Pattern Name: Sewaholic Robson
Size Range: 0-16
What size did you make? Graded up to about a size 24
What are your…..
- Measurements: 48-41-52
- Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
- Height: 5’8
- Bra size: 44D
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
It was quite a process getting this pattern to the stage where it would fit me. Grading it up took a lot of my time as there are so many pattern pieces combined with a big jump in sizes. Aside from re-sizing this pattern, I did a full sleeve adjustment, which included adding width to the sleeve pieces (there are two) along with drafting a third piece to accommodate my full biceps. To fit the sleeve adaption, I added some small pleats on the shoulders for a little more of a retro and feminine vibe.
The Robson is unlined, but I fully lined mine. This added a lot more time to the coat-making process, but I prefer my coats lined, plus it gives more of a professional finish.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
Sewing this coat is time-consuming with all of the pattern pieces and the top-stitching. I started this about a year before I completely finished it. This was mostly due the weather warming up when I was making it last spring, so I set aside and didn’t come back to it for many months later. When colder weather returned, I decided to start on my coat again and pushed myself to finish it. This is more of an advanced pattern, but the instructions, for the most part, are well-written and walk you through the process. The only problem I had with the instructions were the button placements. I scratched my head a bit when I reached that part and I had to look at my RTW trench coats to fully figure it out. I still have one button to add to the buttons on the front as it went missing while this project sat around and I recently found it.
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?
I like the fit and I love wearing this coat. Sewaholic patterns are designed for a pear-shaped figure and I’m a pear-ish shape, so I think it’s a good shape for me. It goes well with both dresses and pants. I like how the design has a fuller “skirt” shape as I don’t like things too fitted on my bottom half.
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I’m not sure if I will make this pattern again as I’m not sure I have a need for another trench coat and the process of making this one is a long one. If I did make it again, I’d probably do a small swayback adjustment and perhaps a small FBA. I would enlarge the armscyes as well. I would also make it in a weather proof fabric as the silk faille of this one isn’t practical for rainy weather.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?
If you’re outside the size range for the Robson, you may want to make a muslin of this coat first to check the fit. I didn’t do that, although I probably should have to fix the little pattern adjustments. I initially sewed the lining in, but ended up taking it out as when I put it on, the sleeves pulled on the lining and distorted the hem. My lining is hanging free and attached to the coat with French tacks.
I used this tutorial when grading this pattern up.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
- Size range: 2
- Instructions: 4
- Construction process: 3
- Final fit: 4.5
- Overall rating: 3.37
Overall, I am very much in love with this coat. It’s exactly what I envisioned, which was a luxurious coat in a bright color that goes with many of the clothes in my wardrobe. It wasn’t a fun experience to make this coat, but it was a satisfying one in the end. I wish there were more patterns like this in larger sizes, which would have made this coat easier to construct. Sewaholic has expanded their size range a few sizes, but the Robson hasn’t been included in the size expansion.