In honor of the CSC’s Shirtmaking Month, I’ve put together a Same Pattern, Different Bodies post for the Grainline Studios Archer Button Up Shirt, darling of the indie sewing pattern world and seemingly everybody’s favorite relaxed fit “boyfriend”shirt.
The Archer pattern is for a dartless, loose-fitting button up shirt, goes up to a size 18 (B: 44″, W: 37″, H: 47″), which is not the most expansive size range. However, several women who count themselves amongst the curvy have made it, so I thought it was worth a look to compare how they’ve tweaked the pattern to work for them!
Manju is an Archer-making machine. She has made the pattern six (!) times in a variety of fabrics, from linen to flannel to denim.
For her Archers, she started with a size 18 and the only change she’s made has been to shorten the sleeves by 3.5″. She says that she has considered narrowing the sleeves, too.
Mary has made the Archer twice, once in a sunny yellow and once in perky polka dots. She kicked off her Archer adventure with a sleeveless yellow version, to which she added a dart. She also sewed it with wider seam allowances than called for.
For her second Archer, Mary made a lovely cotton polka dot version in a size 16, with a 4″ FBA (adding a bust dart) and a 1/2″ narrow shoulder adjustment. She found the sleeves to be extremely long and wide (3″ too long and 4″ too wide at the cuff). If she makes the Archer again, she would shorten and narrow the sleeves and add a tower placket.
Kate has made both an Archer shirt and an Archer dress. For her Archers, made from cotton lawn, she started with a size 14 and did an 1.5″ FBA that added a bust dart. She also did a full bicep adjustment, shortened the sleeves, and narrowed the cuff. For her dress hack, Kate lengthened the pattern by 8-9″ and made the bodice slightly more A-line. Kate says she has plans to make more Archers and will continue to perfect the sleeve fit by altering the length and tightness of the cuff slightly.
Shams made a very cool, asymmetrical plaid Archer, inspired by a Burberry shirt she saw. Her Archer, made from a large scale plaid taffeta, is a size 8 with a darted FBA to add width and length. She also 1/2″ removed from the shoulders.
For my first version, made from double gauze, I made a straight size 14 and found the hips to be a little bit snug and the sleeves quite long and wide.
For my second version, in thick flannel, I went with a 14 bust/shoulder, graded to 16 at the hip. I narrowed the sleeves from a size 14 at the shoulder to a size 10 at the wrist and cuff. I also shortened them by 3″. I finished them hem with bias tape because the flannel was too thick to double turn on the curved hem. If I make the Archer again, I may lengthen the body ever so slightly because, looking at the photos, I am finding it a little bit short on me.