Good morning! Welcome to our first of our shape-focused posts in our series of sewing for Trinny and Susannah’s 12 body shapes (see New Series: Sewing for Trinny and Susannah’s 12 body shapes and Book Review: Trinny and Susannah’s Body Shape Bible). First up are the Skittle, Pear, and Bell shapes, which I’m grouping together because many of the style suggestions overlap for these shapes. With that in mind, there are subtle differences between the shapes, and I’ll point those out in this post.
Proportions for Skittle, Pear, and Bell Shapes
With the Skittle, Pear, and Bell shapes, the focus is all on the lower body. According to Trinny and Susannah, women with these shapes have focused on their lower bodies, and dress based on how they feel about it. For example, the Skittle tends to eschew dresses and skirts in favor of pants to hide her thighs. The Bell, dismayed at her middle-aged body, cloaks herself in metres of fabric. The Pear also tends to hide under fabric. The authors note that it is easier to dress for a “problematic” lower body than very full breasts or a protuberant belly. Because we sit so much, our lower bods are more frequently unseen behind desks and tables, these three shapes can more easily create flattering proportions than certain other shapes.
Skittle, Pear, and Bell shapes
The goal for all three shapes is to draw the eye to the trim upper body and play with volume on the upper body for balance. All three are narrow shouldered in relation to the hips. All three are small busted and tend to have lean arms. Pears have heavier, chunkier legs, even through the calves, than the Skittle or Bell. Pears have a longer waist than the Skittle or Bell, while Skittles tend to have slimmer waistlines and flatter stomachs. The Bell stands out, Trinny and Susannah explain, because she is a mature woman. The Bell shape only emerges after having had children or not until peri-menopause begins. The Bell body has that stereotypical “middle-aged spread” with weight settled in the butt, hips, thighs, and lower torso. The Bell is short waisted and low-breasted.
Looking at the body types side by side, we can see the similarities and the ratios that make the shapes distinct from each other.
Skittle, Pear, and Bell, side-by-side
We can also see the similarities when we look at the tag line for each shape and the “never wear” list for them.
All of the tags focus on the size of the lower body, especially in relation to a smaller upper body. Most of the “never wear” items have some similarities in avoiding clothes that are tight or clinging through the buttocks, hips, and thighs or that truncate the calves and shorten the line of the leg. All three shapes should also avoid mini-skirts. Pears and Skittles will find that “mini” means “cuts at a wide body part,” which emphasizes the width. Minis also give that effect to Bells, but an additional issue is that “mini” generally means youthful, not mature. Given these similar concerns, we shouldn’t be surprised that the suggested “Key Shapes” share similarities as well.
Celebrity Examples
When I mentioned above there was an exception to the 3 celebrities in each shape, the Bell is the exception. They could only find 1 famous Bell to include: Hillary Clinton.
Trinny and Susannah attribute this to the media’s (and general cultural) fixation on the “young nubile variety” of women (p.162). I would add to that the way a woman has entered the public’s attention is important too. Let’s face it, there is more cultural interest in women who are famous for being actresses, models, TV or music stars, or being a “hot young thing” from a well-known, wealthy family. In general, the women we are likely to see featured in the general media are not politicians, writers, business leaders, or academics.
Style and Pattern Suggestions
Trinny and Susannah suggest vests or gilets as garments to balance the upper to the lower body. Bells especially can benefit from fuzzy vests that have a subtle V-neck and tie closure at the waist. This free pattern is a near match for the vest they suggest. The difference is it has an open back. It would effectively add interest and dimension to the upper body, and using the waist tie would add gentle shape to that area.
Balance the upper and lower body with a gilet
Pears can use a variety of vests over tops with shoulder accents, while a slim knitted vest with accents at the bust can help balance a Skittle. Pears can layer vests or shrugs with tops that end at different places on the body to draw the eye to the upper body and break up the lines at the hips and thighs.
The patterns Simplicity 3921, Vogue 9016 (views C and D), and the free Hot Patterns Shining Star vest all have features that work for Pears and can layer with tops with puff sleeves or shoulder accents.
HotPatterns Shining Star Vest, Simplicity 3921, Vogue 9016 (views C and D)
For the Simplicity pattern, think about glamorous fabrics, strong colors or prints to draw the eye up. Have a longer knit top under the Vogue or HP to create levels and keep the eye moving. See the similarities to their suggested Pears’ toppers:
Suggested pear toppers
Puff shoulders or other poufy details on sleeves are suggested for both Skittles and Pears to draw the eye up and create balance.
StyleArc Felicity blouse
The Style Arc Felicity top fits the bill for Skittles and Pears! Darts give shape for the narrow waist and upper body, and pockets are a bust detail to add volume. The horizontal seam adds width to the upper body and the short puff sleeves add width to the shoulders for balance. Open a button or two to create an arrow to the face and voila! To be honest, I like the Style Arc top better than the Skittle blouse they’ve selected. The boob bow is a bit twee for my tastes. On the right, the suggested blouse for Pears.
Skittle blouse and Pear blouse
Skittles can use interesting bust accents. Both Skittles and Pears can use open scoop or V-necklines. The mature Bell should avoid deeply opening necklines. Think subtle Vs or softly draped higher cowls with modesty panels that provide chest coverage. Bells can look to subtle ruffles at the shoulder or metallic accents at the neckline to create proportions between the upper and lower body and to draw attention to their faces.
A lovely blouse for a Bell is Hot Patterns Refined Peasant Blouse. Use a vibrant color or print or try a contrast or beaded or metallic fabric to accent the neckband and try some beading or embroidery/ decorative stitching along the neckline for drama and to draw the eye up. This gives a lovely dressy or casual caftan blouse for warm weather wear. Avoid, though, the narrow wristbands. Leave them open and give a hem finish.
HotPatterns Peasant blouse and suggested Bell blouse
All three of these shapes are well suited to shoes with shaped, sturdy heels, avoiding wedges. Thicker calves benefit from a sturdy heel to act as a foundation, while the shaped heel can help elongate the leg.
Dress shapes for all three should have fluid skirts that at least graze the bottom of the knee. The skirt should not cling or be tight in the thigh, hips, or butt. Use open necklines and collar or shoulder treatments for balance. Look for details of different types at the waist to emphasize a trim midriff. Notice the similarities of these Best Look dresses: details at the upper body, skirts with movement, and waist accents.
Skittle and Bell dresses
An option for Pears is the strapless dress, which can be worn for smart occasions with the right footwear and jacket. The dress they’ve chosen is on point with Colette’s Éclair.
An Eclair for a pear
Trinny and Susannah strongly suggest for all 3 shapes pants that close at the side, are flat-fronted, and softly drape and flow to the ankle, with dark, solid colors being preferable. Pears and Bells should avoid pockets, while Skittles should look for angled pockets that are not on the side of the leg.
Trinny and Susannah highly recommend skirts to all 3 shapes. Vertical lines are strongly suggested to keep the eye moving up and down. These body shapes are well suited to A-line skirts and to using kick pleats or godets to create movement to skim wide parts and flairs for balance. Pears can layer soft, floaty fabrics in the pleats and godets (or in the skirt in general) at different lengths to create multiple lines, again, keeping the eye moving and skimming over thicker points.
An interesting skirt option for Pears or Skittles is Cake’s Urchin pattern, made up as a light, 2-layer skirt, and light cotton short, with all three having different lengths gives that effortless, multi-level skirt they recommend. The Pear or Skittle who likes her waist and tummy area has a statement waistband with a graceful, airy skirt to skim her hips and thighs. Here’s the Pear Party Best Look for comparison.
Pear party look and Cake’s Urchin skirt
All three shapes can take advantage of skirts in sturdy fabrics too. Skittles do well with interesting vertical piecing, while kick pleats and godets are especially helpful for Bells. I’ll talk more about skirts, and tops and pants later, because many suggestions for these gals work well for Bricks, Cellos, Goblets, and Apples so hold onto to your seam rippers for more patterns and design features. All of these shapes, especially Pears, could check out Sewaholic patterns. This company drafts for a Pear shape, and they’ve recently expanded the size range for their newest releases. For more info, visit http://sewaholic.net.
Style Summary
To sum, this is a compilation of major pieces of advice for these shapes:
Key Advice for Skittles, Pears, and Bells
Like I said, I’ll have more pattern suggestions, especially for skirts and tops later, but Pears, Skittles, and Bells, remember to create length below the waist with loose, easy pants and vertical lines in skirts. Use colors and design or accessory details/ accents above the waist to draw the eye up and balance the shoulders to the hips.
Coming Soon…
My next post will talk about a body shape that is featured in basically every system, but seldom seems to get patterns or RTW garments (if they have shape codes on them) with her shape. Let’s talk BRICK.
I think it’s interesting how sure T&S are that they have a nuetral style. They seem to be saying ‘people who wear lagenlook are just hiding their bodies out of shame!’ Now admittedly one of the reasons (only ONE) I personally don’t like Lagenlook is that it was what is offered to larger women, in stores, almost exclusively (at least here) and I do NOT want to hide my body. But that’s lagenlook paired with poor quality fabric and cruddy prints, I see so many women do it well and it suits their personal style so fantastically!
Even without the ‘flattering’ being always hourglass, as thin as possible, etc etc, there’s no accounting for taste. I suppose when you’re paid to know what people ‘should’ wear you lose sight of the fact that clothes aren’t just to minimise so called ‘flaw’s but also to show personality, bring joy to the wearer, make people comfortable, and about a million other things! I know when we get to my shape (in the hourglass range, although I’m interested in their variations because I’m not a true hourglass anymore) there are going to be suggested styles that I have always felt hideous in, because they are just not my personal style. And when I look at photos of me wearing those kinds of clothes, I look awful, because I am so clearly uncomfortable and not feeling myself! Part of learning to dress myself involved finding the clothes I ‘ought’ to wear because I feel good in some of them, but I do wear a lot I ‘oughtn’t’ because… I feel good in them too! And I think that makes me LOOK good.
How many of the shapes to come are also recommended to always wear heels? I feel like that is very impractical advice, especially for a bodyshape they say is often older women. My own (youngish) back and flat feet won’t allow me to wear heels very often! A discussion of general shoe shape would be more helpful than just saying ‘wear heels’ (I am directing this at them, not you!)
Thank you for writing this series. I am looking forward to the rest, and the wrap up!
I’m a pear! I love reading about pear do’s and don’t do’s (because hello, who doesn’t like reading about themselves?). Anyway, many of the patterns on this list are ones I’d wear because I know they’d look good on me — and some are even ones on my pattern wishlist. So excellent picks here!
As for T&S’s advice, well: I read this and some other of their books a few years ago, looking for style and fitting guidance. I found their views hateful, but actually pretty useful if you could get past their dislike for 99% of all female bodies. That, and I chalked up their attitude to being British. Maybe something was lost in translation? *wink*
Ugh. I just can’t deal with the way they talk about our bodies. I’m only 34 and bell shaped, apparently, except that I have large breasts… which is not a thing according to them? And their “general advice” for Bells is (and I paraphrase) “sorry you have an ugly body. Try not to let it get you down”. Good grief. I know this info is helpful to some people and for that I am glad but their tone makes me want to barf. Also, I like my big bum (and I cannot lie) so I’m going to wear jeggings and other “no-no’s” to show it off.
Some might find it helpful to note that these body standards (what should be emphasized, what should be hidden, what we’re supposedly striving for) are very ethnocentric. There is not a cross-cultural standard of beauty.
Absolutely. This is why I wanted to not only talk about the advice, which can be helpful, but the way they talk about bodies and how they see only one shape as being attractive and having value. Any shape that isn’t naturally the one they value should strive to reach it as closely possible with everything the person wears. And as I’ll be discussing, I think they don’t think enough about different ways to create proportions and move the focus beyond using clothes to create the long, lean yet curvy, shape they esteem. And hey. There is absolutely nothing wrong with preferring that body type for oneself or finding it the most aesthetically pleasing in one’s mind. But there also isn’t anything wrong with finding the pear most attractive or any other….
And of course, what shape or what features are considered most attractive are culturally coded and connected to ethnicity or community. But a huge part of the beauty myth that texts like the BSB feed into is the premise that what is considered beautiful and valued is universal, attainable, and immutable. So if we value (for example) today a high round butt as attractive, that high round butt has always and everywhere been valued and a mark of beauty. So while we can look around and see evidence of a range of what’s coded as attractive, we still have an empire of images (to borrow Susan Bordo’s phrase) that tell us something else.
And 2 minor notes: You sound like a Cello. I for one hate jeggings. 🙂
LOL! I hatted jeggings too and then I found some that actually fit and it changed my mind. They’re not my favorite style but they do show off my ass.
A Cello, huh? I shall wait with baited breath to see what demeaning comments they have about that 🙂
I am grateful for my anthropology degree because, if nothing else, it taught me that there is very little that is “normal” for humans. Beauty, food, sexuality, religion, you name it… there are no cross cultural standards for almost anything. I’m glad you’re going to continue to discuss that aspect of it. I know you got a lot of flack in your first few posts where you tried to give context for their advice but I thought it was a good discussion.
I found the comments about the Cello more confusing than demeaning, but you may see otherwise. To paraphrase: the cello’s thighs work the bellows for Aphrodite’s orchestra. Uh, yeah. Ok then.
?!?!!
I have all KINDS of questions about that phrase! 😀
As I’ve aged my figure has changed. I was a tall pear/hourglass and am now probably a bell. I’m fine with my figure. I never could understand the suggestions to disguise my height yet many were envious – croquis are often drawn elongated. Anyway, I posted to say what I really appreciate, as a new sewer, is pattern advice. (naturally that’s also dependent on personal style) I’ve sewn some things which ‘fit’ but don’t suit. Problem with sewing your own is that you can’t try on in advance. I tried shops for similar styles but getting RTW to fit is one of the reasons I started sewing. I
I have a good friend who is very tall. And she did grow up with comments that she should try to hide it as best she could. To some extent, I did as well, but at 5’6.5-5’7″, I’m not that tall by height standards for women. We’ve talked about the suggestions we both got growing up– “Hide your height, but not by slouching! Slouching is ugly and will make you look fat!” Uh… unless one is willing to adopt a crazy weird painful bent leg walk posture, there is no way to look shorter without slouching. The “hide your height” suggestion is one that is so weird to me. Why? the fashion industry. The fashion industry is often touted as the source for what it is considered desirable for female bodies’ attractiveness. So this is an industry that loves a tall woman, often placing a model in any size range but petite that in under 5’9″ as “short.” And yeah, because tall, long,and lean are considered ideal it isn’t surprising that stylists and illustrators would stretch templates.
beyond all that, I have many patterns to present and discuss in this series! I hope you find a few you like!
I feel like crying right now. I’m 30 and I’ve had 1 kid and I’m somewhere between a pear and a bell. I’ve got narrow, sloping shoulders, a short, concave chest, and a large lower belly hips and bottom. Seriously? You don’t have to be old to have a big belly. And I refuse to be stuck wearing tone on tone neutrals.
Word.
When we hit the sections on Cello and Goblet, there are some really fun plays on tone-on-tone looks with texture and print. But then when authors suck the fun out playing with clothes by telling us that it is incumbent on women to always, with every garment, create a single shape that they privilege, then yeah. Suggestion like dark bottoms, single tone outfits, and modesty panels come across as sad and limiting. Why not frame the dark bottoms as the base for a vibrant print or a saturated color? Why not think about tone-on-tone as a play to experiment with texture or even a pop contrast? How about thinking about modesty panels as a way to experiment with multiple prints, contrast colors, and textures? I will exploring some of this at varied parts in the series because that’s how I see some of these ideas, but they can’t because they see clothes as a way to create as closely as possible a singular shape they prefer because happiness and confidence, to them, come from a woman knowing she has covered her problem areas as best she can and is showing off what she likes. I see a woman’s confidence coming from believing she has integrity, is intelligent, kind, generous, and has varied interests.
While I see what they’re getting at, it’s all a wee bit dull! Eg the thing about “solid, dark colours” being preferable for trousers. Come off it – get a crazy enough print and people will only notice the print, not the leg 🙂 Also: avoid pockets?! Where am I going to put my stuff then? As a pear I do agree that we have it easier than some other shapes – I guess mainly because our “problem” areas are away from the face, which is where people will tend to automatically look. While I’m more than happy to obey the command not to wear stilettos, I must say I’ve never felt particularly self-conscious in a swimsuit, despite saddlebags and gi-massive thighs and I think this is because I usually wear a swimsuit at times and places when and where swimsuits are suitable – ie at the beach and in the pool. When it comes to feeling and looking good, dressing to flatter your shape is only part of it – I’d suggest that physical comfort and wearing what you feel is suitable for what you’re doing are also key. Of course as sewists we can combine all three – hooray!
I prefer dark pants to light colored ones because I just feel strange in light pants, usually. I don’t know it relates to fear over cyclical issues (get it?) or because I feel bigger or what. It might relate to how I wasn’t allowed to wear light colored pants growing up. As far as prints on pants, I’m cautious for a few reasons. Plaids make me feel huge. But for other crazy prints, I’d be obsessed with placement of features. No big flowers on my butt crack. I saw someone post a pant she made during the celestial print fad, and the horsehead nebula was centered on her crotch. And I recently a woman walking around at a store in some kind of leggings in a paisley. I have no idea if she made or bought them, but the paisley swirls met in such way at her crotch that a curved V was front and center.
And yeah. One of my comments/criticisms of some of their suggestions is that they can boring, limiting, and impractical.
Yes, I do get the cyclical problem 🙂 Also agree with you about plaids – but I do own a pair of RTW trousers which have a black background with massive daisy-type flowers on them and I think they’re great even though they do look a bit pyjama-ish. There’s been no attempt at pattern-matching, so the seams cut through the flowers and just look like seams, if you see what I mean – I think it’s OK, anyway. Thanks for the review – I think it’s great to think about and discuss this stuff even if ultimately we reject some or all of the advice.
May I contribute an observation that used to be made frequently but I haven’t seen in awhile? If your shoulders are narrow, raglan sleeves and any style that has lines that move outward and downward make them seem even narrower and the hips wider. I think the Hot Patterns peasant blouse is an example of this–look at the line drawing and sketch and you’ll see what I mean. A well-fitted set-in sleeve is a better look. I’ve also always been puzzled at why people say that a-line and flared skirts are more flattering for people who don’t want to draw attention to their legs, since that’s precisely where their lines draw the eye. It’s true that a straight skirt that is tight doesn’t flatter, if only because of the horizontal stress lines at the hip, but a nicely fitted straight skirt should work just fine. IMHO.
I guess it may depend where on your leg you do and don’t want to draw the eye to? Eg I would not be keen to draw the eye to my mid thigh but I’m happy to draw it to just above the knee…? I think you’re right about straight skirts – maybe that piece of advice is because it’s pretty much impossible as a pear to get a RTW straight skirt that fits at the waist and isn’t tight over the hips.
I am so excited that you shared some patterns that address these shapes. I especially love the fur scarf because I have a fur vest whose fit I have never been happy with. I will definitely be printing this pattern to see if I can rescue my fabric and use it this way!
I’m the opposite so what this group wears is EXACTLY what I shouldn’t which to be honest I already knew 🙂 but I completely agree with the “Key Advice” – I’ve often envied my pear gfs!
I’m a skittle. I’m 5’3′, 46″, 46″ and 53″, For the moment I have to stick to custom measurement patterns or clothing because on commercial patterns my measurements are over three sizes.
Maybe I am being too sensitive, but as a middle aged Bell, I resent being told that I should cover up my aging skin and wear modesty panels. God forbid someone should have to look at my middle aged cleavage! The implicit message to Bells is that we are too old to be sexual and we should just try to accept the fact that no one wants to see any of our secondary sexual characteristics anymore – pack’em up Grandma!
And that’s part of the bigger criticism I’ll be doing in the end. They too often slide into demoralizing, shaming language that just increases the stereotyping of women’s bodies and the commodification of female sexuality that only grants sexiness to some women– in this book, that is young, lean yet curvy women. I don’t know if you’ve seen the earlier posts and comments, but I’ve also gotten crap for trying to engage the way they talk about bodies as well.
The subject of What To/What Not To Wear? Tedious. Tired. Been there. Done that. Ignored Rules. (After all, evahbody pulls on their knickers the same way ) I’m appalled that two blithering twits reworked Mary Duffy’s H.O.A.X. method, then claimed the resultant mess as their invention. But, funny thing. Miz Duffy’s still going strong. Twits? Say whut? Miz Duffy never insulted her clients, audiences or readers. In turn, we regularly pull out her advice on plus-dressing and her 80s business philosophy for its perpetually fresh outlook. Miz Duffy and other fashion icons cheered, and continue to cheer our efforts. The sole focus of women’s apparel, be it RTW, made-to-measure, me-made or shamelessly hacked (Bless Y’awl for your adventurous spirit!)? Well-made, well-fitted garments. Achieve that and the rest is window dressing. In some cases, positive energy will elicit spiteful backbiting. (Crow anyone?) In others, vigorous appreciation, cheers, admiration and pleading requests for the ‘secret’. Easy: Part I: Living well is the best revenge. Part II: Being the center of attention-admiration-longing? A very close, ego-gratifying second. Everything else? Refer to Part I.
Well gosh I probably fit as a bell (I think) and I’m only in my 30s. Seems early in my life to wear flowy tops and cover my chest. I’d just end up getting asked if I’m pregnant all the time.
Anyways everything else is what I’ve figure out through trial and error through the years, but good to see my suspicions are on the right track.
Like your style. Pack it UP? Such a waste. Flaunt it instead–tons of women secretly wish they were equally blessed. Strappy tops? Go for it! Slinky cowl tops-tunics with preferred sleeve length? Work ‘it! Modesty panels? See Flaunt It! Whatever makes you feel fetching, fabulous, deliciously female. Age, like those irritating 3 numbers on the bathroom floor? Merely numbers. I’ve seen a few former 80s models and film stars sans HD cosmetics and photoshopping; they’re no dewy 16 year olds. (Heck, even dewy 16 year olds are envious of blank-faced 12-13 year olds.) Last episode spotlighted Hillary Clinton as a Bell, then declared that a ghastly gray wool suit was appropriate for her shape. Too bad The Terrible Twosome either never saw, or chose to ignore, her va-va-voom leopard print chiffon gown: strapless fitted bodice, sweeping skirt and trailing matching wrap. Image made news because HRC flaunted her assets vs. hiding them. And looked H.O.T.! If HRC can slither thru a high roller bash working an exotic feline vibe, then the rest of us can too. Feeling good leads to looking good leads to 2nd 3rd 4th takes leads to everyone wanting to know your secret. I’m good!
There are some gems in here for sure! But beware of sliding too much into the authors’ voices when you are writing from your point of view. As you pointed out, I don’t like the negative ways they have of talking about body shapes!
It is a really tough balancing act. On the one hand, I want to give criticism, but I don’t want every post to be a lightening rod for comments like “you’re taking this seriously” or “why not just give the advice?” so I’m trying to hold some of my comments for the wrap up critique and parcel out some of the other comments in smaller doses.
I think it would be worth noting, a couple times in each article, that this is THEIR advice and not necessarily yours, or ‘objective’ advice in any way. Especially after ‘shoulds’.
I know you have been very clear about that already, but this is a fraught topic! Maybe better to remind people a few times that this is very optional advice. (I think you hit a really good balance with this in the Brick article, btw. And of course, I couldn’t do it any better so please feel free to ignore me!)
Love love love these kinds of “advice” articles. Can you hear my applause? Most of us are aware of our shapes (oops, I almost said figure flaws) but aren’t always certain about the best style choices. Of course I’m not any one of these three – – -when are you going to offer advice for a big busted apple.
There’s one on apples scheduled and the goblet (bustiest shape they have) is with the cello.
Eagerly waiting for your post on Cello’s and hourglasses!
Ahem… This ‘Belle’ will mos def be busting out the bias skirt and blouse with fabulous sleeves and a wide portrait neckline ASAP. ;^) Never Say Never.
Right? I’m a bell, and they can pry my pencil skirts out of my cold, dead hands.
I am loving these new posts! So much good information. Thanks!