When I started sewing my wardrobe about two years ago, a whole world opened up. Other sewists have said it before (and said it more eloquently), but sewing made me love my body. I realized that when RTW clothes don’t fit in the dressing room, it’s because there is something wrong with the clothes, not something wrong with my body. Sewing my own garments has made me realize (not just in my head, but in my soul) that truly, no two bodies are alike and I should never feel “less than” because I don’t fit into something off the rack.
That said, even with sewing, I am still running into “fat girl” syndrome – that sinking feeling when I realize I am outside of a given pattern’s size range. I’m not talking about having to blend a few sizes, or do a standard alteration like a full bust adjustment. I’m speaking to the not-so-infrequent situations where a pattern stops short of what a reasonable person would consider “plus size.”
Here’s what runs through my head when I see that this pattern isn’t “meant” for me:
I am too fat for this dress/shirt/pants.
Um, no. This concept makes me want to say all the bad words. If sewing for myself has taught me anything, you are NEVER too fat to wear anything.
Ladies of all shapes and sizes can rock whatever look they want (and do it with awesome results) if given the proper tools. But still… what does it say that the pattern doesn’t come in my size? Maybe it’s that…
This pattern designer does not want to see people “like” me in his/her designs.
Much like the fat-shaming incidents with Lulu Lemon and Abercrombie & Fitch, I’m sure there are some pattern designers out there that don’t want chubby chicks messing up their cool image. Again, cue all the bad words coming from my mouth. Or maybe not – perhaps these designers are all about inclusivity. But given the notable lack of curvy (let alone outright fat) girls incorporated into the branding of most pattern designers, I do wonder. (Colette and Cashmerette, you two are a blessed oasis – rock on.)
Maybe I’m over-reacting.
Once I dig my way out of the shame spiral, I am able to clearly articulate reasons why a pattern designer might not choose to be more inclusive in their sizing:
- There are fewer women in the upper reaches of the sizes – there simply isn’t enough market to justify designing a plus-size range.
- Plus sizes have a different body block – that is, going from a size 6 to 8 to 10 is not the same (geometrically speaking) as going from a 22 to 24 to 26. Fat bodies are different than skinny bodies in terms of general proportion – while our busts get significantly bigger, our shoulders generally do not, nor do our arms grow in length at the same proportion that our waists do.
- Doing *good* designs for a range of sizes may double the work – since it’s not just a matter of extending out the current sizing method. And if there aren’t enough fat ladies buying the larger pattern sizes, the return on investment goes way down.
- People outside the range of the current sizing can simply grade up a pattern. We’ve seen lots of examples on the CSC of pattern grading (Tanya’s ridiculously awesome trench coat comes to mind.) My current size 20-22 means that I often fit in the top half of the largest pattern size, but need to grade out the hips a couple of inches.
So what do I (or we, as the CSC) do about it?
Obviously, I want pattern designers to be commercially successful. I recognize that people gotta pay their bills. Still… do I want to give my hard-earned money to a designer who doesn’t think it’s “worth it” (for whatever reason) to include people of my size in their offerings?
What message am I sending to myself, to the designer, and to the world when I buy from a designer that doesn’t include me in their sizing? On the flip side, what do I give up when I choose to boycott non-inclusive pattern designers? For one, I would be dramatically limiting myself to only a few designers that do consistently use inclusive sizing.
I’m on the fence – I want to make a point in “voting with my pocketbook” to support those designers that officially see me as part of their target demographic. But on the other hand, I’m not sure how effective a boycott really is.
Would it be more effective to grade up patterns and show the designers how awesome their patterns can be on a larger body in hopes of convincing them to be more inclusive? Or would doing that simply emphasize that fat ladies are willing to grade up and therefore designers don’t need to do the work?
Curvy ladies, I am eager to hear your opinions. Tell me what you think.
So you didn’t know about my evil plan to bring down American clothing stores?
I’m not boycotting them, I’m just not finding anything to buy. Which is the same thing.
Pattern grading is hard. Most instructions are wrong headed (I do not grow in all directions; just out, not up) and I just keep banging my head into my keyboard in frustration. To make a size 20 style, you need to draft a new block for size 20 and onward, not slice up the old one.
Indie pattern makers don’t have the staff or the software to add those items. Most of them don’t seem to know how to draft a pattern beyond a sack for ANYONE. Jenny is an exception and will succeed because she has a product that people want and others can’t figure out how to make, much less sell.
What I’ve seen is that the prevaling market does not think ‘fat’ people are sexy. Whenever I see a person who is rockin’ their assets, I always ask them where they got their clothes. I will run across the street to do this. We’ve been sold a bill of goods that comes in a big floral sack. So that’s the kind of sewing pattern on the right side of the size chart. You want style lines? Curves? Drop dead.
Hi Jennifer. I read this post with a great deal of interest. I do not like the idea of being marginalized either. My feeling is that you should have a sewathon. I am not a big fan of these myself, given my age and physique. But I think the best way to deal with the too small designer pattern issues is to settle on one desirable pattern and tutorial the hell out of it. Slash and spread, FBA, large bicep and every other potential larger body alteration that can be done. Make sure that the finished results are posted on other blogs. The industry follows them too
At the very least, cc followers will have something well fitting and awesome to wear. Pattern designers will see that their designs do not flatter just the slim. Exposure on a broad scale will at the very least, make pattern makers aware that there are people out there who can take their idea and run with it.
Another thing I would like to see, is several tutorials on adapting these designer patterns to make tops, skirts, even jackets using a designer dress pattern. I figure that designers will not be happy with the thought that anybody could alter one of their patterns for a different effect.
I believe that not only larger women, but everyone with some sort of fitting issue would benefit. It might make it a little hard on you guys, to have to demonstrate so many versions of the same pattern, but given the fact that everyone has different alterations to calculate and adjust, it would help.
This may not help motivate pattern designers to be more inclusive in their products, but they will be aware that there are things we can do to take matters in our own hands. Whether they like it or not.
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Interesting post. I have heard multiple times from multiple sources that half the women are size 14 and above! Since I heard this several years ago, I suspect that it has only gone up, at least from my view of women when I am out and about. I know I have gone from about a 24-26W to a 26-28W at this point, but I’m trying to drop back that one size since I have a closet full of clothes in the lower sizes and none in the higher. With bad RA I don’t have the sewing energy like I used to.
I know I don’t want to resize patterns. I’m not good at it and have no helpers, so I would prefer patterns that fit from the get go. On top of the larger sizes I can’t wear back zippers (or back buttons), can’t deal with small front buttons, can’t stand anything skin tight, so need a loose comfy fit.
I have been selling sewing patterns on line now for about 10 years and so have seen some things. Women’s Plus size (forgive me if that is a bad phrase here) has always been my focus when buying patterns. I buy them to resell before anything else. Yet currently I have 5277 Misses patterns (up to size 26 but not designated women’s size) and only 322 women’s patterns for sale. Yet I sell a lot of women’s size in a far great amount than what those figures would suggest. Many of my multiple pattern orders are for the large size patterns.
Butterick carries Connie Crawford patterns which go in size from 3-44W in two separate size ranges. Vogue has the Sandra Betzina Today’s Fit range that goes from approximately 10-32W, all the newer pattern from her are in one envelope. Some of the major companies are seeing the light and have women”s sizes to 32W but not a whole lot of those patterns come out new each season. However the are trying, but I don’t think a boycott would work unless it is just for your own sake. I make quilts so I boycott Chinese ‘handmade’ quilts that sell for $29.99 or whatever, and that is my shoice.
Rather than boycotting, write to those major manufacturers and tell them what you need and want to see. Pass the word about these small companies that are selling patterns for the larger woman as well. I once had a guy ask where he could find a pattern for a size 10XXXXXXXXXXL shirt. I couldn’t find a single source for him. I don’t see many clothes manufacturered for those kind of sizes, nor any patterns so what do those people wear????
As I said an interesting topic and something I have been thinking about for years.
I have been sewing since I was 12 yrs old. I sewed my own wedding dress (30 yrs ago) because a RTW dress was a joke. My bust is huge but below I was ‘normal’. I had no idea how to make a full bust adjustment. Thank goodness I found CSC last year!
I struggle wanting a pretty wardrobe for a reasonable price when one pattern can cost over $20. Indie patterns may be able to revolutionize my sewing if I get over the cost but then printing them at home can be an insane proposition. I looked at one that was 64 pages! Not all offer printed patterns. So pay big price and use most of an ink cartridge to print one pattern with enough pages to kill a small tree. Or keep hiding in a baggy t shirts. I felt like I found someone who understood my size but I can’t afford them.
I think looking for basic patterns that will fit well and that have style “staying power” are important for building a pattern base. For example: a t-shirt pattern, a pair of pull-on pants/shorts, a knit skirt, a wrap dress, and a button up shirt (with half-placket option) currently make up about 60% of my wardrobe. Increasingly I’m looking for styles that I can easily tweak — using different fabrics, different hem lengths, different sleeves, etc. — so that 5-6 patterns turns into a very extensive wardrobe.
I agree with you Jennifer. Basics are the way to go. I find that I wear the same styles all the time anyway, whether I make them or purchase them. It’s just nicer to make items that fit better and are more flattering as a result. With any basic pattern, you can lengthen, shorten, color block, change sleeve types, collars, etc. That’s really what pattern designers do anyway. Mary in AZ
Heidi, that is exactly the point I was trying to make earlier when I commented that we cannot expect there to be a pattern for every single body type or size out there. And while the curvy community is certainly entitled to the same designs as the next person, not every curvy girl sews, or is even interested in sewing. So while there are a lot of us, the companies are not really marketing to all of us, if that makes sense. The cost to design and grade patterns in this manner takes a LOT of money, and unless the designer is independently wealthy, they would have to sell thousands of patterns to re-coup their costs for designing, grading, printing, marketing, etc. I agree that $20 and up is a lot to pay for a pattern that, in the end, may or may not work to our satisfaction; however that is the reality of business.
I buy big 4 patterns only when they are on sale, anywhere from $1.00 to $4.99 apiece. Never buy patterns at full price, except from and indie company. And if it is full price, it had better have lots of options and sizes. In big 4, I buy18-20 for shoulders, and grade up in the multisizes. I’m more like a 26-28 in the hips and tummy, patternwise. Sometimes I find great patterns at thrift shops for 10-25 cents each. If the style is timeless, the pattern still works.
I don’t boycott companies that don’t have my size, but I don’t buy from them either.
I am at the bottom end of plus size in the big4 and there are plenty of designers out there who are catering to plus sizes. Some of them are at the lower end, and some of them go up to 3-4XL. Some of them also have their own sizing scheme which confuses some buyers as well.
I think we are getting more choice, and I know there are enough designers out there to mess up my budget.
You make the assumption that all plus size women can grade a pattern. That really cuts into your “polling” for opinions.
I am a very tall, obese woman which puts me out of almost ALL patterns. I have no choice but to only buy patterns that size up to a 32. I’m not actively “boycotting” other pattern designers, but I have no interest in grading a pattern. I’ve tried to grade, but it’s very time consuming and frustrating to do so.
I do take exception to the wide range of “plus size” nomenclature. If a size 12 is a plus size, what is a size 30, tent size?
Your poll touched a nerve, to be sure. I do not believe there are enough options for the “Ultra Plus Size” woman or whatever the heck the label would be for my size.
Those of you who grade, why don’t you do some designing? Sell the patterns as a download on Etsy.
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I think my point is that all women *can* grade a pattern (with enough time, patience, and practice) but that very few of us want to do so. (I will only do a simple “add an inch to the hips” grading– anything more and I lose interest.)
No, your belief that ‘all women can grade’ is untrue and could even be considered somewhat arrogant. I am unable to do so as I have a visual impairment which currently makes it well-nigh impossible, and physically painful into the bargain, for me to either grade up, or grade between sizes, on a typical Big 4 multisize pattern. I also cannot accurately tape A4 PDFs together, thus grading on those is also impossible.
I do regularly use two non-Big 4 brands (and very occasionally another two) with success, due to the sizes available, the quality of the printing and paper used and the quality of the drafting.
I agree we should be letting the pattern designers know how we feel, whether we shop them now or not. CSC, how about setting up a “petition” (for lack of a better word) that those of us who want to, can put our names to, so we can send the message as one passionate, collective voice rather than scattered individual ones.?
Maybe instead of a petition, we can do an “open letter” that explains our frustration and desire for more inclusive sizing. Agree/disagree?
I agree, I did not know that there where options for me. When I have to spend twice as much time altering my pattern, fixing the dress before final sewing, it makes me want to SCREAM! But since I have found this blog, and the pattern makers, SBCC, Petitite Patterns, Collette, Cashmerette, and those who understand tummies, I am enjoying sewing so much more. Now I can learn sewing techniques verus constantly worrying about my fit.
To those who say, but I can buy a big box pattern when on sale for a couple of bucks, I say, use these incredible patterns as a base, and learn how to change with choice of fabric, or hacks, which the pattern companies are so generous.
Patterns 4 pirates has an impressive size range.
XXS to xxxl.
Cute patterns too.
I spend a LOT of money on patterns that I like. I tend to only actually sew up about a fifth of the PDF patterns and maybe about a 20th of the paper patterns (I get most of them on sale for $1, so I’m as picky as with PDFs.) At least so far. When I find a pattern designer that is way outside of my size range, I just discount them completely. But it’s a silent boycott. I’m disappointed, but it’s within their rights to exclude me if they want. So I’ve never actually let them know I would buy patterns if they went up to my size range. Maybe I should start doing that, even if it doesn’t help me, maybe it’ll at least get the designer to start thinking about it. I can grade patterns up and I have for a few dresses that were unique designs, but I really don’t want to do that much work unless the pattern is just amazing.
I feel like there are quite a few indie designers who have patterns in my size, but I feel like most of the newer ones all just have the same old boring patterns. Raglan tee, dolman tee, elastic waist shift dress, gathered and/or pleated skirt fit and flare dress, kimono, leggings, cowl neck top, basic pencil skirt, peasant blouse/dress…. yawn… Granted, these are all fairly basics that are good to have patterns for, but I’ve got one (or more) of each of these already. I really am not going to pay $12+ for yet another one. I’m so ready for some better options.
Specifically, I would LOVE, LOVE, LOVE to find an indie (PDF) designer who creates some formal wear friendly patterns that include plus sizes. I probably go to more formal events than the average woman, but every time I go shopping for a dress to wear, I usually just find “mother of the bride” style dresses or such that don’t suit my style. I love my By Hand London Anna pattern that I graded up 3 sizes and I’ve made 3 variations/hacks of this dress so far that do actually look quite distinct from each other. But I want some brilliant designer to come up with some better options for me.
My goodness, that’s a lot of pent up chatter. We should unite. Have a pattern library. I took the Crafty classes on Large Size and How to Change your pattern. Just think if we shared our already changed patterns, it would save us a lot of work. Any one else interested?
Unfortunately this would violate intellectual property rights. It’s one thing to show how you did it, but another to outright share the pattern that someone put all the original work into and charges money for.
I am interested in sharing – with regards to copyrights of course.
Though in my mind, the dress or shirt or pants were all created hundreds of years ago. The basic pattern hasn’t changed. The people with ‘new’ patterns are making a microscopic change then calling it theirs to make money. I appreciate their efforts but it’s rare to find a true ‘original’.
Super interesting topic. I personally do kind of boycott pattern designers that only do “skinny”, meaning both in terms of sizing and designs (no shaping, hems that barely cover your booty, no space for the ladies, etc…). At the same time I try to encourage designers by grading up patterns that could potentially work well for “curves” and frequently volunteer to test patterns to show how they work on my size and remind designers that there definitely is a marked for more size inclusive patterns. I recently got feedback from a designer whose pattern I tested and graded up that she is planning on expanding her size range – so I feel like it might be working…
Yes! I love the approach of pattern testing as a way to engage more directly with the designers…
I would not be the first to admit that I have noticed a huge difference in the availability of fashionable and attractive patterns for thick women compared to those that aren’t so thick (I am trying not to offend). Some of the clothing patterns available for women who are bigger than a size 14 are just plain ugly. As a newcomer to the world of sewing, I was disappointed at first but I truly think that the availability of unavailability of stylish clothing mirrors the clothing market in that many designers assume that thick women would rather be comfortable than chic. What tells me is that they really have NO idea what is at the core of every thick woman…essence.
I don’t fault designers for not understanding the needs and wants of curvy women. They are in the business of making money and that is what motivates them. Rather than boycotting designers that don’t currently have designs that are suitable for curvy women, why don’t we turn our frustrations into positive action…let’s petition and petition and ask and petition for those same designers to consider our community as one that wants to be just as fashionable and as cute as our smaller counterparts.
Let’s write them and call them and email them and text them and twitter them until they understand that we represent a whole lot of women who see ourselves ad beautiful and worthy of equality in fashion!
I respectfully feel that no one can please all of the people all of the time. If every pattern was made to fit every single body type, the cost would be outrageous. And rightly so. You can line up 15 women who are a size 24 and they would still need to alter their patterns to accommodate where their fullness, or lack of it, is, their height, their design-ease preferences, etc. The point of learning to sew well is to know your own body type and practice to make it your own. Believe it or not, even “skinny girls” have issues, it’s not just a curvy thing. Everyone is getting so defensive about being left out – come on!
I don’t think anyone here is arguing that all patterns should fit every body right out of the envelope. What we (or at least I) am saying is that having to change EVERY SINGLE LINE of a pattern to grade it up, before making all of my standard alterations, is asking a lot and in general, is not something I’m willing to do.
Very well said Mary. When I was thin I had to make the very same adjustments that I have to make now that I am fat. My bodice pattern piece looks as if it went thur a shredder after I make all the adjustments. Maybe my point of view is different from someone who has learned to sew in the multi size pattern era vs when I leaned to sew there was only one size in the envelope so you had to grade every pattern you worked with. Grading a pattern was part of the skill set you needed if you were going to sew your own clothes.
Oh this post has just hit the spot. I was really saddened last night when my 14 year old, perfectly healthy daughter came home last night asking to be measured for a sewing project at school. They are learning to use and read a shop bought pattern this year. She was so thrilled to finally get to do a grown up project. I took her measurements and then had to match it up to her pattern size. Of course her chest was size 10 and her hips size 14. I watched her face fall in horror as she said, “Does that mean I am a size 14?”I just wanted to cry. I have tried really hard to give all my girls a healthy body image but they are constantly bombarded by media and peers of what a perfect body should like. I will get her to read this post so she can see how it is all a farce.
With regard to boycotting, I feel we, the consumer, need to be more vocal about our needs. Eventually they will hear. Perhaps it is a unique niche for a new business venture for an entrepreneur 😉
Also, one thing to remember is that sewing pattern sizes are not the same as RTW sizes. According to my measurements, I fall exactly as a 26 in the Big 4 patterns, but I wear a size 16 RTW jeans/pants and sometimes as high as an 18 RTW in dresses.
Yes, Pattern sizes are way off RTW sizes. I normally have a size 12 and was also shocked to be a size 20 according to measurements. I one time had to order the “Plus-Size” version of a pattern, wait for it for weeks only to find that even the smallest size in that envelope is way too large. I really don’t know how they come up with the size numbers…
So you can tell your daughter not to give a hoot about what the number is. Clothing is made to fit you, not the other way round.
I have believed for years that a good designer could make millions designing gorgeous plus size clothing. I would be so thrilled. I’m not talented enough to do alterations to meet my size on the clothing I want. Why is it that curvy women can’t have pretty clothes?
I can do the alterations, but I don’t want to. My war cry is slightly different: why can’t curvy women have pretty clothes without essentially designing them ourselves? (Because after altering every line of the pattern, we might as well be designing it ourselves.)
I am not plus sized, per se. I am a RTW 14 in the bust and a 10 on the bottom, which roughly translates to a big 4 18 on top and 14 on bottom. I am busty (in fact my dress form is named Busty LaRue), and petitte which means I typically have to pick up a larger pattern and petitte it, which can be trouble some in the case of some of the patterns that have a lot of pieces through the midsection. Since I enjoy a fairly traditional silhoutte, I have found myself using my sloper to draft my own patterns. It is so much easier than having to cut and tape a pattern to the point it is unrecongizable.
I am not sure that I would support a boycott, since there is a certain independence inherent in sewing our own clothes. But I am learning to voice my opinion whenever it is asked for, instead of keeping my thoughts to myself.
Yes! I’m not advocating a formal “sign this petition to boycott XXX Patterns” but I do think that a quick email to the designer saying “Hey, I loved your new pattern but it is outside of my size range. Please do consider more inclusive sizing — you have paying customers at the ready!” might strike the right note.
I think this is a very interesting question. Or proposition, for that matter. I think that there are a lot of “natural” consequences for ignoring this particular division in the pattern industry. Although I have been sewing forever, I don’t have the fitting skills to grade. Hotpatterns, Collette and Cashmerette are my mainstays. Burda breaks my heart all of the time because while they have developed a plus line, I’d rather wear a gunny sack most of the time.
I find myself constantly seeking things I can successfully make, wear to work and look good. I have battled my weight most of my adult life and I am trying, now that I am a senior citizen, to find health and love my body, no matter what size I am.
Boycotting may seem like an extreme measure. However, let me just say that since I don’t have the skills to grade and fit, I am cut out of buying some of those patterns anyway.
I know that Colette actually surveyed and then decided to grade their patterns up. Most companies should consider it, but if they don’t, then this is one consumer that will be overlooking their offerings.
Yes! I think that many of us are de-facto boycotting simply because we don’t have the time/will/interest in making excessive alternations that come with grading up a pattern. Maybe what I’m advocating for is that rather than simply not-buying, we also let the designer know that we *want* to, but won’t be buying until the sizes are more inclusive.
I’m 4’9″ and an 18. Regardless of RTW or patterns, I expect to have to make alterations. Since I’m usually at the top end of the range, I don’t mind having to make adjustments but don’t think boycotting is the answer. I took up learning to sew as a study of techniques and skills that I enjoy the challenge to get it right and study the fit.
I think there is a fundamental different between making alterations (even significant alterations) and having to significantly grade up a pattern. When every single line on the pattern is different, we might as well just draft our own patterns (for free) based on a little “internet inspiration,” no?
I’m not aware of a single pattern company that makes anything that would fit me without major alteration, so not sure a boycott would really be appropriate from me! Surely if a pattern is worth the effort to grade then it’s ‘better’ in some way than others, so designers with limited size ranges have to make ‘better’ patterns for them to be bought by plus sized women – in which case things will adjust naturally as more pattern designers with different ranges pop up and others go out of business ?
I guess part of my frustration is that I’m not sure that pattern designers really have a feel for what kind of market they are missing by not including plus sizes. Maybe rather than a boycott, we just need a standard way to let them know that “hey, we’re out here, and we’d love for you to be more accommodating to larger sizes”. Not mean or antagonistic, but clearly communicating our presence. Agree/disagree?
I think the success that I assume Cashmerette patterns will have may open the eyes of some pattern designers! 🙂 I think you are right that a lot of designers just don’t know how many of us are out here.
I have to say, I have noticed more extended sizing of late. For instance, I just bought the Itch-to-Stitch Mila shirt pattern, which goes up to a 49″ bust, 40 1/2 waist, 48″ hips (cup size A through DD). I first looked at her patterns several years ago, if I remember correctly, but they weren’t even close to my size. Now many of them go up to a 20DD. I know, still not great, but better than a 16B. Style Arc is another company that has been doing a lot more extended size patterns.
As someone else said, I’ve been de facto boycotting for years. But I think you are right that we need to let designers know what we need, and that we are willing to pay for attractive, well-fitting clothes.I really believe that most (not all, but most) people aren’t intentionally mean or exclusionary, they’re just thoughtless. By thoughtless I mean they really just have never thought about it. But generally, people want to do the right thing if they can. We just need to tell them what the right thing is.
I feel like a survey would be useful. Even the basic bust/waist/hip measurements from a range of folks would be illuminating I reckon. Perhaps a petition could just ask the designer to run such a survey on their website? Then they would see how many curvy folks were interested (or not, I guess) in their patterns and they can make an informed choice as to whether they think it’s worth extending their size range.
This is one “hot” topic. All the remarks are great and I agree with most all of them. I have been sewing for 60 years now. When I was younger, I could take a pattern (as you young folks say Vintage) and go with it. Perfect fit every time. However with age, time, health, children, etc. My body has changed so much. I am a very curvy petite that has lost height the last few years. Sometimes I find pattern drafting difficult. My grandmother could take a picture from a magazine and make a dress just like it using her own self made patterns. I do not have her talent by any means, however I take pattern pieces from other patterns and use them together to get the look I want to achieve. It is hard to find good designs for the senior and curvy woman.
Keep trying one day we will get through it together.
I definitely agree! The more experience I get, the more I lean towards mashing patterns together for new looks with pieces I know will work for my body.
My main statement is this: If I can buy clothes that fit my size (~4x) in stores, why can’t I buy patterns in that size? Those clothes were made with–guess what–patterns!
That said, I recently graded up a size 24 blouse to my size–probably around a size 36w in big 4 sizes if they went up that far. It worked, but it’s a bit of a drudge to get it right.
Agree — even if the grading isn’t perfect, I have to wonder how much effort it would really take to just expand the sizing and tell people “here’s the best start — begin your alterations from here!”
I completely agree, it’s hard to know if a pocketbook boycott will work but if you add a letter or email that states why (in grown-up language) why you’re doing this maybe, just maybe, the big 4 and a few of the middle will see that a viable market is not only being ignored but underserved. I have adjustment issues even if I’m a “normal” size so I have to learn to alter. Not everyone is comfortable or adept at that. If you’re just starting out you think you can trust the Biggies to help and what a disappointment when this is far from the case. Makes you wonder how many have been turned off from sewing, That’s why finding the Indie designers and pattern companies have been a god- send and a source I’ll happily turn to now that I’m sewing more.
Yes — I love the idea of a standard template that we can all use that very politely and professionally invites the designer to consider more inclusive sizing. Something that we can easily tailor to different designer and companies. Maybe even a post on CSC (like an “open letter” format) that we could link to, to easily share on designer social media and websites when they announce a new pattern?
Great idea. I think it could work
I always appreciate your thought provoking blogs Jennifer! I think to some extent many curvy women DO boycott pattern companies who fail to be inclusive just because it’s SO much work to adjust a pattern to fit when it’s not designed to do so. You just might as well make your own patterns from scratch and I’m sure many do! I certainly favour pattern designers who include larger bust sizes in their patterns just because it makes my work so much easier 🙂
Thanks Kathleen! I know that cup sizes and larger bust options have opened up a whole new world of woven tops to me — I *can* do the alterations, but realistically I am never going to prioritize it over all the other things in my life. I’ve also found that volunteering to be a pattern tester specifically for the larger sizes can be an incentive for help encourage designers to go up a size or two.
I am 5’11” and a 5x so I am basically out of range of just about everything. I would love a pattern to fit me without a zillion adjustments but my fashion fairy godmother is out of town. As to boycotting, I think that is a dead end. Most of those, if responding to such tactics, would likely to just up size/enlarge and would not reblock (we see that in some lines today) so even though the size is there, you end up looking like a big midget in a tent. Then the patterns would not sell and the designer would see their predicted failure.
I love the new indies that are specializing in our curvy sizes. They are responsive to feedback and modern in look. Try getting that out of a big house that see curvy folks are just a by blow to the main business. Go indie for us!
Yes — I love the Cashmerette line for curvy ladies. Over the last year, my wardrobe is getting increasingly weighted (ha ha) towards patterns and designers who specifically design with plus sizes in mind.
Writing this before I’m influenced by other’s comments.
I think that designers make clothing that they want to wear. So if that person is a size 8, then she’s probably going to stick to sizing around what she knows. Grading patterns for shapes unlike your own takes learning about those shapes. When your making patterns as a side business in addition to working another full time job or being a parent, you only have so much time and mind space to work towards your pattern business. It seems perfectly logical that you would want to spend your time and money on making patterns for what you know and working to establish your business before branching out.
Look at Colette, Sewaholic, and Jennifer Lauren. None of the owners are what I think of as plus size. They are started with a small size range and then once their business was more established they branched into a larger size range. On the other side of the fence, Cashmerette started with a higher size range because that is where she fits and saw that there was an untapped market.
So my advice would be the same as buying anything. Don’t even look at what doesn’t fit your needs. If your wedding dress budget is $200, then don’t go shopping at Kleinfeld’s. If you know a pattern range doesn’t carry your size and you don’t want to grade up, then focus your time looking at patterns that are in your range. I feel all of us can get caught up in the new pretty trend, but in the end people make their business to reflect their personal size and style. As consumers we can choose how to spend our money without having to go to the extreme of boycotting.
Damn you and your rational comments!
I totally agree that focusing on the pattern designers that are already inclusive is a good place to start. I’m really happy with my Cashmerette and Hey June patterns, which I can make out of the envelope with only minor alterations. I hope that more pattern designers move in this direction — but you’re right, once you’ve found a handful of “tried and true” patterns you can tweak them endlessly to reflect your personal style!
I stopped sewing for myself when I got to the top of the pattern sizes, The designs for the 26-28 are awful and not stylish. I don’t have time to alter the pattern and make the dress.. My last attempt at a multiple size pattern ended in a disaster in of all places the sleeves.. I have a couple of Craftsy kits I have to put together.
I have been sewing since I was a pre-teen and I am now in my late sixties. So the styles are an issue also.
Have you tried the new Cashmerette Concord T-shirt? It’s been getting pretty great reviews on social media and seems like it would be ideal as a wardrobe builder: http://shop.cashmerette.com/products/concord-t-shirt-printed-pattern
I think NOT buying their patterns is the definitely the way to go. By doing all the work ourselves se are saying ” I’ll take what I can get” mentality we have had to deal with, in clothing and many other aspects of our lives all due to our size. We need to embrace ourselves as we are! And demand others do the same. We are nothing to be ashamed of, and are as worthy as the size 6s in the world
Yes! I love this comment!
Thanks for your comments — I wake up many days thinking “you will not get my money until you include me!” but then, the pattern is so cute…
I am tall (5’10”) and curvy so I have always had to adjust patterns. I attended a Connie Crawford class on slopers. Took a class on fitting at a local technical school, and made a fitting mannequin out of tape when I took Barbara Deckert class on plus size fitting. And you know what? I didn’t like anything I sewed because the problem is me. Now I am in Weight Watchers happily losing weight until I get to the version of me that I want to sew for again. I’m grateful I can do that. Some people have health issues and can’t. I get that.
My point here is that I really am fine with being a tall, curvy plus size. I can’t see boycotting the pattern companies just because they don’t draft to my size, anymore than I can do anything about all of the fabric store closings or make Burda patterns easier to use because I love their designs but hate the patterns.
I don’t think a boycott would have an impact. Knowledge is our power, so I’m thrilled we have resources like Craftsy classes and Curvy Sewing Collective so we can grow our skills. I also think in time the designers will seek us out to make more sales. Hopefully sooner instead of later.
I have definitely seen an uptick in designers gradually expanding their sizing — and I can get away without significantly grading about half of the patterns I bought last year. But I think that many of the size 26+ ladies are still left very much in the cold. Solidarity sisters!
One issue you missed on your perfectly reasonable reasons list is that there isn’t a lot of training in how to write patterns for plus sizes. Especially if the designer herself hasn’t had to learn out of necessity. That’s a big thing, that’s hard as hell to correct.
BUT that means that it’s also not quite so simple for US to learn to grade up, especially if it’s more than a couple of inches at the hips (which is kind of where my body is, too). Some of us can reasonably easily grade up from the largest size but others really can’t. Because it’s NOT straightforward and simple.
I’m not sure HOW we shift that though. Buying from those that DO produce patterns for larger sizes helps. Sharing those so the market for that stuff is visible helps. BUt there is some deeper systemic thing going on.
Thanks for your comment — it didn’t even occur to me that the training for plus sizes would need to be different — but OF COURSE it does!
It’s a totally different block. The ratios are all different. You don’t make wedding dresses to fit men on patterns made for women, you don’t take a size 10 and change it into a 40.
I remember at the start of my sewing, being concerned with what I thought were the different basic fit blocks of the pattern companies. I’d get the Vogue fitting pattern and the Simplicity, and I’d know what my basic adjustments for their other patterns would be.
That ‘block’ has changed over the years, waists, bustpoints, shoulder spread, crotch profile. I had to alter every pattern every time. It’s exhausting, and I do more drafting than sewing.
As a dressmaker, and as a person, I work exclusively with big and tall and fat people and I make many different things for them. I draft from scratch. It takes less time. Somebody points at a dress or shirt they like, we talk about what they like about it, and go from there. It’s easier to add features than to guess how to edit them on someone else’s body type’s pattern sheets.
I already vote with my dollars, so I don’t know if boycotting is the right word for me. Very petite people, very tall people, us… don’t we all have some designers that are awesome for exactly what we need? And, I know – it’s never enough. I prefer to bring the attention of designers to the makers who have graded their patterns, so I crosspost on IG or tag designers so they can see what they “could” do. If they aren’t responding within a season or two, I think they just aren’t. Like, I love some of Amy Butler’s tops, but after all these years, I haven’t noticed the sizes budge. So, thanks, but no thanks, Amy. I only grade if I LOVE something because I have a very muddy, dirty lifestyle – my jeans and tees get the most wear. If I am going to take the time to make a nice outfit, I am going to search for the patterns that work for me in my size. I feel like this response is a bit all over the place, but your article has me really thinking so I wanted to respond while I had the chance.
I’ve found that volunteering to be a pattern tester at “max size + 1” can be an effective way to engage with designers in helping them see their patterns on a wider range of body types. But there are only so many patterns I can test in a year…
I generally don’t fit most pattern ranges – not even plus sizing in the big 4. I don’t care for the styles offered for plus sizes that are supposed to look better on plus sizes. I like what you said, Jennifer, about plus size ladies being able to rock any style they want to rather than having to follow someone else’s ideas of the rules. While I’m not super size I’m not in the 18-22 size range either. I’d love to find a pattern system and style that fits me and the closest I’ve found is Lutterloh. After much trial and error I’ve found that adding 6.5cm or 2″ to the numbers on the outside of the pattern pieces causes the patterns to come very close to fitting me and then I can change various aspects here or there to suit my body. I love Gertie’s retro designs, but her largest size, 16, doesn’t come close to my measurements. Do I like to spend my time grading up patterns? “No.” I don’t think boycotting pattern companies would do much good in the long term. I think you should buy patterns you love and then make them work for you instead of against you. In RTW the sleeves are always miles long and the length is floor length invariably. But more than that, the shoulder seams are half way down my arms in order to find a size that fits my torso. I usually don’t alter RTW though. Sigh. The main thing I think you bring out is to be yourself and sew what you like. Support the designers that support you and write to them and tell them about it as well. Thank you so much for this post! Kathy G. from Arizona
I’d never heard of Lutterloh — thanks for sharing!
I took a look at the Lutterloh website and watched the whole intro video. This system looked GREAT. What will those Germans come up with next….except…..that I don’t go “in” at the waistline. I go “out” pretty profoundly. A most definite “Apple”. And, that system still presumes that if your bust is big, your shoulders are, too. It’s pretty darn slick and if I were classically proportioned, my money would fly from my hands. Buuuut…I’m not. Even when I was younger and wore a size 12, my waist was the widest part of me and fitting the bust/waist meant that necklines were HUGE. So, I’ll continue on doing what I do to get what I love. Be it drafting my own or altering someone else’s.
I’m “out of range” for most patterns, even the designers who make “plus sizes”. At a RTW sz 24 I don’t “fit” most patterns regardless. Even most of the plus size stuff from the “big 4” is dicey (there is one line that goes to a size 6x that always is my range, but is usually not my style). Unless it stretches it’s going to require a LOT of grading.
Knowing that I look at a pattern and decide how much I love the finished product and then grade away. PDF’s are great because they are paper and I can hack the heck out of them and make them perfect. Sometimes I get REALLY lucky and the pattern fits amazing right off the bat with very little alterations. Cake patterns, Colette patterns and EYMM patterns have been awesome right off the bat, needing very little if anything….but I always start with $2 a yard knit that I’m prepared to throw away just in case!
You’re right that finding a designer that “gets you” is the holy grail. I’ve found that Cashmerette patterns, for example, fit me right out of the envelope. Seriously, it was like the clouds parted and the angels started singing… 🙂
I don’t grade up. Why should I have to put in extra work to make a pattern that thinner people don’t have to? And I’m not going to buy from a company that doesn’t value me as a customer; there’s too much pattern competition out there for me to do that. When I saw a skirt pattern I wanted from an indie designer that would have required me to grade up several sizes, I found a vintage Vogue pattern on Etsy in my size that I could use to get the same look. If a company doesn’t want to include larger sizes in their patterns, that’s fine, but then they shouldn’t expect to get business from larger-size customers. I’m going to buy from companies that value my business.
You’re absolutely right that many patterns today can be reverse engineered using other patterns from other designers. I should remember that the next time I’m tempted to buy the next ” new thing”!
As a “pear” – and one without the larger bust that is typical of plus size gals (all butt and thighs here) — I say you’re right: we’re all over the place with body shapes and types and we just have to find what works best for us, whether it’s ready-to-wear or patterns. Boycott? No. But spend (vote with) your dollars on what’s right for you.
Would you agree that a polite way to let the designer know what about the patterns does/does not work for you would be a valuable way to engage and move the conversation forward? I agree with the “vote with your dollars” mentality, but since there is so little known about the $$ in pattern designing, I’m not sure that designers really know who’s walking away unless we tell them?
And I think this is the metaphorical iceberg. Whether RTW or pattern drafting, it’s a lot easier to draft standard patterns for smaller sizes because there’s less variation in general shape. Once we start getting into the plus sizes, the body variations become more numerous and pronounced. It can be very difficult to come up with standard designs, or even grade up the patterns to a degree that would work for all the different ways our bodies are shaped. Two plus sized women of the same height and weight can have vastly different body shapes. A design that might flatter one may not flatter the other, and vice versa.
I’m not interested in grading patterns so I buy patterns that fit me. My upper body is squarely in the regular size range and on bottom I am on the cusp of plus for Big 4 and Burda. I’m typically one size for upper body (plus FBA) then 2 sizes larger for lower body. So in Big4 I’m 14/18 and in Burda I’m 40/44. I don’t buy many Indie patterns in general but one that comes to mind for me is Named. I am on the edge up top and sized out on the bottom.
I don’t buy the patterns. I don’t want to learn to grade your pattern, even if I like it. That’s not what I want with my sewing time.
As for boycotting I think it’s … something. Wrong isn’t the right word. I think moreso, it’s a case of not being able to please all of the people all of the time. Pear shaped designers design with the pear in mind (Sewaholic, Deer and Doe). SBCC designs for the petite woman. etc. Why would I boycott Sewaholic because I’d have to make extensive changes to the bodice of a dress or to a top to get it to fit?
Would you want the average designer who has never fit/designed for a plus sized body to design for you? (I swear I’m not picking on Tasia – LOVE her brand) but I won’t go to the Sewaholic website for a tutorial on FBAs, KWIM?
It seems as if I see lots in the way of “Big4 is horrible” and “There aren’t enough Indies with extended sizing”. But “Indies” seems to be synonymous with “popular blogger turned designer”.
What about Style Arc? Fantastic designs, good pricing, instructions are lacking, but the size range is great.
What about Burda? Okay, it’s Burda, but they really do have a range of options and again, decent size range.
Hot Patterns, SBCC, Jalie…
There ARE options. I also think that as the Cashmerette line takes off we’ll hopefully see more designers jumping into plus *ONLY* patterns. And I think it’s extremely important that they do remain plus only. Time will tell if that is feasible from a business perspective.
OMG I didn’t realize I wrote a book!
I really enjoyed reading it too! And I agree100%
Me too — you make some really good points!
I’m totally with you I love hot patterns find the range of sizes terrific, I know what size to trace off. the patterns are a ‘base’ therefore the variations on any one pattern are endless. I always trace off a pattern onto tracing vilene or trace and toile anyway and tweak it on my dress form. I also use Style Arc in the same way..although they are more limited in terms of size.
I often make a toile if it’s a style that I love then I can be certain before cutting into really good fabric.
I have a couple of Dianne Ericsons patterns for vests and duster coats also for an Australian winter made in stand out fabric, or embellished they are a fabulous look for the well endowed and her patterns go to plus sizes also.
Can you really boycott something that you can’t buy anyway? Sometimes things don’t change as fast as we want them to. I don’t think that we should take it so personally when we are not catered to. People don’t like having new ideas shoved down their throat. What’s important to me is not always important to you. We should throw our money behind pattern makers that do carry our size. Money is usually the bottom line. Money gets attention. Companies follow the money. Like all social issues, change will happen. But in the meantime I think the best course of action is to support those who provide what we want.
One of my major problems with your position (which I agree with 100% in theory) is that designers don’t currently have a good idea of how big the pattern marketplace is, Therefore, they don’t know that we are “voting with our dollars” because of size versus style, quality of instructions, etc. I think there needs to be some specific method of feedback to convey that we’re voting (in part or in whole) because of the size issue.
I don’t take it personally when pattern designers/companies don’t carry plus-size patterns. Their business models/aesthetics are their own. Happily there are many companies who seem to enjoy serving us.. I find I have enough options with these companies. I want the people who design for extended sizes to do so because they want to rather than they are trying to be politically correct or are shamed into it. As there are enough companies/designers out there designing clothes for extended sizes; there is no reason to worry about those who don’t. When I see a pattern that is not in my size, I often realize that I already have a pattern with a very similar line drawing that I can duplicate it (changing sleeve style, etc.). For example, a very popular dottie angel pattern doesn’t come in my size. I looked at the line drawing and was able to easily use a Butterick pattern that I had that was similar. Drafting the contrasting bands, pockets, and ties was much easier than enlarging the dottie angel pattern (and I saved a few dollars!). I do, though, see a very real difference between Colette and Cashmerette patterns. Cashmerette makes all of its patterns in all the sizes whereas with Colette not all of the patterns come in extended sizes. When I take my time looking at patterns, I want to know that all the patterns I am looking at come in my size, whether it is a pattern company that carries all its patterns in extended sizes or one of the Big Four that has an easy-to-use plus-size tab.. This is more of a practical consideration than a political one. I never grade up patterns because I can find enough patterns that I like that fit right out of the envelope. I’m not doing this as any sort of a protest, but rather I don’t want to take the time to alter a pattern. I’m not lazy, just busy! 🙂
I have to admit that my lazy tendencies are a big reason why I am so loathe to buy patterns outside of my size range. 🙂
I would rather support Cashmerette or other up-and-coming designers continue designing patterns for plus-sizes rather than trying to get the Big 4 to change their ways.
So Jenny, please keep cranking out your lovely patterns!
Agreed — it’s so refreshing to have a pattern designer specifically working with my body type!
I’m tall as well as plus sized (when height taken into account on lower endish). I always have to make alterations to patterns. Always for height (and of course that’s not just hem length but also crotch depth and length, waist length, shoulder to bust length etc), often for hip size in comparison to bodice size, whether pattern caters for my ‘size’ or not. I understood that the majority have to do so. A pattern for ‘my size’ would only suit a minority and I don’t expect a pattern company to come up with one far less a range – though it would be nice!
I’ve recently seen a pattern designer (can’t remember who!) come out with “petite, regular, and tall” bodice options — similar to the way that some designers have different pieces for different cup sizes. I have to think that there is a market for this kind of customization!
I’ve always been ‘on the right edge of the pattern envelope’. I’m tall so always have to lengthen both sleeves and bodice, sometimes up to 4″. I’ve been athletic (now just fat) so never a skinny model beanpole. I was “plus-size” when doing triathlons. Nike tri gear was like a sausage casing when I was at my best race weight (now THERE’S a discussion on body image in a fitting room!).
As you mentioned fitting a fat body is not the same as a non-fat body. The clothes just fit differently. So sewing has been a frustration.
I learned pattern drafting but got tired of testing things out endlessly. It’s SO NICE to just make a couple adjustments and sew something up! Endless fiddling is just plain annoying.
It isn’t so much of a boycott exactly.
It depends on the ‘value’ of the pattern to me. Is it really unique with creative details? (t-shirts are everywhere)
Is the size pretty close already? (How much work am I in for??)
Do the reviews make me think that the pattern might work for me (based on what they said about adjustments, fit and quality of drafting)?
If yes/yes/yes, then I will probably buy it. And really, I’m a pattern hoarder, so I may anyway if its really cool.
Having learned pattern drafting and a bit of grading, I do understand the complexity of the sizing. A small company may just not have the resources to do TWO blocks, size both of them, and get them printed up when they are not sure if people will like the design. It has to sell. I don’t think design schools teach much large size designing, though they may be doing it more now, especially since Ashley Tipton has been successful post-Project Runway (JCPenney’s). So a new designer may not be comfortable with their skills in the plus-size area. Larger companies with more experienced designers can afford to spend the time.
Looks like my .02 became 25 cents. 🙂
So many good thoughts here. I agree that it really comes down to the “value” of the pattern to me.
I agree with Vicki – these companies are already ignoring us, so a boycott would have little effect. However, it might be worthwhile for us all to take the time to contact these companies and let them know how we feel and encourage them to draft for larger sizes.
On the other hand, the Big 4 do have a Plus Size line – and it is with few exceptions, horrific! If we decide to communicate with these pattern companies, we have to make it clear that we expect more than a rectangle with armholes and a neckline.
Personally, I use StyleArc when I don’t want to have to do any alterations. For other patterns that I like but are too small, I use Barbara Deckert’s book to help me size up to my particular dimensions.
I have my first Style Arc pattern at home, just waiting for me to take the plunge! I always find the first pattern by a designer to be the most perilous, since I don’t know what kind of alterations I’ll likely need to make…
Let’s ask Jenny what she has encounter when working with a patternmaker to design her new line of patterns. I realize that the patternmaker has to start with a different block but beyond that what else does a paternmaker have to do differently when designing for a plus size?
Jenny here 🙂 So there are different considerations when drafting for plus sizes, but it’s not like it’s some super-secret magic that no-one can learn.
The biggest thing is that you need to have really good plus size blocks – mine took over 6 months to develop, and have features like a swayback and forward shoulders – and that’s a really big expense for a company that only has a straight sized one and hence I think in the majority of cases why pattern companies don’t go up in their size range. Then, you have to do sensible grading, and you can’t just apply the normal “rules” – when I eat more cake, my shoulders don’t get wider, my arms don’t get longer, my neck doesn’t get bigger and I don’t get taller… so neither should the grading. Finally there are considerations of comfort, practicality (like no gaping, especially on larger busts) and styling (some shapes often look particularly awesome on curvy figures, others less so).
My pattern maker doesn’t find this particularly difficult, though she is plus size herself, but it does require a different mindset – plus size pattern making certainly isn’t “scale up the size 6” but I think it’s been dealt with like that in the past, which is why we have been let down!
There is no sense in boycotting designers who don’t include our sizing as they already are ignoring us! I believe there are more curvy women than those who can purchase off the rack, so I feel it’s their loss ingoring the majority of women!
I’m not sure that I agree that they are ignoring us — or at least not intentionally. But if they simply don’t know (or don’t have a way to easily find out through market research) the breadth and scope of the plus size market, I think that we might have better luck in letting them know directly that we want more inclusive sizing.
I don’t actually grade up a pattern. I use my measurements to alter the pattern instead – as per Joi Mahon’s craftsy classes. This way the pattern does fit me and my measurements and all is well.
I’m not likely to boycott those companies who do not represent my size. Regardless of what pattern company I purchase, I’m going to have to make significant changes to make it fit me. It’s just the reality of my world and always has been. Even if it’s an indie, targeted company they aren’t going to make a pattern to fit ME. So, make what you love.
I have this debate in my head all the time… I’m not really interested in doing the work to grade up a pattern, so if a pattern doesn’t come in my size, I don’t buy it. But that’s not really taking a stance, but rather just being lazy. I’m very interested to see what the CSC has to say on this subject!!
I’m not going to lie — being lazy has a HUGE amount to do with my reluctance to grade up. I’m interested in sewing a practical daily wardrobe. If I was investing a sewing a special piece (like a wedding dress) I would not only take the time to grade up my perfect design, but I’d also do the “special” finishes. But honestly, for my daily patterns, if they don’t cater even roughly to my size, I’m not going to bother.
Agree agree agree
Very frustrating
Jennifer I feel your pain. I believe the answer is in learning pattern drafting. I have been working my way through Suzy Furrer’s Pattern Drafting classes on Craftsy. She is a fantastic teacher. In theory once you have a sloper for your body you can make anything you want. You can just copy the designs of the patterns that you like but don’t come in your size. Although Suzy does not address plus size issues to my satisfaction I have learned to take her “rules” with a grain of salt. Thats the problem unless you have a ideal figure you have to find the rules that work for your individual shape. I have spend a lot of time on this but I am determined that this is the answer for making clothes that fit me well.
See? Even pattern drafting professionals don’t get into plus size “issues”.
However, I have to say that if she is teaching “drafting a pattern to fit you”. and she isn’t strong with plus size figures, that would actually irritate me a lot. Teaching drafting to the people who don’t need it because they can use the pattern envelope size??? How helpful. Not.
Well, but I would rather she speak to what she does know. Even people who fit into the pattern envelope sizing can have a lot of fit issues.
I don’t formally boycott non-extended sizes, but as a “smaller fat” (size 18 in RTW), I just don’t buy patterns that don’t fit up to my measurements. For me, it’s easier to draft my own pattern from scratch than to grade up someone else’s pattern – then I don’t have to deal with vagaries of fit and/or drafting problems.
Oh, I completely agree! I would rather just DIY something than try to make someone else’s vision fit me!