These themed sewing challenges for the #CurvyYearofSewing are truly the motivation that I need to add some missing pieces to my wardrobe. I couldn’t get it together to whip up some pants/jeans last month, and I didn’t want to miss out on all the fun again.
I was knee-deep in my extensive pattern stash (curse those blessed pattern sales I can’t seem to resist) and had already picked out a jacket pattern when Schnittchen released the Amy Parka in their extended sizes.
Wooooooooohoooooooooo!!!
The Amy Parka is a lined oversized coat with wide-cut shoulders, hood and large pleated pockets. I have been in love with this pattern since I got hip to this designer when I did a review of the Betty Top last winter but it was only available in the section where my glory does not reside and thoughts of attempting to grade the pattern gave me heart palpitations.
Let’s talk about the company. Schnittchen is a German company that has a variety of patterns designed for women ranging from European sizes 34 – 46 (82cm-106cm /32″-42″ bust and 91cm-114.5cm/36″-45″hip) with an expanding Extended Plus Size range of European sizes 46-56 (106-136cm/ 42″-53.5″bust and 114.5-142cm/ 45″-56″hip). Their patterns are available as a paper pattern or as a downloadable file in German and English.
Disclaimer: I received this pattern for free, but all my opinions are my own.
Getting started: Based on the pattern’s size chart, my bust measured into size 54, and the hips would need to be graded above their top size 56. Falling into different sizes forced me to be thoughtful of what size to pick because of some of the design features that can be lost in translation when grading, like the pleated pockets. Just to get my mind right, I decided to do a quick tissue fit of the pattern in their biggest size to see what we were working with. The internet is chockfull of information about how to tissue fit, so I won’t go in depth about the method, but I love doing this first whenever I tackle a new pattern. Not only does it help identify fit issues but it allows me to go through the construction steps of the “garment”. Pinning together my garment at the sew lines clears up any confusion I may have when reading the instructions. The pattern comes with sewing instructions in both German and English and sketches that refer to some of the written instructions. Some parts are easy to follow and some parts require you to step back and think about the end goal. The instructions are not skimpy but they definitely do not hold your hand through the process. This is where tissue fitting can be so helpful even before you sew your muslin.
Changes I made: Tissue fit confirmed that I would need those extra inches in the hip area, concentrated more in the back. A full butt adjustment is typically something I always have to do whenever I make something that involves anything from the waist down.
Grading between sizes for the bust area posed a problem because of the unique pattern piece for the front panel but I was able to get the fit I wanted around my bust and shoulder by doing a narrow chest adjustment.
Even though the parka is oversized, those sleeves were no match for my beefy arms. A full bicep 
adjustment on these sleeves was necessary, which I usually try to avoid because sleeves scare me. I am a card carrying member of #teamnosleeves #teamsleeveless #teamcapsleeves #teamknitsleevesareyourfriend
So of course I scoured the internet and decided upon the method explained wonderfully by Pattern Emporium linked here –> Sleeve Bicep Adjustment There are many techniques that one can use, but this is one that I was not familiar with. It worked out great for me, and I will be using it again.
I added an inside pocket and coat loop which was inspired by @lejditea version of the Amy parka that is just gorgeoussssss in this raindrop fabric! Sometimes we forget those little details that make our garments more functional…Extra Pockets!!!
Fabric: Recommended fabric for the Amy Parka was canvas, waxed fabrics or thicker woolen fabrics for the outer shell and typical lining fabric. I chose to use this beautiful fabric that has a 4-way stretch water repellent nylon shell bonded to a washable merino wool on the inside for the outer shell and a floral crepe de chine for the lining, both from FabricMart. Its definitely a lot lighter in weight than what’s recommended but I wanted something I can throw in a suitcase on my travels. Not only does it look amazing, but it feels luxurious!!
How did you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think that the design works well for your body shape?
It’s an oversized parka, and the fabric I chose is lightweight, so this piece lends itself to be layered, which is what I wanted. Definitely enough room to throw over a thick sweater if needed. The one thing I wish the pattern provided was a Finished Measurement Chart so that I could determine and adjust for how oversized I want the garment to fit on my body.
Will you make this pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
Pattern is pretty unique so multiple versions of the same coat is not needed in my wardrobe but I can see myself sewing up a version with a heavier fabric weight.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
Size range: 5
Instructions: 3
Construction process: 4
Final fit: 4
Overall rating: 4 It is hard to find sewing patterns that offer something different to the eye and those oversized pockets are giving me life. I know that some in my size spectrum tend to avoid the “oversized” look but I absolutely love the style and appreciate that it is available for me to sew in “my size”. However the disadvantage of great style lines is that it can be a bit difficult to grade between sizes when you have unique pattern pieces that you have to navigate. I listed above some of the techniques I had to use to fit this garment for my curvy body.
When I was studying the instructions to make the parka, I could 
not wrap my head on some of the steps like how to sew up the pockets and almost put the project down. I’m not sure if it’s because the instructions gets lost in the English translation or if it’s just not clearly written, but I’m so glad I took the time to go through the process of doing a tissue fit and a muslin because it truly made more sense the more I did the steps and made it easier to follow when I made the final garment.
Overall, I am happy to add this to my wardrobe and look forward to checking out the next garment that Schnittchen adds to their extended sizes. Every garment teaches me valuable lessons and techniques to make the next garment even better in my sewing journey.
Until Next time, GariChild
Beautiful. Both you and the parka! You did a wonderful job and it looks great on you! I love the lining AND the orange shell.
Oh wow, that looks fantastic on you! Such a gorgeous coat, and your fabric choices are fabulous (especially that lining with that orange.) Thanks for such a detailed review! You make we want to go try this.
I love everything about your coat. You did a great job.
That was one of the best reviews I’ve ever read! You explained your process and the pattern so well, I may have to try this soon! Thank you!
Thank you karen!
That is just beautiful.
Thank you Deb!
You look very pretty in you new parka. Love the lining too! Kinda like a secret just for you. I also have really beefy upper arms and altering sleeves has been too scary for me to attempt, but I will give it a go. Right now I am attempting to copy a parka but I am too scared to finish it. It has been cut out but not only the pockets attatched so far. I will need it soon though, but this option seems easier.
The insides make me happy! And girlllll finish that parka!!! Comes out good, you have a parka to wear for the season, comes out bad you find the lessons in your mistakes and keep it moving to the next sewing project. That’s the beauty of this sewing journey, you can only get better if you keep sewing
True, true! And great attitude! Actually started sewing it. Maybe I will post my first picture ever when I finish it. Thanks for the support!
What a great job. Love your fabric choices. It looks great on you too!
Thank you
I think this came out beautifully and I absolutely LOVE the lining fabric you chose! Great job!
Thank you
I looked at the website and their plus sized stuff looks great. How do you order this stuff in English? P.S. love your jacket, you did aces on it!
Thank you. The instructions come in both languages and my computer browser translates automatically and so I don’t have any problem ordering in English. Try Google chrome translate
Just a quick comment to say THANK YOU! for the link to the full butt adjustment directions. I have used this method with good results, but I didn’t bookmark it. I needed it recently (for the Cashmerette jeans) but I really, really didn’t want to Google full butt or big butt adjustment or the like, if you know what I mean. :-/ Now I don’t need to wade through the internet swamp to get great-fitting pants. \O/
OK, now I’ll go back and finish reading your review. I can already tell you did a great job on a cute the jacket though.
Your welcome!!!
YES!! I have been eyeing this pattern, but I wasn’t sure if the shape would suit my body. Our measurements seem to be quite similar, so now I feel a lot more confident in using this pattern. I’m loving mixing oversized box tees with skinny jeans and leggings (once I got over the fear of ‘oversized’) so I think this parka is right up my alley. Thank you!
That is soooooo my style!
This is just lovely, I am thinking I would need an FBA but based on the line drawing and the dart on your muslin I am wondering just how easy it would be, to perhaps I should say – would it be very tricky! Any thoughts?
This pattern definitely favors the well endowed so you may not even need an FBA. I had make adjustments to reduce in that area because my bust did not come up to par. I suggest to muslin or tissue fit the lining first and whatever adjustments you need to make can be translated to the outer shell. Don’t hesitate to hit me up if you get stuck
Thanks for that, I’m right at the top end of the sizing so I’ll need to check it out on a basic muslin first so may well be in touch!!
Love your coat and your review, Garichild! It’s on my wishlist!
Thank you
I love a bright jacket! It looks great!!
Thank you!
It turned out really nice! I love the length. I’m not daring enough to do any foreign language patterns yet! Translated or not translated! LOL! ;o)
In my Nike voice… just do it! Lol I understand. I have enough trouble figuring out Burda instructions and that’s in English
Thanks for sharing this review, I love your finished coat! I’ve been wanting to make an anorak style jacket but didn’t know of any patterns in my size, so this might just fit the bill. Going to check it out, though I’m a little worried about the instructions since I havent sewn a jacket before.
Definitely do a muslin first and go thru the motions. Instructions made much more sense when I was sewing and pinning.
Your coat looks great and your instructions on changes are plain. Thanks.
Love this, the colour is perfect and the lining lots of fun. I need a light weight coat for an upcoming trip, this maybe just the pattern for me to use.
The parka turned out awesome! I love your color choice and your writing style is fun to read. Thanks for taking the time to write up your experience.
Thank you!
Love your coat – the colour and the pockets are my absolute favourites and thank you for a lovely Monday morning giggle, “but it was only available in the section where my glory does not reside and thoughts of attempting to grade the pattern gave me heart palpitations.” An engaging and informative posting! I’ll copy out those instructions for a full bicep adjustment. I haven’t needed to do one of those yet but you never know when you might want to change the style lines on a pattern!
Thank you!
What a great parka! It looks great on you and I’m loving your color choices. I haven’t sewn in years but you inspire me to get my machine out and give it another go. I’ll be following you on IG.
Thank you and I definitely encourage you to dust off that machine. They say it’s like riding a bike.
Gorgeous work and wonderful fabric choices
Thank you!