Same Pattern, Different Bodies: Tania “Curve” Culottes

I have had my eye on the Tania Culottes for ages. They’ve looked great on most women, and I loved the idea of work-appropriate shorts that can masquerade as a skirt. However, with Megan Nielsen’s previously limited size range, I didn’t want to grade up the pattern nor support a pattern maker with a non-inclusive size range.

When Megan announced the expansion of her size range a few months ago, I ecstatically snapped up a copy of the Tania Curve Culottes almost immediately. Given the perennial popularity of the original Tanias in the online sewing community, the new Tania Curves seemed like a natural choice for a Same Pattern, Different Bodies post on the CSC blog.

The following size chart shows the Curve size range for the Tania culottes:

Kristina

• Measurements: Bust –44″/112cm, Bra Size – 16DD, Waist – 38-40″/99 cm. Hips – 48-50″/124cm , Height – 5’6″/166 cm
• Body Shape: Pear from the front, but more apple from the side at the moment, (I’m a Cider /Perry mix…)
• Pattern size used: I haven’t used Megan Nielsen patterns before, so I cut a straight Size 22. I figure with a zip closure there wouldn’t be a lot of give, and who wants a too tight waistband!? I used a PDF version of this pattern, it came together really well. As a visual learner I also found the https://blog.megannielsen.com/category/tips-tutorials/mn2203tania/ really helpful, particularly for inserting the invisible zip, which I’d never done before
• Alterations: None, I made these straight out of the packet. I made View C, a midi length with less volume. That’s very much a relative term, as you can see, there is plenty of volume!

• Fabric: A lovely drapey rayon from https://www.spotlightstores.com/nz , thankfully on sale (I used just on four metres of fabric!) I wanted something really light with plenty of swish to make the most of the “skirt with secret pants” effect. Do bear in mind you are cutting on the bias so you need a decent cutting space , patience, and hopefully something to keep the cats occupied…Also using a slippery fabric like rayon may slightly add to the “sweary/drink more wine” facto of your sew, it did mine!  I’m glad I love the finished product!
• Fit: Because the fabric is so light, I should have used interfacing on the waistband with a bit more heft, the waistband feels a little stretched and floppy. It didn’t help that by the time I was finishing sewing the waistband most of the interfacing had come away from the fabric. I could possibly go down a size at the waist and grade out to the hips, my waist is short so I actually prefer if it sat up a bit higher rather than slipping down. I really like the pleats front and back, keeping fabric under control around the tummy, with the volume skimming over my hips & creating a fab skirt effect. I worried about the fit around the crotch, and no I can’t even think of how to make that sound better. But for me anyway the fit worked, no danger of camel toe, even if you could see it under 4 miles of fabric, without unnecessary sag (keeping it real here at the CSC!)

• Changes for future versions: As above, depending on fabric I may adjust the waistband going forward. I was in the supermarket the other day & a woman queuing for the till next door was wearing the most fabulous culottes, very similar to the Tania’s in a wonderful textured linen, they had a cool exposed zip, she looked wonderfully chic. I really wanted to take a photo for reference, but it was a wee bit awkward (have you ever tried to do the sneaky “I love your outfit, but I don’t want to creep you out and this is my local supermarket so I really don’t want to be banned” photo?) Yes, tricky. But I have them on my mind…
• Final Thoughts: Really happy with this pattern, I feel really comfortable in these culottes, they look great, are very easy to wear. It’s a great versatile pattern, there will certainly be more! I received my pattern very kindly gratis from Megan Nielsen in exchange for a fair review…(without wishing to toot my horn I think they look/are great).

Maggie

• Measurements: Bust — 44”, Waist — 40”, Hips — 47” Height 5’3”.
• Body Shape: Busty apple? Hourglass with a belly?
• Pattern size used: I own the smaller size range which I bought before the Curve sizes were release. I used the largest size I had—size 20.
• Alterations: I graded up to a size 24 at the waist since these would sit below my high waist. It turned out to be a little too much, and I added some elastic to the rear waist. I picked a below-the-knee length which didn’t correspond exactly to any of the offered lengths. Is my hem a little uneven? Maaaaybe. (These culottes have a lot of hem. Hem for days!) I used the pocket for the size 12 so the bottom would be too low for my short arms. I like to be able to reach the bottom of the pocket. It is still a generously-sized pocket.

• Fabric: This is Robert Kaufman’s Essex linen-cotton blend. The color is called Malibu. It is a slightly sturdier woven which I thought would work well for all seasons.
• Fit: This pattern was redrafted for it’s re-release, and I compared the two versions. I love the added pockets, and the slightly more curved waistband. These culottes are fantastically comfortable, and I want to live in them all summer.

• Changes for future versions: I’d like to try these in a rayon. I think a fabric with more drape would give a dressier look. I like having the elastic waistband in the back, so I might just keep that feature in my future versions. I did put in a very respectable invisible zipper, but now I never need it. I basically want everything to have an elastic waistband.
• Final Thoughts: These use a lot of fabric, so I didn’t have any big enough pieces in my stash. There is an option for a less full version, and I might give that a try to make use of my stash. I already have two pairs of these, and I plan to make a couple more.

Michelle

• Measurements: High Bust – 42″, Bust –45.5″, Bra Size – 40D/DD, Waist – 42″, Hips – 46″, Height – 5’2″.
• Body Shape: My body type is somewhere between a hourglass and rectangle from the front, and an apple from the side.

• Pattern size used: Based on my measurements and experience with the Megan Nielsen Flint Curve shorts, I sewed an 18 at the hip and graded to a size 22 at the waist. I’m still wearing my Flint shorts regularly, but the size 22 waist is definitely more comfortable.
• Alterations: I took one inch off of the hem length, after trying the culottes on–they came down to my knees, as drafted. Other than that, I didn’t make any alterations beyond grading between an 18 at the hip and a 22 at the waist.

• Fabric: I used this rather whimsical mushroom print rayon poplin from StyleMaker Fabrics. Drape/hand-wise, this fabric is essentially a beefier, more stable rayon challis.

• Fit: I’m quite happy with the fit of these. I’ll likely continue to use this sizing combination for Megan Nielsen Curve patterns going forward.
• Changes for future versions: This is my favorite view of this pattern, and I can definitely see myself making more of these. I love how they’re still shorts but look like a skirt. These feel much more office-appropriate (whimsical mushroom print aside) than most styles of shorts.

• Final Thoughts: The Tania Culottes are a classic indie pattern for a good reason. I’ve been eyeing them for years but didn’t want to pay for a pattern where I was so far out of the size range. I am very happy that Megan expanded her size range so that women of many more sizes can enjoy the swishiness of these culottes!

Tanya

Alright, so my version of the Tania Culottes are a fail. I was able to get these to fit, but I won’t be wearing them again, especially after seeing the back view. This is my fault and not that of the pattern and it has to do with the rise and how low this one is. I have made split skirts before without this ever being the issue, so I didn’t think to measure the crotch curve nor see how far the rise goes up as it does not land on my natural waist and won’t without alterations.

• Measurements: 50-46-54, Height 5’8
• Body Shape: Pear-ish
• Pattern size used: 28
• Alterations: Initially, none. But after beautifully sewing these and finishing them off, I found that they did not fit at all. I had to unpick the waistband and add a piece to it, along with re-positioning the back pleat and re-sewing it, which now looks pretty bad on me, but at least I could get them on and share them with you.

• Fabric: Midweight Tencel denim
• Fit: These have a terrible fit on me with the low waist. As I went by waist measurement and not the midway measurement between my natural waist and my hip, they did not fit at all. If I had noticed this before, a higher rise would have alleviated this issue.
• Changes for future versions: Lengthen the rise and possibly alter the crotch curve..
• Final Thoughts: My version is a fail and I won’t be wearing these again. I will re-purpose this fabric for something else. After I noticed how bad the fit was, these sat in my UFO sewing cart for months before I gathered up the energy to work on them. I’m not sure that I will make another pair in the future as it’s a lot of fabric for the view I prefer and I think I’d rather just have a regular skirt.