Knipmode is a monthly Dutch sewing pattern magazine, similar to BurdaStyle. Previously, Knipmode typically offered about 25 patterns for sizes 34-46 (including variations) and about 5 patterns for sizes 44-56 every month. However, starting this September, all patterns in Knipmode will be available in 11 sizes, up to European size 54 (131 cm / 51.5″ bust, 113 cm / 44.5″ waist and 138 cm / 54.3″ hip). Most of the patterns are also available as PDF downloads.
The next few photos show examples of the garments featured in the September issue:
Selections from Knipmode September 2015
More selections from Knipmode September 2015
Still more selections from Knipmode September 2015
When Knipmode’s editorial staff first mentioned changing to all-inclusive sizing, not all customers were jumping for joy. On social media, lots of concerns were expressed. Of course there were the “heaven forbid plus size girls sewing up skinny jeans” remarks by self-proclaimed members of the fashion police. But also, would this change mean ‘tent-dresses’ for all sizes? Could Knipmode make things work from a pattern drafting point of view?
Let’s take a closer look at the first pattern collection to see if this skepticism was justified. The next image shows a scan of the technical drawings for all patterns included in the September issue:
Knipmode September 2015 line drawings. (Click to enlarge.)
First impression: This is a well-balanced collection containing skirts, blouses, dresses, pants and jackets. Shapeless? Some patterns are; but boxy, cropped tops are popular items in many autumn collections. One could say there’s some heavy relying on stretch fabrics going on, but then again, it’s not unlike trends seen in RTW. When we zoom in on jackets, we see patterns for oversized coats and boxy jackets with cut on sleeves, but we also see a fitted princess seamed jacket with two-piece sleeves.
A selection of jacket patterns
My personal favourite from this issue must be the Salvatore Ferragamo knock off:
Salvatore Ferragamo knock-off
I contacted the editorial staff to find out more about the drafting and testing process. Knipmode’s patternmakers work with two different blocks for each pattern: One for sizes 34-44 (B-cup), and one for sizes 46-54 (C-cup). Grading steps are different for both blocks (see the size chart below). Garments are then sewn and tested on fitting models for standard sizes 36 and 46.
Knipmode Size Chart
Now, let’s address the elephant in the room. If you offer all patterns in eleven different sizes, why do all of the models in your magazine wear the same size?? It can’t be a cost issue. Some patterns show up six times, in different fabrics, on different models, such as the skirt pictured below.
Same skirt, six different styles
Readers expressed their disappointment about changing the size range for the patterns, but not for the models. I feel that this is a missed opportunity. The May 2015 Knipmode came with a supplement that, in retrospect, can be seen as a pilot. Ten patterns were available in ten sizes. All outfits were shown on models in both size 36 and 46. For example, the next photo shows the same outfit on models of two different sizes:
Same outfit, different sizes
What marketing decision made them go back to small sizes only for the photoshoot? The editorial staff promised to look into the matter. Recently, they reached out to Dutch sewing forum Sancho. Some members will sew garments in their own size, and their pattern testing results will be evaluated. We’ll see what happens next.
Some facts about Knipmode
The first issue was published 46 years ago, and for decades, Knipmode was the number one gateway to sewing in The Netherlands. The magazine is widely available. In my village with a population of less than 15.000, it’s sold in two supermarkets, two bookstores, and a tobacco shop. That’s about every corner of the street. But competition is tough: Burda, La Maison Victor, Ottobre and several other sewing magazines are just as easily obtained at said retailers. Knipmode has been struggling, with print numbers dropping from 120.000 in 1999 to under 40.000 in 2014. I’ve seen advanced sewists move over to Vogue patterns, StyleArc, and Burda, while younger sewists are attracted by the fresh, modern styling of Flemish magazine La Maison Victor (though I rate the pattern quality of Knipmode considerably higher). Soon after the magazine was transferred to publisher New Skool Media in 2014, signs of a new strategy were showing. A German edition was launched under the name FashionStyle, followed by the release of a French edition. I guess it’s just a matter of time until an English edition will see the light of day.
What to expect from the magazine
The pattern instructions, although they became much more comprehensive over the years, are still sparse and can be compared to those of Burda and Ottobre: No hand holding, and just one diagram added for the fabric cutting layout. The workbook contains 14 pages of sewing tips with clear instructions and accompanying diagrams showing how to trace, cut, finish seams, sew zippers, fly fronts, collars, cuffs, curved waistbands and more. Each month a selected pattern is featured with three to four pages of step-by-step instructions.
Step-by-step instructions
I can’t avoid bringing up the inevitable any longer. No included seam allowances and tracing from pattern sheets. Oi. I suspect some of you will stop reading at this point. I think we all agree there’s not just one way of doing things in sewing, so I’d like to discuss the benefits of this method. Let’s get one thing straight first: you’re not supposed to grab your ruler and add seam allowances to the paper pattern pieces! The idea is to work with real stitching lines. Therefore, it’s best to use waxed tracing paper to mark the fabric, or, in case of lace, tweed or fragile fabric, thread trace all stitching lines. Now you have the freedom to add different seam allowances to different seams. Ever ran into trouble because your fashion fabric behaved differently from your muslin? Adding three centimeters to the shoulder or waist provides so much more fitting insurance. In the odd case that I skip making a muslin, adding extra width to the hip saved my butt more than once! Also, once you’ve set in a sleeve using real stitching lines you’ll be surprised how much more accurate your sewing is.
With the restyling, the size of the magazine increased so there’s extra room on the larger pattern sheets. It’s not complicated, in fact I really enjoy grabbing my coloured markers and do some tracing on nights when I’m too tired for sewing.
Knipmode pattern sheet
Where to find Knipmode patterns
For PDF downloads: go to the online shop: https://www.knipmode.nl/shop
Each week another one of the newest patterns is on sale (half price, 2.50 euro).
For the magazine: you can order here http://www.magvilla.nl/magazine/96/knipmode
This site offers worldwide shipping.
Knipmode online pattern shop
Having trouble reading Dutch? Maybe this glossary will help!
Knipmode Dutch sewing glossary
Final thoughts
I am pleasantly surprised by the fresh, new styling and the changes in the size range. Of course, there’s still room for improvement, and I certainly hope to see more advanced patterns in the next issues, but it’s a good start.
One thing cannot be left unmentioned. There is no information whatsoever about fitting in all 99 pages of the magazine, except for “if you’re in between sizes or shorter or taller than 172 cm you may need some adjustments.” When you take into account that neither Fitting and Pattern Alteration, nor the Palmer/Pletsch, Sarah Veblen, or Nancy Zieman fitting books have been translated into Dutch, and not all readers are mastering English, you can imagine how helpful a section about fitting would be. Replacing some of the sewing technique pages (plenty of good books covering these) by tips on how to do a FBA/SBA, make shoulder or sway back adjustments could be the fast track to better sewing results and happier customers.
I’m off to do some pattern testing! I enrolled for a three month trial subscription and can’t wait to have a close look at some of the patterns. What do you think of Knipmode’s restyling?
Disclaimer: this post contains no affiliate links. I paid for my copy and all opinions are my own.
About Marianne
Marianne has been happily sewing her way through life, from 70s hippie dresses and bell bottom jeans through an 80s wedding dress, followed by baby stuff, kids coats and prom dresses. Now she’s back to sewing one of a kind items for her own closet. Marianne is living in The Netherlands with her husband and a Border Terrier dog, aka the Furry Assistant. She’s blogging at Foxgloves and Thimbles.
That’s pretty cool!
What a great review and you have made some fantastic things using KnipMode. I think the European pattern magazines – from what I have seen – tend to do editorial photo shoot type views of their patterns and sometimes obscure the details or make it hard to see the garments which is unfortunate as they have some gems. Granted there are a lot of shapeless tops but as you say that is the trend for all sizes in Ready to wear now. I have had great success sewing for a plus size using Burda plus patterns, both the envelope and the PDF BurdaStyle patterns, I will have to check out these KnipMode also.
You are so right about about the editorial photo shoot type views, Beth! Even when garments are shown multiple times they manage to choose different pictures, all missing the same details. Sigh.
I’ve always loved Knipmode and the times I’ve subscribed to the magazine liked the cut of their patterns. Thanks for the review and the links.
Your review is much more eloquent than mine was, but I agree with you. Since I love the boxy/oversized style I actually liked many patterns from this issue. I’m going to the Albert Cuyp tomorrow and I’m going to try and find some fabric for long cardigan.
I think Knipmode made a very big step towards diversity. I hope Burda will see them as an example and do the same. Sure, there could be more different sizes represented in the magazine and I do hope that in the future they will show more diversity in their photo shoots. But this, for me, is a very good move, and I’m glad they made it.
Knipmode are really good BUT they are sized – understandably, given that they;re Dutch – for the taller end of the market. Those of us who, like me, are significantly underheight will have a lot of extra work to do.
Hey Marianne, thanks for the great review. As a Dutchie, I generally prefer the fit of Burda, but I’ve heard that Knipmode improved their patterns in the past years, so I’m really on the fence now.
Regarding fitting: there is no info in the magazine, but Knipmode does have its own book (see https://www.knipmode.nl/nieuws/2015/03/27/nieuw-en-geheel-herzien-het-handboek-voor-zelfmaakmode/). It covers mostly everything related to sewing (seams, pressing, cutting, zippers, pockets, etc etc) and has a section on fitting with all the basics included. I suspect they want their customers to buy the book and save money by printing long fitting-descriptions in each magazine.
I agree with the rest of the commenters. This is a great review.
On a more selfish note, anyone know how I can find the first Jackje on the website? I’m having no luck.
I’m afraid it’s not available as PDF. When you look at the technical drawings, only the ones marked with a red @ can be found on the website. I have no clue why the selection is limited, I’ll see if I can find out.
That’s a pity, but thank you for letting me know and thank you for asking. I may have just sent a Facebook message to someone linked into the Dutch community here to see if anyone in Ottawa carries the magazine.
‘Cause I also may need that pleated skirt in my life.
Actually, does anyone know if I’d be able to find the magazine in Geneva? I’ll be there in a couple of weeks.
I had no idea Knipmode offered PDF patterns, thanks for the tip. I do have to disagree about the seam allowances – one of the benefits of patterns without seam allowances is that you can add them to your paper pattern as you please. For instance, I switch between 1cm, 6mm and 1.5cm seam allowances depending on the type and location of the seam. Thread tracing stitching lines may be a couture technique but many sewists (myself included) may see it as a waste of time if you’re going to add seam allowances on the fabric anyway.
We agree to disagree 😉 I don’t think adding seam allowances to paper pattern pieces and keeping track of what goes where is faster than tracing wheel/wax paper and eyeballing preferred seam allowances while cutting. Fitting on the go can save extra time by skipping muslin making, in which case I prefer more generous seam allowances. I use couture techniques or cut corners, depending on my mood or the circumstances. Whatever works best for you!
What I love most about this collective is seeing how these patterns fit on real people. While the styles look great I just cant see my body type within these pictures. I look forward to seeing these creations in real mode. Thanks for the review.
I know! You can check the CSC Flickr page, I did post some garments made from Knipmode patterns. Over at my blog I posted a small round up.
I’ve been sick of Burda’s styles lately and Knipmode has caught my eye a few times in the last year, so I think this has pushed me over the edge to start subscribing…
Marianne, since you speak Dutch, is there anywhere online where I can buy an international subscription? (I’m in the US). I so would appreciate your help!
Hi Jamie! I’ve done some research and it is possible to get an international subscription. If you send an e-mail to klantenservice@newskoolmedia.nl they will make you an offer for the subscription and shipping costs. By the way, the Dutch word for subscription is ‘abonnement’, if you want to Google different options, but it’s okay to send the mail in English. Hope this works, if not, let me know!
Thank you so much for your help!!! I’ll give it a try.
I agree with everyone else. This is a great, well informed, and well thought out review, and I enjoyed reading it and learned lots. I don’t know if I will ever trace patterns though! But some of the styles are nice.
Thanks! You can always try the downloads if you don’t want to trace.
Your review is so great, Marianne! Thorough and critical. I had to get the pattern of the week (Jas). I love that oversized jacket. 🙂 Thanks for introducing me to the magazine. Now off to learn Dutch. 😉
You’re already making progress, Andie! Jas = coat 🙂
Marriane, what a FABULOUS review. Thank you so much. I didn’t know that KM had done this. And, I’m really pleased to get a glimpse of what they are up to. Also, BRAVO for talking to the editorial team instead of just talking ‘off the top of your head’ so to speak. Really interesting to hear their take and the changes that have happened. CSC: Keep it up!
Fact checking rules! The editorial team was very cooperative and answered all questions within a few hours. I’m glad to hear you liked the review!
It looks like I’m going to have to find a copy now! I’m familiar with burdastyle, ottobre and la maison victor, but not knipmode.
It’s always nice to discover new pattern resources, right?
As a n00b to sewing magazines, I’m totally excited for this to be released in English! I hope its soon. 🙂 I’m a little overwhelmed at the thought of tracing patterns and grading up….but excited for the challenge!
Great review. 🙂
It’s only rumours so far! If you don’t like tracing you could try the pdf downloads, and use google translate for the instructions.
Thanks so much for your very thorough review. I look forward to further developments with Knipmode and hope they will eventually have an English version available.
Thank you for sharing a comprehensive review of the new Knipmode. I have several issues from around 2008-2011, and enjoyed the different styling and patterns. It’s helpful to know that sizes 46-54 are graded for a C-cup. Hopefully it will save some time fitting garments.
What a fantastic review! These images actually appeal a lot more to me than regular BurdaStyle patterns so I’ll have to see if I’m brave enough..
Brave, why? I guess we’re all biased and believe the way we initially learned to do something is the best. That said I still hate tissue paper with a passion and often cut off all included seam allowances but some patterns are absolutely worth the trouble!
I have several Knips, but I haven’t sewn anything from them yet. For me, I’m not brave enough (though I wouldn’t really use brave but I can see why someone might) to trust my language skills. I don’t know Dutch, but I know a few related languages. I’m not sure I have enough sewing skills and ability to translate to give it a decent go.
The perks of sparse instructions: there’s not too much to translate 🙂 You could try and choose a pattern, let’s say for a button down shirt, from Knipmode and use the order of construction from a shirt pattern with English instructions.
I am happy they are expanding the size range.. I never even look at KnipMode because most of the patterns needed too much sizing up to even make it interesting.. Now I’ll keep an eye on it and see if anything catches my fancy.