Are you gearing up for fall sewing yet (if you’re in the Northern Hemisphere)? Even if you’re not, the pattern companies certainly are. As we wrap up the month of August, we’ve got one of the more robust and interesting collections of new releases in a while.
Usually, I give Burda a lot of grief for their plus collections–which tend to be low on details and high on the shapeless sack factor. Honestly, usually I find them so boring that I don’t even bother including them in this roundup. However, I also like to give credit where credit is due, and IMO, it’s definitely due for their August collection, which I love.
Biker or moto jackets have been pretty ubiquitous for a while now. Burda has featured a ton of them in their misses’ patterns in the past few years, but the “plus” version of this staple has been a lot more rare. The August issue has one, though, and I think it’s just glorious with all of its beautiful seaming and topstitching.
Skirts don’t often grab my attention, but with its asymmetrical zipper and godet-behind-the-zipper that make this one a little more modest, my attention has been grabbed.
Yes, it’s sort of a simple shift dress, but it’s got a waist seam and two sets of darts for shaping. And I think that decorative zipper just takes things up a notch. The zipper is also functional and can help open up the neckline of this dress.
I’m going to be honest–I almost didn’t include this pattern because its size range isn’t particularly inclusive (only going up to a 44″/112cm bust) and I usually try to focus on patterns with a bit more curve-friendly sizing. However, my Instagram has been full of tester versions of this blouse and dress for the past few days, and it’s looked really cute on everyone. Overall, I think that the style works on a lot of different figures, and it would be a simple enough pattern to FBA or grade up.
For fans of a minimalist aesthetic, Grainline Studio has a new release–the Hadley Top. The Hadley is designed for drapey wovens (e.g. cotton lawn, rayon challis), has two neckline options, and an option for a long-sleeved or sleeveless top, and an optional back neckline pleat.
For some of us, finding a tee pattern with our own perfect fit can be difficult. On one hand, many of us don’t like tees that cling to our midsections; on the other hand, we don’t want a tee that’s baggy all over just to skim over lumps and bumps or a larger tummy. HotPatterns’ new Tailored Tee takes these issues into account. It’s drafted with panel seams and a relaxed but structured fit so as to comfortably skim curves without being too baggy. This tee also includes three different neckline and three different sleeve options.
I love shirtdresses. You all know that. So duh, it’s kind of a no-brainer that I like the new Chai dress from Itch to Stitch. Like most of their woven patterns, it’s got cup sizes up to a DD-cup, and it also includes an option for a cute top. I am a fan of dress/shirt patterns that have a narrow waistband like this–I feel like they give me an illusion of a waist when I’m really an apple when viewed from the side.
It seems like nearly every pattern company has a shift top/dress in their catalogue. With Love Notions version, you get both top and dress views, multiple sleeve options, and the option of adding an elastic waist/casing.
Simplicity has some fun offerings, particularly in the costume and retro area for their Fall collection. We also get the first new Ashley Nell Tipton patterns since her line debuted last spring.
A little utilitarian, perhaps, but I see lots of requests for slip and petticoat patterns. This vintage reissue should make it a lot easier to sew your own version of these garments for wear under vintage-style or just full-skirted skirts and dresses.
The approach of fall means new coat patterns are on their way. Toggle coats have been popular in recent yeas, but their boxy shape isn’t always the most flattering on a curvy figure. This new offering from Simplicity remedies that issue by having shoulder princess seams in front. And it even has a hood! (I always want my coats to have hoods.)
Ashley Nell Tipton got a bit away from the bodycon style of her first Simplicity collection by including a plus size trench coat pattern in this fall’s offerings. Personally, I’m not crazy about the idea of big flaps or a large collar on my giant boobs, but it can be difficult to find a trench pattern that extends well into plus sizes. The pink one, in particular, looks cute on the model, IMO.
Looking to dress up as a badass for Halloween or for cosplay? You now have the option of a Jyn Erso (from Rogue One) or Zoe Washburne (Firefly, Serenity) costume. Of course, these aren’t officially licensed or labeled as such, but that’s what they clearly are supposed to be.
So, um, StyleArc released a bunch of new patterns this month, but I felt like we’d seen most of them (or something very similar) before. That happens sometimes with StyleArc, and I guess it’s to be expected when you’re as prolific at releasing new patterns as they are.
StyleArc offered two new “paperbag waist” pant patterns this month, one of which is the Thea pant (the other being the Thea Pant, which is similar to the Tully, but with a wider leg). Being short, I personally tend to prefer a slimmer legged pant, so that’s why I’m showing the Thea over the Tully. Both pants have similar details, although I like the way the played with the stripes on the cuff in the design drawing for the Thea. This is a cute pant, although not something I would buy/make since I always wear my shirts tucked out.
One of the “freebie” pattern options for this month is also one of the more interesting new releases from StyleArc, IMO. The Abigail knit top looks like a basic v-neck knit top, but the choker detail around the neck is pretty unique–I don’t recall having seen it elsewhere before. Given how on-trend StyleArc tends to be, I wouldn’t be surprised to see this detail starting to pop up elsewhere soon, too.
If you sew for yourself and have been pregnant, you know that maternity patterns are difficult to find. Sure, the Big 4 offer them once in a while, but from my (and others’) experience, they tend to run very large–even for maternity wear. StyleArc has a few nice maternity basics, but beyond that, if you’re curvy, you’re pretty much stuck with adapting patterns that you already own. This unfilled niche is why I thought it was kind of great that Tilly (of Tilly and the Buttons) has reissued two of her popular patterns but modified for maternity wear–the Agnes top and Bettine dress:
I usually have a really difficult time with Vogue in these pattern roundups. Outside of some of the niche indies, Vogue is probably about the furthest company from my personal (casual) style out of the major pattern companies. This fall collection, though, did have some designs that I found a bit more appealing than the typical Vogue collection, though.
As a GG cup, I can’t wear strapless off-the-shoulder styles because no one makes a strapless bra in my size. However, I love this dress for those who can wear it. I’m not sure how I feel about it being made up in denim (Britney Spears flashbacks, anyone?) or the applique, but I really dig the line drawing.
For such a utilitarian garment, raincoat patterns are few and far between. A few indies have put out anorak patterns that could be adapted to raincoat use, but only Closet Case Files Kelly Anorak has a decently inclusive size range out of those. With that in mind, Sandra Betzina’s new raincoat pattern nicely fills this niche–going up to a 52″ bust and 54″ hip.
I feel like I shouldn’t like this dress/pinafore/jumper thing, but I do. The details are unique, and in theory, with the belt and the stitched-down-over-the-hips skirt pleats, this design should have potential to create/enhance an hourglass figure. It’s sort of like a weird mashup of a schoolgirl outfit with a business suit, but I feel like it works.
So what are your thoughts on your favorites for this month? I loved that Burda Plus collection so much that I’ve actually ordered a single copy of the August issue (much more economical that purchasing that collection digitally). A few of those Simplicity patterns are must-have for me, too, and I might take a chance on FBA’ing/grading up that Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress/Top, as well.