis — that kind of thing!
Oh thanks for the tip! I’ve heard some ppl love the monistat gel for that, I’ll have to give it a try. Also, I’ll have to be more picky about my fabric choices.. I used to just buy fabrics based on how pretty they were or the price, but now I’m finding a lot of fabrics in my stash are the sweaty type…the ones that you can hold in your hand for a few min and already you can tell they’re gonna make you feel gross lol. I’m trying to restrict my new fabric purchases to linen blends or rayon or bamboo. Might be more expensive at times but I’m assuming it will be worth it! Take care 😉
I love this post and your look, but I had to comment to point out that g***y is actually a horrible racial slur against Romani people, and shouldn’t be used as a synonym for bohemian or carefree given the terrible persecution Romani face even now in Europe and elsewhere. I realise those in the US may be less aware of the persecution of Romani people, but could you please use a different term? Thanks.
Patty thank you for your dress wearing post. I live in the heart of Florida and already we have had days over 100, so because we live in less than 400 square, I have decided to make a capsule wardrobe of sundresses, I do need to keep a couple pair of shorts and tank tops for fishing and NASCAR races, but dresses at home it will be. But I have been looking for a pattern for little tennis bloomers, (like the ladies use to wear in the 70’s and before). We have a garden and it is not a pretty site for me to bend over and share what’s underneath. Anything longer than those style bloomers would just be way to hot to wear. But I do love the lagenlook also. For the lady who asked about it for someone over 65, I will tell you I saw a lady at Tampa International dressed in the lagenlook style, and believe you me she rocked it great. I am 60 also, and have stopped second guessing if I can or can’t, because of her. And Patty I totally get the white shirt problem. If I buy white and my daughter finds out she goes, “Oh Mom, not white. ” Everything ends up on my very ample bust. LOL! Thanks again for your post.
Hey MJ – This is exactly like the chris everett pic I just googled from 1976 – but maybe the colette madeleines? Free download 🙂 https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/madeleine
Love your style. I especially love your longline cardigan/jacket – the one that buttons up over the bust. Did you make this, and if you did, can you please tell me what pattern you used? All of your outfits look gorgeous.
Hey Lisa – I think you mean the purple cardi?? If so, it’s technically self-drafted, here’s the blog post. I think I went and found a similar cut pattern, although not the one I used 🙂 http://pattybrower.com/2017/04/finished-the-lavender-lounge-duster/
Wonderful post Patty! I agree with so many others that your sewing work and fashion style are absolutely perfect! I have a strong impression that your style and choice of fabrics is reminiscent of Gudrun Sjoden. She also delights in lagenlook. You have given me fresh inspiration for sewing projects this summer!
Yay! Debbie – I love gudrun sjoden 🙂 My very favorite designer is Ivey Abitz. I wrote a post not too long ago listing a lot of my favorite designers and fashion styles – http://pattybrower.com/2017/03/new-look-prairie/
This was great and inspiring. I love your style, it looks so fun to wear! I’m inspired 🙂
🙂 Thank you Lina!!
I love your style! I enjoy seeing the cute fitted dresses that others make, but they just don’t work for me – layers is the way to go!
🙂 Layers rule!
Finally a seamstress after my own vintage, girlie, dress wearing heart ❤️ This post will be lovingly saved, & shared with like friends. I love the creative idea of bloomers. You did a wonderful job of inserting healthy doses of vintage & whimsy into your capsule. I’ve been slowly shedding bits of the work wardrobe since retiring, & now have the provided impetus to get rid of the whole darn work wardrobe. I wish we lived closer to each other, I know we would be close friends.
THANK you for beeing so sweet! Get rid of that work wardrobe… although I have to admit, there is one black suite and one black sheath-style dress hanging out in the attic… just in case 🙂 X)
Love-Love-Love your style!!
The first thing I noticed was that I wear too many formless clothes. why? I don’t look thinner, maybe even bigger. Today I noticed the beautiful shape to your clothes accentuates how great you look. That’s it! Time for me to sew something with a waistline! ;o) Your wardrobe is fantastic! Thank You for sharing your ideas!
I’m in MN too ;o)
😉 Hey E, fellow minnesotan! I am a fan of the waist — it’s easy to ‘fake’ with a cropped cardi, too 🙂
I love your look. Would it work on a 65+ year old? should I care?
I’m 60 I think it’s perfect for me Nancy! :o)
Hey Nancy! Hahahaha – I am the totally wrong person to ask – I think all things work for all people, regardless of age or any other criteria. Clothes should make us happy – that’s what makes them work (or not). XO
I love everything you are wearing. (I can’t wear flats, but your outfits would go with my clunky, support shoes)
As a fellow Minnesotan, I love the layers. I peel and add throughout these spring days!
🙂 hello fellow-sotan! At home I usually wear leopard print crocs that are flats (I’m wearing them in the picture) – the print cracks me up and they don’t hurt my robo-foot with the plate. When I leave the house during the summer it’s usually dansko’s that I wear or flats with the insert. Ah, for the days pre-surgery… now, too flat = youch and too high = double youch.
OMG I totally love your style!
🙂 Thanks!
Thank you for this great post! Nothing against any style, but I find there are so many posts on the “vintage” 1950s look on the blogs these days, it is really great to see an in-depth post on a different style. I find I am really drifting into the Alabama Chanin/layered look as I get older so this post was spot on for me. I’d love to read more from you (and I followed you on Pinterest!).
Yeah – I love the 50’s silhouette, but it doesn’t fit with my lifestyle. Longer dresses = I can be in the garden without worrying about giving the B&B guests a show!! And love Alabama Chanin…. I just spent 12 hours adding a AC style detail to a t-shirt’s neck and sleeves…. 🙂 I try to stay up with my blog over at pattybrower.com. And yay Pinterest!
This is my style of dressing and all your examples have stirred the inspiration pot. Thanks for the ideas!
I’m glad you liked it!
Oh thank you, I am dress wearer too, and this is the first time I have found a dress capsule wardrobe. I just realised you are SnugBug and had that lovely dog in your blog years ago!!! You look fabulous in your sudoku wardrobe. I look forward to making my own capsule.
hahaha – yes, I am, indeed the Snugbug. And I still have a basset hound, Peppermint – also we have 10 new little chickens and 2 orange cats. So my Facebook and IG feed are pretty much Patty on the farm these days.
This has really gotten me thinking about what I really like in the clothes I wear most, and I’ve realized I’m really texture sensitive. I care much less about how my clothes look as I do how they feel. Fabrics have to be super soft, and I despise really heavy waistbands or edges. Maybe in sewing my own clothes I can merge more style with how they feel.
I love the heavily layered look, but it’s horribly hot here during the summer, so I’m going for cool and comfortable while style having a bit of a plan. I’m still an intermediate seamstress, so clothes have to be fairly simply to sew or they take me forever to make. I put together a few things on a Pinterest board at https://www.pinterest.com/michelle1547/capsule-wardrobe/
I like the start you have on the Pinterest board! And I totally get the texture thing, although I will go with ick fabrics if I love the print… and then never wear what I made 🙂
Where are you that it’s so hot? The layered thing can work – if you just go with light, floaty fabrics. In the summer I’d rather have loose layers than fitted lightweight single layers – TOTALLY with you on the waistbands!! 🙂 Of course, this summer I’m in northern Minnesota, so it won’t get hot. Although I’ve been in the south for the last few years…. – the bloomers + tanks are really nice for hot, hot days.
Patty, I love this post! I am a big dress wearer, too, and you’ve given me lots of ideas. I just keep making one off dresses but I’ll be thinking hard this weekend about how I might change this all up. Brava!
I still have a TON of one-off dresses, but don’t wear them nearly as often as I used to. It really IS a lifestye thing with me. I’m either working around the farm/B&B or planted in my office. Most of my onesie dresses are knee length and I hate when they hike up and I stick to my leather office chair!
You know a couple of years ago, I made a sewing plan, since I was going on this European Boat cruise up the Rhine, Danube….(sounds wonderful…well it was!) I felt so focused and intentional in my sewing, I loved it…..I can’t seem to get there of late, so I’ve taken these Monthly Pink Sheets…in which you’ve list your sewing goals for the month, along with places for additional ideas…..well it’s working, so far have finished my white linen skirt with navy fish floating by – perfect for any summer event, dress downed with T-shirt or my TTP for a turquoise shirt. (Planning on wearing this Sunday for Mother’s Day fashion show) …and a white on white seersucker shirt for all kinds of slacks….on my idea list, I’ve decided to shorten 2 pairs of rayon cropped pants….making them shorter and more “in style” for my trip out west to see my sister…..so a list does seem to help…! Loved reading this post, thanks!
Laura – I feel like I saw you mention the pink sheets on another post?? Is there a link to them on the internet or is this something you made up? (I tried searching and hahahaha – this post is what came up #nothelpful!) It seems like my sewing list is SO full of things like your rayon crops — adjusting and editing what I already have!