Hello readers!
I’ve noticed that there are few outerwear patterns listed in our Pattern Review Directory, so even though this pattern is currently out-of-print, I decided it was a good time to share my recent me-made raincoat, especially as there are few hooded raincoat patterns. I used McCall’s 6517, which at first glance might not be appealing due to the envelope, but I don’t judge patterns by the covers and always look at the line drawings. This pattern is one that I’ve already sewn, with this being my second and most loved version.
Pattern Name: McCall’s 6517 (OOP)
Size Range: 16-24
What size did you make? 26/28
What are your…..
Measurements: 48-41-52
Body Shape: Pear-ish/Spoon
Height: 5’8
Bra size: 44D
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
I graded this pattern up, but also added a little more ease as I wanted to ensure that it was comfortable over bulky sweaters. I enlarged the sleeves, mostly in the bicep area, as well as the armscyes. I also added a lining, which isn’t included in the instructions for this unlined jacket. In addition to those alterations, I sewed belt carriers to the sides as one of the most annoying things about my previous version of this pattern is losing the belt.
The pattern adjustments did take some time, especially the full bicep adjustment on the sleeve. It may have taken longer to re-size, alter and cut out this jacket than to sew it.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
This jacket goes together quickly as it has few pattern pieces. If you leave off the pockets and lining — you’d probably have a jacket finished in a day. The fabric that I used for this raincoat is a water repellent canvas, which is a bit heavier than the pattern suggests, but it did end up working well with added ease. The Japanese poly lining I used really completes this jacket. My only complaint is that I wish I would have sewn the buttonholes on vertically rather than horizontally as the large buttonholes veer into the lining. I have somewhat of a preference for horizontal buttonholes, but I should have measured before I sewed and cut into the button band.
The instructions are straightforward and if you can sew a sleeved shirt, you can sew this jacket.
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?
I love the fit of this raincoat after my fit adjustments. In my previous version I only re-sized the pattern following my measurements and added width to the sleeves. It fits, but it is not the most comfortable of raincoats when I’m wearing bulkier clothing underneath it. This canvas version fits me exactly as I wanted it to and I’m very happy with the final fit. I doubt that the design is the most “flattering” on me, but it suits it’s purpose while looking a little more polished than the average raincoat.
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I may sew another version up someday in a lighter waterproof fabric for warmer weather. I’ve already adjusted the pattern to fit, so the pattern is ready for another go. I think I might add a zip the next time.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources or materials that helped you sew this piece up?
If you like a little more ease in your outerwear or have full biceps, you might want to make a muslin or tissue fit this pattern before cutting into your fabric. Otherwise, an unlined version is a beginner friendly project and a quick sew for experienced sewists.
I used this method for enlarging the sleeves and a method similar to this for lining this jacket.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
Size range: 4
Instructions: 5
Construction process: 5
Final fit: 5
Overall rating: 4.75
I love this raincoat! It turned out how I imagined and I’ve been wearing it quite frequently during the rainy season we’ve been enjoying here in Northern California. The canvas works well to both keep me warm and to keep the rain off me and the hood is awesome as it’s often too windy to pull out an umbrella. This is a staple in my wardrobe and I’m sure I’ll be wearing it for years to come.
Love the coat! And it looks fantastic on you. And I certainly don’t mind you including OOP patterns, usually they aren’t too hard to find if you put in some effort and really want a pattern. And I appreciate you including your measurements, so helpful!
Thanks, Suzanne! Yes, you can usually find the Big 4 OOP patterns easily online, thankfully!
This raincoat is beautiful. Thank you for sharing the details of your construction process. Seeing this completed garment has given me the courage I need to up-size a favorite Vogue pattern for a raincoat. I hope mine turns out as well as yours did. It represents a new project and process for me, so I’m excited and a bit apprehensive. But there is no choice — I’ve seen nothing available in RTW that comes near to my pattern and fabric choice. I’m taking the plunge right after the holidays and will use your report as a guide.
Thank you! We hope to see your finished raincoat! What I’ve found about sewing outerwear is that it seems harder than it actually is. I set some goals recently to sew both a wool coat and this raincoat and finished them both, all the while thinking — why did I put this off for so long? 🙂
I love that you show your interiors– your construction is beautiful. Your dog is cute!! And do you use weather-proofed fabrics or proof them yourself?
Thank you, L’Anne! This canvas was already water repellent when I bought it. I look for rainwear fabrics when I’m getting ready to sew a raincoat.
What I notice when looking at your Me-Made apparel is not only your beautiful ability to sew, but also that you use very nice fabric. I used to own a fine fabric store and the one comment people always made was how nice the fabric made up into their garment. I love your posts!
Thank you, Debbie! These days I tend buy nicer fabrics and less of them. This one, however, was only about $2.99/yd, so nice fabrics can be found very inexpensively sometimes. 🙂
Your changes made the jacket a perfect fit – well done! Red is such a marvellous colour on you, the whole outfit is stunning.
Thank you! I’m definitely having fun sewing with red fabrics this year!
You did a beautiful job on this jacket, Tanya! Well done,, you! Thanks for including links to how you increased the bicep dimensions – that’s an alteration I need to learn to do. While not new to sewing, I am new to sewing for this plus sized body I’ve developed into. Posts like this give me more confidence to step out and make some lovely things for myself!
Thank you, Jyl! The bicep adjustment takes a little time, but is well worth it. I’m glad to hear that we’ve inspired you to do some selfish sewing! 🙂
Beautiful coat Tanya! I’m always so impressed with your sewing -it’s always SO perfect 🙂 Beautiful, nice bright colour to wear on a rainy day!
Thank you, Kathleen! I’m always striving for perfection, but don’t always reach it! 🙂