Howdy CSC! I’m here to talk about the newest pattern in Cashmerette’s line up, the Dartmouth Top!
When I got the email announcing Jenny’s newest pattern I immediately bought it as this style of top is so wonderful to wear, but hard to buy when you have a busty figure.* I’ve bought many commercially made fixed wrap tops in my life, but they always gap under the strain of a full bosom. Not the Dartmouth Top!
As with all of Cashmerette’s patterns the size range is pretty great for the curvy sewing crowd. The Dartmouth Top goes from a size 12 C/D cup (40/32/42) to a size 28 G/H cup (58/48/58). I made a size 14G/H at the bust and graded out to a size 18 at the hip based on my measurements (42/36/47). Besides grading between sizes the only other adjustment I made was to use the size 16 sleeve as my biceps are generally a size larger than my shoulders in most patterns. Blending sizes is one of the easiest ways you can customize your sewing and make clothing that fits so much better than ready to wear!
Overall I’m pretty happy with the fit I achieved on this first crack at the pattern. This knit is maybe a tad heavier than I should have used and made the front hem feel a bit bulky. In future versions I might trim one layer of the front hem so the machine only has to deal with 3 layers of knit instead of 4. My main complaint is the back hem rides up a tad while the front hem seems a little too roomy in the hip. I’m also never certain if I should tuck the wrap under my breasts or let it sit across. Ultimately I tucked it underneath, but my husband wasn’t so sure I was right. Either way that wrap did not budge all day and I never flashed anyone, so perhaps it is personal preference.
I was also able to cut the entire pattern out of a 46 inch length of fabric! It look some creative shifting of the pattern pieces and piecing together the neckband from the scraps, but I was thrilled to make it work when I realized my 1.5 yard cut of fabric has shrunk in the dryer!
I’m a little torn on the length of the Dartmouth Top. I am 5’6″, the height Cashmerette pattern’s are drafted to, but untucked the top feels really long. Probably because I wear a lot of skirts and it hits at an odd spot with a skirt. However the long length was perfect for wearing tucked in. If you have a booty, then you know my struggle to have tops stay tucked in all day. Usually they creep right up until I have a nice pool of extra fabric at the waist, but this shirt stayed put all day, even while moving around!
Like all of Cashmerette’s patterns the instructions were very easy to follow and the top came together very easily. If you’ve made her Concord or Appleton patterns you can tackle this too. In fact I pulled out my copy of the Appleton pattern to compare and while they are both wrap patterns, I found the Dartmouth Top to provide much better coverage of my chest. You can tell they came from the same or similar block, but there are enough differences for me to recommend owning them both!
Size Range (1-5) – 5, love the cup sizes!
Instructions (1-5) – 5, easy and clear
Construction Process (1-5) – 4, love the concept, but wish there was less bulk at the front hem
Final Fit (1-5), – 4, solid out of the envelope, but will tweak a bit in future versions
Overall Rating (1-5) + Explanation – 4.5, another wonderful pattern from Cashmerette and worth the purchase if you too love a fixed wrap top!
I already have a dress muslin in progress and my mind has been spinning with fun ways to play with the Dartmouth pattern!
*I bought the pattern on my own, but Cashmerette ultimately gave me a refund in exchange for my review. Really nice of her because I thought it was worth the purchase.
I’m sold. getting my copy now!
Yes! It’s a great pattern!
Has anyone tried adjusting the bust *down* on Cashmerette patterns? I have been wanting a wrap top, but my cup size is an A/B. Unfortunately, I also have a big band, which means the ones I find in the Big Four usually don’t go big enough. Is it easier to size up or size down?
In the knit patterns, you can probably get away without altering them – the only thing you’d need to do on the knits with a waist seam (Turner/Washington) is straighten out the curved waist seam (which is curved to allow for a big bust). In the woven patterns, you might need to do a small bust adjustment: here’s a tutorial: http://www.cashmerette.com/2015/10/small-bust-adjustment.html
Thanks so much! I love how the patterns look and I really want to support Cashmerette.
Beautiful shirt. The print looks good on you and the completed garment really highlights your great sewing skills. As to over/under, it might just be a style choice but IMO it depends on the angle of the CF neckline from the shoulder & where the overlaps attach to the empire waist. If overlap attaches closer to the CF-under is ok; side seam-over.
Thanks Claudia. I think it also depends on where the wrap hits your bust. For me it works better under.
Just lovely! Pattern, fit, fabric. Your beautiful confidence shows how well it suits you!. Your combination shows the pattern detail better than the ones on the Cashmerette web site.
Aw, thanks Dee! I am super pleased with how it worked.
That’s really useful. Thank you. I have a tip for your hemline issue. I often have to blend to a bigger size at the hip and I’ve realised that most of the extra width I need is in the back. I grade out the back but not the front.
Yes, I’m probably do that on a future version.
The extra-long length would actually be a bonus for me; I have a freakishly long torso.
YAY! Hope it works well for you!
Love it…but I really want to know about that skirt! I really really really love the skirt!
Hi Ruby! It is the Gabriola Skirt from Sewaholic. Not a big size range, but I fit in the biggest size and it is such a great pattern.
Hi can I ask did you make your skirt too as I would love to know the pattern
Hi Jill! The skirt is Gabriola from Sewaholic. I just shortened it to knee length. Love this skirt. So great to wear.
Jessica: You look GAWGEOUS!!!! Thanks so much for writing this review. I too have what the French refer to as “a full balcony” and all my RTW wrap or cross-over tops don’t wrap – they just gap. I was very skeptical of a pattern that would work – but you prove that those Cashmerette folks know exactly what they are doing. I am skeptical no longer – I will now buy all of their patterns that I see that I like, without doubting that they will work for curvy me. You look FAB! Thanks so much for “blazing the trail” for all of us. Also, good to know that I don’t need 3 yards of fabric for every top I make, as we know those beautiful remnants are hard to resist! And yes, I want that fabric, too!
Hi Julie! This is a definite win and doesn’t gap at all. Hope it works as well for you!
I, too, have the age-old question: Where does the wrap go, over the bust, or under? Is there an official “fashionable” answer.
I don’t normally wear fixed wrap tops, but this is so lovely, I might have to reconsider.
It’s intended/designed to go under, but you can also wear it over, if you prefer! (If you search the hashtag on Instagram you’ll see Carmen (@carmencitab) wears hers over.
I figured the answer was under, but with the wrinkling under the bust I wasn’t quite certain.
That looks great on you and I love the fabric you chose. I have similar problems with ready to wear tops as to my daughters so thanks for the review, I will add this to my “want” list!!!
That’s great! I hope it works as well for you!
Lovely top and suits you perfectly! I have the Dartmouth on my cutting table and certainly plan to get to it in the next couple of weeks. I was unsure about a wrap top on me to be honest but your measurements are close to mine and it looks so wonderful on you I’m encouraged 🙂
Yay! How did yours turn out?
Lovely pattern and gorgeous fit! By any chance, do you recall where you purchased the fabric from?
I was wondering about the fabric too!
I just replied to Maricel too. Sahara Fabrics! Mostly kid prints , but some fun things for adults too.
Hi Maricel! I bought it from Sahara Fabrics. Sadly it looks like it isn’t available anymore, but they do have a destash group on Facebook.