I recently had the great pleasure of sewing sequin pants for Miss Pennsylvania Plus America 2014, Katy Halter. In addition to being a beauty queen, she’s been my best pal since age 12. Isn’t she amazing?!
Katy will be wearing the pants as her “elegant pantwear” look at Miss Plus America in Atlanta, GA. Today I’ll cover everything from showing off the finished pants, to how we worked to fit them remotely, to how I sewed the sequin fabric. It was quite an adventure!
The fun bit first – the finished pants!
On Sunday she took a trip to her professional seamstress to make sure all her outfits were ready to go for the pageant, and these photos are from that visit. The seamstress found that my pants didn’t need any additional alterations (patting myself on the back, there).You’ll see them paired here with the top Katy plans to wear. Doesn’t her bum look sensational?!
Part 1: Making the Muslin
- Laid out a big piece of paper on the floor and taped the pants to trace them. I tried as best I could to follow a tutorial from Cotton and Curls, but mine didn’t turn out nearly as neat.
- Used a piece of wax tracing paper and tracing wheel to get to the crotch seam that I wasn’t able to isolate.
- Measured the pattern piece and compared it to Katy’s measurements. Adjusted the width accordingly for each piece, smoothing all the lines with my pattern drafting rulers.
- Added seam allowances.
- Repeated for the back pattern piece.
Here’s what it looked like mid-way through.
Part 2: The Muslin Arrived
- Bagginess at the front crotch
- A bit too loose at the waist, way too loose at the hip
- Tight in the calves
Part 3: Fitting via Google Hangout
- Katy put the pants on inside-out. It’s much easier to fit this way.
- I directed her mom, Jessica, to pin and slash where appropriate until all the wrinkles and wobbly bits were worked out.
- Once we were happy with how it was looking, Jessica took a pen and drew a line on the front and back of everywhere she had pinned to remove excess fabric.
- For the calves where we needed more fabric, she split open the seam allowance. Jessica measured the distance up from the bottom of the leg that the split started, the length of the split, and how wide it needed to be (an extra 1/2″). I wrote that down.
Adjusting the Pattern
Constructing the Pants
At last!! To sewing the sequins! Now, the “correct” way to sew with sequins is to remove each one along the seam line, then hand stitch them back on after sewing to fill in any gaps. The way I did it was what my pattern making teacher would call “the rock ‘n roll” way.These sequins are 1/16th inch wide, and there was no way with the time crunch we had that I could remove them and hand stitch them back on. So I bravely cut them and serged them, very slowly, and crossed my fingers for the best. I only removed them at the invisible zip. Thankfully, this worked out just fine, although if the sequins had been any larger I don’t think it would have.
Whew! And there you have it! From start to finish, how I sewed a pair of sequin pants for Miss Pennsylvania Plus America.I hope you’ll head over to Katy’s Facebook page and wish her good luck!