Same Pattern, Different Bodies: Muna & Broad Glebe Pants

One of the hottest new indie pattern designers in recent months has been Muna and Broad, whose plus-sized focus drafting starts around the sizes where many indie patterns stop. If you’ve been following curvy sewists on Instagram at all, you’ve probably already seen many versions of their initial pattern release–the Glebe pants.

I thought that I already owned plenty of pull-on pant patterns, but upon reading that the Glebe pants are drafted with a full tummy adjustment and high hip fluff adjustment already built in, I was intrigued. And then upon seeing curvy sewist after curvy sewist post their versions with no visible tummy lines, I was sold. After sewing up a quick pair of pajama-pants-as-muslin, I knew that this was money well-spent.

The Glebe pants are drafted for hip sizes 46.5″ (118cm) – 71.5″ (181.5cm). If you fall out of their current size range, contact them, and Leila will grade up the pattern for you.

Andie

 

Measurements: 52″ bust, 48″ waist, 55-57″ hip

Pattern Size: Size 2

Alterations: No alterations. Yes, you read that. No alterations!

 

Fabric: I made my wearable muslin in flannel and my final version in a rayon twill

Fit: Perfect. I love them!

Changes for future version: The only change I want to make is to try to the pleated front version.

Final thoughts: A few years ago, I would never have made so many pairs of pants let alone even one. I love how my style has evolved and can’t wait to wear my rayon twill version once we have nicer weather. I highly recommend this pattern. The whole concept of not needing to make any alterations completely blows my mind.

Kristina

Your Measurements: Bust –44″/112cm, Bra Size – 16DD, Waist – 38-40″/99 cm. Hips – 48-50″/124cm , Height – 5’6″/166 cm

Body Shape: Pear from the front, but more apple from the side at the moment, (I’m a Cider /Perry mix…)

Pattern size used: I initially made size i, as I was concerned about the pants fitting over my hips (the black pair). They ended up being too big, so my second pair (the rust colour) are a size ii, with some alterations.

Alterations: A few (surely the norm with pants fitting?!) After making up my first pair in black linen, I could see I had way to much fabric around the crotch area and too much fabric across my butt (pants fitting really gets to the nitty gritty doesn’t it! ☺) Also the waist was too big. I did a “make it work” alteration on the crotch seam to take out some excess fabric, but short of unpicking the waistband & taking out a whole bunch of fabric from the rise they were always going to be wearable but not quite right. The next version in rust tencel twill was cut a size down to ii. I also graded the inside leg seam to size iii. I took 5 cm/2” off the back, cutting approx. 10cm/5” down from the waistband, and 2 cm/1” off the front piece. This is a high waisted pant, but I preferred it sitting just a bit lower across my belly button. Anything high waisted I wear eventually ends up there anyway!

Fabric: The black linen was from https://www.spotlightstores.com/nz . I was happy to use as I picked it up on sale, experience has taught me pants are VERY unlikely to fit me straight out of the packet. I’m likely to make more linen pants so I wanted to see how they fabric would work, next time I would use a heavier linen. The second version are a gorgeous Tencel sanded Twill from https://studioofsewing.co.nz/product/meetmilk-tencel-sanded-twill-cider/ .The fabric has a glorious drape & feel, perfect for this pattern. I actually intended to make version B with the front pleats, but accidently managed to cut out View A. I spent ages trying to figure out how on earth I was meant to get pleats out of the front piece before looking properly at the labels on the pattern … (View A and LINING for View B, NOT View B itself!)…sigh. Still, I’m happy with the full gathered waistband. I haven’t sewn tencel before, I can see a few wobbles (it is slightly bouncier than linen) but to be honest, hopefully only my Mother will be looking that closely.  

Fit: Version two fit is great, I’m happy with where the pants sit on my waist, the fit across my butt feels good, I don’t have lots of excess fabric while still keeping the feel of a nice swishy wide pair of trousers. If I’m nit-picking I will probably add about a cm back into the back rise, and reconsider my pocket piece. Despite interfacing my pockets, they came out very floppy on version two, so much so I actually sewed them closed. To be honest I don’t actually put anything in my pockets (I’m a bag girl all the way), but I do like the interest they give to a simple pant, so I may go faux pocket next time. 

Changes for future versions: As above, a slight alteration to the back rise on my pattern piece, and possible a cm or two in additional length depending on what shoes I’ll be wearing, otherwise I’m all go, a heavier linen version for autumn, and I’d love to make a lined wool pair for work (WITH the front pleats please) .Also these would make FAB lounge pants in a beautiful rayon or silk (so glam!) 

Final Thoughts This is great basic pant in a huge size range. It’s a reasonably quick sew even for slow pokes like me. A full butt & tummy adjustment is already built in, plus if you take the time to make a muslin, it may only be minor alterations that work for your body & the style you want, to end up with a fantastic basic pant pattern that can be changed up so many ways. 

I purchased the PDF version of this pattern myself, direct from the Muna & Broad website.

Martha

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Measurements: High Bust – 47″, Bust –50″, Bra Size – 42DDD, Waist – 47″, Hips – 61″, Height – 5’6″.

Pattern Size: Size 3

Alterations: My first pair as a tester was done with no alterations besides lengthening the leg 2 inches and I felt they looked great! As I’m learning to really take a closer look at tailoring garments for my curvy body and very full thighs, I thought my pattern would benefit from a knock knee adjustment to remove some excess on the outer leg seam I typically tend to have. Taking a 1 inch wedge on the front and back pattern pieces at the knee so my pants can hang correctly on my body was perfection.

I also opted to create 3 rows in my waistband. Top and bottom rows has elastic and the middle row has a drawstring. Its a RTW feature I’ve seen and this fabric sensed like a good candidate to try something fun.

Fabric: This amazing rayon challis that I scored from FabricMart make these the perfect resort type wear that I can’t easily find in RTW in my size.

Fit: With the adjustments described above, I think it fits perfectly and I now have an amazing pattern for any wide leg that fancies me.

Changes for future version: Absolutely no changes. I can now play with a variety of fabrics to style any occasion.

Final thoughts: Wide leg pants have never been a style I gravitated to because it seemed overwhelming on my curvy frame and it never looked good on me in my opinion. The more I sew, the more I realize that I can open the door a little wider to try styles that seemed “not for me” in another lifetime. I absolutely looovveee these pants. I need to make many more for easy wear and go.

Michelle

Measurements: High Bust – 42″, Bust –47″, Bra Size – 40DD, Waist – 44″, Hips – 47″, Height – 5’2″.

Pattern Size: I sewed a size iii.

Alterations: After getting a fairly good fit straight off the PDF for my muslin, I elected to shorten the the front rise by 1.5″ and the back rise by 1″. These are not unusual alterations at all for me for pants, as most of my “shortness” is below my waist. I also shortened the leg inseam by 2″ to give these more of a “cropped” look on me.

Fabric: For my pajama pant “muslin”, I used a fairly beefy cotton flannel that I’ve had in my stash for a few years, which I’d purchased from FabricMart. For my “good version” (the first of many, I’m sure), I used a 6oz Tencel Twill from Blackbird Fabrics.

Fit: I LOVE the fit through the crotch on these. The crotch curve on this pattern is magic for those of us with tummies.

When I lowered the rise from my muslin to “good” version, it fixed my rise issue, but it ended up highlighting that I need a little more room at the high hip still. That’s an easy enough fix, though!

Changes for future version: I’m going to play with adding some more room at the high hip/high tummy in my next version. Other than that, I think these are looking pretty good.

Final thoughts: I love these pants! Muna and Broad’s new Sculthorpe Pant pattern was released the other day, and I’ve already purchased it and am really looking forward to sewing those up, too.

Sierra

Measurements: Bust—54”, waist—44”, hips—54”, height—5’7”

Pattern Size: Size 1

Alterations: The neon pair have no alterations. The black pair have a 2” cuff added at the hem. The black and tan pair have a shortened piece of elastic for the back waist. The orange pair have a 1” smaller waistband, pleats widened to 1.25”, and a 2” longer hem. The beetroot pair has a 3” longer hem.

Fabric: The neon pair are a roma linen/rayon blend from Stonemountain & Daughter. The black pair are a viscose twill from the Sewing Studio. The black and tan pair are a wool suiting blend from Fine Fabrics. The orange pair is a narrow wale corduroy from Imagine Gnats. The beetroot pair is a viscose twill from Blackbird Fabrics.

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Fit: I love the fit of these pants. Any changes I made to the pattern were for my height and waist measurement. My waist is 2” smaller than the size 1 waist measurement. That only matter with the pleated front view because the fully elastic waisted version is a bit more flexible.

Changes for future version: At this point I don’t have any additional changes to make.

Final thoughts: I absolutely adore these pants. I wear them ALL the time. They have extended my wardrobe in the most delightful way. I feel great in each version of these pants.