Are you looking for a last minute party dress? A pretty date night dress? Try making a stretch lace dress, it’s much easier than you might think!
Here’s what you need:
– Stretch lace fabric
– Lightweight jersey knit
– Matching thread
– Clear elastic
– Ballpoint needles
– Pattern for a knit dress (I used the Colette Moneta pattern)
– Sewing machine
My fabric was bought at a Dutch fabric market but a quick search showed similar fabrics available at Fabric.com, EmmaOneSock, Mood, Gorgeous Fabrics and many other online sources.
I love the simple, clean lines of the Moneta for this project. Several sleeve options, a turn-and stitch neckline and sizing up to 3XL. Of course you can use other knit dress patterns as well, just look for styles with a minimal amount of seams and, preferably, without a collar or neckband.
When I urgently needed a dress for a special occasion, I stumbled upon a beautiful blue stretch lace. I had never worked with a similar fabric before but, fingers crossed, how hard could it be? I decided to just handle it like I would do any other 2-way stretch knit. I had just finished a Moneta dress so I could skip fitting issues and I knew in this remake the fabric could be the star.
When working with lace, a nice way to deal with the sheerness is by underlining the bodice. The underlining will hide the seam allowances and prevent your lace from stretching out of shape. If you’re not familiar with this technique: you cut the underlining from the same pattern pieces as the fashion fabric. In case of the Moneta dress, you cut the bodice front and bodice back from the lace, and again from a lightweight knit fabric of your choice. Put the front and back lace bodice pieces on top of the matching underlining bodice pieces, both fabrics with right sides up. Pin or baste them together and from there treat them as one.
Play around with your lace before deciding on the colour of your underlining. Initially I wanted to use a champagne coloured knit but when I put the lace over a navy fabric from my stash I preferred the toned down look. When the pattern of your lace is more subtle, you might want to use a contrasting layer underneath to emphasize the lace design, like in this Asos dress:
Now do some test runs on your sewing machine or your serger to see what gives you the best results. I preferred the sewing machine, as it gave me just that little bit of extra control. I used a small zigzag stitch to sew the shoulder seams and added clear elastic to stabilize the seams as per the pattern instructions.
I then catch stitched the seam allowances to the underlining. I suppose you could skip that bit, but keep in mind the shoulder seams of a Moneta dress are only about 5 cm wide, so it’s not a lot of work for a beautiful finish.
For the sleeves I used a single layer of lace. The sleeves were set in flat, also sewn with a small zigzag. The seam allowances were catch stitched to the bodice underlining so they would not be visible through the sheer sleeves. I scooped out the front neckline, folded the neckline over and hand stitched it down.
It works! No gaping, even when I’m bending over!
After stitching the side seams and underarm seams it was time to come up with a plan for the skirt. Underlining the skirt would make it quite heavy and I wanted to keep a flowy effect. I went for separate layers and sewed a simple straight tube for the lining to prevent extra bulk at the waistline. You can see the difference in skirt width in the opening picture of this post.
Both skirts have French seams. I gathered the lace skirt, basted it to the lining skirt and then attached the skirts to the bodice, adding clear elastic at the waist seam. The lining skirt did not need hemming. The sleeve and skirt hems were stitched by hand.
Done! The most comfortable dress I’ve ever owned!
The possibilities of lace dresses are endless! Style it with silver shoes and jewelry for evening wear, add a wide satin ribbon in a matching or contrasting colour as seen in Vogue 8766. Go sleeveless, make a maxi dress, play with contrast. Just be careful with white lace and bold linings to avoid the dreaded tablecloth look! How about a lace dress in taupe with a soft pink lining to attend a summer wedding? Forest green for Christmas, pastel blue or hot pink for a spring dress, a timeless LBD?
Or… make a stunning lace dress for Valentine’s Day!
Lovely dress and very flattering. Thanks for suggestions on color combinations. I’m adding this to my to-make list. Cute dog, too!!
Awww…. doggie!
So pretty! And quite inspirational.
Gorgeous and I love that color choice.
Great post and a beautiful dress. Thank you for the walk through, it’s going on my very long list of things to try.
Wow Marianne! What a stunning dress. I am looking for some nice jersey for my first project with that fabric, this dress might well be my second! The lace is beautiful and the colour is one of my favourites, I think you look fabulous in the dress too. Your advice is excellent, I might try sewing with lace sooner rather than later.
Exactly! This was only my second knit dress ever, just do it!
Oh! My sister is getting married this year. I might need a lace knit dress for all the events I will be attending!
You already did a wonderful job on fitting your Moneta so you’re ready to go. Have fun!
Aw, thank you!
I love it! Versatile and elegant, I need one…..
Certainly versatile! Formal dinners, an evening at the theatre or lounging by the fire, this dress worked for me in all kinds of situations!
Thank you for this post, Marianne! That colour is sooo pretty on you, and I love your pictures! I’ve been looking for some nice lace of my own, but not found any yet… I’ll be keeping this tutorial in mind, though!
Thanks! No editing so far, I only know how to crop pictures. Your posts on better photography are inspiring me to change my habits. If only there were more hours in a day… Hope you’ll find some lace soon!
Well done! I have resolved to try and work in more lace after seeing the project Runway show and the lovely lace in the plus sized project winner’s collection. What a great look. Of course I made my own mother of the groom dress with some lace also, but I sure like yours. Great color. Love the review.
Thanks, Elaine! I haven’t watched this series of Project Runway yet, maybe I should!
Oh fabulous dress Marianne, thanks for sharing this. I wonder if to reduce waistline bulk could one just extend the bodice lining to a bit of an A line skirt (you know, so the thing doesn’t hitch all the time!) and perhaps do away with the waist seam in the lining all together?
Just love the red versions too, so va va voom!
And thank you for your beautiful photos, good photos make such a wonderful difference 😉
Hi Lesley! In this case you can’t remove the waist seam, as the bodice is underlined and the skirt is lined. The waist seam lies nice and flat, no worries there. Now I had to look up the hitch thing (English is my second language 😉 but if you make sure the waist seam hits you at your true waist it will stay where it’s supposed to be, if that’s what you mean!
This is beautiful! I love that you have sun ad nice weather right now! We are cold and snow here in PA!
It’s freezing in The Netherlands as well, Stephanie! I made this dress a while ago. I never thought about writing a tutorial until I read a post about the lack of patterns for curvy party dresses.
Beautiful!!
Thanks!
What a fabulous dress! I just may have to add this to my endless list! Thank you for your tips.
It’s quick and easy, Anne. Nice post wedding project?
Thanks, Marianne. Just about tearing my hair out so an easy project would be good – especvailly as it looks so good.
Beautiful dress, and it looks lovely on you.
Thank you!
Wow! Beautiful dress and you would never know it was a comfortable knit. Thank you for the instructions. I am adding this to my “to-do one day” list.
Comfortable it is! It’s so nice to look like you made an effort while only you know you’re wearing your secret pyjamas!
Fabulous! Thanks for sharing it!
Thanks!
THank you for all the tips you generously provided in this post! I have about 3 metres of bright pink lace just burning a hole in my stash every time I see it 🙂 I hadn’t decided what to do with it yet but your dress has stimulated some good ideas and boosted my confidence in working with it. Beautiful dress! Love how you kept the lines simple to showcase the lace.
Ooh, bright pink…that will make a pretty dress!
Excellent! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
This is absolutely stunning! I think you have just solved the problem of what to wear at my son’s wedding this summer……I need something casual and comfortable, yet stylish enough for the mother of the groom. Thank you so much for sharing!
It will be wonderfully comfortable! And it doesn’t wrinkle, so you’ll look great in pictures, all day long!