Pattern Hack Tutorial: Moneta + Washington

The Moneta dress pattern from Colette Patterns is a popular pattern and for very good reason. Its boatneck and gathered skirt make it beautiful on a number of different figures, but finding the right fit for a large bust can be problematic! Try hacking the Moneta neckline and skirt to Cashmerette’s Washington dress bodice for a better and less frustrating fit!

To get started you’ll need the following supplies:

• Moneta dress pattern
• Washington dress pattern
• Pattern paper (I use Swedish tracing paper, but your favorite works too.)
• Scissors
• Clear ruler
• Tape measure
• Pencil

Step one: Trace the Washington dress bodice pattern onto your blank pattern paper leaving off the markings for the neckline.

Step two: Remove the Washington dress pieces and lay the Moneta pieces underneath your tracings, being careful to match the shoulder at the neckline. Your center lines might not match up and that’s okay!Step three: Trace the neckline from the Moneta pattern to the center line of the Washington dress pattern. You’ll repeat this for both front and back pieces.Here’s how my front and back pieces looked after making all the changes. Be sure to add markings to indicate that the piece is cut on the fold, as well as markings for all of your changes on the pattern pieces.Step four: To alter the Washington dress neckline, trim piece to account for the different in shape of the Moneta neckline. You could skip this step and finish the neckline in the same manner as the Moneta pattern (turn and stitch), but adding the neckline trim piece creates a nice finished edge and helps keep the neckline from stretching out.

To adjust the neckline trim, start by pulling out a flexible tape measure and measuring how long the neckline curve is on both front and back of your new bodice pieces. Also, measure the neckline of the Washington dress pieces.For my size the Moneta neckline is 26.5 inches and the Washington dress neckline is 28 inches. This is roughly a 5% decrease in neckline length (26.5/28=.946).

Now lay out the Washington dress neckline trim piece and measure the length for your size.Multiply this length by .95 and you have your new neckline trim length! Trace the Washington dress neckline trim to the new length.Whew! Now you’re all set for Step 5: cut out the pieces to your dress using the Washington dress sleeves, your hacked up bodice and neckline pieces, and the Moneta skirt. Sew it all together using the directions for the Washington dress top and the Moneta skirt and marvel at how well your new dress fits!