Hello there, CSC! Today’s Sewing for My Curves post comes from the bold and beautiful Martha of GariChild. Enjoy!
Hey Everyone!!! I’m Martha and you can follow my sewing journey and shenanigans on Instagram @GariChild. Can I take a moment to officially geek out and live in the moment? #lovethisgroup #myinspiration #mymentors #weareallbestfriendsinmyhead
My cup runneth over in gratitude on the wealth of information and inspiration provided by the Curvy Sewing Collective, you ladies rock!!!
My Body
- Upper bust: 44″
- Full bust: 47″
- Waist: 45″
- Hips: 58″
- Bra size: 44DDD
- Height: 5’6”
- Body type: Depends on my battle gear aka SPANX but I think I gravitate closer to a pear shape most days
- RTW Size: US size usually ranges between 20-24 for bottoms and 18-20 on my tops.
- Pattern Size: In the Big 4 sewing patterns, my measurements usually fall in the 22-28 range. I tend to rely more on the finished measurements listed for the garment to determine what will best suit my needs and comfort.
Adjustments I typically make
Making adjustments is like a whole new world to me and it has taken my sewing to another level.
- Sway back adjustment. Still learning how to properly do a sway back adjustment when I tackle new patterns but I can clearly see the amazing difference in how my garments look when I take out the excess fabric that usually pools on the small of my back.
- Grade between sizes. Self-denial is the devil, but I am starting to trust my measurements. The numbers don’t lie. My top and bottom usually fall in different size categories and I am at a point in my sewing where I am comfortable grading my patterns to fit my unique body.
- Full butt and hip adjustments. While I am grateful to the wonderful assets bestowed on me since birth, having to adjust a pants/skirt/dress pattern to fully accommodate my glory is still a work in progress, but I am getting there.
- Large bicep adjustment. As I enter my first Fall/Winter sewing season, the need to tackle sleeves is looming in the horizon. Arrggghhhhh, can you sense the agony?!? My bicep is always a problem in RTW and I tend to avoid sleeves in my sewing agenda as much as possible but I have some outerwear patterns in my stash that need to happen!
I think there are other adjustments I need to make like a narrow shoulder and full bust adjustments, but I am a work in progress. As I continue in my journey I see the need to make some basic slopers for my fit. It’s one thing to sew a garment but another when you sew to fit your curvy body. There is nothing anyone can say to steal my joy when I am wearing a garment that fits and hugs me in all the right places. Talk about empowering!!!
Sewing Highlights
Ankara gives me life!: I love sewing with Ankara Wax fabric…the colors… the bold print… it just speaks to my spirit. This is actually the main reason I started sewing. The cost to get a custom African Ankara garment is very expensive especially as a plus some diva. I remember trying to order a custom dress online and when I got ready to checkout, there was a 50% upcharge for my size!!!! Instead of getting the dress, I used the money to purchase my sewing machine and that was the beginning of this journey.
Self Drafted: These are my first 2 successful projects that came out perfect, even with all of their flaws! I set out making cigarette pants in this Samacaca print from an existing pair I owned. The resulting pants were not what I was going for but love the way they came out. This was my first time making pants! 
The skirt is a simple pleated skirt I saw on YouTube. It’s a lined skirt, and had me adding darts, waistbands, lining, invisible zippers, and POCKETS! Also, check out that pattern matching work right there. #Ididthat #ocdtendencies #aninvisiblezipperyoudontsee
And then I discovered the wonderful world of sewing patterns! #mindblown #patternaddict #mypatternsneedtheirownroom
Wrap Dresses: Nothing in the world screams sexy like a great wrap dress!! This is definitely my go-to style and pattern. Soon as I put one on, I just know I look good. I think one of the biggest reasons why I chose these two patterns to start my wrap dress obsession was because my size range was available straight from the envelope. Sometimes I don’t feel like whipping out my tracing paper and grading a pattern from a Size 22 to 26, so I am appreciative of patterns that do the work for me.
Simplicity 8137 and McCalls 6744
Tent and Shift Dresses: Don’t underestimate the power of an easy sew. Tent and shift dresses are usually what I need to get me out of a sewing rut. Pick a fun fabric with lots of colors, bold prints and sew these babies up. This is usually what it takes to jumpstart my sewing mojo and I have an instant outfit that I can throw on to hit the streets when the need arises.
Leralynn Dress by Blank Slate Patterns
I could not help but to include this beautiful dress I wore to a friend’s wedding, but with some disclaimers. This is a perfect example of taking a failure and making it work. This is supposed to be McCall’s 7315. First time doing a full bust adjustment, did some grading, 2 muslins and I still managed to get it all wrong in my final cut. Not to be defeated or waste fabric, I added some pleats, darts and kept it moving until magic happened. One of the many lessons that sewing has taught me is that you cannot be hard on yourself when your sewing projects don’t come out as plan…reevaluate, learn from your mistakes and just keep it moving, the end product might come out better than you envisioned! #teamnofabricwaste
Tops and Bottoms: First is my Leralynn Dress hack… I took my dress pattern and made it into a tunic with side splits. This pattern was the perfect template to showcase this beautiful print and I really enjoyed playing with the fabric to come up with a cool visual in the front. I think this tunic definitely crowned me #PatternMatchingQueen. For my shorts I used the pattern in the Luna Loungewear Collection from Love Notions. I didn’t even have to do an alteration to accommodate all my goodness. Perfection right out of the package.
Luna Shorts by Love Notions and Leralynn Dress Hack
I am still kicking myself for waiting till the end of the summer to buy this trendy off shoulder tunic from HotPatterns because this pattern is amazing. Made two more and I have a dress hack in mind as well! Winter is such a kill joy. #bringbacksummer #notwinterready
Definitely looking to add some solids and staple pieces to my wardrobe this season and so this Auberley top from Blank Slate Patterns is a great transition as I venture into other fabric choices in my stash.
Auberley Tunic by Blank Slate Patterns
What’s next on my sewing agenda?
There are so many indie pattern companies that I am dying to try out. I have been eyeing Cashmerette patterns for a while and when @SewPrettyinPink slayed in her Ankara Upton dress #inserthappydance #shegavemelife!
Also on the top of my sewing wish list:
Shirtdresses: Any shirtdress will do. Every time I see Mary post a shirtdress, I just swoon! Ranks way up there with my wrap dress obsession, but buttonholes may be my kryptonite.
Jeans: You ladies have been killing the game with the variety of Ginger jeans in the CSC that I really just need to try them myself. Those skinny jeans are calling my name!
Outerwear: I have some beautiful wool in my stash that needs to make its way into a winter coat. The Clare Coat from Closet Case Files is tugging at my heart strings. I really just need to pull the trigger and get that and her Ginger jeans pattern.
Sew much to do and sew little time. Thank you for allowing me to share the space. Happy sewing everyone!
i follow you on feedly (here), and instagram.
I JUST FOUND YOUR BRA!!!!! WHERE IN THE WORLD DID YOU FIND A BRA PATTERN THAT HAS A CUP SIZE THAT FITS BIG BOOBS????? i always knew i wouldn’t have to take my bras apart if i waited long enough.
man, life is good!
LOL Definitely look up CSC’s lingerie month series which has a plethora of great resources for patterns for bras and undies. The one I made was based on the California Bra pattern I got from http://www.porcelynne.com. There are also a couple of Bra Making Facebook Group that are amazing!!!!
I’m glad I found your post tonight. After finishing a blah shirt I was ready to stop trying to fit my own figure. Your beautiful garments have inspired me to keep going and spend the time it may take to ‘fix’ my patterns. Thanks!!!!!
Great job! I love the pants. You have inspired me! Thank you.
Thank you so very much for sharing your story and pictures. You are a GORGEOUS curvy lady and you are so inspiring! I’m headed to my sewing room right now to dig out all my garment patterns.
Love the outfits adore the fabrics!
Wow! You sure have been busy. I love your colorfol fabric choices and determination to get the fit right.
Gorgeous! I love your sense of style and your fabric choices!
Martha you look amazing. Your style and fabric choices are spot on. Thank you for the insight into your sewing journey!
I love absolutely all of this, especially that gorgeous modified yellow dress. Yowza!
I just love your advice to sew up a tent dress to get your sewing mo-jo back. I am in love with your entire outfit made around the Simplicity 1105: the dress fabric is gorgeous and the black leather jacket and boots make it cool. I have not made a tent or swing dress because I think my big chest will make it look like I’m wearing an unflattering mu-mu. But no longer! I’m going to make a few for spring/summer. You are awesome and so gorgeous! Your wrap dresses are just so,so beautiful on you. Thanks for the post!
Martha, your style is awesome! I love your colorful wardrobe and how fabulous it looks on you. It’s a goal of mine to have a wardrobe as colorful and suited to me as yours is to you!
What a great post – lovely to see your style and your sewing successes (and to see wonderful clothes on a figure whose measurements correspond to my own so closely). I really liked your advice about refusing to give up on a garment that hasn’t worked out right. I am so often tempted to abandon these…
Wonderful post, happy, colourful and informative. Keep up the great creative work. A real passion there.
Pretty pretty. So glad to have found this site with real women, real curves. Real body parts. Your wardrobe is gorgeous. I love color as well and it’s great to see someone who isn’t afraid to embrace it.
Martha, your handmade wardrobe is fabulous! You know what you like, and what suits you, and just go for it, with stunning results! Your leralyn dresses, and that blue wrap dress, oh man, that blue wrap dress! This was a really inspiring post – thanks so much.
Regarding buttonholes – do a couple of practice ones on scrap fabric, to get the hang of it, and you will be fine. you can do them by hand too, if you feel like you need more control over the process.
Martha, your intuition for pattern matching is fabulous. I loved all your outfits and the story with them. I especially liked the black and white one and your instructions on it. Thanks for great inspiration.
You are very inspiring. I wish I could learn adaptations for my patterns this well Coodo’s girl.
Buttonholes just need practice and a good tutorial. You can do it!! I love your style. Keep it up!
Wow! What inspiration you have offered us, Martha. Thank you so much. I adore your fabric choices and patterns that highlight your beauty.
positively gorgeous!!
I love everything about your post! So much positivity is refreshing to read!
You have talent girl. I love your choice of fabrics too. I’m inspired to give it a go. Thank you.
WOW! I LOOOVE your fabrics, and then the way you placed the prints is amazing! Hope to see more of your creations here.
Wow, Martha! You are awesome and your sewing is awesome, especially all those gorgeous prints!
You are a beautiful lady…keep sewing and inspiring us.
LOVE how you own your style girl!!! Fabulous!
Your makes are beautiful. I especially like the black and white skirt. And I think I am going to have to make the Ginger jeans, too.
YAY Martha! You are fab. Your clothes are fab. Your sewing is fab. Your ATTITUDE is fab.
We have the same measurements and bra size. I get so discouraged trying to make Big 4 patterns fit me. Thank you, thank you, thank you to the wonderful independent pattern makers out there, and THANK YOU MARTHA for blazing the trail making them and showing me that YES, I TOO can have great looking clothes without going to design school and drafting my own patterns (for which I do not have the time, the aptitude, the patience). YOU ARE INSPIRATIONAL!!! You make me feel like I CAN DO IT, TOO! I mean, we are body doubles, and LOOK AT YOU!!! Not a frumpy outfit in sight. You look NOTHING like a homeless bag lady, which is what all my loose knit clothes I bought on the internet make me feel and look. Keep up updated on those upper arm adjustments – I struggle with that in my RTW purchases and sewing, as well. YOU GO GIRL!!!
Best wishes!
I felt exactly the same – same measurements, tend to ‘cover up’ in loose clothes. Now inspired by Martha to be bolder! We can do it!
Thank you Thank you Thank you!!! Ladies 2017 is time to bring out our sexy and have fun! Can’t wait to see what we come up with!
Love, love your clothing! I’m making a list of your patterns.
Great post, very inspiring. Thank you!
Wow! You just got me out of my deep no-energy-for-sewing-hole! Same size as me and just rocking all those patterns and prints! And so much enthusiasm! Lovely! I want to make some shirtdresses as well thanks to Mary but those darn buttons…
Do not fear buttonholes, they are easy once you get the hang of it. Take an afternoon sit with your instruction book or u-tube or the threads website and make 5 buttonholes on scrap fabric, I promise by the fifth one you will be a pro.
I have close to your measurements and you gave me some great ideas.
You are a great seamstress
#bestpostever! You are a print fabric genius!!!
WOW !! Looking good Lady. Keep up the good work.,
There is no outfit I don’t absolutely adore in this post. LOVE LOVE LOVE that blue sleeveless wrap and what you did with the print in the black and white self-drafted pattern skirt. This post have given me life on a morning when, quite frankly, I’m in need.
you are a very bold, beautiful, and talented curvy sewist !
WOW! I love your style. All of these garments look so well constructed and your pattern placement shows a really amazing eye for detail. looking forward to seeing more of you work!
Martha you made this post so much fun to read and see! I loved all your makes and what strikes me immediately is how well you know yourself, your style, what you like and what suits you and just going right for it! Those African cotton skinny pants you made from a pair that wore out were (I think?) the most amazing but your full collection is stunning. Thank you for taking the time to write a post that was so pleasurable. I too am a get-that-darn-fit-right woman – my main goal for 2017 is exactly that so at the gate I’m starting out with 2 princess seams – one a blouse (the Harrison by Cashmerette with Jenny’s course) and the second the Housewife Dress by Decades of Style that I just LOVE 🙂 I look forward to reading more of your makes in the future.
Such an inspirational post. I’ve been sewing for a year now and need to grow my reportaire to include more than fit and flare dresses. With measurements similar to mine you’ve given me a nudge to try something different. Your style is fabulous and you look amazing!
I loved the beautiful fabrics. You scored on the matching seams.” You go girl”! I found your enthusiasm inspiring. I am just starting to work with my curves. You can be a good seamstress but when you combine that with good fit nothing compares to that. I made my first sloper…even though it was very fitted…1. I realised what good fit feels like. 2. Work with your curves. It builds confidence..I can look curvy and feel beautiful just the way I am!
LOVE!!! Each and everyone of your me-mades Martha! Thank you for being such an inspiration and fun voice to start out my morning today. I’m going to be more daring and have more fun in my fabric and pattern choices from here on out!
Martha, I just love this post. It made me so happy when I was editing it, and it makes me happy all over again to read it on the CSC! Glad to have your positive attitude and your bright prints to inspire me!!
PS. I was scared of buttonholes for years. That is why many of my clothes have hammer in snaps!?
Fearlessly going where all women should go! Rock on girl, you look fabulous in your me made wardrobe! Great post!
GAWD
I am so jealous of your wardrobe! That dress you never gave up on is WONDERFUL!!!!!!
Do you get all your fabric at Ankara? DO you have any other fabric sources?
This is so inspiring and damn you look so great! I am just starting out and I have started making self-drafted tops but nothing looks as good as what you made! With Time though, and practise I hope my wardrobe looks as good as yours! Thanks so much.
Thank you! Ankara is the name of the fabric “style”. You can find Ankara fabric in stores like MOOD now. There are many online shops on ETSY that has a variety of great Ankara fabric as well. Thank you so much!
Wow Martha! Thanks so much for sharing your story. I love your style and fabric picks. The blue wrap dress is fantastic and you rock it!
Wow! You really are the pattern matching queen!! Great job! I have no doubt that you will master buttonholes right away – no doubt!
Love your post – thanks for sharing!
What an awesome way to start my day! I’m also plus size, but about 5 inches shorter – I really envy your eye when it comes to patterns and color (and pattern matching!), and so wish I could pull off these looks. I can’t believe this is your first Fall/Winter sewing — looks like you’ve been doing this for years. I mean, I could end every sentence of this review with an exclamation point! Love, love, LOVE these looks!
Thank you, thank you Thank you!