Good afternoon, friends! Today’s post is the third installment in the “Sewing for My Curves” series.
My Figure
Depending on the day, I’m either a plus-size hourglass or a busty pear shape. The one truth about my figure is that my hip measurements are extremely variable. Everything from hormones to pie consumption levels to Saturn’s location in the sky can change that measurement in a range of four to five inches. However, generally, I have a very narrow waist and rib cage, ample bosom, narrow shoulders, plump upper arms, thick thighs, and extravagant hips.
Measurements
- High Bust: 41″
- Full Bust: 46″
- Waist: 36″
- Hips: 46″, at my usual size, but up to 50″
- Bra Size: 36E
- Height: 5’8″
In ready-to-wear, I wear a size 16W in bottoms and XL in most tops. At this point in my sewing career, I only buy jeans, sweaters, and lingerie from clothing retailers. The brands I fit into best are Loft and Talbots, which both have “curvy fit” options that accommodate a narrow waist and full hips.
Adjustments
Typically, I start with a size 20 in Big 4 patterns and a 16/18 in indie patterns. However, I pay very close attention to the body type a designer targets. If they use a straighter fit models, like Grainline or Colette seem to, I measure the pattern itself and heavily blend sizes.
- FBA Every. Single. Time. My shoulders and rib cage tend to be much, much narrower than what designers envision for a bustier lady, so even with cup-sized patterns, some bust adjustments are required. As such, I have become a master at FBAs, dart rotations, and splitting darts. I love the geometry of it! However, I do actively avoid princess seamed patterns, unless they come with cup sizes, because adding 6+ inches to curvy seams requires patience I do not possess.
- Reducing armhole gape. Even when choosing sizes based on my high bust measurement, I often end up with extra roomy, too low armscyes. A little dart rotation and redrawing of the curve fixes this nicely.
- Narrow Shoulder Adjustment. Again, those shoulders of mine drive me crazy. Rare is the pattern that doesn’t need 1/2″ or more removed at the shoulder. Luckily, this is a quick adjustment to make. I could choose patterns entirely based on shoulder width, but getting back up to the correct bust size would be an adventure. Choosing based on high bust provides a happy medium, in my opinion. I firmly believe that you can get to a good fit via several different avenues.
- Lengthening patterns. Most patterns are drafted for women several inches shorter than my 5’8″, so I usually add a few inches to hems and lengthen bodices a bit.
- Curving darts. My single most difficult fit battle is fitting my rib cage properly. The area between my bust and waist is always a bit blousy, even in styles meant to be fitted. Curving darts slightly outward, taking in more fabric over this area, gives a better fit.
- Wide Hip Adjustment. I usually blend up a size on the pattern or take an adjustment for wider hips, to account for the variation I see there. I want a garment to fit me all month long, after all, not just two weeks at a time. This is one of the reasons I don’t sew pants often, because it’s much harder to account for measurement variability in those garments.
- Full Bicep Adjustment. My upper arms are beefy and I’ve come to peace with that. As such, I typically add an inch or more to sleeves with every pattern I make. There’s a reason I love sleeveless dresses paired with knit cardigans, friends!
My Patterns
Fit-and-Flare Dresses
As you might expect from my body shape, I’m most comfortable in fit-and-flare dresses. A fitted bodice and full skirt highlight everything I love about my body–my bust and waist, specifically–but leave parts I’m less comfortable with to the imagination. Necklines are a strong point of variation, as I like everything from bateau to plunging V-necks. Some favorites include Simplicity 1873, which I’ve hacked a dozen different ways, Butterick 5982, and BlueGingerDoll’s Odette Dress (oop). 
Altered Simplicity 1873, Simplicity 1873, BGD Odette Dress, Altered Simplicity 1873
Shirt Dresses
A variance of the fit-and-flare theme, I am infamously obsessed with shirt dresses. To me, these are the perfect dresses–full pleated skirts to accommodate my ever-changing hips, a belted waistband to cinch in at my narrowest point, and a high collar to frame my face. Bodice fitting has to be spot-on, but I’ve found an altered version of McCall’s 6696 is my tried-and-true pattern. Bonus! It comes with cup sizes, so the FBA is less intense than usual. This pattern is the true workhorse of my wardrobe, on constant rotation in different fabrics.
McCall’s 6696, McCall’s 6696, Altered McCall’s 6696
Circle Skirts
When I do wear separates, I like to keep the same fit-and-flare silhouette happening. To that end, I’m a huge fan of circle skirts, both the self-drafted classics and designs that embellish the standard. Two recent favorites are Jennifer Lauren’s Cressida Skirt and the Asymmetrical Pleated Skirt from Knipmode October 2015, which are variations on the half circle skirt.
Three-Quarter Circle Skirt, Jennifer Lauren Cressida Skirt, Knipmode Asymmetrical Skirt
Tunic Tops
For a large portion of my younger years, I only wore dresses, because they made me most at ease with my curves. However, my late twenties taught me to love the casual look of jeans, as well. My key to feeling comfortable in jeans is the combination of a pretty, flowing tunic top and skinny jeans. I like the modern silhouette this creates and the novelty of showing off my legs, instead of my waist. Once again, my hips are not on display, but I’m also not hiding in fabric. For these tops, I consistently come back to Butterick 5997, with its interesting tucked front, and the charming yoked design of Kate & Rose’s Zsalya blouse.
Butterick 5997, Butterick 5997, Kate and Rose Zsalya
Knit Dresses
Finally, we come to my most recent love affair…knits! Like jeans, I avoided knits for most of my twenties, fearing that they would cling to every curve. This fear was completely unjustified and, as I became more at ease with my body, I also became more at ease with stretch fabrics. I still love a fit-and-flare shape, like Colette’s Moneta Dress and Blue Ginger Doll’s Violet Dress (oop), but I’ve also adopted more form-fitting silhouettes. My two most-sewn patterns of last year were Cashmerette’s Appleton, that gorgeous, body-skimming wrap dress, and the draped beauty of the Colette Myrtle Dress. These patterns still show off my waist well, but also play up my other curves in a grown-up, modern way.
Colette Moneta Dress, Colette Myrtle Dress, Cashmerette Appleton Dress, Blue Ginger Doll Violet Dress
So, that’s me! I’d love to hear about your preferences, however. What silhouettes do you reach for, when dressing your curves? Do you have any tried-and-true patterns that you return to over and over again, like I do?
Enjoyed seeing your “collection” Looks like you know how to deal with your body — both the fit part and the fabric/style choices. It all comes together very well. It takes a lot of “fiddling” to get pattern alterations just right, but well worth it in the end. Thanks for sharing.
Love this post. You have a similar shape to my own, although I am a size or 2 bigger in RTW. I am about to make the Cashmerette Appleton. I love the Colette Moneta, so easy and so versatile. Thank you so much for your post. It has given me some other ideas for patterns to try.
I was so disappointed to see that BGD is offline and her patterns are no longer easily found 🙁 But happily Craftsy still has them: http://www.craftsy.com/user/640943/pattern-store?_ct=fqjjuhd-ijehu&_ctp=111900,640943
You look so good in all of these outfits! I’m jealous of your smartly fitted clothes. I might have a waist when I stand up,but as soon as I sit the fat thighs push the apron up and into the boobs. Almost a 10 inch waist/hip difference from standing to sitting. Any suggestions on styles to deal with this problem? A nice looking/fitting waistline when standing will either ride up or split when the measurements shift. Am tired of mu-mus in an attempt to get wearing ease.
maybe try a shirred panel at the back of your bodice, to give more width when sitting but also allow it to be fitted when standing?
I loved your list of standard alterations. It makes learning to fit less overwhelming to know other women make these adjustments routinely. I admit to being scared to even start on a pattern sometimes. It is my darn need to be perfect first time, every time.
Maggie, I’m so glad you found this post helpful! As one perfectionist to another, I can absolutely relate to that pattern fear. This is why I keep a giant bolt of muslin around. A practice version of a pattern goes a long way toward assuaging those nerves! Good luck on your fitting work! You are definitely in good company, with needing adjustments. I haven’t met an accomplished sewist yet who doesn’t have a list just like ours!
Hi Mary, love reading your blog posts, this is no exception. I find your journey along the road of body acceptance very refreshing. People should know its not about the measurements, but very much about coming to peace with your own shapes.
Your pictures always look terrific, even if you know there are flaws. I’m in awe of your FBA skills mate!
Oh! Thank you so much, Lesley! Body acceptance is something that I’ve had to work on, so it’s a relief to know that it consistently comes across in my posts. When I first began sewing again, letting go of measurements was the hardest part.
i just know that now i want “extravagant hips.” I LOVE THAT.
Ha! Thanks, lady!
You look great in everything you sew. I too love Talbots, when I need a nice jacket and don’t want to sew it, that’s were I shop. It was nice of you share the sewing side of you. I do love your your sewing style!
Thank you, Sabrina! Talbots is the only place I still buy jackets, actually. They are always so well-made and beautiful.
The Blue Ginger Doll patterns are still available over at Craftsy.
Thank you for the tip, Jo! I’ll hunt them down over there.
I love your style! My dearest friend growing up had (and still has) a glorious figure like yours. I was always so jealous of her full curves and tiny waist. As a teen I was all tall and gangly, not a curve in sight. Now, in my early 30s, my body has settled into a high hipped, short torsoed rectangle-ish shape. (5’9″, 42 full bust, 35.5 waist, 43.5 hip) I love a fit and flare silhouette, too, but I have to pair those sorts of dresses with a wide stretchy belt to create more visual balance. Recently, I’ve become addicted to lightweight / sheer flowy shirts / tunics and pencil skirts / skinny jeans. My TNT pattern is McCalls 3830, which is a pencil skirt – I blended down a size, starting at the hips, and it fits perfectly. I’ve made a bunch of skirts from it in the last 13 years.
Thank you so much, Kristin. It’s funny, your style and shape sound a lot like my best friend’s. She can pull off that same tunic & pencil skirt combination, which looks killer on her! McCall’s 3830 looks like such a great pattern, as well. What a classic silhouette! Thank you for sharing! 😀
Thank you so much for this really helpful and inspiring post.
Re: this section: Reducing armhole gape. Even when choosing sizes based on my high bust measurement, I often end up with extra roomy, too low armscyes. A little dart rotation and redrawing of the curve fixes this nicely.
I’m so glad to read this. I suspect I have even narrower shoulders than you proportionately, plus shorter plus a 7″ difference between high and full bust. Once I got my head around a range of FBAs (years of practice and still learning), and I now have the basics on narrow shoulders, now I’m working on armscyes, and have much to learn.
Can you please direct me to anything you have shared previously or read elsewhere which would help me visualise the dart rotation and redrawing of curves please? I’d be very grateful.
I’m so glad you found this post helpful, Sandra! There’s a really great tutorial that shows that process, here: http://inhousepatterns.com/blogs/news/5962007-fitting-and-pattern-correction-armhole
Those are exactly the steps I take, when altering an armscye.
Thanks Mary. This is going to be really useful, and I’ll be putting it into practice for sure.
The discovery of full bust and full bicep adjustments were sewing game changers for me. I have very similar fit issues, being the same height as you, but slightly more busty pear (smaller torso, larger cup size, larger hips). I have the fit-and-flare love. Now I think I need to investigate some of the flowy tunics you listed.
Amen, Beckerella! The quality of my sewing (and how likely I was to wear home-sewn garments) sky rocketed, once I perfected those two adjustments. It’s remarkable how a well fitting sleeve or bodice can change the whole look of a garment. I stopped buying RTW dresses, when I started taking those adjustments.
Also, definitely check out those tunics. They are on heavy rotation in my wardrobe! Though, beware the sleeves of B5997–as drafted, they are decidedly pirate-like.
Wonderful post! You’ve figured out what styles you’re comfy in, and those that flatter your figure!
Thank you, Yvette!
Great post! I think we are almost twins! Our shape is very similar except I have ALOT more hip. I also have the same adjustment for EVERY pattern. FBA, small shoulder adjustment, lengthen a little, enlarge sleeve bicep. Keep up the great sewing, a few dresses caught my eye. See me @ sewplus.blogspot.com
High five, Bonnie! I can’t wait to check out your blog and see how you dress your similar silhouette.
I think you sum up just about everything I feel about sewing for my own shape. I still haven’t embraced pants though. Too many tears in the dressing room and so much discomfort.
Super stretchy denim and ordering online are the only things that have me embracing pants, Jessica! I’ve had too many dressing room anxiety attacks, searching for the perfect pair. Most of my jeans now have a really high elastic content, making them feel more like leggings than jeans. We will not mention how tempted I was by those horrid Pajama Jeans, a few years back… *shudder*
Thanks for he excellent post. Did you have to make many alterations to the Collette patterns. Those dresses are my favourites from your post. You look gorgeous!
Thank you, Halena! For Colette Patterns, I always do an FBA–even on the knits–and lengthen both the bodice and the skirt. For the Myrtle Dress, which is one of my favorites, I also needed a Narrow Shoulder Adjustment.
Thanks for the advice. I love read this blog 🙂
Like Gillian I am finding it super interesting that we are about the same size (my waist is an inch or so bigger and hips an inch or so smaller) but I am six foot tall also, with big shoulders. It’s increasingly clear that the main measurements are only the start, with torso length, shoulder adjustments etc the key to real fit! Loving this series 🙂
I’m a few inches taller than Mary and around a size 14 Misses, but with similar ratios through bust-waist-hips. And you’re right, there are so many variations possible even for women of similar size and proportion. I’m still new enough to sewing that I have difficulty managing the number of alterations I would need for an ideal fit. Like you, I have broad shoulders. And I’ve noticed my figure type often ends up looking visually very different even from women who have the same ratios and similar height/measurements. I’m guessing it has something to do with overall bone structure and body composition, but it’s still difficult to articulate to myself how women who seem as if they would be close in size or silhouette based on measurements can look so different and even find clothing fitting them so differently.
The variety of shapes, within sizes, is absolutely fascinating. I’m now wondering if we should also include measurements like shoulder width and torso length, as well. You’re absolutely right–bone structure and body distribution play such a big part in overall silhouette.
Its hard isn’t it – too many measurements can be so daunting for everyone – particularly with the idea that you make one change, test the fit, make another change, test the fit again…we would all spend all our time making muslins and none making wearable clothes!!! It would certainly help people like me who are just overall large frame and often need additional adjustments beyond the FBA to have additional measurements like shoulder width also. I assume it would also help large chested but small framed women who end up swamped in larger sizes even though the usual logic would have them make certain adjustments?
It’s kind of wonderful how illuminating it is to delve into fit. The more I do, the more I notice how terribly ready-to-wear fits on a lot of people (including me!). I have been sewing for quite a while now, but have only really invested in trying properly to fit many different patterns to me recently – it’s totally worth it when you have something which feels so great, but it’s a long (and very interesting!) journey 🙂
No matter how I stare at you, I cannot wrap my head around you wearing a 36E when i wear a 36FF. My full-bust is 42, my underbust is 35, my waist is 37, and my hips are 47 (and I’m only 5’2″). We’re actually surprisingly similar, but you’ve got more boob! I love this series though – it’s so interesting to get into the knitty gritty of fitting!
I love this series, too, Gillian! It’s fascinating to dive deep into people’s shapes and adjustments. From the comment trail, I’m now wishing I’d supplied even more measurements, like torso length and underbust. It’s really remarkable how we can have similar measurements on paper, but completely different shapes! I still cannot understand the bra thing, though. It’s a mystery!
I’m the opposite in that the last thing I want to emphasize is my waist since I don’t have one! I’m 5’8″ tall too but that’s about all 🙂 I’m 41 full bust (37 upper), 36 waist and 41 hip. A box on sticks 🙂 I know they say it’s better to do whatever we can to make it LOOK like we boxes have a waist by cinching it in but to be honest that’s never worked for me. I tend to make blousy tunics and wear an elastic belt around my hip with leggings (I have long slim legs). I like the Laurel by Colette (I’ve made that a few times!) and a few others too. I’m now working on the Camas blouse by Thread Theory (which I love!) and a style arc t-shirt pattern that I’m now on my second and will undoubtedly make a few of!
Kathleen, your shape sounds very similar to my mother’s and I have always been envious of her long, slim legs! Like you, she looks fabulous in the same shift dresses and blousy tops that I can’t pull off at all. Also, the Camas blouse is gorgeous! I bet it looks sensational on you.