Hello there, CSC! Today’s Sewing for My Curves post comes from the ebullient and adorable Zuri of MissZuriB.com and @misszurib. Enjoy!
My measurements and body shape
These photos are of my shape (I’m fully clothed!!) : 
I’m an hourglass-ish pear. My family is full of women with large hips and considerably smaller waists. They are so confident and that encouraged me to love my shape. I was also blessed with a VERY full bust – something like a DD or possibly a G? A few years ago, I made a few dresses for church because it was hard to find something that covered my chest, was long enough to get to my knees, and still look classy when going over my hips.
Since 2013, I’ve sewn every single thing that I wear. I know what looks great on me and what does not. My style is rather simple: dress + cardigan = perfect day. I love classic cuts sewn up in punchy prints. I prefer styles that highlight my figure without showing too much. Only wearing what I sew has led to an amazing amount of body positivity and self-appreciation.
- I always do a full bust adjustment. Knit or woven, I have to create space for my girls. I realized that it is needed in some knit patterns too, as I got really strange gaping under my arms.
- In most woven patterns, and some knits, I have to do a narrow back/shoulder adjustment. Most of my chest measurement is in the front and this leaves a lot of space around the back. Sometimes, the adjustment is as simple as taking out a wedge at the shoulders, sometimes I have to totally rework the back. If it is a simple enough design, I use the “sloper” I made from a really old pattern. It is a simple center zipped, darted waist back.
- I always choose my size on my bust and then grade everything down for my waist and then back out for my hips. This is personally the easiest thing for me to do.
- I often times have to shorten the waist length, as I have a very high waist (literally 3″ under my bust).
- I will often add a lining for two reasons: it will look really expensive and I really hate facings.
Let it be known: I HATE wearing pants. With that said… My #1 go-to is the Fehr Trade Steeplechase pant! They sew up in less than an hour and no adjustments are necessary. They are high enough that nothing will slip out during exercise. Exercise – specifically Zumba – is really important to me. I’m not sure why active wear is so expensive. Earlier this year, I made a 10 piece collection that I use every week!:
Fit and Flare Knit Dresses:
My body shape reflects the look that I often go for. Fitted top, flared bottom. This way, I can focus on getting the bust area right, and I have not much else fitting to do. I sew a lot of knits. No particular reason why… here are some of my favorites:
Wrap/Mock Wrap Dresses:
I work in an office where the dress is fairly casual, but I think the wrap/faux wrap dress gives me so much zazzle! I swear one of these dresses will make you feel like $1 million!! My secret tip is to add clear elastic to the necklines, this way, I’m covered without actually covering up!
Cardigans:
I don’t seem to take many photos of these as they are such a utility for me! I love the Mouse House Julia Cardigan as well as the Style Arc Fiona Top. Here’s my Seamwork Oslo:
Skirts:
I love how quickly some skirts can come together. My go-to’s here are the Karen Skirt (which is out of print) and the New Look 6003. The Karen skirt is so simple. It’s the same front and back and has an elastic waist. I think I have gotten it down to under an hour – including cutting the skirt out. I love the dartless front of the 6003. It’s perfect to have a million of and makes a very cute and quick look.
Spit up and Stilettos Karen Skirt:
Swimwear/Underwear:
This is what really makes me happy about sewing. I LOVE being able to be confident in what I’m wearing either poolside or at the beach. I prefer modest cuts – but I still want to show some skin. I started with a Nettie bodysuit hacked into a swim suit, but now my go-to is the Sophie Swimsuit! The Watson bikini fits me so well; I cannot say enough about this bra and underwear!!!
Nettie body suit hacked into a swimsuit:
Sophie Swimsuit:
Girl, my goodness! You are a prolific sewer. What an amazing array of things. Iv’e always sewn for work. So my sewn garments are the fill-in can’t find in my size stuff. Or the ‘no way am i paying that for that because I can make it and it will fit better stuff. I have virtually no shape, straight 50″ bust hips stomach.
But like you, I love prints. Hoping to venture more into print mixing; Large size or not I love color and the wilder the print the better i like it. I have a large stash just scared to cut into some things I love so much sometimes. I have a basic pullover sleeveless tank dress that I’ve perfected and can make in knits or wovens, lined or unlined as needed that I make over and over all summer. Would rather spend time in a fabric store than anywhere else.
But your clothes are beautiful and you are too
LOVE the idea of clear elastic on the neckline! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Zuri, your clothes are lovely and I enjoyed your photos and comments. I want to try your 10 peice exercise wardrobe but want a comfortable knit as I have issues with arthritis and most stretch fabrics are too tight. Do you have suggestions for fabrics with more stretch. Thank you.
Hi Walker. Thank you! I think that your best bet is a jersey.
Wow! You are my inspiration for setting new goals in the New Year. I would love to find my fit and have everything turn out as well as all your lovely garments. I especially love the work-out wear and have gone over to look at all those patterns. I guess my biggest hangup is that all patterns have to be altered to get the best fit… so reading that line “I have learned that patterns are more like guidelines and you really have to make them your own” really spoke to me.
Thank you Patti! That’s the joy of sewing and creating your own wardrobe. I’m so excited to see what the new year will bring for you!
Adding you to my feed! What an amazing array of handmade goodies! Plus, we’re pretty close in measurements. I am always looking sewing muses that are also a similar size and/or shape. Yay me!
So much to like here, I can’t even comment on it all!
Thank you KS! 🙂 I’m also always on the lookout for similar size/shaped sewist! I’m so happy to connect!
I feel the same way. Love your style, and excited to find a sewist with similar sizing!
I really enjoyed this post. I have many of the same fitting issues so it’s great to see you rocking some patterns I haven’t tackled yet. Thanks so much!
Thank you Alison! What are you waiting for? Tackle those patterns! 🙂
Miss Zuri, you freaking rock!! Everything you make is just fantastic! Thanks so much for bigging up by Steeplechase Leggings pattern, too! ;-*
(Anybody else reading this: I just released a new pattern yesterday, the Knot-Maste Yoga Set, so there’s a 20% off sale with discount code NAMASTE til 26 Dec: shop.fehrtrade.com )
Thank you for releasing the Steeplechase into the sewing world Melissa! I’m all over the newest pattern too!
Great post! I love your focus on athletic wear– it is a true hole in offerings for those of us who aren’t slim (seriously, the offerings start to dry up at many stores and lines around 10/12 and finding a sports bra if you are busty can be like a leprechan’s turd). So much fabulous stuff! I think the new Fehr Trade Knot-Maste pieces are made for Zumba! Eitehr top version screams Zumba in a great pattern or bold color, and the pants look great too! For active wear, have you looked at 5 out of 4 patterns? She has some cool tops especially, with tons of options for built in bras, strap variations, lengths, bands, shirring, nursing options, and so on. Not affiliated, but if you sew active wear, she has a good size range and interesting offerings. https://5outof4.com/
Really cute items! I have figured out what works for me now I have to stop hoarding the patterns and actually make the stuff!
Happy post! I enjoyed this. It has only taken me 64 years to get some style and figure myself out. Getting a good handle on what works for me. It is a lovely feeeling to have a style? Fit and flare is whar works well. No cowl necklines or waterfall cardigans as they just annoy me! Slim but not skinny pants.
?Finding your style is always an amazing thing! Thank you Elaine!
Great wardrobe Zuri. You have worked out what suits you perfectly with the fitted upper body, nipped waist and fullness below waistline. My favourite make of yours was actually the 2 piece swimsuit – you look fabulous!
Thank you Pearl! I really enjoyed seeing the reactions of those who asked me where I got it.
I really enjoyed this post. Everything looks amazing. So beautiful. Well done!!
I love reading about your sewing. Everything looks great on you. Well done!
Thank you Diane! 🙂
Zuri, really enjoyed your post! I actually have the Colette Wren pattern sitting untouched in my pattern stash, and am now encouraged to break it out and give it a go this weekend. =)
Could you explain a bit more how you add the clear elastic to the neckline? I’ve done this for waistbands, but can’t picture how to do it for a neckline. Do you attach it the entire length, or only partially? I’m not sure I want the entire neckline to gather, but I’d definitely love to avoid the gaping issue if at all possible. Thanks!
Hi Bethany! For the neckline I applied it at a 1:1 ratio with a VERY small amount of tension on the elastic. I’ve messed up before and pulled too hard. Doing that actually pulls up the waist line :(. If it is too loose, it will be like you didn’t do anything at all. I do it all the way around, after the shoulders have been attached and prior to basting the front together.
I really hope that makes sense! The next time I make one, I might take a video to explain what I did, how to do it, and the effect that it has!
Thanks for your explanation! And yes, a video would be awesome- I’ll plan to follow your blog to see if/ when you post it!
Yes! Please make sure you let the rest of us know how to do this! I hate gaping necklines!
MJ
Great explanation for the elastic. I am also now inspired to try the Wren (which I already own). Love your post. My favourite item is that two piece Sophie, looks fantastic on you. Super pin-up sexy! Thanks for posting your measurements, its really helpful because mine are nearly identical, and I’m totally inspired by your finished makes.
What a beautiful wardrobe you have!
Thanks Patricia <3
You rock the fit-and-flare dress. Love your confidence!
Thanks Nevada Grace!
I am so excited! I am shaped just like you, Miss Zuri. And I like the way a wrap front top looks, but when they all say “no gaping” I think, “Yeah, sure!!!”. I don’t have time or money to sew garments that “fail” and don’t fit – I can get that off the rack. But look at Miss Zuri in that Colette Wren!!!! Covers everything, no gaping. SOLD!!! Colette Wren, here I come! Thanks so much for your marvelous example and inspiration!
Thank you Julie! The real key is that clear elastic around the neckline. You will feel so secure!
You have it down to a fantastic fit I really like the wrap dress style on you very figure flattering & has given me the nudge to try it for me. Plus you can wear a skirt & blouse with style, makes me look dumpy even though I’m 5’7″. I think my inner me is a different figure than the outside me lol. I haven’t been sewing for my self very long but have noticed in the woven tops & jackets I’ve made there is extra in the back & shoulders a little off too. I don’t know how to make adjustments or what/ where to make them. Where would I look for free help? I don’t know if anyone around me sews so sadly no one to ask here.
I do like your style & positive attitude. Blessings,Baa
Hi Baa!
You should go ahead and do it. What I do for the extra space is pinch it out and dart it as I’m sewing it. If it is a knit, I take out a wedge from the middle before I cut my fabric if the muslin or the previous make had a gap. No technical answers from me!
Thanks I’ll give it a try I’m technically challenged need plain common sense. Lol been looking through the curvy sewing tutorials & found a wealth of information written plain & simple. Your style is an inspiration for me as our tastes are similar. Blessings Baa
Baa,
There is a lot of free help on the internet. This is a great place to start. I’m glad you found it. Also, try Jenny at http://www.cashmerette.com/
Jenny has a lot of links on the right side of the page. Start clicking on those and read through the blogs. You can sign up to read them your favorite blogs through your email. Some of the blogs also have links to follow. The online fabric stores have blogs you can follow as well.
Good Luck!
Mary in AZ
Thank you Zuri for such a thorough and entertaining post – all those pics and links kept me busy for a while! It’s was so helpful to see the creations you made with what pattern. I’m sure you’ve been a great inspiration to many women in your life who would love to make their own clothes too 🙂 But wail that you are so good at it! 🙂
Thanks Kathleen! I really like to think that I inspire those around me and I’m always willing/wanting to teach and help anyone who is willing to learn.
Wow! Wow! Zuri, I love your style, you pattern choices, your fabric choices. You look beautiful, sexy and classy. My intent is to sew jemore for ME this coming year and you are my inspiration! I am keeping this post for reference! Thank you, beautiful lady!
Thank you Jean! Please do take some time to make more for yourself this year, you wont regret it.
“ebullient” doesn’t begin to cover it. LOL
Like all of us, you have some fitting issues, but what you also have is a real sense of style. All of your efforts are well coordinated, fit well, and reflect you. I was energized just looking at your work.
Thank you Susan! I spent a long time trying to find my “style” in this world of fashion. I had to really get intentional and make my own!
Zuri, This is very inspiring!! Thank you for this post!
I’m of similar body shape and am thrilled to see how you have figured out the styles that suit you and sewed them all! I esp. love the fit n flare, pencil skirts and the faux wrap dresses on you!! Swimsuits are perfect!
And yes! why are activewear so expensive!!! Where do you buy your activewear fabrics from?
Thank you Kay! I really splurged on the print and got it from Spoonflower. The Sport Lycra is amazing. It is really durable and washes well. I highly recommend if there is a design that you must have and cant find it anywhere else. The rest came from Joann and fabric.com.
Seconding the Spoonflower Sport Lycra (though it can get a bit of white show-through when darker prints are stretched so I try to stick to medium-pale prints)! I’ve compiled a massive global list of activewear fabric suppliers if you really want to go all out! 🙂 http://blog.fehrtrade.com/inspiration/784/where-to-buy-exercise-fabric-a-global-list/
You certainly do know your style! It makes me so happy to see such a confident, joyful woman. Great job!!!!
You definitely have your style down. You rock every single outfit you’re pictured in!
😀 Thank you Valerie!
This is great, and very inspirational. I love your exercise wardrobe. Which patterns did you use for the tops?.
Thank you! I used the Papercut Pneuma Tank, Sewaholic Dunbar Tank, Seamwork Rio, and Fehr Trade Kimono Sweat.