As our final pattern for the #CurvyYearofSewing Extras and Accessories Theme, we wanted to share a pattern option to answer a question that is often asked in the CSC Facebook group: What do you wear under skirts or dresses? Whether its to prevent chub rub (yes!), preserve modesty, or help when chasing kids around, it seems like a lot of us are looking for some sort of shorts option to wear under our dresses. Well, Tanya and Megan are both happy to recommend the Seamwork Kaye shorts as a great option! We both tried them out in different fabric options, so we have lots of information to share.
This pattern has both a bralette and shorts option.
The shorts feature:
- A fairly inclusive size range: 25″/36 cm – 46″/117 cm waist and 35″/89 cm – 58″/147 cm hip
- Seamwork uses a different draft for plus sizes (16-26) which will hopefully result in a better fit
- Negative ease designed for knits with at least 25% stretch
- Lots of opportunity for pattern hacking and customization!
Megan
- Measurements: Bust –45″/114cm, Bra Size – 40C, Waist – 42″/104cm, Hips – 53″/130cm, Height – 5’7″/170cm
- Body Shape: Pear
- Pattern size used: I used the 2X, which is the size I measure into.
- Alterations: For my first version (above in pink), I mostly sewed the shorts as drafted. When it came to the waistband, I inserted it like I would a neckband, stretching it as I sewed. I would say its 4 or so inches shorter than drafted, I don’t think they would have stayed up with the waistband as drafted. Instead of folding and hemming as suggested in the pattern directions, I added fold over elastic to the hem to help keep them in place throughout the day. As you can see in the photos of the pink version, I had some crotch length issues. For the second version (below in purple) I added one inch the back rise and removed one inch from the front rise.
- Fabric: The pink fabric is an athletic knit from Joann Fabrics, which has about 25-50% stretch. I highly recommend this fabric if you want to use this pattern for chub rub prevention, its very lightweight, quick dry, and shouldn’t cause too much static cling. The purple fabric is rayon spandex blend with quite a bit more stretch, I intend to use these for loungewear around the house, so I used a more comfortable fabric.
- Fit: Overall, the fit on me is fine. If I was going to wear these alone, not just under something, I might nit-pick the crotch curves but in this case, I’m just going to let it go! I will say that I originally thought the back and front pieces were swapped because the front crotch curve is much longer than the back. I don’t know if it was intentional or not, but this makes the inseam and crotch seam sit a little further back on my body, which should be good for minimizing chaffing. After I adjusted the rise as described above, I am pretty happy with the fit.
- Changes for future versions: I have already altered the back crotch curve for future versions. I scooped it out a bit more and added more length near the crotch point. I always need more room for the booty. There will be many more versions of this pattern! And, as you can see below, I tried out the bralette too (review coming this week on my blog).
Tanya
Measurements: Bust – 49″, Waist – 43″, Hip – 54″
Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
Pattern Size Used: XL/2X
Alterations: I added 1″ of leg length to the lengthen/shorten line for my last versions. I also did not hem them and sewed on stretch lace instead which also helped to elongate the leg. I needed elastic in the jersey knit waistbands.
Left to right: rayon jersey/double knit, cotton jersey/elastic, bamboo jersey/elastic, rayon jersey/elastic, rayon jersey/double knit
Fabric: I used rayon, cotton and bamboo jersey knits. Two of them (the black pairs) have a heavy-ish cotton double knit waistband. All of these fabrics were remnants from my stash.
Fit: For my first version (not shown) I sewed a 2X in rayon jersey following the directions and they literally fell down off me while I was walking. With my second version of cotton jersey, I sized down and added elastic to the waistband and they fit great. For my third/fourth versions, I made them out of rayon jersey and used double knit for the waistband and I didn’t need the elastic to hold them up. For my fifth version (the ivory shorts with lime green stretch lace), I sized down as with all of the others and they are a bit more slim fitting as that particular rayon jersey has less stretch than my other fabrics. They are wearable, but it seems like for me, if I’m using a fabric with less stretch, than I will cut out my regular size. I love the fit with my alterations and they stay up at my waist and down on my legs with the stretch lace. I literally walked miles in my shortlettes in heat and humidity and I was comfortable and chafe-free.
Changes for Future Versions: I’m going to add another 1/2″-1″ to the length on future pairs. I’d also like to try some foldover elastic on the leg instead of stretch lace and see how I like that. I’d also like to experiment with a crotch gusset and see how that works.
Left: rayon jersey with double knit waistband and added 1″ length. Right: bamboo jersey with elastic inserted in the waistband and length as drafted.
Thoughts: I love how quick and easy these are to make and they are certainly a life saver in the heat to prevent chafing. I used remnant fabrics from my stash (and notions — the stretch lace and elastics were all in my stash, too) and I didn’t buy fabric specifically for these. My favorite combo for future versions would be bamboo jersey with a ponte/double knit waistband, although I would also like to try cotton modal and the athletic knit that Megan used for hers. I’d recommend sewing your first pair in your size according to the measurement chart. After that, experiment with how you want them to fit and how much stretch your fabrics have to find out how to make this pattern work for you.
Before I made these shortlettes [as I’m calling them], I used other methods to deal with chafing and I have to say that I prefer wearing these. I can confidently walk around comfortably in heat and humidity in my dresses and along with no “chub rub”, I also don’t worry at all if my skirt flies up as I’m covered with these shorts. I’ll probably make 10 more. Well… maybe not 10 more as I already have 5 pairs, but perhaps 5 more in neutral/nude colors. 🙂
In this current time, huge amount of women face some different type of a problem to their waistline. I am very happy to say after reading your article I know something new type of informative information about how to improve women all body line. This is very informative and educational article for me and also some women who have some different type of waistline problem. Thanks for everything.
It always make me laugh when people say their pants (or shortlettes) fell OFF rather than down. It’s just such a hilarious mental image.
Thanks for the review! This is a smart idea, & a great way to use scraps!
Just wondering if they ride up on your thighs when walking. I purchased two pair from a retail store because they were inexpensive compared to what it would cost to sew them myself. However, they proved to be uncomfortable when walking by riding up on my thighs. Just wondering what fabrics you all used that minimized the riding up problem.
Mary- I used the fold over elastic on the hem and that keeps them from riding up.
There are a few solutions for ride-up.
1) Use a self-fabric band on the leg hem like on the Jalie Cora shorts.
2) Sew gripper elastic on the inside of the hem like real bike shorts (zig zag stitch to right side of shorts, flip, zig zag down on wrong side). It has silicone that keeps the edge of the leg from moving up. Works very well, but the gripper elastic does add a little bulk.
3) Consider if the leg should be a little snugger fit.
4) Make sure to use a fabric that does not “grow” with heat and wear.
This is a nice article for a problem that most of us face in the summer. I’d also like to suggest patterns that have a crotch gusset rather than a standard seam. Jalie makes some, but I’m sure there are others. I find that the gusset is more comfortable, especially for all day wear.
I want to make something similar for underwear, to wear without panties. Any thoughts on how the seams will feel? Might have to put the seams on the outside?
I am thinking about trying to draft in a gusset for this very reason, but haven’t gotten around to it yet. Seams on the outside seems like a great solution!
If you only wear them as unders, may I suggest the easiest gusset is a strip added between the two leg pieces so it runs from front waist to back waist? I find this so much more comfy as it sits flat against my nethers. If you’re bootilicious you can widen the gusset at the back too!
That’s a great idea!! I may give it a try.
My problem is that the skin in my groin area is very sensitive to elastics so I have issues with ‘normal’ panties. Boy short panties are a great idea but they are too short. I have been wondering if hacking my leggings pattern into ‘long’ shorts might be the answer for me but don’t know how to go about adding a gusset lining to them. I can’t get my head around how I would do it.
The 5 out of 4 Ninjas come in multiple lengths (2″, 5″, 7″ all the way down to ankle length) and have a gusset included. I’d recommend taking a look at those to see if they meet your needs.
Thank you so much for reaching out to try to help me, Paulette. I just had a look at the 5oo4 Ninjas and they look really good – fantastic size range etc. I also took a look at her video presentation on how to insert the gusset which is really helpful. What I have to do now is try to get my head around how to double the gusset while enclosing the seams – I think the seams would/?could be a bit uncomfortable in the area of the gusset without wearing ‘normal’ panties as well. I think I will purchase the pattern anyway, and maybe their Facebook Group might be able to help me. If you or anyone else here have any ideas I would be so grateful if you would share them. Thanks again for your help Paulette, I really appreciate it. Hugs from Vicki ‘Down Under’.
So glad I could help! I hope it works out for you!
Hugs from Paulette in LA 🙂
I do just that, with an OOP Jalie pattern that has a wide gusset instead of the usual inseams. Very comfortable. It looks like Jalie Clara has a triangle gusset, which I am familiar with from the Cora shorts. It’s a small thing, but it does add comfort. You could line the gusset if you wanted to. I recommend a very stretchy wicking fabric for the underwear shorts, if you can find it. It’s also worthwhile to make all the personal fit adjustments even with this stretchy garment – it will add comfort and prevent those odd pulling areas that sometimes happen and minimize show-through for fitted skirts, etc.
I love these! This was just the inspiration I have needed to tackle making my own. Up to now I have made do with buying Old Navy leggings on sale and cutting them off at the desired length. I love seeing the pretty options for making my own. Now I just need to find stretch lace….
Great tips and tricks! The older I get, the less I’m inclined to be the adventuresome one. So glad you ladies blazed a path for the meek ones like me!
Glad you enjoyed the post, Kathryn!
These are beautiful!! I love the colors, laces and fabric! Wonderful post!
I also just made these to tackle the dreaded chub rub! I wanted to compare them to the 5oo4 Ninjas and Helen’s Closet Avery hacked by cutting them short. I will say these performed the worst because I made them exactly as drafted: without waist elastic—they just fall right off! WITH elastic I’m sure they’ll be perfect. They’re a little shorter than the 7” Ninjas, which is just right for my purposes.
I have a blog post brewing about this experiment but I will say that the Avery shortlettes were the best because of the high waist option.
I’ll look forward to reading that, Paulette! I was thinking about shortening my Avery leggings but I didn’t want that seam around the hips to be visible under dresses. Have you had a problem with that?
Sorry for the delay, Megan. I wanted to wear it under dresses to test this before answering! Neither dress I wore was very fitted so there were no lines to worry about. My issue was that the waistband (I chose the high version, so I could fold down like a yoga band if I wanted) would roll down by the end of the day. However I didn’t add elastic to it, so that’s probably way. I will say that the Ninjas were the more comfortable pattern, probably because the stretch factor was spot on for those and a little lower than required for the Avery.
Thanks for all the info, Paulette! Thats good to know. I have som Avery leggings that stay up really well, but they do have elastic in the waistband so I’m sure that help. It is hard to find that 75% stretch for the Averys!