When the Curvy Sewing Collective announced that February was going to be Pants Making Month, it was just the push I needed to pull out Burda 6678 from my pattern stash.
Doesn’t it look so easy? These casual pants have five pattern pieces, tapered legs, an elastic waist, and pockets. Who doesn’t love a quick-and-dirty sew, like this, especially pants? Yep…perfection!
Originally, I cut the pattern based on my hip measurements, then made a muslin of my quick-and-dirty lounge pants. At first go, I thought they were perfect straight from the package. Come on, how cute are these giraffe printed lounge pants? Even better, I finished them in two hours. The fit looked good, they weren’t too tight in the thighs, and that slight taper in the bottom was fabulous. Yep…again perfect!
Then, I sat down.
#gasp #exposed #nobueno
Definitely not a good look if I plan to throw these on at the next PTA meeting, so I got right to work on a Full Butt Adjustment. I also photographed this process through each step, so I could share a quick tutorial with you. If you find yourself in similar trouble with a pattern, this will sort it out!
Tutorial: Full Butt/Bootie/Tush Adjustment
There are many different resources available on how to make a Full Butt Adjustment but the slash and spread method utilized in Collette’s Clover Pants Sewalong (great resource for navigating other pants fitting issues and concerns) is my tried-and-true method.
- Identify how much more coverage you need. My glory needed about 1.5” to clear the horizon.
- Since the only fit issues I had were in the back, that’s the only pattern piece I will be modifying. I traced my back pattern piece and made sure to also include my seamlines, grainline and rise shorten/lengthen line.
- From the center back, draw and cut slash lines through to the seam allowance. To create a hinge point, snip into the seam allowance, making it easier to pivot and spread your pattern.
- Spread and cut along the center back rise to the amount you need for coverage. Due to the shape of my glory back there, I find it better to distribute the amount I need among the 2 cut points along my center back. It’s totally trial and error as to how you want to split the amount of spread. I used a 1/3, 2/3 split and it worked for me.
- Fill in the gaps with paper and tape in place. Smooth out any lines that need to be trued up and retrace the pattern piece, then you are good to go!
But did it work?
YES, it did!
Below are photos of my two muslins, before and after this adjustment. I tied an elastic band around my waist to show where I would prefer my pants to be so that we have no exposure. As you can see with Muslin #1, the back of my pants did not reach the elastic band at my waist, but Muslin #2 with the adjustments completely covers the elastic band and is giving me the coverage I need for all my glory. Yeahhhhh!
Muslin #2 with Full Butt Adjustment
I loved the new fit so much that I could not resist taking the pants with me on my trip to Cuba last month. I already have plans to add a couple more of these quick sew lounge pants in my wardrobe. I definitely recommend Burda 6678 for an easy pair of elastic waist lounge pant, if you’re interested, and hope that the Full Butt Adjustment tutorial was helpful for this and other patterns.
Until next time,