Pattern Name: Sewaholic Robson
Size Range: 0-16
What size did you make? Graded up to about a size 24
What are your…..
- Measurements: 48-41-52
- Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
- Height: 5’8
- Bra size: 44D
Source: Sewaholic Patterns
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
It was quite a process getting this pattern to the stage where it would fit me. Grading it up took a lot of my time as there are so many pattern pieces combined with a big jump in sizes. Aside from re-sizing this pattern, I did a full sleeve adjustment, which included adding width to the sleeve pieces (there are two) along with drafting a third piece to accommodate my full biceps. To fit the sleeve adaption, I added some small pleats on the shoulders for a little more of a retro and feminine vibe.
The Robson is unlined, but I fully lined mine. This added a lot more time to the coat-making process, but I prefer my coats lined, plus it gives more of a professional finish.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
Sewing this coat is time-consuming with all of the pattern pieces and the top-stitching. I started this about a year before I completely finished it. This was mostly due the weather warming up when I was making it last spring, so I set aside and didn’t come back to it for many months later. When colder weather returned, I decided to start on my coat again and pushed myself to finish it. This is more of an advanced pattern, but the instructions, for the most part, are well-written and walk you through the process. The only problem I had with the instructions were the button placements. I scratched my head a bit when I reached that part and I had to look at my RTW trench coats to fully figure it out. I still have one button to add to the buttons on the front as it went missing while this project sat around and I recently found it.
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?
I like the fit and I love wearing this coat. Sewaholic patterns are designed for a pear-shaped figure and I’m a pear-ish shape, so I think it’s a good shape for me. It goes well with both dresses and pants. I like how the design has a fuller “skirt” shape as I don’t like things too fitted on my bottom half.
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I’m not sure if I will make this pattern again as I’m not sure I have a need for another trench coat and the process of making this one is a long one. If I did make it again, I’d probably do a small swayback adjustment and perhaps a small FBA. I would enlarge the armscyes as well. I would also make it in a weather proof fabric as the silk faille of this one isn’t practical for rainy weather.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?
If you’re outside the size range for the Robson, you may want to make a muslin of this coat first to check the fit. I didn’t do that, although I probably should have to fix the little pattern adjustments. I initially sewed the lining in, but ended up taking it out as when I put it on, the sleeves pulled on the lining and distorted the hem. My lining is hanging free and attached to the coat with French tacks.
I used this tutorial when grading this pattern up.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
- Size range: 2
- Instructions: 4
- Construction process: 3
- Final fit: 4.5
- Overall rating: 3.37
Overall, I am very much in love with this coat. It’s exactly what I envisioned, which was a luxurious coat in a bright color that goes with many of the clothes in my wardrobe. It wasn’t a fun experience to make this coat, but it was a satisfying one in the end. I wish there were more patterns like this in larger sizes, which would have made this coat easier to construct. Sewaholic has expanded their size range a few sizes, but the Robson hasn’t been included in the size expansion.
Gorgeous coat! And the color is so perfect for you.
This looks fab! The colour is great and the end result seems worth the adjustment effort to me 🙂
Beautiful coat. It’s one of those, things where it’s worth it in the end, but mid process you might question your sanity and why you started it in the first place.
To me, it’s very inspirational. I’d love to have a brilliant trench. Alas, I have not budgeted time to do it as of yet.
It is a beautiful coat, but only because of what you’ve added, your fabric choice and that you are wearing it. The pattern itself – was it worth it? The answer is yes, if only for the inspiration it gave you.
This is one of those moments where I question the usefulness of grading up a pattern with a couple interesting features, rather than using a pattern that does not require grading and adding in those features. I am not above buying two patterns and using the details from one on the other. If a company isn’t going to make patterns in a range that fits me (say, every Japanese pattern book I’ve read), why should I give them credit for a pattern that frankly is not usable without significant labor on my part?
And once again, damn girl! That’s beautiful, inspiring work.
This is absolutely beautiful. Love the color. You look great in this gorgeous trench coat.
Love this!! I am just one size outside of the pattern’s range, and I was intimidated by sizing up all of those pieces. Go you!! I opted for the Style Arc Pure Trench instead. Although it’s been too warm to even think about starting it!! Ugh. I have some lovely Burberry wool too just waiting to be made into a lovely coat!
That is one great coat! Fantastic job of grading! At the moment I lack the sew-jo to tackle such a job. Color, sublime!
Fantastic grading job! Double breasted patterns are a right PITA to grade and it is awesome on you And my that red, is just perfect for Mrs Hughes!
This is absolutely beautiful. You should be so proud, the colour and style are perfect on you. Well done.
You did a beautiful job! It’s really gorgeous!
Tanya, WOW! This coat looks so beautiful. The grading sounds like a pain, but for the result it looks absolutely gorgeous and the color really pops. Thank you for sharing! Kathy G from Arizona
Love the colour and shape on you! Grading must have been an incredible amount of work, but it was definitely worth it!
As I said on the post on your blog, I’m keeping my fingers crossed they will regrade some of the older patterns to include their new size range! I’d love to make this, but there is no way I’m grading it up! Way too lazy for that.
The style complements your body shape as does the color complement your coloring. Good job
You look beautiful!! Awesome job. LOVE this coat.
What an accomplishment this coat truly is! Gorgeous 🙂 Beautiful colour, fit and style – suits you to a T. I’m just awed at the pattern fitting adjustments you made to such a complex pattern. I have a couple of Sewaholic (since she is a local designer for me here in Victoria BC and I’ve had the pleasure of meeting her at our local fabric store Gala Fabrics in Victoria BC) but I don’t have a pear shape – in fact quite the opposite so I would have to do a lot of adjusting myself to have a good fit which is what has delayed me! But reading your blog I have little to complain about.
I can’t even begin to tell you how much I love this!! I love the color and the style and you did a fantastic job with the grading. I really, really want to make a raincoat and after touching the Burbury lace trench in Vegas – I want to do it even more. g