(Content note: Lots of pictures of my butt.)
Last summer I decided that I was going to finally have trousers that fit. I hope that if you come along with me as I recap the journey, you might learn something about fitting pants to your unique body (if it happens to be shaped a bit like mine), or at least get a laugh and a sigh of commiseration at the end.
There are a lot of reasons ready-to-wear trousers don’t fit me right. I have a protruding tummy, a swayback, and a big high round butt, which means a very short rise in the front and a very long rise in the back. RTW trousers invariably either threaten to show crack, or gouge me in the tummy, or sometimes somehow manage to do both at once. I’m also often plagued by either a camel toe or a wad of extra fabric in the crotch.
I got up the courage to try to get trousers to fit properly after reading a series of articles by Kathleen Fasanella about how and why RTW trousers tend to fit poorly on a lot of women of all sizes.
Seriously, if you are remotely interested in trousers fitting, go read those articles. (And then read everything else she ever wrote because she knows so much about fitting and construction and the garment industry plus she’s a great writer.)
According to Fasanella, it’s easier (and cheaper) to design trousers to fit wide (as opposed to thick/deep) bodies, because the pattern will be a shape that can be packed more tightly on the fabric. It so happens that I carry most of my weight in my tummy and butt, so besides being wide from side to side, I’m deep from front to back – exactly the shape that commercial trousers aren’t going to fit well at all.
I decided to use a HotPatterns pant to do my learning on, because they go up to my hip size (54″) (though my waist, 46″ last summer, is off the chart), and because I’d heard really good things about their L-shaped crotch curve.
I started with HotPatterns 1190, because it’s super-simple, plus I loved the idea of lounging about in the summer heat, looking elegantly rumpled in flowing linen palazzos.
Before I even did a muslin, I did a bit of tweaking to the HP pants just according to my measurements:
- shortened the front rise
- lengthened the back rise
- added room just at the front for my tummy
Here’s what happened with my first muslin:
Not too bad from the side – side seams are hanging nice and straight
Not quite so good
Oh myyy look at that wedgie
I seem to have solved the issues with the front and back rise with my pre-emptive alterations, but the fit is still far from ideal. Looking at the wrinkles, you can see:
- a (small) camel toe in front
- my inner thighs are stealing fabric from the outer thighs, creating those diagonal wrinkles hanging from mid-thigh to knee
- fabric is getting sucked into my butt crack and into my crotch
What’s going on here is, the pants are the correct circumference, and they would fit me perfectly if I were only wide from side to side, but I’m three-dimensional, and also quite deep from front to back. This pants pattern has a reasonable depth through the crotch for most people, but my shape is thicker/deeper than these trousers are meant for. So the front and back are in a fight for fabric, and the battleground is my crotch and inner thighs.
Over a few iterations, I added a bit more length to the horizontal part of the rear crotch curve, and scooped out the front of the crotch curve, like Fasanella describes in the articles I linked to. This makes the pants deeper back to front, and has the bonus effect of making the inner thighs a little wider too.
Really bad MS Paint drawing of my alteration
Here’s how my second pair of palazzos fit:
I really like how they hang in front
What’s going on here?!
I’m really happy with the front, but look at those wrinkles pulling towards my left butt cheek – and I thought I was standing square! This is how I found out my pelvis is crooked, with my left hip higher and a bit further back than my right.
If I was really ambitious, I might have worked more on adding to only the left side of the trousers and getting it really perfect, but instead I went on to explore other trouser styles since I had the basic shape relatively ok.
These corduroys are a frankenpattern with the legs of Hotpatterns 1112, the pockets from Hotpatterns 1036, and a yoke and cuffs that I drew myself. I’m really pleased with the fit on these. You can see a bit of a hollow over the right butt-cheek because of my asymmetrical hips, but other than that everything is hanging pretty smoothly.
Then I took my frankenpattern and drew several other styles to try: darts instead of a yoke; patch pockets; wider and narrower legs…
And then? The happy ending of this story would be, then I lived happily ever after in my assortment of well-fitting trousers.
What actually happened was, I recently developed some serious health problems and my doctor told me I had to lose weight or perish. I still have my beautiful pants patterns, but I don’t have the body I made the patterns for – and the body I’ve got will continue to change as I try to get to a weight that is healthier for me. But at least when my weight stabilizes, I’ll have some good ideas how to make a new pants block that fits me right!
This is the most helpful and understandable pants fitting article I have ever read. “So the front and back are in a fight for fabric, and the battleground is my crotch and inner thighs.” is exactly how I feel about any pants other than leggings or skinny jeans. Thank you!
Thank you for writing this – I am still getting up the courage to try making pants for myself. I am in the middle of some weight loss, and keep putting it off. Maybe a pair of pull-on pants would be doable, though. I have some of the same fitting issues that you do – thanks for the pointers!
I wish you the best in your weight loss for your health. You’ll be in my thoughts!
Thank you so much for this – it’s really got me thinking! All the best for your journey towards improved health.
I’m also a thick front-to-back shape so can totally relate to your fit challenges!!! From the pictures it appears you are definitely on the right track… that sideseam looked perfect!!! You didn’t mention,, I think but did you happen to measure your crotch length–the distance from front waist to back waist meaured through the crotch–as well as crotch depth?? I’m sure you have long since discoveed that total length (or width) or anything doesn’t tell the whole story… it’s If you ever have the opportunity to take a fit class with Lorraine Henry, take advantage of it!!! She is an excellent teacher and a master at putting the inches where they’re needed. (NAYY–but I made my best pants ever after learning from her!)
And congratulations on your progress toward getting healthier!!
Tricia. Losing weight is the second hardest thing to do. First being finding pants that fit. You have a handle on both and I really enjoyed your travails. Best of luck in your journey. Will keep you and this article in my thoughts for success.
Shalom
Thanks for this concise, informative and well-written article, which is additionally very clearly illustrated. Clarity in illustration is rare for me, as I have a visual impairment, so an EXTRA big thank-you!
Thank you Tricia! A very helpful article indeed – you have a lovely writing style.
Wishing you good health and more wonderful pants sewing.
Tricia, this is Andrea from the FB HP sewing group. You did a fabulous job fitting yourself. That’s not easy, no matter your fit challenges. What you learned will serve you well whenever you want/need new pants.
All the best in your journey toward better health.
Thank you all for your lovely and supportive comments!
Thank you! Educational and hilarious. I hope someday you will live happily ever after in an assortment of well-fitting trousers. In the meantime, best of luck hacking a fix to your health problem.
Great article, very instructive for me. I hate multiple muslins but if I can get a fit like this, it’s worth it.
always looking for the perfect fit of pants, your story was so informative. thank you and blessings to you!
Great article. I have a similar shape except my RTW pants have lots of room in the tummy area and hardly enough coverage for the booty 🙁 I am just working on the Jalie Eleanor pull on pant. Hopefully it works out. Thanks for the links.
Sigh! Isn’t life a hoot! Just when you get it- it throws you a curve ball. You made some great pants ? and will continue down the road to even more great pants. The nice thing about the HP pant pattern is that it is multisized. And they are a quick sew. Just make a new pair every time you go down a size. You still need something to wear even if you are loosing the weight the doctors suggested. Don’t stop, make pants for today’s body.
Such a helpful article! The pictures and your commentary together are very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
I wish you good health.
These are wonderful pants.
Start collecting fabric now for your new wardrobe of great fitting pants!
LOL I have been at SABLE for years now, but that won’t stop me from accumulating more yummy fabric!
Thank you for sharing your adventures in fitting pants. I liked your pants. The looked good on you. Hope your health improves soon.
Great job on the fit of the pants! Your explanations and pictures helped my understanding of pants a lot. I’ll definitely look for info from Kathleen Fasanella once I get back to sewing and decide to tackle pants.
Good luck with your health issues. Maybe once your weight loss slows you will be able to cut these pants down to fit the new you.
Excellent article. Love the pictures with the diagnostic and correction comments.
Thank you for sharing! I have been struggling with pants for over a year, and faced many of same challenges as I have very similar shape. This explanation helps me understand the failures, and which is necessary step to a better fitting pants.
Thanks so much for sharing your story. I learned a great deal from a short article! Hope that your health improves and you can enjoy many more pairs of well fitting pants.