Size range (with measurements): XXS – 5XL (Bust sizes 30 – 54, the 5XL for reference would be a size 3XL in target’s plus size brand Ava & Viv)
What size did you make? I made the size 3XL
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
- Bust 47′′, waist 39′′-41”, hip 48′′, RTW size 16/18 or XXL
- Body Shape: Celloish
- Height: 5’7′′
- Bra size: 38F
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
I tried to not alter the pattern much, I added the usual lengthening adjustment for my long waist as I have yet to sew a top as drafted that’s long enough for me.
What fabric did you use?
I used a quilting cotton I got from my local independent fabric store. While I’m usually past the “sew everything in cute novelty quilt prints” phase of my sewing, this pattern recommended it for a “crisper more structured version”. I also already had it in my stash so I didn’t have to buy anything new for the construction. I did put some really pretty vintage lucite buttons on it from the 1950’s. I picked them up at a flea market in NYC last November. I tried to be clever with the pattern placement and flip everything under the yoke, but I feel like it doesn’t look intentional, and just like I didn’t understand how to lay my pattern pieces. I’ll live, but lesson learned.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The construction process was simple and the instructions made sense. I think they are geared towards beginners as there was a lot of handholding. The written instructions were a bit overkill for me. I also wish I hadn’t printed them out as they took up a lot of paper, and I found myself not referencing them much. When I did reference them, I kind of had to dig much more than I normally do if I was just trying to reference one or two steps. That being said I don’t think I can ding off any points for the instructions being too descriptive, but it wasn’t my preferred option- I like things much more concise and to the point.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
It’s alright out of the envelope, but there are some fit issues I would change should I make it again. It did fit my apple/cello shape much better than I thought it would.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
If I was to make this top again I would make a lot of changes to it. The first being not to use a quilting cotton. The drape just isn’t right. If I wanted something crisp I would use a cotton shirting or sateen.
I would also address the fitting issues. I would add more length than I already added so the shirt hit just a bit lower. I need a swayback adjustment since the gathering on the back yoke isn’t laying quite right with the small of my back. I would a bit more room around the waist for when I sit as well. From the finished garment measurements, I assumed I wouldn’t need much more wearing ease, but I do. The sleeves are also very tight on my bicep, which is something I don’t normally have any issue with. You can see the strain on the sleeve when I put my hands up on my hip. The sleeves in the product photos appear much looser than what I sewed. I have a fairly standard bicep size, so I would guess that a lot of plus size women are going to need a full bicep adjustment. It fit fairly well in the bust, but the gathers to the front yoke seem fairly forgiving.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
This is definitely a pattern I would say you have to toile first. Fabric will also make a huge difference in the first. Stick to things with good drape. Be mindful of the sleeves- I never need a full bicep adjustment and I could have used one here.
- Size Range (1-5): 3 – The sizing goes up to about a women’s retail size 3XL or a size 24. So it really doesn’t venture that far into plus sizes.
- Instructions (1-5): 5 – Very explanative, if not a bit overkill. Would recommend not printing them as they take up a ton of paper.
- Construction Process (1-5): 5 – Came together well, no issues with the construction.
- Final Fit (1-5): 3 – I don’t think these are drafted with plus size bodies in mind. To get the correct fit I would need to lengthen more, do a swayback adjustment, add ease in the waist while for anytime I wasn’t standing, and do a full bicep adjustment.
- Overall Rating (1-5) + Explanation: 4 using an average of all my scores.