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Found: The Best Leggings Pattern(s) for Plus Size Women

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Hello curvy sewing friends!

I’ve been on the hunt for the perfect pair of leggings for a while now. In this post, I’ll compare four different leggings patterns to find my favorite(s).

Note #1: For an apples-to-apples review, I’ve made all of the samples up in a compression spandex from JoAnn. This is their new line of Athleisure wear and I love it! This thick fabric is completely opaque, with great stretch (thank you, 18% spandex!) and recovery. You can use either side of the fabric (one side is a little shinier, one side has more texture), and it’s a generous 58″ wide. It is expensive $25/yard, but if you wait for one of their 60% off coupons, it’s totally worth buying 6 yards of it at a go! They currently have 5 colors, I think — black, gray, turquoise blue, coral pink, and (maybe?) white. Anyway, go get yourself some — you won’t regret it.

Note #2: My body type gets more “apple” every day (44″ waist, 54″ hips). I have relatively short arms/legs, with a nice round tummy. My butt is biggest at the “high hip shelf” and rapidly shrinks to a flat pancake at the bottom. If you are my body double, rejoice and follow my recommendations below! If you have a different body type, take my review below with a grain of salt.

Okay, back to the review…

My dream leggings pattern would satisfy the following criteria:

  • Super high waist, so that I don’t have to worry about them rolling down when I’m doing Crossfit (which requires a lot of bending/squatting movements). I will always add elastic to the inside top of the waistband for extra support, but bonus points if the pattern includes that step.
  • Works with a variety of fabrics, so that I can make versions in high-compression performance spandex (for exercise) as well as everyday cotton lycra (for daily casual wear, under dresses, etc.)
  • Inclusive sizing, because fat girls need leggings too! I like to be in the middle of the size range (which gives me more confidence that the “block” is meant for curvy women). I’ll also take being the largest size in the range. I prefer not to have to grade up. (See my tirade about grading up here.)
  • Options, beyond just cutting the legs a bit shorter for different lengths. (Thanks, pattern designers, I can figure that one out on my own.) I want options for color blocking, gussets, different leg styles (tights vs flares, etc.), and different waistbands.

Patterns for Pirates Peg Legs

I started with the Patterns for Pirates Peg Leg pattern, which was free when you joined their mailing list. (Or was it Facebook group? I can’t remember). They have since released an updated version with a ton of options, but I was going with the original — one view, 1 piece knit waistband, different cut lengths (long, capri, knee and shortie. I’ve made about six of these versions after tweaking the fit — raising the front rise about 3 inches and adding fabric to the center front (a faux large tummy adjustment). It was my go-to pattern in spandex and cotton lycra. Here’s how they looked:

What’s good:

  • They basically fit.
  • The length is right.
  • They are free.
  • I didn’t have to grade up (I think I was the largest size)

Drawbacks:

  • They are being pulled pretty tight (so shiny!!) — except around the knee, where I have some weird bagginess.
  • There is some wrinkling on the back of my inner thighs — this would normally signal that I need more room there.
  • The waistband is pulling down in front — I think this is actually a style option (remember I already added 3 inches to the front rise!), but I would prefer a more level waistband.
  • Because the waistband is a single piece that is flipped in half, there is no easy way anchor elastic to the top of the waistband, to keep it from slipping down.

Jalie Cora Leggings

Next up, I tried the Jalie Cora Leggings. Overall, I really like the Jalie drafting — they are one of my favorite pattern companies and they have a great variety of activewear and dancewear. Here’s how they looked:

What I liked:

  • Nice high waist, and 2-piece waistband with THE BEST directions for attaching elastic to the top seam allowance (which I have subsequently used for every other pair of leggings) for a clean finish.
  • Cool seam lines for a variety of color-blocking options.
  • Gusset for additional range of motion, and a “forward” inner leg seam that prevents chafing in the crotch region
  • Built-in back pocket big enough to hold my phone/keys (see blue center back patch in photos below)
  • Didn’t have to grade up
  • Two views (leggings and bike shorts)

Drawbacks:

  • The fancier seam lines means this is not an “everyday basic,” (even if they are awesomely sporty).
  • Drafted with a 30″ inseam, so I had to DRASTICALLY shorten them for my 27 inch legs. Shortening was hard with so many different pieces.
  • Jalie uses a 1/4″ seam allowance, which I find fiddly.
  • Sparse instructions might turn off a newbie.
  • I sewed the largest size (FF), so some curvy sewists might need to grade up. (Again, because there are so many pieces, grading up will be a pain.)

Cashmerette Belmont Leggings

Cashmerette recently released their activewear collection, including the Belmont leggings and yoga pants. I am an unabashed Cashmerette fan (and often pattern tester, although I didn’t test this particular pattern) and was super-excited to try these out. Here’s what they looked like (leggings, with gusset):

What I liked:

  • Super high waist — at first I was worried these were too high, and then I came to my senses. These babies are NOT going to roll down.
  • Sleek fit at the waistband — these will layer beautifully underneath other clothes, without a bulky waistband showing through. The 2-piece waistband also provides a nice grip for inserted elastic.
  • Multiple options — while I have only sewn up the leggings, I’m excited to also do the capri-length yoga pants (with a kick leg) for when the weather warms up a little.
  • Gusset options — for both the yoga pant and the leggings, you have a completely different set of pattern pieces for “with gusset” and “without gusset”
  • Because Cashmerette designs for curves (sizes 12-28), I’m right in the middle of the pack — I don’t feel like I’m teetering on the edge of “too fat to wear this pattern.”
  • While still snug, these leggings felt the least restrictive of all the leggings patterns I tried.
  • Fantastic “everyday basic” that I can see wearing multiple times each week.

Drawbacks:

  • Outer leg seam is not as smooth as 1-piece legs. Definitely feel more like pants than tights.
  • Some weird wrinkling/twisting at my knees — I think I might need to shorten the legs above the knee, but it also looks like I might need a knock knee adjustment.
  • Some wrinkling at the front crotch means I need to scoop out the front crotch seam a bit — this is super easy (and a frequent adjustment for me).
  • Although this is a fantastic “everyday basic,” I miss some special details like color-blocking options, pocket for phone/keys, etc. that I got with the Cora leggings above.

Helen’s Closet Avery Leggings

I was about to publish this review as is, when another contender came on the scene: the Helen’s Closet Avery Leggings. I’m head over heels in love with my Blackwood Cardigan, so I thought I’d give the Averys (Averies?) a go. Here’s what they looked like:

What I like:

  • Two rise options — I love the high-rise version, but may make a medium-rise version for lounging around the house.
  • 2-piece waistband, including a curved front piece, really fits nicely, and is drafted for elastic at the top.
  • Best gusset — the triangle gusset shape is easy to sew, with the best directions of this cohort.
  • 1-piece leg gives a smooth look — looks and feels like tights.
  • Best fit around the knees — no wrinkling, no bagginess

Drawbacks:

  • I had to grade up. This pattern goes to an XXL, and I needed an XXXL. Because there are only 4 pieces, it was easy (e.g. less than 10 extra minutes total) but, again, you know how I am about having to grade up.
  • This pattern calls for a fabric with 70% horizontal and 70% vertical stretch. That is pretty unusual (the other patterns called for 50% – 60% stretch) and limits the fabrics you can use — although you can always go up another size for fabric with less stretch.
  • The horizontal waist seam hits at the “high hip” which can show through when layered under other clothing. I will almost always be wearing a top the hangs below that seam line, and I’m not super keen about it showing through.
  • It looked like I need to scoop out the front crotch curve and lower the back crotch curve just a smidge. So I did, and here is my second go-round:

  • Proving you just can’t win, the fit at the crotch on this second version of Avery leggings is perfect, but now I have a little weird wrinkling around the knees. I think I just didn’t have the legs pulled all the way up, but I’ll have to investigate the next time I wear them.

Final reflections

Okay, so now I have a slew of leggings in my dresser, all made from a similar fabric. Which ones are my favorites, and which ones will I made in different fabrics? Let’s award some winners:

  • For feeling “sporty” I love the Cora leggings. I will probably only wear them in athletic situations and in athletic fabrics. It definitely makes me feel like I can rock a workout with ladies who are primarily shopping at Athleta and lululemon.
  • When I’m looking for basics, I will vacillate between the Belmont and Avery leggings. I’ll probably choose the Averys when I want a smooth leg (e.g. no outer seam) and the Belmonts when I want a smooth tummy (e.g. a discreet waistband).
  • I’ll need to experiment and see how these patterns do in a more everyday fabric (like cotton lycra or bamboo jersey). I’m leaning towards the Belmont leggings here, because they require fabric with less stretch 50%, vs. the Avery’s 70% stretch requirements), but also because the Belmont’s sizing is more inclusive and it will be easier to go up an additional size for a fabric with less stretch, if needed.
  • While the original Peg Legs have served valiantly in the past, I will be retiring them as they wear out and I replace them with other options. A moment of silence, please, for those original patterns we initially think are awesome, only to discover later what we were missing.

Oh, before I go, some disclaimers and additional notes:

  • I got a free PDF copy of the Belmont Leggings because I tested the accompanying activewear top. I also got the Avery pattern PDF for free from Helen’s Closet, when I emailed her about being included in this round-up. All opinions are my own (and fair, I think).
  • Gillian recently got some sass from a commenter about showing her butt in a leggings review post. First of all, ain’t nobody got time for body shaming and if you have any comments about my photos above that deviate from GET IT, GURRL then please pass on by. Second, check out Gillian’s post to see the Belmont and Avery (and Espresso) leggings on a different body type.

Thanks everyone for playing along — I know there are some other curve-friendly leggings patterns out there that I haven’t tried. If you have a recommendation, please leave it in the comments!

Comments

  2. Thank you for your review, I’m sure it will be helpful for some people; however, I feel there is a gaping error.

    While you mention that P4P re-released their Pegs you fail to mention that their new version and its FREE add-on pack address the majority of your wants and completely eliminate your last two drawbacks. In the new Pegs, there are high waist and regular waist options, a curved waistband option (which creates that higher, leveled off waistband you said you wanted) including adding elastic to the top of the waistband. Additionally, there are options to color block the sides, adding a pocket along the thigh, or even a pocket on the waistband.

    In order for this to be a fair review, I implore you to update your information. If I had not personally owned the Pegs and knew of those options, I wouldn’t give them a second glance based off your review because you have failed to represent them correctly.

  3. This was such a helpful post! And you did so much work- kudos to you, it likely would have taken me a year to sew that many pairs of leggings. As it is, I just finished 2 pairs of the Seamwork Shelley leggings, in both a ponte knit and in the JoAnn’s activewear line, and both fit extremely well. I did have to add elastic to the waist of the ponte knit pair, as I learned the hard way from the first that they can slide down without the extra help! The pattern sounds closest to the Avery from your description, with a high waist, single inner seam, and gusset. Thanks again!

    • I wasn’t familiar with the Seamwork Shelley leggings. My experience with Colette has been… mixed… but I’m not sure how that translates over to the Seamwork patterns. Glad to know you’ve had a positive experience!

  4. Thank you for such a thorough and well done comparison. I have a similar shape, but am size 28 RTW, and its nice to see big beautiful bodies in these leggings. I am forever having to size up and it is frustrating to see that even for most of these patterns, i’m too large. (i have gotten rather good a grading patterns, in fact). The Belmont sound like a good option though and i may use it as a base to create my own mash up of it and the bonus pieces from P4P.
    Thanks again for a great review.

    • Thanks so much! I should probably start exercising more to make all these leggings worth it. Although I’ve noticed they do lovely double-duty on the couch while I watch the Olympics!

    • I was so happy that you agreed to be included! Thanks for donating the pattern — buying multiple patterns for a similar piece can be cost prohibitive, and your generosity allows me to be more ambitious in my comparisons!

  7. Really helpful review! When you refer to “scooping out” at the crotch seam, what did you do specifically? Looking at your pictures I can tell that I frequently have the exact same problem, and it would be nice to know how you fixed it!

  8. Great reviews! I liked that you used the same fabric. I hate reading pattern comparisons and they choose fabrics that are so different, it’s not a comparison anymore!
    Pegs seem to be a “love them or hate them” legging. I do suggest trying the newer ones. I’m surprised you didn’t take out the crotch wrinkles on those ones–they seem worse then the two where you fixed this. It does seem to be a common complaint about the Pegs.
    I have a pair of yoga pants from Costco with a seam across my lower back and I always feel like my underwear is sliding down. I’m glad you pointed out this feature.

    • Honestly, I made the Pegs in this review a long time ago, when I didn’t know as much about fitting pants. If I was going to keep them, I would definitely scoop out the crotch a little. It’s a standard adjustment for me now!

  9. Thank You, Thank You for your time spent sewing, testing, and posting the results of these leggings patterns. I am an apple shape as well and your reviews are very helpful for me. I have not ventured into making my own so far (teetering on the brink though), because of my fit issues. I also like leggings my leggings to fit more like close fitting cotton knit pants since I wear them with tunics. You’ve given a great review, especially for fellow apples. Connie Crawford has a pant sloper pattern (CS1502 on her website) which includes a leggings sloper that goes up to size 6x. She also has a sportswear pattern Butterick 6498 which includes a leggings pattern that goes upto size 6x also. Her pants patterns are great for apple shapes and women that belly/booty fit issues.

    • Thanks for these additional recommendations! I find myself reaching for cotton lycra leggings most weekends, since they are so much more comfortable than jeans.

    • Thank you , Robin for the information on Connie Crawford’s site! I am going to check her out, I am way above the size range on almost all the patterns and I really hate upgrading!

  10. Jennifer, you are my body clone! Well, except for the height. And I have long legs. Love your review. Great details. All of this is very helpful. I have a few of these patterns and haven’t had time to sew them up. I did sew up a pair of leggings made from a Burda pattern. They have no side seam, but have a weird bump on the inner seam that I ended up pinning and sewing over. Only wore them once. Not very comfortable. As far as body shamers go, they can always remove themselves from the list and they won’t have to look at the pictures any more!

  11. thanks for posting this. Helen’s closet is the leggings are the legging I’m going to chose to make.. Thanks again.

  12. thank you, i have been making the pegs ( including the updated versions), And not too impressed, i am the maximum, size with having to increase sizing as they are a few inches too small. But i was just recently looking into the twig and wolf tights and the cashmerette ones. I think i may just buy the cashmerette ones and see how they stack up.

  13. Jennifer, you did a great job with the leggings review and sharing your measurements helped me evaluate each pattern. We are similar in figure type. You look lovely in leggings and Iā€™ve decided to make a pair!

    You inspired me on occasion with makes that I would never have considered – like the Tilton t-shirt with the odd pocket you use for carrying eggs from your chickens. (I think that was you šŸ™‚ ) Thank you so much for time and effort šŸ™‚

    • Oh my gosh, I am so glad you commented. I ended up staining that Tilton sweatshirt and throwing it out, and I meant to make another one but it completely slipped my mind. I need to make another immediately!!

  14. I appreciate your time and reviewing process, I have hesitated from choosing between the different available patterns but your observations and the photos of ‘proof of fit’ are invaluable. Thank you!

    • You are welcome! It’s always better to have an apples-to-apples comparison, right? I’m happy to do these comparison posts, because it pushes me out of my comfort zone a little. Otherwise, I probably would have just picked one pattern and stuck with it. And what fun is that?

  15. Please don’t retire your pegs, if you use the add ons you will have a gusset, a contour band which is marbelous for our apple shapes and some of the sporty features you love including a pocket.

    • At the moment, I think I am full-up on leggings patterns, but it’s always good to know there are other options if I choose to expand my repertoire again!

    • Yes!! I am always stunned when people think it’s appropriate to offer unsolicited advice on fit, shape, and style. Dude, if I want the internet’s opinion my body (and the things I put on my body) I will very explicitly ask for it.

    • Thanks so much! I will confess that taking photos of my butt is about my least favorite activity. But I’m glad that people have been so positive in their comments here!

  18. I’ve never sewn leggings so I really appreciate your review of this lineup! I ride horses & sew for people who do. We want a seam on the outer leg so it is not chafing our inner thigh. Do any of these go together that way or do I need to keep looking? I think you only mention an outer seam. Thank you so much.

    • The only pattern I’ve seen with no seam on the inner leg is the Steeplechase leggings by Fehr Trade.

    • The Cora leggings have an inner seam that is moved forward — I don’t know if it’s forward enough for horseback riding, but it definitely helps with chafing during regular wear!

  20. Thank you for this review, because it’s GREAT to see how patterns fit us apples! Although I’m not sold on making leggings yet (& I want some) The expense of ‘trying out’ a pattern is usually what stops me

    • Leggings are a great quick sew! Once you find a pattern that works, they are so easy (and relatively cheap) to whip up. And since I wear them at least 3x a week, they are a good investment of my sewing time.

  21. Thank you. Thank you! I haven’t made leggings, but I want to give them a try since I live in leggings and yoga pants. The other pattern that I see a lot is the Ninjas. Have you ever tried them?

    • I haven’t! I know the Ninjas are commonly compared to the Peg Legs, since both are “intro” free patterns, but I haven’t gotten around to trying them. (And now that I have some good options, I’m not likely to try any new leggings patterns for a while.)

  22. Thanks for sharing! I am a fan of your posts, comparisons, throw downs etc. You are my taller body twin and your reviews are always helpful. While I have no interests in making leggings anytime soon, this is on trend and always helpful.

  23. I like wearing leggings but hate how tight lots of them are around the stomach, I can’t take tight clothes like tights or leggings unless they are loose between hip and waist. I doubt that I could wear spandex so patterns for cotton or bamboo are my preference. Your comments are very useful (plus you look good in all the finished items, occasional sag/wrinkles don’t show up on the photos) but I admit that I usually use an old pair as a pattern and often use plain cotton jersey for fabric. The other option I have found is a lightweight cotton weave cut on the bias. This provides good fit from the thighs down (careful measurements need to be taken) and can also cater for a looser waist. As I wear seventies style smock tops for comfort these are ideal for me and could also work for anyone else who wants fitted legging like trousers without wearing heavy stretch fabrics.

    • I’ve seen some sewists have great success with leggings made from bamboo jersey. It’s one of my favorite substrates for t-shirts, but I’m a little nervous about durability for leggings.

  24. Thankyou for this review. It is really helpful to hear your thoughts and I might just give leggings a go. I have been putting it off but you have definitely given me some encouragement.

    • You can definitely tackle them in an afternoon (and in about an hour once you get in the groove), so they are not as overwhelming a commitment as they might seem!

  25. Great review, thank you.
    I would have loved to see a review on the updated pegs. They have a gusset, color blocking, pocket option, and more options for waistband. I would just be curious if your opinion would change with the updates. Also photos of the fit of the updated pegs to compare to the others would be nice as I only have the updated version so the fit photos of the old version don’t really help me.

    • The CSC blog is always looks for new contributors — perhaps you’d like to sew up both versions of the Peg Legs and write a review comparing the different fits?

  26. Great review, thank you.
    I would have loved to see a review on the updated pegs. They have a gusset, color blocking, pocket option, and more options for waistband. I would just be curious if your opinion would change with the updates. Also photos of the fit of the updated pegs to compare to the others would be nice as I only have the updated version so the fit photos of the old version don’t really help me.

  27. While my body isn’t shaped like yours much at all – I love the comparative reviews that you do. They are incredibly helpful and honest. While I’m not yet a fan of leggings with dresses, I do love me some beautiful fun colored tights under a dress and I think leggings won’t be far behind. BUT – how do you keep your dress from sticking to them? g

    • Ugh — how many times in my life have I had my skirt ride up enough that I’m basically giving a pelvic demonstration to the public? Too many times to count.

      That said, there are a couple of things you can do:

      First, floaty skirt fabric seem to be the worst for riding up — a heavier fabric with a skirt that is longer (e.g. at your knee or below) seems to ride up the least. Alternately, go short with a miniskirt or tunic length — they don’t catch as much on your legs when you move, and so don’t get pushed up.

      If you are having problems with overall cling (from static), rub a dab of lotion on your hands, then run those well-lotioned hands over the top of your leggings. It will eliminate the static and help things lay nicely. Note: it shouldn’t be enough lotion to stain your leggings — less is more here.

      • Gmarie- I have been using a rayon spandex blend (one of the basic jerseys from Joann’s) for leggings and they almost never cause my skirt to ride up or cling. I find cotton blends to be horrible for leggings and cause all sorts of clinging! Fabric type makes a big difference here. I’ve also used that lotion (or in a pinch, just water from the bathroom sink at work) trick!

        • Megan — my experience with rayon jersey is that it has horrible recovery. I’m swimming in my t-shirts by the end of the day. How does that work with leggings? Are you making them extra snug so they stretch our early in the day? Have you found a magical no-bagging rayon jersey?

          • Jennifer- That Jersey from Joann’s doesn’t bag out on me at all for the first 2-3 months of 4-7 days a week wear ;). After that it does loose some elasticity and bags out after 2 or 3 days. And then of course eventually it is just shot in the recovery department. I know what you mean about the stuff that stretches out, this seems to somehow be different. Its not that tissue knit you normally get with rayon knits. Its thicker and maybe it has a higher spandex percentage? I’m not seeing it on their website right now though, I think its one of the Sew Classics line. That said, i think I’m going to like the DBP more now, especially since its more opaque.

      • Those dryer sheets that we use in the clothes dryer are amazing and less messy than lotion. You can carry one or two in a small zip lock bag, hardly takes any room in your purse.

  28. Thank-you for this great comparison. I have been holding off on sewing leggings and now, with your help, they are on my ā€œmust makeā€ list. As far as Photos of how the leggings fit, keep them coming. It is extremely helpful to see how something fits on a person who has a similar build to me. You get the real look.

  29. Brilliant, as always! I love seeing how they fit you because we are similar sizes but different shapes! I happen to be wearing my very first pair of Espressos today, which I sewed as a pattern tester back in 2013. It’s pretty awesome that so many good options for leggings have come out since then!

  30. I get that knee bagging all of the time, too. I think it’s from being too short for the pattern and not getting the knee in the exact right place.

    My weight/measurements have changed, so I’m at the point where I’d need to re-draft, but the Connect-the-dots-to-draft-your-own Espresso Leggings by Cake patterns were my go-to leggings pattern for years.

    • I know that Gillian also loves the Espresso leggings!

      I wish there was a common pattern marking/nomenclature for marking the knee. It seems like some pattern designers include a notch at the knee, but that is sporadic at best. And with leggings, it’s even harder since the vertical stretch of the fabric will change the location of the knee too!

    • I know it’s a relatively old pattern and you’ve mainly focused on new releases, but I also love Cake Espressos. I’ll call my shape “challenging”. My waist and hip measurement are the same, and my lower hip (not including stomach) is 3″ less than my waist. Add to that comparatively slender legs. I have a hard time with leggings staying up, also being too baggy in the hips and legs, particularly the knees, too tight in the calves, too low in the rise and too long in the leg. The Espressos allow for custom measurements to tackle all of those fit issues and I love that they’re so comfy and never sag in the crotch or slip from the waist – and no baggy knees!!

  32. I havenā€™t made a pair of leggings yet and this comparison is SO helpful!!!
    Thanks for putting the time into this!
    So I think my conclusion is that I need to buy SEVERAL patterns – lol!!

    • The good part about leggings is that they are generally quick sews and don’t use up much fabric (generally 1.5 yards or less) so you don’t have to make a big investment of time or money!

  33. I’ve only made one pair of leggings so far — a McCall’s pattern — and I wasn’t too jazzed about them as they ran large and I wasn’t a fan of the fabric I used. Leggings are one of the few things I buy and I like a high waist and thick waistband as well as a slim fit. You’re tempting me to try again at sewing some.

    • I’m still really struggling with a leggings in cotton lycra. My RTW ones from Lane Bryant really stand up to multiple washings, don’t pill, and retain good stretch recovery. I haven’t been able to find the right CL fabric to match it’s performance…

      • Yes, it seems like the most difficult thing is finding the right fabric. My favorite leggings are Ana leggings from JCPenney.

  34. Thank you for your reviews. My body is shaped much like yours, so these are valuable insights for me.

    • Good luck — report back if/when you make up your first pair! The CSC community FB page is great for helping with fitting issues (and great positive feedback!).

  35. Great post, Jennifer! And thanks for doing all the hard work, butt double. I think I may try out the Averys too, even though I also have the belmont. I have been self drafting but I’m SO over doing that every time I change sizes šŸ˜‰

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