Hello CSC! Today’s post from Paige is the latest installment in the Sewing for My Curves series. Enjoy!
My Body: My general proportions seem to be somewhere between a cello and an apple- depending on how my weight is fluctuating at that time, and does it ever fluctuate! My waist can go anywhere from 38 to 42 inches in the span of a week. Because of this, I tend to stick with looser styles. I love what a shift can do in avoiding fitting my waist. I also love the look of the nipped waist, but won’t pretend I don’t avoid it when I’m feeling lazy. I have a very long torso in comparison to my arm length and inseam. You would think I would be lowering waists like crazy, but my natural waist is actually a bit a higher than the standard measurement block. I think my lower torso is just very long.
Measurements: 40-41″ waist today (but it fluctuates from 38-42″), 46″ full bust, 38″ under bust, 48″ hips
Standard pattern size: I normally choose either a 24 or 22 in Big 4 sewing patterns and adjust from there. In indie patterns I follow the size chart. For example, my measurements put me in a Colette size 18 if I add ease to the waist.
RTW size: In ready to wear, it’s a total guessing game. In pants and dresses I can wear anywhere from a 14 to size 20 depending on the store, cut, and fit. For tops I normally try on an XXL,but that can be too big at times.
Bra size: My bra size is very dependent on the brand. French brands like Chantelle fit my breast shape best. I usually buy a 36/38 F or DDD.
Adjustments I make: I try and make it a point to always toile new-to-me patterns. While it’s not the most instantly gratifying experience, I always wear the garments I’ve adjusted more. Because of the interesting torso issues I practically always need to lengthen my tops. There’s a sweet spot I like the hem to hit which is below the top button of my jeans, but not completely covering the crotch. I get really nitpicky about this length when sewing for myself, probably because it’s nearly impossible to find tops that fit this way off the rack. I don’t raise the waistline on pants, they seem to fit rather well (and I don’t sew them often, anyway). But I do need to shorten the length. At 5’8”, petite pants fit me best. I also end up raising the waistline on most fitted dresses. For all my lengthening and shortening work, I use the lines as marked on the pattern to adjust.
I always need a full bust adjustment. I’m an E/F cup depending on the brand, and nearly no patterns draft for that. I also need a box dart move. I have most of my breast tissue on the lower half of my breast, and that affects where I need the apex point. It’s a super simple adjustment that makes a world of difference.
I use a swayback adjustment to help with the pooling of fabric above my butt. While I have no shortage of inches in my hip measurement, I wouldn’t call most of it hips. I’ve been endowed with a strong, muscular, bubble butt. The swayback adjustment helps nearly all tops and dress fit better.
I often add a bit of ease to the waist. While the cello is the cousin of the the hourglass body shape (the hourglass seems to match up to most measurements given on patterns), it’s a bit less extreme in the the difference between the waist and the other measurements. Because I also carry a good deal of weight in my stomach, I make sure to know my sitting waist measurement as well. What’s the point of sewing a dress you can’t sit in, right? People with more squish tend to have more spread while sitting. Wearing your toile around the house can help you figure out what real life alterations you’ll need for movement in your garment.
I have a broad back, and often need to make a broad back adjustment. Sometimes my broad back issues can be fixed when I do my full bust adjustment. Other times I need to do the secondary broad back adjustment.
Things I love to sew:
Shift Dresses: I have what I call “the summer of the Colette Laurel.” While many people loathed this pattern, I loved the fit challenges. Did I have to make more toiles than I would’ve liked? Yes. Did I end up with a perfectly fitting pattern? Totally. It’s a trade off. My love of shift dresses since then has only grown.
Fancy Tiger Fen, Victory Patterns Hazel, True Bias Colfax
Swimsuits and Intimates: While I’m not pro in this area, I totally enjoy sewing up fun lingerie and swim suits. I have yet to tackle anything super supportive, though.
My Sophie Swimsuit bottoms and DIY triangle bikini top
1940’s Bralette, Floral bra
Historical Costuming: I’m a huge history nerd, and love the costumes of the 18th century. I help run a local group dedicated to sewing historical costumes. I always find it funny how quickly the preferred body type can change to suit fashion. While actresses like Keira Knightley and Gwyneth Paltrow have portrayed the regency ideal, the ideal body type was much more robust.
Colette Laurel for Great Gatsy Sewing Challenge
Floaty Tops: If I must wear pants. At least my shirt can be comfy right?
True Bias Roscoe, Sew Caroline Waterfall Tank, Colette Laurel, Sew Caroline Downtown Tunic
Fit and Flare: When I’m feeling up for a fit challenge. I totally love fit and flare patterns. They easily work over my big butt and stomach.
Simplicity 1800
Dixie DIY Bonnell
Colette Moneta, Simplicity 1810, Colette Macaron, Colette Hawthorn
Vintage Patterns: I have way too many vintage patterns. I love sewing them, and find they often fit me better. If you’re similar to my body type, Simplicity Slenderette and other half size patterns work wonderfully one me.
I really enjoyed your post. You and I are very similar in size and shape. I’d never heard of the cello shape until I found this blog, but that seems to fit. My measurements are hourglass, but without a big difference between waist and hips/bust. Like you, I have a higher waist, so I’m round in the middle. I think I’m 48-42-47 and I’m also about 5’8″.
I sewed a little when I was younger, but back then I was a vanity size 8 pear, and I never learned how to adjust patterns for fit. I mostly sewed my Halloween costumes. I took a few fashion classes where we made a couple patterns from a dress form. Now, 15 years later, I’m about to take up sewing again, so this will be my first time sewing clothes for every day wear and learning to adjust patterns for real bodies.
Eventually, I’d like to try some Regency and Late Victorian patterns, but I figure I’ll start with simpler dress patterns first. Thanks so much for sharing!
Really, really enjoyed this post! It was fun (and instructive) to read your thoughts and see all the lovely garments/outfits.
Oh my gosh, we’re shaped SO SIMILARLY. If you took everything you said and applied it to a 6’+ figure you’d get me. It’s so nice to see someone shaped similarly looking great in clothes… and having very solid details about how she achieved that. Thank you so much!
I have wanted to make the “Hazel” dress…but figured there was no way it would work for me…now I know it can …
Thank You so very much…
C
Thank you for this great post. The garments are so lovely and presented so well. I appreciate the organization of your material and all of your helpful ideas. Once again, you stress that a great looking garment for any occasion means extra fitting work and educating ourselves to as many ways of working with our “problem areas” as we can.
You do beautiful work. I love all of these, but the Bralette bra is especially beautiful.
Do you think there is a typo in the post? 5’3″ not 5’8″?
I’m enjoying your post very much, and will take time to read it more thoroughly.
If she has a very long torso (which she mentions), she could be 5’8″ and still have petite pants fit her best. 🙂
I’m just shy of 5’2″ and sometimes I can’t wear petite pants at all because they’re too short. Isn’t it funny how proportions can vary so radically??
Nope, I’m 5’8″. I have a petite leg inseam and a very long torso. Think like more ladylike Michael Phelps. ha.
Hi Paige! We are shaped very similarly. Your fitting and sewing are superb. Please, please…where do you find your ready to wear belts? I can never find what I need in my size. Anyone???
I can recommend JCrew online – I have a 40 – 42″ waist (depending) and their extended size belts fit me comfortably!
Thank you, Jenny. That’s my waist size as well.
Target sometimes has XXL belts in store that will fit me. Old navy as well.
I love late 18th century fashion and I love your first pic under historical costuming. I haven’t really found any great online resources for making your own – would you be able to recommend some?
I would say the best place to start are some of the more well-made patterns. JP Ryan has amazing stuff, as well as At The sign of the golden feather. As far as fabrics go, Wm. Draper Booth is the go-to source for most people in the reenactment community.
Colleen check out Folkwear Pattersn: http://www.folkwear.com/ They have an assortment of vintage and historical patterns available. There is a company in England that also produces historical patterns: http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/englishsite.html
Wow, I think we have a VERY similar body shape/size! I really appreciate your post! Thank you!
Really enjoyed reading this post. Keep up the great work!
You’re incredibly talented and a beautiful person. Thanks for sharing!
YOU are a BEAUTIFUL PERSON! Thank YOU for you honesty and sharing your heart and how you achieve the best fit for you! I am greatly encouraged! Happy Sewing!
Thanks for sharing! I love seeing all of your makes and knowing what types of adjustments you have to make.
I always enjoy your posts Paige – your pics, links, organization must take you quite some time to construct but WOW how helpful it is to see what material you’ve used with what pattern (and links to them all!) and how it hangs on you. Love your vintage costumes especially. What a brilliant sewer you are 🙂
Lovely post and lovely creations! I read the article linked about ideal body styles of the Regency period. LOL, skinny girls were seen as “consumptive”! I’m feeling really good about myself right now! I also love historical fiber arts. I have the JPRyan stays pattern but it hasn’t been top on my list to sew yet. Very inspiring!
Ruthi
Well done! And I recognize some of those fabrics in your lovely dresses. Cheers!
Thank you for explaining your pattern adjustments. I agree with you regarding half sizes. I miss them. My mother wore half sizes in RTW and I believe that when I started sewing (about 50 years ago) I had actually purchased a few.
Love, love, love your colorful wardrobe! Not sure which is my favorite – would love all of them in my closet! Thank you for pointing out that it takes many makes to find the final fit – I have a problem with wanting instant gratification (why I stopped sewing for myself for so many years). Now I know it just takes a little patience and then you have a pattern that you can make many, many times.