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Pattern Review: Cashmerette Patterns Appleton Dress

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Hello ladies of CSC! I’m Meg, a long time CSC follower, but a first time contributor! I blog over at Cookin’ and Craftin’.

I’m here today with a pattern review of the brand new Appleton dress pattern from Cashmerette Patterns, a new venture from CSC founder Jenny. This classic knit wrap dress is specifically designed with for women with curves (!!), with pattern sizing ranging from 12 – 28, with cup sizes ranging from C – H. The Appleton has “an innovative neckband which hugs the body for zero gaping, a built-in waist tie, a longer under-layer for less flashing potential, and three sleeve lengths.”

Cashmerette Patterns Appleton Dress

Note: I was a pattern tester for the Appleton dress, but my opinions about the pattern are my own. I am reviewing the tester version of the dress, but only very minor changes were made to the pattern as a result of testing, namely straightening out the high hip curve slightly and making a change to allow the wrap part of the skirt to hang vertically.

Cashmerette Patterns Appleton Dress

 

  • Pattern name:

Cashmerette Patterns Appleton Dress

  • Pattern description:

The Appleton is a classic knit wrap dress, with three different sleeve lengths.

  • Size range (with measurements):

12 – 28, cup sizes C – H, check out the Cashmerette size chart here and read more about the sizing here.

  • What size did you make?

14 C/D bodice graded to 16 at the hips, with ¾ length sleeves

  • What fabric did you use?

I used a medium-weight jersey with spandex… it has excellent recovery, which I think is key for a wrap dress.

  • What are your measurements, height, and body type?

Bust: 41-42” Waist: 34” Hip: 46” Height: 5’7.5” Body Type: Pear

  • What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?

No adjustments, this is the (tester version) of the pattern, as-is.

  • What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?

I think the construction was quite straight forward. I found the instructions to be thorough without being annoyingly hand-holdy. I had some headscratching over the instructions for attaching the waist ties to the neckband, but ultimately had an “ah ha!” moment and it worked out fine.

I did wonder if there was a cleaner way to finish the hole in the side of the bodice through which the waist tie is threaded. I used my serger to sew the major seams and I found it difficult to start/stop serging around the hole in order to have the seam allowances loose there to press them open. I’ve seen lined/clean finish holes on RTW wrap dresses, but all of those have separate, lined waistbands, so it’s a totally different construction technique. Jenny tells me that she inspected several designer wrap dresses to analyze their construction details and this is how their waist tie holes are finished, so maybe it’s just a question of improving my technique to get a cleaner finish!


 Cashmerette Patterns Appleton Dress

  • How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?

I am really happy with the fit! I was worried that the dress might not work for me since my curviness falls more on my lower half than my upper half; I’m more pear-shaped/bottom heavy than busty. I thought that perhaps the straighter skirt style might not work for my wide hips, but it worked out fine! It’s fitted without being too tight or clingy, and the amount of over-wrap on the skirt makes it so that it doesn’t easily pull apart, even when sitting. There was a bit of extra fabric in the hip area (like wee little saddle-bags), but Jenny has fixed this for the final pattern, as I described above.

I like how the bodice looks, too. The wide neckband that is stretched to fit the bodice keeps everything nice and snug, as advertised. No gaping for me! I think because I am more of a C cup than a D cup and the bodice is a combined C/D, the wrap comes up a bit higher on me and is pretty cleavage-free. Jenny instructs that you should go up a cup size if you want more coverage.

Finally, I am pleasantly with the Appleton pattern’s built-in sway-back solution. I didn’t end up with any bunching or pooling in the lower back, which is fairly a-typical for me.

  • Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?

Yes! I definitely plan to make the Appleton again. I’ve worn this version several times since making it, including to the office and to an important business meeting, and I felt great in it! I’m so pumped about it, so I’ll probably just make the same version, with no changes. I am a bit curious, though, about how this pattern might work with a more flared or A-line skirt.

  • Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?

I exclusively used the pattern instructions to sew this dress since I was testing, but I know that Jenny of Cashmerette has a whole series of wrap dress construction tips here at Wrap Dress Central that might be helpful!

 

Cashmerette Patterns Appleton Dress

Pattern Rating (1-5, 1 is the lowest, 5 is the highest)

Size Range: 5 – designed specifically for the curvy ladies!
Instructions: 5 – very straightforward and clear
Construction Process: 4- I wish there was a cleaner way to finish the waist-tie hole, but otherwise A+
Final Fit: 5 – so happy with this non-gaping neckline and flash-free skirt!
Overall Rating: 5 – I love the final result and can’t wait to make more!

Disclosure: As Meg mentioned, Cashmerette Patterns is the new pattern line of CSC editor Jenny Rushmore. 

Comments

  1. Maybe rhis is a silly question, but can it be tied so that the ties don’t go around the waist first? Just tied in a bow at the side opening so that it doesnt look like a belt?

  2. Meg, this is really nice. Your description helps as I am also a C cup, but don’t usually wear wrap dressed because I fear the flashing. Nice to have a comfy dress that is professional.

  3. Wow, that is a pretty dress! I am interested to see this review, since I’m pear shaped as well, and wondered if the pattern would work for me. I had assumed it was more for those with larger top halves than bottom halves, but it looks great on you. Thanks for the review.

  5. This is awesome. I put together another wrap dress pattern for my sewing group’s sew along, and was getting ready to figure out the bust adjustment for a wrap dress. I’ll buy this pattern instead!

  6. Morning Meg, I am loving all of the versions of this dress that I can find. I should have mine ready for Tyron today, fingers crossed. I chose to add some length to mine at the waist. I hope I don’t regret that. Just curious, do you find the arms a bit snug? I love negative ease most of the time, but not in the sleeves.

    You look stunning in this dress!

    • Thanks, Elaine! I hope your Appleton is a success! Hmm- I don’t think the sleeves are too snug- definitely not loose, but I don’t think that they’re supposed to be. For me they’re comfortable. Typically, for me, I find that sleeves can go either way- sometimes I need to do full arm adjustment, sometimes not…

  7. Wow, that’s really nice, and it looks good on you. I can’t wear straight dresses or longish straight tunics because of my “square” hips. Anyone else with this problem?

  8. Your dress is beautiful. I have not made this particular pattern, but in a different knit wrap dress I made a bound buttonhole for the area to thread the tie through. I sewed 2 inches on each side of the opening, with a very skinny zigzag. I then made a bound buttonhole the width of the tie, using a knit tricot fusible interfacing on the material used to bound the buttonhole. After the button hole was complete, I snipped into the seam allowance to allow room for my serger and then finished the seams with my serger. It turned out pretty good, but I wished I had practiced it a few times to perfect it before doing. I prefer making bound buttonholes in all of my clothes, and as long as I use a good knit interfacing, I haven’t had problems with knits. I call them bound buttonholes, but growing up I was taught to call them welted buttonholes. I do have a nifty little gadget that helps me with the cutting, folding, etc. But it was my Grandmothers, then my mom’s, and now mine. I have not seen anything like it, except for pockets. I hope my description is clear. Every time I try to explain something, my admiration for bloggers such as Meg goes up a thousand fold. Thank you Meg for this description, I have placed this style on my wish list for new patterns.

      • I grew up in 4H, and in 4H sewing, the inside of the garment had to be as neat as the inside. In the days before servers, we either use tricot seam binding to finish the seams, or sewed with French seams alot. When I was 11, I entered a Lad and Laddies Wool contest. That is where you make a wool outfit, along with a blanket for your lamb, and then model your outfit while showing your lamb. I made a jacket, vest, and skirt. Bound buttonholes, finished seams, and everything lined. I was 11! But now, I am grateful, because now it is second nature. It was and is fun when someone thinks your dress is confidential because of the little things.

  10. Meg — your dress is amazing as always. (Were these photos taken before your new haircut? It’s freaky that I “know” you well enough to track your hair styles…)

    I’m curious about what you’re wearing underneath — shapewear, a slip, commando? I’m a bit terrified of super drape-y and clingy spandex, even though it’s the obvious choice for this wrap dress. In looking at the other reviews, it seems that most people are pairing this wrap dress with some foundation garments (even if it’s just a camisole to deal with cleavage). What is your approach to wearing this dress in “real life”?

    • For what it’s worth, I wore mine with a full knit slip, which I wear under all my dresses… no shapewear. That stuff takes all the fun out of looking pretty! 😉

    • Hey Jennifer! Yep, these photos are from earlier in the summer, pre-haircut!

      I am not wearing anything special underneath… just undies and a bra. As you probably experienced when you were here, it’s too damn hot in Bangkok for that! I might consider wearing some high-waisted bike-short style shorts to smooth things out if it were cooler, but honestly, a busy print goes a long way, methinks!

      • That is nice to know for those of us who are actually long-waisted and need the ties and opening at the natural level.

    • After reading your comment, and the one below, I tried the dress on again. The hole for the waist tie is a bit lower than it appears in this photo, but I think wrapping it closer to empire is my personal preference. If I put the wrap lower, on the waist and below, rather than across, my bust, it works equally well.

  15. Lovely fabric and construction but I am wondering why in your photo your hand is on your waist but the tie belt is right up under your bust empire-style. It might be more comfortable, especially for sitting, a bit lower on your natural waist?

    • After reading your comment, I tried the dress on again. The hole for the waist tie is a bit lower than it appears in this photo, but I think wrapping it closer to empire is my personal preference. If I put the wrap lower, on the waist and below, rather than across, my bust, it works equally well.

  16. This looks great on you, I am only 5’2″ tall and I wonder how it works for a shorter person.

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