Curvy Sewing Collective

A Plus Size Sewing Community

  • Articles
    • Pattern Reviews
    • Curvy Tutorials
    • Curvy Fitting
    • Curvy Confidence
      • Body Positivity
    • Community Discussion
    • Class reviews
      • Craftsy
    • Curvy Opinion
    • Sewing for My Curves
  • Curvy Patterns
    • Plus Size Pattern Companies
    • Pattern Review Directory
      • Pattern Reviews — by garment type
      • Big 4 Pattern Reviews
      • Indie Pattern Reviews
    • Same Pattern Different Bodies
    • Pattern Throwdowns
  • Resources
    • CSC Beginner’s Guides
    • Plus Size Patterns
    • Cup Size Reference
    • Our Favorite Sewing Books
    • Where to Buy Fashion Fabrics
      • Fabric Stores – by Country/State
      • Fabric Stores – Online
    • Curvy Blogroll
    • Curvy Fashion Bloggers
  • Community
    • CSC Facebook Group
    • Curvy Blogroll
    • Theme Months and Challenges
      • Lingerie Month
      • Swimwear Month
      • Shirtmaking Month
      • Curvy Pants Month
      • Mini Capsule Wardrobe Month
      • Pattern Hacking Month
      • Curvy Year of Sewing
      • Sew Brave
    • Sewalongs
    • CSC Sewing Spaces
    • Instagram/Flickr Roundup
    • Polls
    • Grab a Button
  • About Us
    • Editors
      • Meet the People Behind the Curvy Sewing Collective
    • Contributors
      • Meet our Contributors!
      • Contributor Guidelines
      • Contributor Submission Form
      • Pattern Review template
      • Tutorial Template
    • Newsletter
    • How We Talk About Size
    • Inclusive Sizing, Independent Patterns, and the Curvy Sewing Collective
    • FAQs
    • Press
    • Contact Us
You are here: Home / Community Discussion / Behind the Scenes: How I developed Cashmerette Patterns

Behind the Scenes: How I developed Cashmerette Patterns

October 12, 2015 by Jenny

Hello lovely CSCers!

As you all know, I’m totally passionate about the amazing power of sewing your own clothes when you’re blessed with a curvy figure – that’s why Mary and I first set up the Curvy Sewing Collective. But, just like many of you, I was still frustrated by the lack of patterns that were available in my size, or anywhere *close* to my bust size. So, I decided to try to do something about it, and last week,  Cashmerette Patterns was born.  It’s the first pattern line designed specifically for curves, in sizes 12 – 28 and cup sizes C – H. You can read all about it at my blog, but I wanted to give you the “behind the scenes” story here today, because I’m always intrigued to hear those from other companies!

1201coverforstore

I’ve known for a long time that conventional sewing patterns don’t fit me well, whether that’s Big 4 or indie patterns. My specific bugbears were:

  • Pattern companies that stop at an 18, or have weird variation, where some patterns go to a 20 and some mysteriously go up to a 24 (you know who I’m talking about!) or into “W” sizes.
  • Having to do an Full Bust Adjustment on everything. EVERYTHING! Did you know that the average US woman has a DD chest? And that companies keep on drafting for a B/C, or if you’re *really* lucky, a D? My HH bust laughs at that.
  • The consequences of the FBA: trying to tame the Big Honking Dart, deal with bizarro armscye issues, having to grade back into my waist size.
  • Not having thoughtful grading on bigger sizes: why do you assume my shoulders get wider as I put on weight?! Or that my arms get longer? Or even my head gets bigger? (yes, that’s actually happened in a garment I made with a hood). Why is there no more vertical length to allow for the bust getting bigger? It seems to betray a basic lack of understanding of plus size bodies.
  • An absence of thoughtful pattern design – no, a dart shouldn’t end 1 inch from the apex of a HH. Nor do I want to make a huge dart and cut it out afterwards. I also want designs that are proportionate on my body type.

The first thought of specific pattern line drafted for curvy bodies occurred to me several years ago – but I dismissed it, because I have never drafted before, and I knew that just taking a class or two wouldn’t give me expertise. But almost precisely a year ago (October 2014!) I was brushing my teeth and it suddenly hit me: I don’t need to know how to draft patterns – I just need to know someone who does. And if we use an appropriate curvy block, and include the features I’ve been looking for, we could be on to something!

Once I’d found my awesome pattern drafter (who does both home sewing and industry sewing patterns), we set out to create the blocks. These are like tight dresses which you finesse until they fit perfectly, which you then use as the basis for all other patterns, adding in ease as needed. You have to create two: one for knits, and one for wovens, because they behave so differently. This was a tremendous challenge! It took us nearly 6 months to perfect. I didn’t want to use myself as a fit model because I’m more busty and less hippy than average, so instead we used a combination of a specially designed plus size form, which is based on actual women’s measurements, rather than a “scaled up” size 8, so it has things like a squishy tummy and a swayback, and we also tested on a variety of real women.

The block in progress! (not finished yet) – excuse my very messy cupboard!!

The main challenge, as you can imagine, was getting the perfect fit through the bust. If you have a large chest, there’s a lot of angles going on there. Eventually, we found a block which led to a perfectly smooth armscye, and no bunching at all at the bust or armpit – I literally screamed for joy when I made the sample! Then, we made another two blocks, so that we had three in the end: for C/D, E/F and G/H cups.  Our block ended up looking quite strange compared to what you’re used to – way more curved down the side, and with a significant dip in the front, which allows for the additional vertical length you need with a bigger bust. Plus, we drafted in a swayback, because nearly every curvy woman I know has one of those!

Once we had the blocks done, it was on to designing our patterns. For the first one I decided to go with was a classic wrap dress, as I’m their #1 fan – they do such awesome things for curves. That said, I’ve always had problems though with not having enough coverage, and with gaping necklines, so those were our focus areas. Through a combination of lots of tweaking and testing we were able to achieve a truly no-gape neckband in the end, which I’m really proud of! Again, the pattern pieces look quite different to what we’re used to – but that just goes to show how far off “regular” patterns are from fitting curvy figures.

After testing, it was then a matter of putting things into production. I wanted to do paper patterns as well as PDFs, because there are very strong camps who prefer each one, so finding out how to do that was an adventure in itself. In the end, I had to find three different printers for the paper patterns – for the envelope, pattern, and booklet.

IMG_4152

My patterns arriving! So exciting.

And then, I had a party to assemble them! I’m super lucky to have a great group of sewing friends in Boston, the Crafty Foxes who meet at Grey’s Fabrics every week, and we made a mighty assembly line.

IMG_4157

For the photoshoot, I knew that I absolutely needed women with the curvy figure the patterns are designed for – but I found out quickly that there’s no plus size/curvy modeling agency in Boston. So instead, I drafted in my friends! All three of us were photographed, and we span size 16 to 24. In the future, I’d love to have all sizes in the range covered. Here’s an out-take from our shoot (at Grey’s Fabrics):

Melissa, me, and Andrea.

So exactly a year later, here we are, with the launch of my first dress, the Appleton Dress!

Final_Jenny_Navy_Blank

I have a series of other patterns in the works, which will be coming out in the next few months, and each time I’m tackling common problems curvy women have with patterns. I want to come out with styles which are wearable, comfortable and stylish, without sewers having to spend hours altering the pattern.

I’ll be doing calls for pattern testers in the future – if you’d like to be considered, sign up for my newsletter (you can find the sign up sheet on my blog, on the right hand column). I would also LOVE to hear what kind of patterns you’d like to see in the future, and what *your* personal bugbears are with patterns today – let me know below!

Share this:

  • Email a link to a friend (Opens in new window) Email
  • Share on Facebook (Opens in new window) Facebook
  • Share on Pinterest (Opens in new window) Pinterest
  • Share on X (Opens in new window) X
  • Share on Tumblr (Opens in new window) Tumblr

Like this:

Like Loading…

Filed Under: Community Discussion, Curvy Opinion, Curvy Patterns Tagged With: Appleton Dress, behind the scenes, Cashmerette Patterns

About Jenny

Jenny runs Cashmerette, which empowers sewists with big boobs to sew their own wardrobe that makes them feel fabulous. Cashmerette comes in cup sizes C - H and sizes 0 - 32. Cashmerette

« Curvy Upcycling: Thrifting and Repurposing Tips for Plus Sizes
Pattern Review: Cashmerette Patterns Appleton Dress »

Comments

  1. Julie says

    October 15, 2015 at 10:00 am

    I’m also very excited about your patterns! I’m the one who doesn’t wear dresses (http://wp1094.hostgator.com/~waezmq0ac6rs/curvy-opinion-sewing-dreams-and-a-myrtle-giveaway/) but the second I got the email announcement, I ordered this! I will give it a try, even if I just decide to wear it around the house. Maybe I’ll be brave and wear it to work. I’m an ‘exaggerated pear’, so I’d be happy to see and test any styles that are pear-friendly. I am very much interested in separates, and in anything that has a classic style that I can modify as I’d like. Suggestions for modifications are always welcome, like doing a maxi-length wrap dress, etc.

  2. Abbey Dabbles says

    October 14, 2015 at 10:06 am

    Jenny, this is a fabulous idea that I am glad you were able to bring to fruition! Can’t wait to see what else you have in store for us curvy ladies who are tired of all the adjustments needed to fit into the stuff we like to see.

  3. entish says

    October 13, 2015 at 11:09 pm

    I would love to see a well drafted button up shirt/blouse, likely with front and back princess seams. Most of the patterns I’ve seen look like they’ll need a lot of alterations and large bust darts.

  4. Nise says

    October 13, 2015 at 9:56 pm

    Oh my, the Appleton looks great! I would love to see a button down blouse that didn’t need a ridiculous amount of adjustments to make it fit me. I love the shaping on the Granville blouse, but I’m on my fifth muslin. And most of it is related to the FBA and BHD, and a serious sway back adjustment. And then the crazy armscyes that need to be fixed after the FBA. My measurements are 45-35-49, UK 34H. Most of the 44 inch full bust is in the front – my back and shoulders are small. I’m so tired of bust and hips that are too small with giant shoulders and enough extra material at the back waist to hide a small child – all in the same garment.
    I can’t wait to see what you release next!

  5. Staci Flowers Carpenter says

    October 13, 2015 at 7:00 pm

    First of all, THANK YOU SO MUCH! For creating patterns for curvy women. I am so excited to make up the Appleton Dress. I have my pattern assembled and cut and material ready to go. Secondly, as far as suggestions, I would love to see a pattern for a classic button down shirt, with princess seams and/or dart shaping that actually closes over my GG chest and actually fits me in the shoulders, waist and hips. I just recently spent the better part of two weeks and three muslins ‘tweaking’ the Sewaholic Granville pattern to fit my 46-36-46 swayback figure and it’s still not perfect. Would be awesome to actually find a pattern that incorporates all the design elements I love in a button down 🙂

  6. Hedda says

    October 13, 2015 at 12:12 pm

    Ooo, super excited about the built-in swayback adjustment, I hadn’t caught that before. As for what I really miss in patterns: Some kind of indication on vertical length measurements beyond just “finished length”. I almost always need to adjust for a high waist/short back, and it would have been SO much easier if I knew the waist height or at least had a waistline marked on the pattern. So many patterns just add a lengthen/shorten here-marking below the waist and that’s it.

  7. Chris Griffin says

    October 13, 2015 at 12:04 pm

    Definitely lots of lengthen/shorten lines. I have a VERY short distance between my waist and bust apex compared to most patterns! 🙂

  8. Barbara Covey says

    October 13, 2015 at 11:57 am

    I would love a basic shirt pattern. I can’t buy one and am not satisfied with my attempts at altering available patterns. A pattern with divided bust darts to eliminate BHD would be great. Good luck

  9. Natalie Kimble says

    October 13, 2015 at 7:37 am

    This story excites me to no end. I am SO excited to have you on the pattern-making initiative with all of your attention to detail, and knowing what we plus sizers really need!!! I can’t wait to see all of your patterns as they come out. The thing I want most of all, which may seem too basic but we all need basics, (right??) is a well-fitting v-neck t-shirt for large busted women. Options like a gathered v-neck would be fun too (a gathered v-neck seems to minimize my bustline), but just the basic pattern would be the bomb. I am shaped a lot like you with a large bust and smaller hips and legs, but I have larger arms.
    You go girl!! P.s. -I also LOVE that you have your friends model!! I want to see regular women model things! Plus, you all are gorgeous.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:58 am

      Thanks for your comment, Natalie! I hear you on basics, that’s something I really want too.

  10. Anne McClure says

    October 13, 2015 at 3:58 am

    I’m so pleased you got a professional pattern cutter involved – one of my bugbears with some indy patterns is that they’re so badly drafted. I’ve had to alter my patterns, with varying degrees of success and attend classes, think I’m getting there but then realise I’m not! I’m tall so position of bust, waist are always issues; length of sleeve and skirt are easier to adjust. That said, as a mature person, many of the styles are just wrong for me. I bought the sketchbook but the shape isn’t right for me as I’m a peanut-pear. 5’11”, UK 38DD. 42/34/37 UK RTW size around 18. Trousers are my biggest headache as crotch length is always too short and I have a lot more at the back then front. . I’d like to see a pattern for a well fitting semi-formal semi-structured jacket. I’d love to pattern test! By biggest bugbear in patterns is where they say ‘no provision made for above waist adjustment’

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:00 am

      Hi Anne – ah yes, I realised pretty quickly I’d need to work with a professional! Not only do you get great drafting, but it’s an awful lot quicker 🙂 Thanks for your feedback. If you’d like to test, sign up for my mailing list (here: http://bit.ly/CashmeretteMailingList ) and I’ll announce a call for testers!

  11. Grace says

    October 13, 2015 at 2:40 am

    HI, I’m so so glad you shared your process for developing the patterns!!! its very interesting to me. I lost my sewing mojo after finding I had an illness and putting on weight. Another side effect of my illness is getting confused and forgetting things so I feel like I’ve lost all my sewing skills. I’m so so excited that I can just buy one of your patterns and have it fit, I’ll get my sewing mojo back!!! I’m super excited to see a fitted button up blouse, I’m an Aussie 16H a button up blouse/work shirt is impossible to find without my breasts trying to escape the shirt!! so excited for the future!

  12. tanyamaile says

    October 13, 2015 at 12:15 am

    It’s super exciting to think about your first pattern and all that are yet to come! I couldn’t be more enthusiastic! As I think about sewing for fall/winter and the patterns I don’t have, but would fill out my wardrobe– woven blouses (that could be tucked in or worn out), and wrap skirts (woven). Blazers and jackets, jeans and trousers — all are pretty lacking in curvy patterns and are mainstays in many of our wardrobes.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:01 am

      Yay, thanks for all your support and help Tanya! And requests, noted 🙂

  13. Brenda Marks says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:07 pm

    And the revolution has begun! Thank you!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:01 am

      Thanks!

  14. JenHolly says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:04 pm

    I was so excited by this post I registered on the site to comment. Your sizing guide actually matches my measurements! That has never happened to me before. Thank you. A simple woven top would be an amazing stash buster. I only have basic clothing sewing skills, but an obsession with buying delicate cotton fabrics (I’ve run out of ways to use them around the house). This beautiful dress is a bit advanced for me at the moment … one day.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:02 am

      So glad to hear that! I’ve had lots of people say “oh! I finally fit in a single size!” which I think just goes to show that this is long overdue 🙂

  15. Angela Tompkins Magney says

    October 12, 2015 at 9:08 pm

    So where I have been struggling in all patterns is my waist and my bust are the same size. I have a bit of a tummy that just won’t go away. How do I go about sizing this issue and will the Appleton look OK on someone without a waist?

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:56 am

      Hi Angela – so, Cashmerette Patterns are designed on a busty block, so not so much for your body type. You could try altering the pattern by grading between sizes: you don’t give your measurements, but let’s say your bust and waist were 42″, you could start with the 14 C/D bodice and draw a straight line down to connect to the size 22 at the waist. When doing alterations like that, I’d definitely recommend making a test version from a cheap fabric first. That said, wrap dresses are often quite forgiving, because they wrap around you until they fit!

  16. Amanda Andrews says

    October 12, 2015 at 7:13 pm

    Jenny this is amazing! I can’t wait to sew this up! I’m an E cup and anywhere between an Aussie size 14 to 18 and really hate seeing all the lovely patterns but not being able to sew them because I’m too new to know how to do an FBA and way off being experienced enough to grade up! I’d love to see some tops, maybe some sort of woven top that could be dressed up for work? Thanks and again you’re totally awesome!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:02 am

      Thanks for the feedback, Amanda, I’ve added it to my list !

  17. Sharon Farry says

    October 12, 2015 at 6:16 pm

    I am so excited about your new pattern line! I hate trying to make regular sized or poorly drafted plus sized patterns work for me. Sewing is an expensive hobby ( Australia) and it is very disappointing to invest time and soooo much money in dresses that are unwearable. I applaud your decision to cater for this so called “niche” market (I believe that there are a lot more of us than the big four would have us believe) and I can’t wait to try the Appleton dress!!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:02 am

      Hi Sharon – I think many of us share your frustration! I hope you love the dress.

  18. Val says

    October 12, 2015 at 5:46 pm

    Hi Jenny,
    The dress patterns sounds great! Your patterns will help some of my fitting problems because of the form you are using with the swayback and squishy stomach. I am so curious about your dress form, will you tell us where you got it, please?

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:03 am

      Hi Val – thanks! I’m using a professional Alvaform mannequin, which is intended for industry use (alas, it’s rather too expensive for most home sewists!). http://alvanon.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/AF-SPECS_ASD-GLOBAL-Plus_v4.0__06MAR2015.pdf

  19. Marianne K says

    October 12, 2015 at 5:00 pm

    This is such good news for curvy sewists! May those blocks form the start of a long line of patterns: shirts, cardigans, sweaters and hopefully some more advanced patterns for tailored jackets and coats too!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:56 am

      Thanks Marianne. Requests noted!

  20. ttimes33 says

    October 12, 2015 at 4:27 pm

    Would love to see addressed my personal fit issue — NO shoulders! Dunno, my arms seem to be attached at my neck, or close enough LOL — so one of my main adjustments is always for the narrow shoulders.. and.. narrower… but then — the DDD bust comes right under that…. nasty looking pattern pieces, I tell ya….And then the High Waist…. sooooo… the bust is *here* … and.. the waist is *here*… um… that’s the same spot, you say? Um… yeah… it is, isn’t it? Which is why, despite having sewn for over 40 years, I’ve basically given up sewing for myself — the 80’s were kind to me — huge shoulder pads, dropped shoulders, dropped waist styles, etc. — the current fitted look.. .not so much…. Somebody please bring back Princess Di????

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:04 am

      Sounds like you know your figure very well! Alterations can definitely be difficult, but hopefully these patterns get you closer to your ideal garments!

  21. Lusty says

    October 12, 2015 at 4:04 pm

    Thanks for this behind the scenes look! I went to Sandra Betzina’s Power Sewing retreat this year, where I spend my time doing muslins with fit alterations. I came back with several muslins ready to sew and (I thought) a newfound confidence in making alterations myself. However on my first “new” pattern I find myself feeling defeated already, that every single thing I want to sew requires new and interesting fit adjustments that are nearly impossible to do by myself. I got a Curvy Sketchbook so you’ve seen what I’m up against 😉

    I’m so looking forward to trying out your Appleton dress and can’t wait to see what you come out with next.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:04 am

      Ah yes, it can be so disheartening when you go through so many rounds trying to make something work – I empathise! I hope you love the dress 🙂

  22. allie J. says

    October 12, 2015 at 3:38 pm

    Thank you for sharing what went on behind the scenes! I’m not your target demographic as I don’t fit in your size range, but it’s nice to hear all the work (and trial and error!) that went into this pattern release.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:05 am

      Thanks for your comment, Allie!

  23. Jennifer W says

    October 12, 2015 at 12:50 pm

    Yay, Jenny — I am SO EXCITED about your patterns. First stop, wrap dress. Second stop, world domination!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:57 am

      He he he, thanks 🙂

  24. Kaoru Marie says

    October 12, 2015 at 12:04 pm

    Congrats, Jenny! While I’m not your target audience, my mom is (DD bust) and after hearing all my life how clothes never fit her right, I know your patterns are filling a big gap in the industry. My mom doesn’t typically wear dresses, but maybe I can convince her to let me sew her your wrap dress!

    Thanks for sharing this behind-the-scenes insight. It’s always cool to hear how people “did it”.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:05 am

      Making a dress for your Mum would be a lovely thing to do! And, thanks!

  25. Allyson Lyne says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:41 am

    Fantastic! I’ve ordered your pattern and have fabric sitting here that will look fabulous as an Appleton dress. I’ve made several wrap or surplice bodices last year, and each one shows the scars of the battle to make it work. I hope your pattern venture is a huge success!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:05 am

      I hope you like it Allyson!

  26. Mike Pace says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:33 am

    Please make us busty gals a dottie angel type pattern…..PLEASE !!!!!!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:05 am

      I admit I had to look up to see what that was – added to the list for consideration 🙂

  27. Jacquilynne says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:30 am

    I long for pants patterns that grade up the thighs more to go along with the stomach. Not all of us get fat in our mid-sections alone but most plus sized pants patterns are for women with legs that are slender relative to their stomachs.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:05 am

      Thanks for your feedback, Jacquilynne!

  28. Elaine says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:26 am

    Congratulations on this new venture. I admire people with drive and energy. This fills a niche market of women who are struggling to get it right and thinking that there is something wrong with how they are built, when the real question is why do the pattern companies keep getting it wrong. I am now retired and no longer have much need for dresses. That being said I am not dead and could still use a little wrap dress. Classic dresses never go out of style.

    My personal needs/wants in a plus sized pattern. A really well drafted shirt/ blouse. It could also be a shirt dress if so desired. Again classic, and never out of style.

    Once a person has these building blocks of well fitting patterns, your life becomes so easy as you can then build wardrobes that fit and alter for style only.

    My next want. A classic? Moto Jacket.

    I am ordering today. Jenny, I don’t blog so I write guest blogs on this forum. Once I have made the dress I would be glad to blog this for the ” mature” crowd who has been posting here.

    • Michelle Rose says

      October 12, 2015 at 1:25 pm

      Elaine, we’d love to see your take on this dress!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:56 am

      Thanks, Elaine! And of course we’d love to see what you make!

  29. Mary Humme says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:22 am

    I also would LOVE to see some more mature patterns – it is so disappointing that those of us who are past the age of 40 seem to be dumped into the ‘shapeless long dress’ or the ‘shapeless pant and long tunic’. We are still fashion conscious, want to look good, and don’t want to wear what an 18 year old wears! I have been starting to make my own patterns just for that reason!

    • Jenny Rushmore says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:53 am

      Hi Mary – noted! I’m hoping to come up with classic pieces which will look great on women of all ages. There’s definitely not going to be any shapeless garments!

      • Mary Humme says

        October 13, 2015 at 10:57 am

        Thanks! I look forward to seeing more! If you need test sewers, give me a shout!

        • Cashmerette says

          October 13, 2015 at 11:00 am

          I’ll be announcing calls for testers through my mailing list, so if you’d like to hear about it, you can sign up here! http://bit.ly/CashmeretteMailingList

  30. Annemarie Quevedo says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:17 am

    Jenny,

    I want to second what Lisa said. I so would like to see older women modeling your patterns. Congratulations on filling this void in the sewing world. Every issue you identified in your article spoke to me.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:57 am

      Noted! Working on it 🙂
      Thanks for your comment, Annemarie!

  31. Gillian says

    October 12, 2015 at 11:09 am

    Wheeee! Such an interesting post. My own personal bugbear with large sizes is that they all get taller – I don’t need a longer shirt just because I’m fatter!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:06 am

      SOOOO ANNOYING! I mean, I’m already 5’6″ so I’m not short, but I’m not sure why some pattern designers assume all bigger women are Amazonian.

    • leighann says

      October 21, 2015 at 10:41 pm

      Right! Or wider and wider shoulders and longer and longer sleeves. I’m 5’2″, I mean, c’mon. I might be fatter but I’m not BIGGER, if that makes any sense.

      Jenny, I’m another that would love a pattern for a woven fabric shirt that buttons down the front. I’m a DD bust so I need more room on top than the average pattern allows for, but I’m also short and short waisted, and I’m a pear not an apple. Any shirt that fits on top won’t button on the bottom. I’m not experienced enough at fitting to know how to cope with all these fit issues.

  32. Roslyn Francis says

    October 12, 2015 at 10:44 am

    Hi Jenny,
    I don’t know you, I just read the curvy collective blog. And given that I don’t know you, my happiness with this post is probably out of all proportion lol. I am so excited to try this pattern. My number one pet peeve with the sewing patterns which are available is this. That a pattern to fit my 42b-34ub-37w-48h pear shaped body needs so many alterations before I can use it. Those patterns were never drafted to fit my body type. It is so frustrating and so very demotivating. But I am going to try this pattern now. I work in a professional environment and I can see this wrap dress in a deep blue!

    Another bugbear for me is not having enough info on the face of the pattern to easily make alterations. Regardless of how well a pattern is drafted, there will probably still be one or two alterations which I might need to make. Reference lines on the face of the pattern as well as an indication of the ease built into the pattern eliminates a few steps during alteration. It could be that I need these things because I’m kind of a newbie, but to my mind a pattern should be helpful for all levels of sewing knowledge.

    You asked what kind of patterns I’d like to see in the future, a well fitting jeans pattern would be really nice.

    I wish you lots of success with this new venture.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:54 am

      Thank you for your comment, Roslyn! I definitely hear you about reference line – I included the waistline and a shorten/lengthen line on the pattern to help out with that. Are there any other types of markings you’d like to see on the pattern?

      • Roslyn Francis says

        October 28, 2015 at 10:54 pm

        Hi Kenny, bust point would be nice. I purchased the pattern and see the grey gridlines in the background of the pattern. That turned out to be helpful too.

    • Erin C says

      October 28, 2015 at 10:46 pm

      I feel like this is a very nosy question, so I apologize, but 42B with a 34″underbust? That seems like a really large band size for your ribcage.

  33. Tammy Tagesen says

    October 12, 2015 at 10:43 am

    Let us all eat cake!!! Now there are Cashmerette patterns that will fit us!!! I know what a big 4 pattern looks like when I’m done fitting it to me. I am so thankful you employed a professional pattern maker. It feels like the whole world is changing with your new pattern. Thank you.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:06 am

      Thanks, Tammy!

  34. Jessica says

    October 12, 2015 at 10:18 am

    Hi Jenny! First, thank you! Reading your blog always gives me enthusiasm and courage for feeling comfortable with myself, instead of how I’m not ____. It’s easy to lose one’s way with that sort of thing. Second, my personal fitting issues are always caused by the bust woes. My bottom half is RTW 8, but I have a G cup, so that generally translates to a 12 or 14 in sewing patterns, but with weird FBA/shoulder/armhole issues due to the huge disparity between full bust and under bust (and the fact that large bust does not equal massive shoulders!). I think the Appleton size 12 G/H would fit me perfectly! I can’t believe I could wear a wrap dress and go into it knowing it won’t be an alteration nightmare! Yay!! I can’t wait to see what else you come up with! Thank you!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:06 am

      So glad that you’ll be able to fit it straight out the pattern! Hope you love the dress.

  35. Lisa says

    October 12, 2015 at 9:18 am

    Hello Jenny – super excited that you are starting your own pattern line. Fingers crossed that you enjoy great success with it.

    It would be so nice to see older models wearing your patterns. The older woman has to deal with a little more weight around the middle and sadly the disappearing derriere. A fashion show that we recently attended was filled with tall, thin and young models. Each outfit was very well made; however, since all the models were so tall, thin and young, the consensus was that no one in the show looked like us and because of this, no one was going to attempt any of the garments.

    I realize that this may not be the direction you would like Cashmerette Patterns to take, but it certainly would be wonderful if you could include a few older models.

    Thank you again for filling the Curvey Women Sewing void. Can’t wait to see the shirts, blouses, tops, pants, skirts and jackets to come from your talented hand. Good Luck!!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 10:57 am

      Thanks, Lisa! I’d love to have older models too , and I’m working on it – the challenge is finding them in the Boston area who meet the figure requirements. But if anyone knows someone, feel free to email me at jenny@cashmerette.com !

      • Lisa says

        October 13, 2015 at 9:12 pm

        Jenny:

        That is awesome!! Thank you so much 🙂

  36. MarthaJ says

    October 12, 2015 at 9:18 am

    Congratulations! I may put a collar and long sleeves on my Appleton and FINALLY will get to wear the classic Diane Von Furstenberg wrap dress that has alluded me for years because of my curves! Your pattern is a timeless look with great potential for style and seasonal variations. Well done.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:07 am

      Ooh, I can’t wait to see your DVF interpretation! Thanks for sharing.

  37. Corinne says

    October 12, 2015 at 9:00 am

    Bravo for taking this on with such great success ! I would love to see tops- woven and knit ! Thank you

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:07 am

      Added to the list! Thanks Corinne.

  38. Kathy says

    October 12, 2015 at 8:52 am

    Jenny this is great! It’s like a dream come true. All the issues you mentioned are ones I’ve come across time and time again. The Big 4 grade on what Barbara Deckert describes as a Peanut figure in the plus sizes, but this doesn’t take into account women who are shorter, have a sway back, or those other things you mentioned. I have little to no waist definition and so I like patterns that do away with Omar the Tent Maker’s ideas of formless dresses that wear more like a poncho with no style lines, darts or anything. I have a new set of problems now; however, in that I have begun to lose weight. All I did to lose weight, besides being stressed out immensely lately due to some unfortunate circumstances, was to stop eating all sugar. The only sugar I’m getting now-a-days is in orange juice, potatoes, grapes and other foods – no more chocolate, soda and so on. I’m not preaching – it’s just how I lost weight for now. Consequently, my patterns no longer fit me. I still have the large arms at the biceps, the sway back and the tummy and hip bulges, but with a smaller bust, waist and hip size. It’s both good and bad. I have very narrow, sloping shoulders and invariably no patterns address that issue. Thank you so much for coming up with patterns that address these issues! Way to go! All the Best! Kathy G.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:07 am

      Hi Kathy – I agree, a lot of women don’t want to wear tents – and there are already plenty of tents for those who do! Thanks for your comment.

      • Kathy says

        October 13, 2015 at 11:15 am

        Jenny, Hi! Thank you for making this happen. I’ll look forward to some styles for the rectangle (no waist indentation) people like me. Thanks, Kathy

  39. Kristy Shaw says

    October 12, 2015 at 8:51 am

    I am a newbie sewer, I am a UK size 16 in RTW with a EE bust, I am also apple shaped so have a tummy on me. I would LOVE a woven top that didn’t go super boxy over my stomach as soon as do FBA! I have tried 3 patterns now and still not getting it right, I have issues with gaping armholes as soon as I do the FBA too. I would love to have different neckline options and sleeve lengths too…you can see my issues with Simplicity 8523 on my blog – and its 6 muslins! aaargh http://scientificsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/made-up-initiative-simplicity-8523-fail.html
    cannot wait to see the rest of your patterns!

    • Jo says

      October 12, 2015 at 2:19 pm

      I love boxy tops but I have had exactly these issues with almost every woven version I’ve ever tried – and it’s so frustrating! There are so many great woven tee patterns out there and I feel like I can’t wear any of them because they’re just going to balloon somewhere/everywhere around the shoulders/armholes/etc. So, request for boxy woven top patterns seconded!!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:08 am

      Thanks Kristy! I have exactly the same problem with boxiness, so that’s definitely something I’m working on.

  40. Liza Friesen says

    October 12, 2015 at 8:49 am

    I have only started sewing int he last few months and have somewhat the opposite “problem zones”! 6′ tall with a smaller D bust but a 55″ bust circumference and a very large drooping stomach. Needless to say what I have been able to make is fantastic but so many alterations to learn as a newbie is tough. Looking forward to trying out your patterns especially if it includes more dresses and skirts!!!!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:08 am

      Thanks, Liza! There will definitely be more dresses… and other types of garment!

  41. Joan Gong says

    October 12, 2015 at 8:42 am

    What I’d like to see…… Separates, casual wear (read – not sloppy), nice tops (woven), vests.

    Personal bugbear…… Getting a broad back adjustment just right.

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:08 am

      Thanks for sharing, Joan

  42. Christy Howard says

    October 12, 2015 at 8:16 am

    Brava! Jenny, you are amazing! I think anyone who sees a need and works diligently to fill that need deserves a pat on the back! Best success to you!

    • Cashmerette says

      October 13, 2015 at 11:08 am

      Thanks very much Christy! It was a lot of work, but I’m thrilled to see everyone’s reactions 🙂

      • Christy Howard says

        October 15, 2015 at 9:04 am

        I just realized I didn’t answer the question regarding what I would like to see in the future. I hope it isn’t too late to respond.

        I realize that sewing is changing a lot for younger women, and sadly, I do not fall under that category. While I am curvy, I am seeking clothing I can wear for work. I haven’t had a dress on at work since the dawn of time (although I’m thinking about it). I am a public educator who is sometimes required to be physical with students (breaking up fights, etc. Hard to believe a psychologist would be required to do so?)

        I am seeking classic pieces that will look good in a business casual sort of way. I am in the process of revamping my entire wardrobe. When I worked in Alaska, I was only required to be safe (weather appropriate). Jeans were my staple. But now in the lower 48, I have a dress code.

        Sewing provides me with relaxation, but I really need it to provide me with clothing that I can afford and will fit well and be work appropriate.

        It has been challenging for me to return to sewing since I gained so much weight. I quit sewing for a very long time after the death of my mother. It was something we shared, and sewing reminded me so much of her.

        But my daughters got me sewing again a couple of years ago, and I am seeking to find those things you talk about. Body positive, better fit and clothing that is a fashionable reflection of me while meeting standards at work.

        This feels so vague, but that is what I seek. I hope you find this helpful. I have enjoyed reading your blog, your posts in Seamwork as well as your contributions here.

Connect with us

  • email
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Subscribe to posts by email

Follow

Categories

Archives

#CSCMakes Instagram Roundup



Popular Posts

Sudoku vs. 4x4: choosing a capsule type
The Beginner's Guide: Full Bust Adjustment
Hoodie Hacks: Drafting a Hood from Scratch
How to Grade a Pattern Up:  The Easy Way

CSC Beginner’s Guides

Past Theme Months






Content Copyright 2014-2021. Curvy Sewing Collective. All rights reserved.

Please do not copy or reproduce any content from this site without approval and credit.
Contributor Login

Copyright © 2026 · Foodie Pro Theme by Shay Bocks · Built on the Genesis Framework · Powered by WordPress

Loading Comments...
%d