Underwear is a great intro to sewing lingerie. You can use leftover knit fabric from garment projects, like bamboo, ITY knits, or cotton lycra, and once you find a pattern you like, it’s quick to crank out a pair for every day of the week!
I started sewing my own underwear a year and a half ago, and now I only wear RTW if it’s the last pair in the drawer. My personal preference is a retro high-waisted “granny panty” style, made with bright ITY fabric, colourful fold-over elastic, and a cotton gusset. I find they stay in place all day, smooth things out a bit, and work well with almost all of my clothing.
To each their own, though – here are some plus-size patterns you might like to try!
Jalie Underwear
Jalie is famous for their skating costumes and gymnastics leotards, so O figure they must know a thing or two about drafting bottoms that will stay put! Jalie 3242 offers low- and mid-rise underwear, as well as a thong option. The size range goes up to a 53″ hip. Bonus: This pattern includes designs and sizing for men, women children!
Pin-Up Girls Basic Panty
Designed by the “Fairy Bra-Mother” at Bra Maker’s Supply, this pattern seems to only come in hardcopy. It offers high and low cut versions, with two different leg styles. The size range goes up to a 54″ hip.
Kitschy Coo Boy Cut Brief
This women’s pattern is based on the designers similar pattern for children. The waist and legs are finished with a folded fabric band, so it’s a perfect pattern if you don’t have lingerie elastics on hand. It comes in mid-rise and low-rise variations. The size range goes up to a 48″ hip, but I found the sizing very generous when I made a pair.
Barbara Deckert’s Girdle Patterns
Ok, these aren’t underwear… but they are undergarments! Barbara’s “Hunky Punky Panty Girdle” and the shorts versions, the “Gargoyle Panty Girdle” are designed to give support and shaping, but I imagine that in a light-weight fabric or a larger size, they could make equally nice knickers! Impressively, the size range runs from hips 57″-75″.
Kwik Sew 3881
Big 4 Patterns
Kwik Sew 3881 offers 4 different styles. It goes up to a 45-47″ hip. Gertie’s slip and underwear set (B6031) goes up to a 46″ hip.
Copy RTW
I’ll be frank: It’s hard to find a true plus-size underwear pattern. Which means it’s time to get creative…If you have RTW undies that you love, try tracing them to make a pattern. You’ll want to stretch out the elastic as you trace, and be sure to sew thm up in a similar type of fabric.
Use a bikini or bathingsuit pattern
The Nautilus bathing suit by Seamstress Erin, shown above, offers sizes up to a 55″ hip. Erin’s even done a tutorial on how to use a swimsuit pattern to sew underwear!
OhhhLulu Ava panties, available as a PDF.
Grading up a smaller pattern
As it happens, my TNT underwear pattern is based on a pattern by OhhhLulu that only goes up to a 42″ hip. My hips are 47″, but honestly, with a pattern as simple as underwear, it’s really easy to freehand a size or two larger than the nested pattern.
If you haven’t sewn underwear before, here are some tutorials to get you started:
- Sewing Panties Tutorial by A Very Purple Person
- Sarah from Ohhh Lulu did a series of video tutorials for Kollabora, and also has great technique posts on her blog
- Brigitte from Indigo Orchid explains basic construction and some option extras like different elastics or lace inserts
I’d love to hear about what patterns and fabrics are successful for you. Did I miss any plus-friendly patterns in the round-up?
Beverly Johnson wrote a book:make and fit panties and they are sooooooo easy to draft your own according to your measurements that it almost feels like cheating! You start with a basic briefs pattern and the book then shows you how to take your draft and change it to many different styles. I really like the book-made briefs, high leg briefs, bikini and bike shorts and used the boy short instructions to make a bathing suit. Tried the all lace boyshort and thong-really pretty to look at but not my style. BUT they fit well everywhere and I know it’s the style not the fit that didn’t work. Hope this helps someone. She also offers a 1 day class if you prefer that. I like the book.
It is now out of print, but Kwik Sew used to carry a nice plus size panty, Kwik Sew 2930. It was sized 1X-4X, hip 47″-59″, with either regular or high cut leg openings. The pattern also included a half-slip and a camisole.
http://kwiksew.mccall.com/k2930-products-19737.php?page_id=3023
Coni Crawford (FashionPatterns.com) has patterns for lingerie which include briefs and longleg. These can also be used for shapewear–just use spandex fabric and cut one size smaller.
Great post – thankyou! I just went and downloaded the kitschy koo briefs – I hate elastic on knickers so love the idea of a folded band.
I’m a big fan of the Barrie Briefs. I just made them for the first time and they fit really well!
Cannot wait to try some of these patterns. I managed to find the kwik sew one on ebay and snapped it up. Looks like a great pattern for lounge shorts and long undies for summer dresses.
Awesome! I hope it works out for you!
there’s another Canadian pattern company I haven’t seen mentioned, its Lingerie Secrets, the designer Jan Bones has written several books and designs patterns, many go to 4X
I’ve never heard of them! Looking forward to doing some investigating!
I like Kwik Sew 2529, long out of print. I’m a 1X, and the large fits. I have to shorten the front rise, lengthen the back (usual alterations for me), and I lengthened the legs.
http://www.oaktrees.org/blog/archives/19209
http://www.oaktrees.org/blog/archives/18001 <- I forgot to shorten the front, so the heads got cut off.
http://www.oaktrees.org/blog/archives/348
Thanks for the suggestion!!
This is a great knickers tutorial: http://verypurpleperson.com/2013/01/tutorial-sewing-panties/ I used it to trace RTWs and made the pants (UK) out of my old maternity nightwear – 3 pairs, and they’re all a bit rough and ready in places, but great fun and totally wearable. This was about my second or third sewing project, so they’re really do-able even for beginners. Looking forward to some tips for slightly more refined pants!
Yes! I actually linked to that in the post. Good idea to use your old maternity clothes – my problem with “use t-shirts” tutorials is that my tees are never big enough to cover my tush! 😉
Oh yes – sorry! So true about the T-shirts.
Wow, this is cool. I’m getting sick of RTW that twists after washing because it’s not cut on grain. GRRR! Hey, has anyone done tutorials on how to make fitting adjustments on panties? Not everyone has a big booty. Unfortunately, I have a big front porch instead. : P I have a nice old Kwiksew book “Beautiful Lingerie” that has it’s panty patterns that go up to a 47 hip that I picked up at Goodwill for a couple of bucks. If I didn’t have that I might try the Ottobre Woman’s panty downloads. https://www.etsy.com/listing/266201322/e-pattern-for-a-womens-panties-and
since they go up to size 24 us/ 52/eu
I also picked up an oop pattern,Kwik Sew 2529 that has some leg, because in the summer it may help with thigh chafing under dresses or skirts. I bet a Jalie pattern or any stretch short mentioned above would work to a similar end too.
LOL – “A big front porch!” I love it! I add extra rise in front to cover my belly, but i’ve never tried more than that. Let us know if you find a method that works!
A pantie pattern that fits up to a 70.5-inch hip?
Great Fit Pattern Co., 6670 Lingerie Collection: full slip, half-slip, camisole and pantie. OOP–but occasionally available on Etsy, Amazon, eBay, etc. Basic brief; however, with tutorials mentioned here, a design upon which to build. Ten sizes (S to 3X), generous measurements, 4 pieces. Not bad for a 90s indie company. Paper pattern only.
Sexy knickers for real women–’bout time!
That pattern sounds like a winner – everything in one! Thanks for the suggestion!
I made a pair this weekend from a this pattern. I have a 48″ hip and they pretty much fit right out of the package. Merckwaerdigh is the name. A Dutch patternmaker. The muslin fit well, not as high in the waist as I was hoping and quite ” cheeky”. Comfortable!
I was eyeing their beautiful bra kits just this morning, but I haven’t tried any of their pattern yet. Good to hear you were happy with the fit!
I was on the merckwaerdigh website yesterday and they have a nice little video tutorial on lining the crotch using the ” burrito” method. That leaves such nicely finish invisible stitching!
My favourite undie pattern is an Ohh Lulu one as well – my hips are much bigger than the biggest size but the XL still fit me! I also use the Jalie pattern, but I altered it to be high waisted (like you Gillian I like them just below the belly button). The Jalie ones have EXCELLENT bum coverage. The only problem is that the few pairs I made were with the recommended size for my measurements, and I think they’re too big
It’s hard to get the stretch factor just right on underwear sometimes – too loose or too tight and they show through pants more and are uncomfortable! Lately i’ve been wishing my TNT pattern came up a little higher in front… which may mean I’ve gained a bit of weight, but my clothes fit fin, so let’s pretend it’s the patterns fault?! 😉
Another vote for Scrundlewear by Stitch Upon A Time (although, I add 1″ at front rise). For longer pair (high waist and longer length) Christin Johnson Bodyshaper e816 is amazing (I even used it for swim shorts in swimsuit fabric). MakeBra has a nice brief with front shaping and free hipster pattern up to 46″ hip.
You are a fountain of underwear pattern wisdom! Thanks for all the great suggestions!
Ha! Something I’ve never been called before 🙂
Ha. I read this post and was like, why aren’t the Scrundies on here?! I’m glad someone else beat me to it.
I *wish* I had known about Scundies when I wrote this, just so I could type “Scrundies” as many times as possible! 😛 What a fabulous and bizarre name! Is there a story behind it?
I use a modified version of the seamwork pattern, I think it goes up to 54 or 56 in hip and runs really large (or is designed for a lesser stretch percentage than I prefer). I didn’t love the fit right out of the packet, but I suspect that would be the case for any pattern, and it was easy to get the fit right on in about two rounds of modifications. I think any pattern is just a starting point, undies are so easy to modify and customize!
I totally agree! It’s like the opposite of bra fitting – just slap some extra width or height on the pattern, and let stretchy fabric take care of the rest! 😉
http://www.craftstylish.com/item/47762/how-to-make-your-own-underwear here’s a tutorial for helping you draft a pair from rtw and so zo’s free pair (http://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.co.uk/p/free-patterns.html) go upto UK size 16 (US size 20?)
Great suggestions! (Though all the “make underwear form your old tshirts” posts make me laugh because my but is so much bigger than my top. My tees are never big enough to repurpose for knickers!)
Awesome! Been waiting for the knicker post! I want to make a longline pair that go up to my bra, otherwise there are too many lumps at the waistband! The only RTW ones are heavy support ones whereas I just fancy a pair that smooths out but doesn’t make me feel like a stuffed sausage!
I’d forgotten about the seamwork bikini bottom, that’ll do the trick, just need to increase them by a few inches!
Mine don’t go quite that high, but that’s the basic gist f what I like, too. Enough negative ease to smooth things out without giving me indigestion! 😉
Spot on! I like them high so I can tuck them under my bra band so they don’t even think about rolling down! Makes going for a wee a nuisance though 🙂
Yay! Thanks so much for this! I was the one who asked on the forum. XD XD
Happy to oblige! Do you see something that will work for you?
I’m going to try the Jalie pattern, but a few of them might work. 🙂
Jalie is a great choice. I love every pattern of theirs I’ve ever made!
I love these, from SUAT (stitch upon a time). Up to size 3x 53″ hip and also womens boxer brief up to hip 54″. Easy patterns, lots of options
http://stitchuponatime.com/product/scrundlewear-ladies-underwear-pdf-sewing-pattern-boyshorts-briefs-and-more-xs-xxxl/
(I am not affiliated with SUAT, just a happy customer)!
Those look like a great option!!! Thanks for mentioning them!
Woo! Big booty girls unite! Thanks for all these pattern suggestions! I have the Barrie brief pattern, but have had trouble getting the fabric choice correct… one too tight, one too stretchy. Still trying to figure out the best one.
Also, the Seamwork patterns came to mind as potentially useful for the curvy crowd. I haven’t tried them yet, but they go up to size 3XL. I haven’t tried them, so I can’t vouch for them, but there’s one panty and one high-waisted swimsuit bottom:
https://www.seamwork.com/catalog/geneva
https://www.seamwork.com/catalog/dakota
Ha – how did I forget about those? Thanks for the reminder!
Jalie pattern link doesn’t appear to be working, but I found it here: https://jalie.com/jalie3242-underwear-pdf-pattern-447
Thank you for catching that! I’ve fixed it now. 🙂