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Sewing for My Curves: Tanya

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Hello, readers!  I’m happy to share the next installment in the “Sewing for My Curves” series.

My Figure

I’m not entirely certain how to fully describe my shape.  According to the figure calculators I am a “pear” and sometimes a “spoon”.  I kind of look a little bit like “Madam Peanut” as well.  My shoulders are broad, I have an average bust size, broader back, full biceps, high waist, full tummy, full flat butt, wide hips, thick thighs, muscular calves, slimmer ankles and big feet.

My measurements:

  • Height:  5’8
  • Bra Size:  44D
  • Bust:  48″
  • Waist:  41″
  • Hip:  52″

I wear anything from a 20 to 24 in RTW.  I rarely buy clothing anymore, but if I do, I try on multiple sizes.  My preference would be to purchase online, as most sites I shop from have size charts and I can compare my measurements to that of the designer.  In sewing patterns, my size varies with the pattern company, as I can be between a size 20 and a 28 on different size charts.

My Adjustments

  • I generally start with the largest size available, unless I am lucky enough to have a pattern that comes in my size.  The patterns I use most often are not in my size, so I grade them up using a few methods depending on the pattern design, pattern size, or how I feel like grading it up that day.  With multi-size patterns I usually do an easy increment or ruler resizing; with one size vintage patterns, I tend to do a slash/spread grading and sometimes shift grading if it’s a simple pattern.
  • It would be quite rare if I fit into a pattern company’s size mold, so I usually grade between sizes, with a smaller size on my bust grading up to a size or two more on my hip area.
  • I have a high waist, so I sometimes shorten the bodice on my dresses to raise the waistline.  Sometimes I like the lower waist.  Quite frankly it depends upon how I feel about the pattern.
  • My back side inverts a bit, so I do a swayback adjustment to my back bodice piece(s) which gets rid of the back wrinkle above my bum and allows my zippers to lay flat on my back.
  • In sleeved garments, my arms very rarely fit into them, so I adjust the sleeves to fit my thick arms by widening the bicep area, usually by cutting and spreading the pattern piece.  I often need to adjust the armscye and the sleeve length if the pattern is long-sleeved.
  • I’m generally taller than the figure that pattern companies design for, so I nearly always lengthen skirts, usually at the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern.  My preference is for skirts to be at or below knee-length, so this is a common adjustment for me and I always check the skirt length before I cut my fabric out.
  • I rarely wear and seldom sew pants/jeans, but when I do, I have to make quite a few adjustments in the waist/hip area to fit my high waist, full tummy and broad hips.  Those adjustments are generally mandatory for me if I’m sewing fitted garments like pencil skirts.  For leggings, as they are meant to fit close to the leg, I taper the fit down to my slimmer ankles.

My Patterns

Most often you will find me wearing a dress, as it’s basically my everyday uniform.  I wouldn’t say that I always choose dresses that fully compliment my shape, but I wear what I’m comfortable with and what makes me feel good.  I prefer a fitted bodice, waist definition, and a fuller skirt that skims over my belly.  I prefer gathered skirts, but also wear full/half circle and flared skirts.  Gathered skirts can make my middle area look more pronounced, but I care more about what makes me happy than what makes me appear smaller.

Fitted Bodices and Fuller Skirts

My favorite silhouette these days are what a lot of people refer to as “fit and flare” dresses.  I like sewing and wearing a lot of busy prints, so I usually sport belts that offer a contrast, break up the print and give me added waist definition.

Peasant Dresses

Last summer I was all about sewing peasant dresses.  I love the sleeves and the ruffles and the longer skirts.  So flowy and comfy, but they take a lot of fabric and gathering the ruffles gets to be monotonous.  They are perfect dresses for warm weather and although I haven’t made one this year, I wear these dresses all the time when it heats up outside.  I actually have one on now!

Shirt Dresses

I do love a classic shirtwaist dress.  I’m especially fond of wearing them when the weather turns cooler and sporting cardigans with them.  Buttons!  Collars!  Yokes!  Oh my!  I tend to prefer sleeveless shirt dresses as I like layering them, but I have some 3/4 and long-sleeved ones on my sewing list for fall/winter.

So that’s me!

Yeah, I’m all about the dresses…..

Comments

  1. What great dresses you make! Can you explain (or post a link) to this “swayback” adjustment you make for flat butts? I think I need to master that one…

  2. I love you post the modifications you usually make to your patterns so they fit your body. I love your to go styles.

  3. I’m not really in to body shapes and types to much. I was taught to focus on the fit. I have four sister and we are all different and whatever my mother sewed always looked good on them. Everything you sew ALWAYS looks good on you. Your tips have helped my tremendously in my return to sewing and I thank you for that. I can’t wait to see what you will come up with next.

  4. My issue is: I have changed shape. I was more a couple of boxes stacked on each other, now I seem to be one box on two legs. I am trying new shapes, and thinking about a whole new sillouette for myself. I’ve never made a croquis before, but have worked one out from photos on my computer and am drawing shapes over it. And from there, I’ll get to patterns.

    I still have trouble with what I like VS what I enjoy sewing VS what works for me now. The transition in my brain is a hard one.

  5. You really make some gorgeous dresses. And you really know how to fit yourself. I admire your skills!

  6. Thank you for sharing how you adjust your patterns. I am new to this and it helps to know how others do it for a great fit. You have found your secret to a great look – your “makes” are always so spot on for you!! I always look forward to seeing your next creation.

  8. You always looks so pretty in your dresses! It’s great that you have figured out what works for you and developed own your personal style:)

  9. I so admire you Tanya. You are clearly in tune with your body shape and figure challenges. You know what works for you — beautiful dresses. That’s a great place to be in the sewing world.

  10. kajero • a few seconds ago

    Tanya, I would love to pin your dresses on my (please click on Pearables Pinterest Board) PEARABLES PINTEREST BOARD.
    In addition to your beautifully sewn gorgeous documents being shown, the pinned garments also link back to your website so you get increased traffic.
    Please let me know. It doesn’t matter how others view your shape. If you think you can help people decide if a garment will look good on a pear shape, then it would be wonderful to pin your garments to the board!

      • WOW . .  a “pin it” button.  That is going to save me hours of time!Thanks,Kathy From: Disqus
        To: katr52@yahoo.com
        Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2015 1:05 PM
        Subject: Re: Comment on Sewing for My Curves: Tanya

        #yiv6514008882 #yiv6514008882 a:hover, #yiv6514008882 a:hover span {color:#1188d2!important;}#yiv6514008882 .yiv6514008882button-cta:hover {color:#ffffff!important;background-color:#1188d2!important;}#yiv6514008882 .yiv6514008882button-cta:hover span {color:#ffffff!important;}#yiv6514008882 #yiv6514008882 #yiv6514008882 #yiv6514008882outlook a {padding:0;}#yiv6514008882 body {width:100% !important;}#yiv6514008882 .yiv6514008882ReadMsgBody {width:100%;}#yiv6514008882 .yiv6514008882ExternalClass {width:100%;display:block;}#yiv6514008882 @media screen and ( _filtered_a ){#yiv6514008882 html {}#yiv6514008882 .yiv6514008882content {width:100%;}#yiv6514008882 table {border-collapse:collapse;}#yiv6514008882 h2.yiv6514008882headline {font-weight:700;font-size:20px!important;margin-bottom:5px;}#yiv6514008882 .yiv6514008882button-cta {display:block!important;padding:0!important;}#yiv6514008882 div.yiv6514008882header {padding-top:20px;}#yiv6514008882 div.yiv6514008882footer {padding-bottom:20px;}}#yiv6514008882 #yiv6514008882 p.yiv6514008882mod-tools a:hover {color:white!important;background:#8c989f!important;}#yiv6514008882 @media screen and ( _filtered_a ){#yiv6514008882 td.yiv6514008882avatar, #yiv6514008882 td.yiv6514008882spacer {width:38px!important;}#yiv6514008882 td.yiv6514008882avatar img, #yiv6514008882 td.yiv6514008882spacer img {width:28px!important;}}”Of course you pin photos from our site. If you hover over a photo you’ll see a pinterest “pin it” button.” | |
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        tanyamaile
        Of course you pin photos from our site. If you hover over a photo you’ll see a pinterest “pin it” button. 2:05 p.m., Thursday Aug. 20 | Other comments by tanyamaile |   |
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        | tanyamaile’s comment is in reply to kajero: |
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        | | kajero • a few seconds agoTanya, I would love to pin your dresses on my (please click on Pearables Pinterest Board) PEARABLES PINTEREST BOARD. In …Read more |

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  11. kajero • a few seconds ago
    Tanya . . . .I love your dresses. Although I am not curvy on top .. . my waist and hips . . . well are VERY curvy. I would like your permission to pin your dresses up on my Please click on: PEARABLES PINTEREST BOARD. The pins link back to your website so in addition to getting more sewists to see your gorgeous sewing, the pinned garment also increases traffic to your website. I am behind on the pinnings but am working on catching up. Summer and my grandsons kind of got in the way.

  12. Love all your dresses! You seem to have the perfect shape for full skirts. I would love to wear them, but I’m more of a rectangle shape so not sure how they would look. I especially like your peasant dresses with the ruffles on the bottom, and the green shirtdress. ?

  13. Thanks for sharing your dress choices. I’m a spoon shape myself (but with narrower shoulders and a longer waist) and I agree that the fit and flare dresses appear to be some of the most flattering on our figure type.

    • They certainly are! I tend to think they look good on most everyone, but to me, it depends how happy you are wearing them and how they make you feel that matters most.

  14. Your body shape is a little different from mine, but I recognise the areas you mention that need adjustment. I’m still new to changing or grading up patterns. It’s complicated!

    • Yes, altering patterns can be a huge headache! It gets to be second nature the more you do it though and you can look at line drawings and figure out what needs to be done and it can get a lot easier!

      • Yes, I find that the clothes I make now fit way better already than my first makes. I do like the challenge, it’s just so time consuming sometimes! I read your blog all the time and your outfits are great inspiration, thank you for sharing!

  15. Your belt collection is great! Where do you find them? I love your makes, and you’ve inspired me to grade up some dress patterns. I’m half way through my first ESP dress as we speak. Thank you!

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