Hello CSC! This post from Sabrina is part of our Sewing for My Curves series… enjoy!
My Figure
I used to think I was a plus-size hour glass, but when I started to sew for myself I realized that my hips size always matches a size bigger than my bust and waist, so I’m starting to assume I’m a “light” pear, as I have broad shoulders too. My bust size varies with my weight, so I consider them proportional to my body. My high waist is “thin,” and my hips, as I said, are veeery wide. My ankles and feet are slim though.
Measurements
• Full Bust: 43″
• Waist: 38″
• Hips: 48″
• Bra Size: 40C (UK size)
• Height: 5’2″ (oh yes, I’m short!)
In RTW, I normally fit in a 18-20 (UK) size for bottoms and dresses, and 16-XL for tops. Nowadays I only buy clothes when I travel, as it is almost impossible to find nice clothes in bigger sizes in Brazil, where I live.
Adjustments
I have to confess that I’m very amateur when it comes to adjustments. I wish I could take an exclusive course on this to make my life a bit easier. But I usually do:
• Shortening patterns. I need to shorten every single pattern I have as I am a short lady! Most of the time I have to shorten the garment again when hemming, which I’m terrible at.
• Necklines. I think and do just like Jenny: “a lower neckline looks much better on me.” I use a French curve ruler to draw a new line on most of my dresses’ necklines or I completely change it to a V-neck.
• Bust Darts. I’m starting to notice that my bust darts fall a little bit low. So for my next projects I’ll try to raise them a little bit so they will sit more on the middle of my bust. If it works, it might become a must- do adjustment for me.
My favorite types of patterns:
I live in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, and unfortunately we don’t get the Big 4 patterns here (if you know where I can find them here, pleeease let me know!). The Brazilian mail doesn’t always work, and the last time I bought a pattern online it took 5 weeks to arrive, and when it did they charged me double in taxes what I’d paid! The magazines available here rarely offer plus size patterns and the ones I’ve tried haven’t worked well for me. I consider myself a beginner/intermediate sewer, and so I don’t feel confident enough to grade patterns yet.
My life changed when I discovered Colette Patterns and, later, the Curvy Sewing Collective. An entire world of indie pattern makers and their PDF files to conquer in a click!! So, I would say that my favourite pattern types are the ones available in my size and for download online!! Ha ha!
But seriously, in terms of style, I consider myself a dress/skirt girl, much because I’m still very scared of sewing pants or shorts (the last pair ended up in the pyjama drawer), but also because I live in a tropical, always summer city. I look for patterns that are simple to sew and that will make me feel comfortable (free belly!). Preferably the pattern will have some hacking potential. Oh, and I love the ones that teach me new techniques (Colette is a master of that)!
Curves Highlighter
I just love patterns that highlight my curves, which means nice cleavage, accented waist, and a full skirt. The Colette Myrtle dress is a hit in my wardrobe. I’ve already made it in woven and knit, and learned a lot through the process. Also the Simplicity 1375 dress meets all my requirements and is super easy to sew. It comes with five different views! I still need to add a wrap dress to my closet, and I really want to try Cashmerette’s Appleton.
Pullover Dresses
The best solution to survive the morning rush to work is a pullover dress. It allows you to go through the day comfortably and still feel tidy. I lost count of how many Fancy Tiger Crafts Fen dresses I’ve made. I like the fact that, depending on the fabric I use, it can become a completely different dress. I also like that I can add features to it, such as a peter pan collar or a long sleeve. Two new acquisitions that I’m sure will become a habitué in my closet are the Colette Seamwork Kenedy Dress and Style Arc Mila Designer Dress, which I have already hacked into a shirt dress in a very artistic fabric as you can see:
Fancy Tiger Crafts Fen, Seamwork Kenedy
Style Arc Mila Designer Dress
Skirts
I have to say I haven’t been too successful in finding PDF skirt patterns that I like in my size. I fall in love with the patterns with some different details where I can play with prints, only to find out they’re not available for me. But the ones I do manage to get, I really like, and I’ve repeated them more than once. They are Sewaholic Rae skirt, a lovely circle skirt with a comfortable elastic waist, and Liesl and Co. City Stroll Wrap Skirt, which changes completely depending on the type of fabric you use and also is adaptable to the waist.
Sewaholic Rae Skirt, Liesl and Co. City Stroll Wrap Skirt
Liesl and Co. City Stroll Wrap Skirt
So, that’s me! I look forward to hearing your suggestions of patterns that you think would suit me, if you have any!
Hello Brazil – and Sabrina, of course!
I am shorter than you (barely 5ft) with larger hip and bust measurements, and a similar waist measurement.
For the past few years I’ve been using Lekala semi-customised downloadable patterns almost exclusively – most of which give me an acceptable fit ‘straight off the paper’ and which are thus easy to tweak to a perfect fit. They are cheap and can be ordered in large formats for printing as well as A4 – so no tedious taping necessary! Their disadvantage for newer sewers is that the instructions are little more than an order of construction – but a couple of good reference books will see you over that obstacle.
They have lots of skirt patterns, and I have made many of them with excellent results. Their free fitted skirt 5088 gave me the best-fitting straight skirt I had had for years.
I also like La Mia Boutique , an Italian pattern magazine of which I find the plus-size editions – – Taglie Forti – to be generally more stylish than Burda Plus, and for some reason easier to shorten more proportionally.
Thank you fat_lady! I’lol sure have a look at it ; )
Love your wardrobe! As someone also with big hips and a smaller waist, I was always altering skirt patterns. Found the book Sew What! Skirts by Francesca DenHartog to be a great book to help you learn how to draft skirts in lots of styles, if you’re interested in stretching yourself. Keep up the nice work!
Thank you Ang! I’ll sure look for it ; )
Hey, we are almost body twins! Same height, and almost exactly the same measurements. Now I’m going to go look through your IG for sewing inspiration!
Yes Gillian! Let’s exchange inspirations!
I love all the colours you’ve chosen. They really suit you.
Regarding on-line purchasing..
Jalie patterns has downloadable patterns.
sewingpatterns.com has quite a few brands available for download as well.
sewingpatternreview carries quite a few brands as well.
If you google ‘Leko Ru’, you should get a Russian pattern company that generates a pattern for you to print off. They are not expensive, and several bloggers have talked about their experiences with the company. I believe the ladies from SunnyGalStudios and Fehr Trade blogs have both given the company a try.
Hi Mary, thank you so much for so many tips! They are all written down, and I’m so excited to to go look for new possibilities ; )
Your wardrobe looks great…I especially like the city skirt and the dress with the black/ black and white print. Those are both patterns I would like to try….I also change many necklines to a V as that seems most comfortable and flattering for me. Good luck on finding more pattern choices in your area.
Thank you Walker, I appreciate it! 🙂
I enjoyed your article and your choice of dresses. The Style Arc’s especially looked lovely on you. I enjoyed reading other comments too. It’s nice to find out where everyone is shopping for patterns. I really liked your fabric choices. Maybe Brazil is a good place to find those lovely prints! Is there an on- line shop you like?. I like Fabric Fairy for their cotton lycra/spandex knit prints in medium weight and they have nice patterns too.
It is, isn’t it Bonnie? I’m so happy with all the positive and helpful comments, it is so nice to colaborate with each other… The colourful printed fabrics are from http://www.tecidaria.com.br, They sell online, but only from 3m on (I think), but might be worth a look ; )
I love your outfits! If you’ve had success with Colette, maybe try their Zinnia skirt? I feel like I always praise this skirt, but it’s so nice and definitely fits your full skirt/defined waist desire!
Thank you Jessica! I always fancy the Zinnia skirt, but I’m scared it’s might be too advanced for my sewing. I’ll give it a try ; )
Congratulations on your beautiful clothes. We are of the same height and general figure type, (differing by just a couple of sizes) so this was very interesting to me. I don’t do pdf’s though I’m tempted by http://www.sbccpatterns.com/. Some separates you might like to look into.
Thank you Vibeke! I’ll check it out! Let’s exchange some inspirations through IG!! ; )
You’ve done remarkably well considering the limited access to patterns that you have had. I struggle more with finding nice fabrics locally. Where do you get your fabrics from?
Thank you so much Diana! The printed ones I usually get from http://www.tecidaria.com.br, They accept online orders, I’m just not sure if it’s in Brazil only :/ But I’m always looking for new things wherever I travel, specially street fairs. I found an amazing one in Berlin!
What great fabrics. Not sure what I’d do w 5m of something, but I loved all their prints. Thanks for sharing. abbey
Outstanding wardrobe! Every piece is perfect for you.
Oh, Thank you so much Briar! I really appreciate it!
I love your style. So pretty and colourful. 🙂
If you’re looking for PDF-patterns for skirts, you could try Lovenotions Sybil Illusion Skirt Collection: http://www.lovenotions.com/product/sybil-illusion-skirt-collection-xs-xxxl – it comes up to a 51.5″ hip. I haven’t tried the skirt, but have tried a few other patterns from that company, and they work quite well for me (I have a few inches on you, but generally the same proportions). They also come with good instructions on how to alter the pattern to fit your body.
Thank you so much Ayo! I’ll definitely check it out! Really appreciate it! ; )
You — and your clothes — are beautiful! Thanks for the inspiring post. ?
Thank you Susan for your kind words! It makes me really happy to know you were inspired by it. This entire website is THE place for inspiration. Isn’t it?! <3
You’re a great inspiration. I live in Eastern Oklahoma with limited access, not as limited as you, but I have plans to use more PDF patterns. Loved your style and creativity using the same pattern with different fabrics.
Thank you so much kmfetty! I really appreciate your words! ; )
Hi, Sabrina, I loved you post. I live in Brazil, too. In Brasília. O like Burda Style patterns. Every month they havê a Plus Size section. It works for me. I also buy PDF patterns, and books on Amazon and Google Play. They also come with PDF files. The Great British Sewing Bee books are a good starting point.
Oi Karina!! Muito obrigada! I’ve tried the Brazilian Burda, but it didn’t work for me 🙁 I really wanted the first book from GBSB, but their pattern sizes go only up to 16. Do you know the site thefoldline.com? They have good reviews on the books and patterns too. Let’s exchange some inspiration on IG!
I agree with everyone else that you have found patterns that look fabulous on you – your skirts especially are perfect. Now I know why PDF downloadable patterns are so popular 🙂 I always considered them just too much effort but if I didn’t have reliable mail delivery I’d love them too.
Thank you PsychicsewerKathleen!!! they are the best, I wish more, and more people can offer it!
Wow, you’re doing a fantastic job! I love the Mila dress too, I’ve made two so far, they are so comfy.
I hope you’re enjoying the Olympics!
Thank you Lorry!!! The Olympics are beautiful! I even wore my Mila dress to a related event. It’s the best, such a style and so comfy right?! ; )
You are an inspiration, you may not have access to many patterns but you are doing a great job with the ones you have. Looks like you have some great fabrics available. Is there a pattern for white top that you wear with the city stroll wrap skirt?
Thank you for your kind words Elizabeth! The pattern of the top with the very coloured skirt is from thefoldline.com, and has a very nice back detail. It’s recommended for cotton, but I made it with knit fabric and it worked! And best of all, you get it for free when you sign in to the site ; )
I actually meant the white top that went with the blue skirt but thank you anyway, thefoldline.com. is a great site. happy sewing!
Hello. I just thought I’d suggest sewing patterns.com which is where I get big 4 patterns. I live in Nigeria and we don’t have pattern stores. I just purchase the PDF format for 2-3 dollars. Indie patterns are too expensive for me.
Great suggestion Kaine! I’ll sure check it out. Thank you very much!
Thanks for sharing! lekala.co has a ton of PDF patterns that are great!
Thank you EB! I’ll have a look at it for sure ; )
You are certainly succeeding in making yourself a wonderful wardrobe under difficult circumstances. The lines of the black Mila shift are particularly flattering. Likewise, I am very short, too, so your photos are a great inspiration.
Thank you for your kind words Susan! They are a great inspiration for me!
Hi Sabrina, I have an inch or two extra on your measurements and I too used to think I had an hourglass figure until I started sewing and measuring. That old tape measure can feel pretty harsh at first but when clothes start fitting instead of making do it’s a real thrill! You’re a pretty girl with a gorgeous wardrobe- you have a great style and the colours you wear must look perfect in the Rio sunshine (it’s a little different here in the east of England lol). The limits of what patterns you could buy must’ve been frustrating but PDF patterns have been a revelation to me as I can practice FBA and various hacks without chopping into a brought pattern. There are so many great websites and videos out there for everything from hemming trousers to grading between sizes and more beside. I can’t get out to workshops so rely on online learning. CSC, Collette and many others have been a real help. I tend to hit Google with a direct question and go from there but it takes time. I’ve not made enough clothes to offer ideas and as for tee shirts I make my own pattern tracing from a shop brought one i really like. I love looking at pretty skirts and dresses but I’m much more a tee shirt and jeans/ casual trousers kinda girl, practicality and all. Will have to make a dress next year for a wedding so I’m always looking for inspiration. Thank you for sharing your story and as the plus size PDF pattern range grows I’m sure you’ll find more patterns to make into gorgeous garments 🙂
Thank you Whellybad, I really appreciate your words! I need to get the courage to go further with alterations. It’s about time I try some grading ; )
You definitely have found patterns that look great on you! Congratulations…feel proud!
It hasn’t been easy, bu I’m glad you like it Judy! Thank you!
Thanks for the great post, Sabrina! I adore your Mila dresses and that colorful Myrtle, too! Looking beautiful!
Thank you Meg, for he space, and for such a kind invitation. I’m absolutely thrilled by all the comments!! It makes my love for sewing just grow more and more, knowing there are so many great people on this.I’m all smiles!!! <3
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I am almost exactly your measurements (including lack of height 🙂 and just getting back into sewing for “me”. You’ve given me great inspiration about what might look good on me. So thank you!
Quick question – any favorite T’s/tops? I struggle some with those and would love some suggestions.
Thx again!
Thank you Susan Lindeman! Please share your makes too so we can exchange inspirations!! I’m not the greatest with tops, but I love the sailor top from thefoldline.com, and the one hour top from fancyigercrafts.com (which takes me more than 1 hour since I don’t have a serge). ; )
Congrats for determination — working against a few odds. 1st, I agree with your choice to alter necklines. My favs were a more V shape. Pix can’t give the full answer on comfort and fit but you seem to favor colors etc, so “right” for Rio. I thought the dress with the black skirt and black V going up into the bodice was esp. flattering — gave height and angle. I LOVE that wrap skirt; I’ll bet you’d give yourself some height wearing a less contrasting top. If access to patterns is a problem, I’d pick a few basics, get the fit just right and then learn to redraw/change details. PS There are lots of videos on the internet with instructions. You’re on the right path to becoming an advanced intermediate – looking good!
Thank you for your words and suggestions Susan! I really need to raise my game when it comes o alterations ; )
You could try Etsy. They carry StyleARC’s pdf patterns.
Yes! hey are great!! Thank you Corina!