Same Pattern, Different Bodies: Ottobre Autumn Warmer Hoodie

When the most recent Ottobre Magazine shipped out, the “Autumn Warmer” hoodie stood out to all three of us as a “must make” for fall. There is something about the style that just about manages to make a hoodie into something chic! For those of you that have been hesitant to get into pattern magazines (like Megan was), Ottobre is a great introduction to that style of pattern delivery. The women’s issue delivers twice a year and has a manageable amount of patterns that are nicely designed: elevated basics. Even better, nearly all (if not all) patterns in each issue are available in Ottobre’s full size range.

This pattern can be found in issue 5/2018. Unfortunately you can’t buy it as a stand alone PDF pattern, but you can order the issue with all 20 patterns for EUR 10.75 on their website.

The Autumn Warmer Hoodie features:

• Merino wool knit, but works well in other fabrics too (see below)
• Full Ottobre size range (up to a size 52 with a 48″ / 122 cm bust and 49.25″ / 125 cm hips)
• Hood that is integrated into the front pattern piece, much like a shawl collar, which makes for interesting construction
• Optional tie belt

This particular pattern is a great introduction to magazine patterns for newbies, as this hoodie only has three pattern pieces to trace, and with its forgiving fit, it should require minimal fitting adjustments for most women.

Megan

• Measurements: Bust –45″, Bra Size – 30C, Waist – 41-42″ depending, Hips – 52″, Height – 5’7″
• Body Shape: I’m representing “team pear” in this SPDB post
• Pattern size used: 50, which corresponds with my bust measurement.
• Alterations:  On my first version, I forgot to add seam allowance, which is a typically mistake for me with this pattern company since I am not used to having to add them myself. Watch out for that! On my second version (the one shown here), I did remember to add seam allowances! I am happy with the fit, though honestly it was OK with out the seam allowances as well. I did go back and slim down the sleeve about 3/4″ each because I felt they were too wide on the second version.

• Fabric: My first version is made in a french terry, which felt beautiful as I was sewing it, but started pilling immediately after I started wearing it. Boo. I do think that french terry is a great choice for this pattern, just make sure you get a high quality one that won’t pill. My second version is in a coral colored merino wool knit, as the pattern intended. I LOVE it but I know it can be hard to find some places. I was lucky enough to stumble upon this at my local(ish) fabric store, Stitchology in Albuquerque.
• Fit: Like most of the Ottobre patterns I have made, the fit is great and straightforward. As long as I do my typical grading between sizes, I haven’t been disappointed with their drafting, it always seems to have the appropriate amount of ease for a modern fit. This pattern had the extra added detail of a built in FBA, but I’ll let the bustier ladies talk about that!
• Changes for future versions: None! I can see myself making one of these every fall for the foreseeable future and it has also been requested for Christmas gifts this year.

Final thoughts: What is better than a hoodie that you can wear to the office? Great pattern!

Mary

• Measurements: Bust –46″ , High Bust — 40″, Bra Size — 38E, Waist — 37″, Hips — 48″, Height — 5’8″
• Body Shape: Hourglass
• Pattern Size Used: 50, based on my bust measurement

• Alterations: I narrowed the shoulders by 1″, which is a standard alteration of mine with most pattern companies. After looking at these photos, I’m also going to narrow the bottom half of the sleeves, which are a hair too wide.
• Fabric: Bamboo French Terry, which is a soft, gorgeous fabric, but not quite right for this pattern. My particular terry leans toward classic sweatershirting and bags out with wear, as a result. When I make this pattern again, I’ll use a true wool knit like Megan did with her second version. A fabric with springy recovery, like Michelle’s, is much better for this style than my first choice.
• Fit: I do love the built in FBA of this pattern! The pattern has extra length in the front bodice, which is eased in around the bust, giving it a nice shape there. Overall, I think I would be happier with one size down, though. It might be the fabric I used, which is the least clingy knit ever, or just my own preferences in sweater fit. Either way, the next time I make this, I’m going to make a 48 instead.

• Changes For The Future: Go down a size and use a sweater knit with better recovery! There’s too much fabric everywhere in this first version and it looks messy, if I don’t pay attention to how it’s falling. I do love that Ottobre drafts for a taller figure, however. Not adding length to a pattern is a novel feeling, y’all.
• Final Thoughts: This is such a cute, feminine take on a classic hoodie. The collar/hood gives it extra drama, which is right up my alley, but it’s still a cozy piece for chilly days. Now that I’ve made one Ottobre pattern, I’m definitely interested in trying others. Their fit model seems pretty reliable and they have a nicely modern design aesthetic. Every pattern coming in every size also gives Ottobre a leg up over other sewing magazines, in my book.

Michelle

Ottobre Autumn Warmer – Michelle’s version

• Measurements: High Bust – 42″, Bust –49″, Bra Size – 40H, Waist – 42.5″, Hips – 46″, Height – 5’2″
• Body Shape: My body type is somewhere between a busty hourglass and busty rectangle from the front, but more of a busty apple from the side.
• Pattern size used: 48 – Knowing that Ottobre drafts for a C-cup is, and having seen the built-in FBA in the front pattern piece in the plus size range, I split the difference between my high and full bust to choose my starting size.

Ottobre Autumn Warmer – worn open

• Alterations: Upon a quick tissue fit of my traced pattern pieces, I decided that my knit had enough stretch and that the pattern had enough overlap to skip my usual FBA. I did shorten the sleeve piece by 1″, which is not an unusual alteration for me, given my height and short arms.
• Fabric: A lightweight, drapey sweater knit that I purchased from the now-closed brick-and-mortar location of District Fabrics a little while back.
• Fit: I like the fit, and with the built-in FBA and my stretchy fabric, I didn’t need an additional FBA. So what is the built-in FBA? In the plus size draft, there’s a little extra length in the front side seam that you gather very lightly before sewing to the back side seam, basically giving you the functionality of a bust dart without having to sew a dart in your knit.
  
• Changes for future versions: No fitting changes. I’d like to make it again in a little heavier weight knit for a little warmer version.

Michelle’s imitation of the Ottobre magazine cover with the Autumn Warmer hoodie

Final thoughts: Great little pattern. Quick to trace, quick to cut, quick to sew. It makes a great alternative to a hoodie for running around on the weekend or my casual office.