Modern pattern companies have started putting so much more time and and space into their directions. It’s so wonderful to have each step explained with corresponding blog posts, sew-a-longs, and lots of examples to peruse on Instagram. However, recently I found myself in need of an ensemble in the style of the 1910s. Between the centennial of World War One and the Women’s Suffrage Movement historical sewing has been on the rise. But where do you turn for appropriate patterns? No Cashmerette or Seamwork will do in this case!!!
Because I was dressing for accuracy and a specific year (1918), sourcing a pattern was a touch tough. People love to make the frothy pre-WWI garments, but serviceable wools and sailor collars are a little less in step with our current fashion. This meant that I ended up purchasing two patterns based on originals late 1910s patterns. For a shirt I turned to Wearing History’s Elsie Blouse which fits busts 32-48″ and for a skirt I used The Vintage Pattern Lending Library’s Ladies 1918 Two-Piece Skirt which is a one size only – 32″ waist.
Oh my goodness, can you even imagine the directions that came with 1910s patterns? Think Great British Baking Show technical challenge equivalent directions. Things like Step 1: Sew skirt. Step 2: Attach waistband. I nearly fell over in my chair. I’ve been sewing quite a long time, but I’d never seen directions so brief. And 1910s is all about tricky closures so its hard to tell where things open!
Why am I prattling on about this? Because we are capable of so much more than we give ourselves credit. Just like those bakers on television, we all have a ton of base knowledge, but with modern patterns we rarely have to use our instincts. However, faced with extremely limited directions I had to suck it up and figure it out.
If you’ve made a blouse, you can make any blouse! Collars, cuffs, etc are mostly the same and seam ripping is always an option. The Elsie Blouse collar was nearly the same as a collar from an Ottobre magazine pattern I’d made recently. Referring to similar patterns for their directions is totally a legitimate source. So are You Tube sewing videos and basic sewing pattern books. For my historical project, I’m positive I didn’t do everything ‘correctly’, but does it matter? I think not. If you are happy with the end result, why dwell on the imperfections?
So while I’m glad for modern patterns with all their support, it felt really great to trust myself and sew by intuition instead. I think you could do it too! Have you every tested your skills?
Great job on your outfit. I feel your pain. I used to make costumes for two historical house museums, 1830 and 1918. The original pattern instructions definitely assume the creator knows how to make the basic pattern and only gives instructions for anything different. I have adjusted the size of the skirt pattern so many times for so many people. I think I could make the pattern size for only one person. lol
However much I feel your pain (it takes me back to ruining a dress I made for myself for my niece’s wedding, the night before the wedding!) Im actually grateful for articles like this.
It makes me think more about the construction of a garment, why darts are where they are, or whether they’re necessary at all. I really wish we could see more articles about things that don’t work out, as at the moment most articles dedicated to sewing make it look as though every pattern, regardless of shape, style or fit, sews up beautifully and easily for everyone. That’s also why, in my humblest of opinions, hundreds of people who buy a sewing machine on the back of the Great british Sewing Bee end up selling them on after 8 months. Thank you for sharing your frustration and your frank appraisal of the pattern and fabric. To me it’s more helpful than a successful garment would’ve been. I’m only sorry that my gain was at the expense of your pain.
Something the great Louise Bryant would wear on her trip to Russia during the revolution. I love it. Remarkable job.
Your outfit is gorgeous! Those cuffs! Well done.
Folkwear Patterns has a great WWI blouse… the Armistice Blouse. It’s a gorgeous design, and goes up to a size 3X. If you ever need another one. (Those are great cuffs BTW!)
But the point of your post was to trust yourself… using the knowledge that you have, just maybe don’t know you have. Which is excellent advice! As a theatrical costumer I (usually) make my own patterns, so I have to make my own directions… but it’s the years of sewing that inform my process.
Of course, I will read through commercial instructions if the pattern is challenging… like an Issey Miyake type of challenge! I LOVE when someone forces me to turn my thought processes upside down!
I adore the Armistice Blouse! The collar is a doddle to attach, the front closure is both easy to sew and easy to fasten in wearing. Haven’t yet tried inserting a separating zip fastener down that front panel, but don’t know why you couldn’t … The style is suitable for a woman of any age, and of most any shape — you can tie the waist ties in the back, or in the front, or make them longer and wrap completely around your torso, or leave them off.
I like to pair Folkwear’s Walking Skirt with the blouse. That style was good from the 1890s-1910s. The back placket closure could be easily shifted to the side or the front, and all that is required to keep the skirt closed is one button or hook at the waist. And, with so many gores, the skirt is very amenable to sizing up or down at the waist and/or hips.
It’s absolutely stunning. You’ve done a remarkable job and I agree with you…We are Better than we Think!!
We need to trust our instincts more. I’ve often found myself staring at a pattern because of skewed/inaccurate directions instead of going with my “gut”.
Lovely post and point well made.
So Sew Beautiful. A beautiful outfit, yet perfect as separates I’d consider myself an intermediate sewer, and am only now starting to trust myself with larger pattern alterations and the such.
I’ve been watching Bernadette Banner on you-tube. She’s an amazing historical sewer, and a real joy to watch
Well done!
Beautiful results! Yes, I have done the same. In fact I rarely look st the instruction sheets. Especially with modern patterns markings on the pattern piece are usually all one needs to successfully construct a lovely garment. Once basic skills are mastered sewing a garment is pretty easy. The finesse comes with practice. 😉
Yes exactly! We can trust ourselves and our knowledge!
Nice job. Your outfit looks fantastic.
I am so admiring this blouse that you have made. The details in the photos are beautiful. I am pretty much a beginning sewist, and I just wish that the pattern came with instructions for beginners, or apparently at all! It is lovely and I hope that you are suitably proud of your accomplishment, which looks smashing on you, as well.
Rose, if you are serious about historical patterns please look up Angela Clay and Morgan Donner on YouTube. Bernadette ?? is another one to look for. All sew genuiyperiod cvloithikng and give marvellous help to those not as experienced. My own choice, 1100-1500s comes with no patterns at all, and I was dumped in at the deep end to begin with. However if you’re really keen then the above 3 channels are great. Good luck, and I find period clothing not only looks better but is more comfortable to wear as well, when done as intended. Have fun, you’ll enjoy yourself immensely.
I’ve made this pattern and it’s not difficult. I’m an intermediate sewing and actually prefer vintage patterns, as the instructions are more intuitive for most things. The Elsie blouse goes together pretty much the same as a modern blouse and it does come with directions, they are just basic, like sew shoulders and sides together, sewing facing to front, etc.
start with a mock-up and I think you’ll find it a good experience. Wearing History also has social media, a blog, and contact info so you can always email her if you get stuck. It’s a great company.
Also, I should have made this more clear, but Lauren from Wearing History does a great job of supporting her patterns and has a few You Tube videos that were super helpful as a resource for both the blouse and skirt!
Hi Rose, There are definitely historical patterns that come with more detailed directions! The patterns mentioned here just fall in a time period with fewer options. Actually historical sewing can be pretty straightforward, just longer seams on those long skirts.