Hey CSC! We are sooo excited to bring back our Sewing for My Curves series and asked Cheryl, one of our many followers who contributes so much in our CSC FaceBook group, to share with us on how she sews for her curves. Enjoy!
Sewing is my hobby, therapy, and way of participating in a like-minded community. It is also my way to have clothes that are a better fit for my figure, preferences, and personality than anything ready-to-wear seems to offer. Sewing challenges, grows, and soothes me, usually all at once.
My Figure/body type/attributes: I’m not a fruit, musical instrument, or any other identifiable shape. I was an overfull hourglass until midlife figure shifting started. Now? Busty, belly, hippy, and learning to be sew for that.
Measurements:
- Upper Bust: 42.5”
- Bust: 48”
- Under Bust: 42”
- Waist: 43”
- Hips: 52/54” (see below)
- Height: 5’ 9”
- Bra Size: 42DDD to 44D, depending on the brand
RTW sizes: 18-22 tops & dresses, 20-24 pants. It’s very dependent on the brand.
Adjustments I use: Lots!
Grading between sizes. It is very rare for me to sew anything for myself that did not need grading between sizes. It might be because of the bust, waist, or hips. Sometimes all of these!
Lengthening. I’m 5’ 9”. My height is fairly distributed between torso and legs. I need to add length to almost everything I sew for myself, including bodice, pants/leggings, sleeves, dresses/skirts.
- My backside is both high and wide. I add length to the back of skirts and dresses to avoid my hemlines appearing a lot shorter in the back than the front. Reverse high-low hems are definitely not the look I go for!
- Because of my bust size and shape I also often need to add a small amount to the center front hemline of tops and tees so that I end up with garments with even-looking hems while I wear them.
Full bust adjustment. I have a disproportionately small upper bust and slightly narrow shoulders. I need an FBA on virtually all patterns (with the exception of those drafted for a very loose fit). I have a 5-6” upper-to-full bust difference and find that I also need to do a small FBA on many patterns that include a full bust piece. Depending on the pattern and fabric type, I’ve used several different FBA types.
Jessie graded 1 size for waist and 2 for hips
Narrow shoulder. If the neckline already fits well and the bust drafted to be a loose fit, I’m usually better off with a narrow shoulder adjustment. Except for the dropped look of dolmans, garments always look and feel like they fit better when the shoulders fit well.
Grading for hips/waist. My post-menopausal figure has shifted some of the sand around over the past several years and I am still learning how to best work with my lower body fit needs.My high and full hip measurements are only about an inch different. My waist and full hip measurements are more than ten inches difference. I have wider/fuller/higher back hips, and more waistline in front than in back. I read an Itch to Stitch blog post a couple of years ago that completely changed how I look at, and sew for, my hips. Basically, I was using standard measuring landmarks that didn’t take my protruding abdomen and square backside into account. By following this method, I now get a much better fit in my hips. This makes grading for my waist easier.
Full bicep adjustment. I have my Aunt Ruth’s beefy upper arms. All fitted and semi-fitted sleeves need a bicep adjustment for me. I also enjoy modifying a standard short sleeve into a slight flutter style and do this via simple v-shaped slash and spread wedges. It’s cute, it’s comfortable, and I am a fan of both!
Valetta with full bust, narrow shoulder, and modified to slight flutter sleeve.
Front and Rear rise. All pants patterns that I sew for myself need adjustments to the rise. Every single one needs additional height in the back rise to fit my square backside and stay up. I also sometimes have to lower the front rise to help the waistband sit at my body’s waistline. If I don’t adjust the front, the pants just slide down and look baggy in the front crotch.
Adjust crotch curves. Sometimes referred to as “scoop out the crotch.” This adjustment is done to center front and/or back pants seams to allow for a better fit on the body. It takes some practice at first, but once you know your body and fit needs it’s a simple adjustment that alters the curved shapes of those seams and gives you a much-improved fit.
Pockets: I omit pockets much of the time as they add bulk or draw attention places I’m not really trying to showcase.
Patterns/styles I prefer: I love PDF patterns. I have a file box full of “Big 4” patterns and have sewn less than a handful of them. I sew with both woven and knit fabrics but fully confess to loving comfort above all else. Yes, I want my garments to look good. But who says they shouldn’t feel good too?
I dress business casual for work. This means pants, solid dark jeans, dresses, tops or blouses, and layers. I prefer my tops longer or right at hipbone level. Other lengths ride up or don’t flatter as much. I don’t do a lot of intricate sewing but do enjoy an interesting detail here and there. When not at work I want all the comfort, all the time. Jeans, joggers, leggings, tees, sweaters, tunics. Besides undergarments these make up the majority of my not-at-work wardrobe. Bonus makes for me are any that can do double duty for work and play wear!
TnT patterns: My #1 favorite pattern is the Diane Joggers by 5 Out of 4 Patterns. I use this pattern for comfortable casual wear, but also for work pants. Ponte joggers “trousers” for work? Yes, please! I have quite a few other 5 Out of 4 patterns that I love and wear often. Other favorite design brands? Love Notions Patterns, Blank Slate Patterns, and Rad Patterns.
Future sewing goals: For the last 1-2 years my goals included sewing jackets or coats. Goal met! My current sewing goal is pants that aren’t leggings or joggers. Jeans are high on my list and I need to stop dragging my heels and embrace that learning curve!
Could you pls tell me what pattern you used for the wine colored, button front, flowered shirt? I would like to make one myself.
Thanks,
Ada
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Can you pls tell me what pattern you used for the button front, wine colored, flowered shirt? I think it is very flattering for a fuller figure and would like to make one.
Thanks,
Ada
Chapin and Garifuna!!??!! OMG You have to write a book. About sewing and EVERYTHING else!! What an amazing life you must have. That is some serious culture. You are a princess!!
Thank you for writing this article, it’s helping me understand how to sew better for my daughter. We’re both curvy but in different ways.
Thanks again!
I love your choices, your taste is a lot like mine. I have a hard time with the rise of pants also as I am hippy. I have sewn since I was young and am in my sixties now.
I buy many vintage patterns from the 70s and 80s as the newer patterns are not my style.
Good luck with your sewing journeys.
Thank you Pat! It sounds like you’ve learned about patterns that work better for you. Hooray! Happy sewing!
Awesome tips that apply to my body. Thank you!
You’re welcome Detra! I’m glad they were useful 🙂
Fantastic post. The standard measuring practices went out the window when I hit menopause. I make a muslin of everything unless it is a TNT that I have made recently. I’m also on a learning curve sewing garments for plus sized friends and discovered I need to measure them for EVERY garment. Looking forward to more posts from you. Your garments are gorgeous!
Where are the photos of our lovely new editors on the front page?
Thank you Steph! This was my first time writing something like this. I appreciate the compliment!
Also, good catch on the measuring Every time, every garment part. Plus sized figures tend to have a significant learning curve. 🙂
Hi Cheryl, Love your attitude on shifting sands! Your comments on fitting make sense, I have been doing a lot of trial and error and you’ve given me confidence to carry on. I haven’t wore button front blouses for years but your blouse has convinced me I should sew one.
Thank you, please keep writing.
Thank you Cheryl! It’s definitely a journey for me. I have learned a lot about the value of looking at figure needs and measurements as data, not as (yet another) place for me to feel judged and come up lacking. If I can do this, you can too!
Love the “sand shifting” comment and your makes are wonderful. We have similar heights and figure issues, so delighted to see how the patterns look on you. It’s interesting, when I see photos of curvy sewers and look at the measurements I can’t believe how great the clothes look. It inspires me.
Thank you Lynn! I’ve learned that embracing the learning curve needed for sewing for my curves (no pun intended, but yes, it’s definitely a chuckle-worthy phrase!) has rewarded me with the ability to choose patterns, fabrics, styles, and adjustments that suit me body and my fit and style preferences. No shortcuts were taken on this journey. Time, fabric, and patience in abundance were the three key investments. 🙂
HI Cheryl The article you recommended for correct hip measurement really made sense. Doing that now! But scoop out the crotch? I’ll need to research that one. You are a gifted writer as well as sewist. The article was informative, and you look very nice in your clothes.
Thank you Pamela. Another way I’ve seen the crotch fitting is by the “crotch sausage” method of fitting. I think 5 Out of 4 Patterns has info about this. I know I’ve seen several tutorials that discuss it.
Just love you’re makes! Thanks for all the details ,,,,,,keep up the good work!
Thank you Laura!
Menopause never looked so good! Inspirational!
Thank you Cindy!
Thank you Jamie. It’s been a process of trial, error, success, repeat. I needed to rethink how I thought about it early on. Not judging my measurements as anything other than data was a big one. Accepting that making test garments (call them a muslin or toile) was not a waste of fabric was just as important. All art takes practice to improve. I’m willing to practice a new-to-me pattern with less expensive fabric to ensure a good fit with the fabric I love.
I have been sewing for 40 years and have never had the confidence to do anything more than a fba. I am in awe, you have inspired me to figure out how to make pants that fit. RTW don’t fit so how can it be any worse?! You are my new hero!
Thank you Beth. Trust me when I say that if I can do it, you can too! The best tip I ever got about learning to fit me is to work from the top of the body, moving down. The second, and still most useful? Take advantage of the Facebook sewing community’s myriad opportunities. There is So much knowledge and experience there!
Thank you for a wonderful article, I can relate to post menopausal everything. Good tips
Thank you Debra. It’s been (and continues to be) a journey for sure!
I really enjoyed your write up. We are similar age and size so I can relate…AND your clothes look so nice on you!!!
Thank you for your information, examples, and suggestions!!!
Thank you Kathie. You’re very welcome!
This was such a fantastic and helpful post! I’ve not been sewing apparel for very long (I just started last year) and while I’ve had a bit of success, I’ve had far more fails that I just couldn’t figure out how to remedy. The way Cheryl talks about her measurements and needed adjustments actually makes sense to me, and I can now see that I should be doing more adjustments right off the bat 😁?
Thank you!
Hi Jamie,
Thank you! I like to look at my “fails” as failing forward. I learned something that did not work for me, or something that needed improving, from each one.
Regarding adjustments: Some definitely need doing right away. For example, If I know that my waist or hips are not matching for the bust (tops & dresses here), grading to the right size for me is a must. If I know my bust needs more…er…wiggle room ;), Full Bust Adjustment first, then grading to my waist/hips because FBA will add some front width to the garment and I also don’t want to end up with too much.
Great resources on fitting are available in many places. There are also differing methods and opinions on pattern adjusting out there. One ‘size’ (adjustment) does not fit all when it comes to adjusting patterns. I have used many tutorials on this website, and gleaned a lot of useful information by asking questions in Facebook groups. If you’re not already in them, I recommend the Curvy Sewing Collective Community Facebook group, the 52 Week Sewing Challenge FB group, and individual groups specific to pattern brands/designers.
In short? There aren’t any stupid questions and many of us in the online sewing community enjoy being able to support and mentor others who are newer to the craft. Have fun!