I was asked to review a new pattern from Simplicity, #8345, a new one from Ashley Nell Tipton. Simplicity describes the pattern as follows: “Ashley Nell Tipton bodycon dresses are sized for stretch knits… One and two-piece dresses have optional color or fabric blocking to flatter your curves. Straps are designed in two widths and cross over in back.”
The size range I chose was for 18W (40 Euro) to 34W (60 Euro). This size range goes from: bust 40″ to 56″, waist 33″ to 51.5″ and hip 42″ to 58″. I thought this was a good spread of sizes. There is also a smaller sized pattern, but I didn’t fit into those sizes.
I cut the size 20W, grading out to a 22W for the waist and hip. I could have taken it back in at the hip as I fit into the 20W, but wasn’t that keen for the more figure hugging shape! My measurements are: bust 41”, waist 38” and hip 44”. I’m 5’2” and, although I used to be an hour glass shape, I think I have fallen more into the rectangle shape nowadays.
I didn’t make that many changes to the pattern, although, with hindsight, I should have shortened the bodice just a little, as it is wrinkled a bit at the back. I shortened the skirt as I do with most clothes. Once I had made the bodice, I tried it on and had to bring the whole side seam in as it was shaped for someone that is more of an hourglass. Overall, the adjustments were quick and easy to make and probably only took 15 minutes to redraw lines and unpick my side seams and resew.
Surprisingly, this pattern is made for knits! Simplicity suggests: jersey, spandex blends, stretch velvet, two-way stretch. I was all ready for a structured dress and had practised my “zipper insertion technique,” but I didn’t need it. Yay! I was pleasantly surprised and overall, it has come out as a very comfortable dress because of that. I used a red stretch velvet as I couldn’t find another decently weighted stretch that I thought would suit and secretly I’ve always wanted a velvet dress (I’ll be making something else in velvet soon, as I’m a convert!). The only problem with it is that it is very hard to press the seams, so they don’t sit as nicely as I’d like them to.
The construction of this dress was very simple, I must say. It relies on a little bit of negative ease in the bodice so slight miscalculations in my measuring or the pattern aren’t noticed. The instructions were easy to read and understand, and I followed them to the letter. The lining of the bodice is meant to be just tacked down to the waist seam and I thought that looked unfinished and a bit thrown together. If I ever made another version of this dress, I would change that and make it look a bit better. I also found the middle skirt pattern piece is the same for the front and back and while the back is curved and looks ok when stretched over my rear, the front is all saggy and should have been a straighter piece. You can see this in the photos, the front skirt doesn’t sit well. I found this to be a bit weird and didn’t like the resulting shape at all.
Sadly, I don’t think this pattern is the one for me. I never wear tight things and feel very self-conscious in it. I also think, for a rectangle shape, it isn’t very flattering. I feel like a “linebacker” or an inverted triangle which isn’t a look I particularly like. I also don’t have occasions to wear something like this so it was an experiment, and good fun, but it just isn’t my kind of dress. Possibly use this bodice and hack a 1/3 circle or ½ circle skirt onto it might look better on me, and maybe go up a size????? I’m still unsure about this.
This dress, I think, overall, is a success – it is simple and sews up nicely and would definitely look lovely on hourglass shapes. People who have special occasions to wear something this fitted, or are used to this aesthetic, would be comfortable with this. Maybe just not me.
Ratings for this pattern:
Size Range – 5 out of 5: Up to a 56″ bust and 58″ hip is pretty good.
Instructions – 5 out of 5: It’s a simple dress, so there wasn’t anything tricky to be explained.
Construction Process – 4 out of 5: The inside of the bodice just looks a bit unfinished and I’m unsure about the shape of the centre panel in the skirt front…
Final Fit – 3 out of 5: I just don’t like this shape on me. On other people, it would look amazing.
Overall Rating – 3 out of 5: overall this is a good pattern with a few small issues. It ends up fitting OK but it’s just not my new favourite pattern. I would still recommend this to some other curvy sewers.
Thank you for stepping out and reviewing a dress outside of your comfort zone. I think you look terrific. Great fabric and color choices only add to that. And while I see what you do in the front of the skirt, in the back it makes you look va va voom! I like the criss-cross straps too. You might try adjusting the front seams and/or front panel to smooth it out. Either way, you have a really special dress for that occasion that we never plan for. (Every single Christmas I kick myself for not having thought ahead and having nothing nice to wear to some party.) On the other hand, you’re right. The bodice would ALSO look really nice with a circle type skirt, maybe for next time.
This dress is beautiful and you look gorgeous in it. Hang on to it because you never know if there is a special occasion for which this dress would be perfect. I do not think you look like a linebacker at all! I have sloping narrow shoulders so I so wish I had your shoulders!
I think that dress looks good on you. I love the red velvet also. The only problem I have with her patterns is that they don’t seem very bra friendly. Considering we curvy girls tend to be large busted. Finding a strapless bra for certain sizes can be difficult and expensive.
Thank you for reviewing this pattern. I also think you look fabulous in this dress and you should consider it a keeper! You definitely picked a fabric color that enhances your beauty. For years I would never dare wear anything sleeveless, but I’ve finally let that go. I live in a very hot, muggy climate and now I experience my own personal summer year round. ? I might wear a little bolero if I felt too uncomfortable or was dressing up for an evening event. I think you should definitely keep that pattern!
I think you look awesome in that dress! (So often we’re so much harsher on ourselves than anyone else.)
The color and dress are really beautiful on you! If you’re very uncomfortable, and you have enough fabric, perhaps a peplum? That IS a good look on some rectangle shapes, it fluffs out the hips a bit to help kinda-sorta fool the eye into seeing an hourglass. It doesn’t work on my particular rectangle because I carry most of my weight on the belly, but your body is much better distributed and I think it’d work. Your shoulders are lovely, as are your arms-and if you are uncomfortable showing them, then by all means a cover up is something you should have 🙂 I truly wouldn’t have given it a second glance before seeing it actually made up and on someone, thanks for charging on even when in the end it just wasn’t your thing!
I think you are a little hard on yourself. I understand that you don’t feel comfortable in this fitted style…I can relate to this, but you look really nice in this. You don’t look like a linebacker at all! Lovely colour and fabric.
As I’m also 5’@’ with a body morphing from hourglass to rectangle as well (thanks so much menopause & hypothyroidism! ;-p), it’s encouraging to see that there are style options. I’d be outside my comfort zone with the shoulder style, but you look great in it. The color is perfect on you too.
Does some of your dislike of the bare shoulder issue stem from your petite height? I am significantly shorter than you, and once I stopped wearing skirts above my knees, I always saw rugby player shoulders when I looked in the mirror when wearing a strappy dress, unless that dress was floor length. It was a ‘proportional’ thing, fed largely by faulty perspective. I now have a visual impairment, so can’t see myself in the mirror, or only with difficulty, and happily, bare my shoulders in summer – and no one has yet pointed at me or laughed in the street, so I regret those years spent covering my arms.
The bodice is *beautiful* on you, and that alone would make the pattern a keeper for me. Different strap arrangements, as others have suggested, or a shrug, bolero or jacket if you *really* feel you must, might help you feel better BUT bear in mind it would be extremely sexy to wear quite a severe jacket over a red velvet dress with a bodice like this one has! Oh wait a minute, it *is* a red velvet dress …
I can see what you think are issues with the skirt, but I’m wondering if you simply have a much firmer, flatter tummy than you assume you have, and / or than the pattern is drafted for. No bad thing! That said, this bodice style would look simply wonderful with *any* sort of circle skirt, the more dramatic the better for evening/party wear, or a simple half or three-quarter circle for a summer dress.
Thanks for sharing your experience trying a style outside your comfort zone. I relate- I generally don’t like very figure hugging clothes either! That being said, your dress is fantastic and you look awesome in it!
I am much larger and do not show bare arms etc. So it would not be for me, unless covered with a jacket. I am so proud of Ashley winning Project Runway!!! Curvy girls rule!
However, I don’t understand why you do not see how flattering this is on YOU! You are stunning in it. Aren’t we all to critical of ourselves? It is a keeper for you. Thanks for reviewing the pattern.
The color and fabric are beautiful on you. I think the style looks good on you, too, but if you don’t feel confident in it, changing it up a bit is probably a good idea.. If the snug fit bothers you, consider layering it with a hip length jacket. I think the slimmer skirt on this dress would look terrific with a longish jacket.
There’s no way this dress would work for me, as my arms are not going bare outside my home. Many clothing and patterns have very short sleeves, or are sleeveless. Is this an issue for anyone else?
From someone with narrow shoulders, I am envious of what you call the linebacker look? That red velvet dress is YOU! Love it!
It’s a beautiful dress and you did a great job!
I have broad shoulders. Whenever I wear a neckline that is wider at the chest and narrower at the back of my neck, it makes me look like a linebacker. Raglan sleeves do the same thing to me, too. It’s that diagonal visual line. I’m never happy with it. Perhaps you can change the strap configuration? Just make them go straight over your shoulders from front to back, rather than being in a diagonal going up your chest..?
I know what you mean about being a rectangle – I am one too. I think that changing the skirt would probably make all the difference. Even with the diagonal line at the shoulders, the circle skirt would help balance it out. The bodice has a super-cute shape and it fits you perfectly. You really did a great job!
Overall, i like it and it is flattering.
Since you feel a bit self-conscious: What about changing just the straps…experiment with shaped straps (kind of a D shape when flat) or reattaching the straps in a different configuration (coming to a v in the back) or adding more straps like they are currently doing in fashionable lingerie (keep the straps where they are and add a v strap coming from center front …) Switch it up entirely by adding a sheer top bodice.
Make yourself a cute bolero or capelet.
This is a lovely dress on you! Great fit – very glamorous 🙂
I think you look beautiful in this dress. I totally understand why you might feel self-conscious if it isn’t your normal style. The bodice fits you well. I hope you will make another version with a circle skirt, you might love it. Thanks for the review.
Thanks for a very fair review of something you decided wasn’t really you in the end! I agree with the previous commenter that it looks fab on you – I didn’t think much of the pattern pictures you included but seeing it on you makes me see much more potential in it.
Hi Kathryn,
I see what you mean about the front seams but as far as looking good, I just wanted to say I think you look lovely in this dress.
I know what you mean about wearing something different but I just wanted to encourage you by saying I think you look absolutely stunning in it!