Hello again, Curvy Sewing Collective! Today I’m here with my take on the CSC’s fascinating Sewing for My Curves series.
We’d love to hear from you, too! How do you sew for your curves? What adjustments do you typically make? What are your favorite/go-to styles? Email us at mail@curvysewingcollective.com to join in this series!
Here I go…
Measurements, body type and sizing
- Measurements: Upper Bust: 39″ Full Bust: 42″ Waist: 35″ Hip:45″ Height: 5’7″
- Body type: Pear-ish? Whatever the body type it is that causes trying on pants to be a traumatic experience.
- Attributes: smaller bust, swayback, high waist, a bit of a belly these days, wide hips, wide but not particularly round butt, somewhat short legs for my height, thick thighs, saddle bags, full biceps
- RTW size: all over the map, anywhere from a 12 to a 20, depending! Probably average a 14 on top, 16 on bottom
My typical adjustments
I am still figuring out what works for me, realizing that it differs greatly based on pattern company and garment type. After re-reading Tanya’s post, I realized that I make many of the same adjustments she does!
In patterns, I find that I end up choosing sizes anywhere from a 12 to a 20, depending.
- Grading between sizes: I typically grade between sizes, going up at least one size, often two on the bottom half or at the hip, particularly for more fitted garments.
- Bodice length: I often find that I have to shorten the bodice length on dresses or shirts that have a waistband or waist seam to accommodate my high waist.
- Swayback: Many times I also have to do a slight swayback adjustment to avoid that horizontal wrinkle at my lower back.
- Side seams: For pants, I often let out the side seams by reducing the seam allowance at the hips and thighs so I don’t have pulling.
- Curved waistband and yoke: For jeans and pants with a yoke and waistband, I have often had to curve the waistband and/or take a wedge or two out of the back yoke so that I don’t have the dreaded back waistband gape.
- Rise: I like a higher rise on pants both for backside and love handle coverage, so sometimes I have to raise it a bit.
- Hip pockets: I often omit hip pockets, particularly in-seam pockets, which I find to be bulky and bunchy on my hips/thighs. They make me self-conscious about that part of my body and are often to tight for me to use anyway, so I say, “Be gone!” Alternatively, if a pattern has slash pockets or curved front hip pockets, I will often change the construction so that they are a one-layer pocket, which reduces the bulk in the thigh/hip area. Check out my one-layer pocket tutorial!
- Skirt length: Often I find myself lengthening skirts an inch or two. Although my legs are a bit short for my height, I find that the length I do have is mainly in the upper part, so skirts can feel short to me.
- Bicep adjustment: At least 50% of the time I benefit from a full bicep adjustment on blouses so I don’t have a sausage arm effect.
My favorite types of patterns:
I like to stick with simple, clean lines, not a lot of ruffles or fluffy details. I feel like I am still figuring out what exactly my style is (I don’t have a style as distinct as Mary or Tanya) and sometimes I can be easily distracted by the newest sewing pattern or style (squirrel!, bubbles! shiny thing!, etc.). Also, the climate where I currently live (Bangkok, Thailand) dictates what I wear to a certain extent, in the sense that it’s all summer clothing. I’m sure my list would be different if I were back in the land of four seasons. Anywho, here’s what I gravitate towards these days:
Pencil/straight skirts
Conventional wisdom might say that a girl with wide hips should avoid wrapping herself tightly in that region, but I am loving this style. I feel like it balances my pear shape and makes me look a bit more proportional. I prefer knee-length (no minis for me!) and high-waisted skirts that smooth over my love handles. Occasionally I wear these skirts with tops tucked into them, or with a cropped sweater, but more often than not I am wearing them with the shirt untucked.
Below are some skirts that I’ve made that have gotten a lot of wear. I’ve also got a list of high-waisted pencil skirts in my to-sew queue, too: Style Arc Taylor, Style Arc Fay, Colette Beignet, Bluegingerdoll Betsy, Delia Creates Pleated Pencil Skirt…
Left to right: Tilly and the Buttons Arielle, Deer and Doe Brume
Slimmer fitting pants
I am still pretty new to the world of pants/trouser sewing. I have a couple pairs of RTW pants from Ann Taylor Loft- the curvy fit- that I wear a lot, but I am trying to bulk up my collection of me-made trousers. The styles I typically go for are sleeker, without hip pockets that bunch or gape. Bonus if the front is flat or the trousers have a side zip. I also adore elastic waistbands/pull-on trousers, especially if it doesn’t look like I am wearing an elastic waistband! Patterns made for a stretch woven usually work well for me, too. Comfort rules.
Below are some of the slim/sleek pants I’ve made, but I’m eager to try some more patterns, including the embarrassingly named Hot Patterns Tummy-Taming Trousers and Style Arc Flat Bottom Flo, as well as the more subtly named Style Arc Claudia.
Left to right: Style Arc Barb, Gertie’s Cigarette Pants
Basic tops
I tend towards simple lines on tops, sometimes more fitted, but sometimes a boxy top. I try to wear the boxier tops with sleeker bottoms like the pencil skirt or sleek pants I described above. I love cut-on sleeves because they are easier to sew and less likely to squeeze my arms/require a full bicep adjustment. Lazy, I know. They’re also super cool in Bangkok’s hot weather.
Left to right: New Look 6107, Seamwork Akita, Made by Rae Beatrix
PS: Get a new pose, Meg.
Clockwise from top left: Marilla Walker Maya, Marilla Walker Roberts, New Look 6808
Fit-and-flare dresses
I am less of a dress wearer than a pants wearer, but if I do wear a dress, I tend to go for a defined waist and fuller skirt.
Clockwise from top left: By Hand London Anna, Colette Moneta, Cashmerette Washington, Deer and Doe Sureau, By Hand London Anna, Butterick 6168
I am not at all a fan of the BHL Anna. Almost every version I’ve seen of it makes the wearer look like they have a droopy monoboob. But I have to say that yours really does look great! I love the shorter length and fuller skirt, and, well, proper bra support underneath. Great job.
Love this! I am a newbie sewist and trying to figure out fit…wealth of info!
Meg, you’ll figure out your style….it’s not a pattern, it’s found by just trying lots of different silhouettes…but you know that brights make you shine….and you’re short haircut, with that big beautiful smile makes you look stunning in EVERYTHING……love reading your posts! From a modern/edgy woman….with turquoise framed specs!
Thanks, Laura! Even though I mostly know what I like and don’t, I still like to experiment a little bit!
I make almost all of those adjustments too! I love your wardrobe – a lovely mix of black and bright colours, and classic and modern shapes!
Thanks, Gillian!!
Meg, I really like all of your clothing. I am just getting back into sewing and have made lots of muslins adjusting for my curves. I was wondering how you do your swayback adjustment on a top. I have read several different ways it can be done and not sure I understand the reasoning for each different version.
Hmmm- I can’t say I’ve tried too many different methods for doing the swayback adjustment, so I can’t speak to the reasoning for the different ways. I just kind of pinch out a bit at the center back, tapering to nothing at the side seams.
Great outfits! Love all of your sandals btw!
Thanks, Harper! I am such a creature of habit- when I find shoes Iike, I buy them in all of the colors!!
I’ve really enjoyed reading your blog and all the notes you have on different patterns! Living in a similarly always warm climate, its been really nice to see all your choices, especially fabric!
Thanks, Jessica! Yeah, fabric choice is huge when you live in a humid place. I can’t wear many non-natural fibers…
Meg, I am quite similar to your figure, except with a little more on top (and fuller hips) and a longer waist. I think the key with the pencil skirts and the slim pants that you pull off so successfully is that you are making/buying them in darker colors.
Your Anna dress looks so much better than my “test run” – I think I need to go back and do an FBA, and make the skirt fuller, like you did (right off the pattern skirt looks really slim on me, and sheath dresses just make me look like a big chunk.).
Yeah, I hadn’t thought about my color scheme very much, but it really does tend to be dark bottoms with bright tops!
I like the full or circle skirt for the BHL Anna. they felt less clingy around the belly than the paneled skirt..
You are a very good seamstress with great taste in fabric choices. As a pants fitting teacher, I can tell you that the Style Arc Barb pants, you need to shorten the front crotch length a little. You can simply do this at the waist now that the pants are made. Remove the waist band (you can probably just release the stitching from front side to front side) and pull up the pants in the front until the ‘smile lines’ go away then pin the front band in place.
Thanks for the tip, Karen! I’ll try that on my next pair of Barb pants!
I love your posts — and go to school on your choices of pattern and style. It helps that the camera loves you! Funny: I “snipped” the pic of you wearing a black dress and holding the black cat — and sent it to a friend who wears navy blue uniforms and just adopted a light colored cat. Glad you have good taste, glad that you sew, and esp. glad you post!
Thanks so much, Susan!! Ha, my cat lady is showing in that photo, isn’t it?
I love seeing your garments Meg! You do such a great job at fitting and choosing a great fabric to go with your patterns. My measurements are so similar to yours but I’m more boxy (41 X 35 X 41 and I’m 5’8″ tall with very long legs – a box on sticks 🙂 I always think (mistakenly!) that I’m going to sneak by without an FBA and learn that NO that will absolutely not work and then do my FBA adding a side dart that starts at the waist and swings upward to the bust and love the fit. For pants I’ve found Sandra Betzina’s pants perfect for me – you might want to investigate those too.
Thanks, Kathleen! I’ve never tried that type of dart you describe, but it sounds like it could be a really nice design feature. And I’ll check out Sandra Betzina’s pants patterns- thanks for the tip!
AHHH, I love all of these outfits! I especially love how you pair bright, bold colors with simpler lines so that you are colorful, but not overwhelming.
Thanks, Jennifer! I never thought of it that way, but it’s true. I think I subliminally try to pair a loud/bright/busy print with darker solid colors and simple lines.
I love all the clothes you do. They fit well and compliment you. I particularly like the by Hand London Anna dress you made in turquoise and blue with big flower print. Wow! Also like the pencil skirt that buttons down the side and the light flowery New Look 6107 top.
Thanks, Christina! I love that Anna dress, too. It’s one of my favorite things I’ve sewn.
The pencil skirt with the buttons is the Tilly and the Buttons Arielle- I love it! It’s on my list to make again. So is NL6107- such a cute blouse.
Love your sewing. Great job. You look fantastic.
Thanks, Margaret! PS: I am a Margaret, too!