Same Pattern, Different Bodies: Cashmerette Pembroke Dress and Tunic

Cashmerette Patterns released a new pattern–the Pembroke dress and Tunic at the end of 2018, and it’s already been a big hit with curvy sewists. I can’t remember the last pattern where so many CSC regulars had already made their versions within a month or so of the initial release.

The versatile Pembroke has a lot of reasons to be popular, including options for a midi dress or tunic, with or without ties, three neckline options, and three sleeve options. The Pembroke is available in sizes up to a 28G/H cup–58″/147cm bust and 58″/147cm hip.

Jennifer

• Measurements:  48-44-54, 5’6″
• Body Shape: Apple
• Pattern size used: 22e/f, graded to 24 at waist and hip
• Alterations: None!

• Fabric: My first version was made in a double knit that purported to be a ponte but feels more like a looser sweater knit. It’s pretty thin — kind of like a medium weight jersey with a nice drape. 
  
  I loved my wearable muslin Pembroke so much that I made a second version in a shorter length. That fabric had minimal stretch, and I probably should have given myself a little wiggle room in the turtleneck. But overall, this pattern is a clear winner for me! 

• Fit: I have a very straight hip curve, which means all my curves are on the front and back of my body. I found the curves of the Pembroke to be too extreme for my body type, so I just flattened out the side seam curves from the waist notch to about six inches below the hip notch and that did the trick! Looking at my wearable muslin, I should have curved the hem more — it’s pulling up in the front and sagging at the side seam — I’m pretty sure that is because of my hip tweak at the end. Something to watch for next time! 

• Changes for future versions: I’m eager to make a sweater dress from the Pembroke pattern. I prefer a dress that hits right at my knees, so I’ll split the difference between the tunic and the midi length.
• Final Thoughts: I think this pattern has a similar fit to the Hey June Union St. Tee — a relaxed t-shirt style (although with lots of other options for winter wear!). If you like the look of the Union St. Tee but were outside of the size range, give the Pembroke a try.

Kristina

• Measurements:  Bust –44″, Bra Size – 16DD, Waist – 38-40″ . Hips – 48-50″, Height – 5’6″
• Body Shape: Pear-ish? Busty with a short waist, and lush hips & thighs. Actually I eat a lot of dairy, I’m a nice curvy milk bottle!
• Pattern size used: I cut a 16 Bust graded to a 20 waist & hips. I have made a few Cashmerette patterns, in a woven I would probably go 16-18, but I didn’t want to risk the “sausage” effect of too tight knit. Also the dress was for Xmas day, no one wants anything too tight for that.
• Alterations: I made the scoop neck on both versions, with mid length cuffed sleeves. I cut 5 cm (approx. 2 inches) off the sleeves before adding my cuffs, to make them sit just on my elbow. I have a 16 inch bicep so it was lovely to have my sleeves fit out of the packet with no full bicep adjustment needed. The neckline on the tunic is probably more scooped than it should be as I had a major brain explosion attaching the neckline binding & did it around the wrong way. Rather than unpick (??!), I cut the offending binding off & attached a new one.

• Fabric: A soft rayon knit, really lovely to wear & perfect for this pattern in warm weather.
• Fit: Really pleased with the all over fit, especially around the bust. The knit makes it super comfy, but I think the neckline binding & sleeve cuff makes it that bit smarter. I’ve added the ties on both versions, I’m short-waisted, so I really like to be able to gather the fabric in at my narrowest part, and I think it’s a really nice design feature.
• Changes for future versions: I’m keen to make a cooler weather version, minus ties and with a higher jewel neckline & long sleeves, perfect for the long winter walks I talk about going on…and the Sewing/Netflix marathons I actually achieve!
• Final Thoughts: For me this pattern is a winner, It looks great, I like the details, it’s a reasonably quick sew & works for both warm & cool weather, yay!

Meg

• Measurements:  43″ bust, 38″ waist 46″ hip
• Body Shape: Pearish? with a belly? 
• Pattern size used: 16 C/D
• Alterations: On the 3/4 sleeves, I hemmed them instead of using the cuffs provided, just personal preference.
• Fabric: For my first Pembroke, the dress version, I used a cotton pique for a springy/summery take. For my turtleneck tunic version I used a thick rayon/poly/lycra fleece-y fabric.

• Fit: I’m quite happy with the fit! The fleece version is a much closer fit than the pique version, purely due to the fabric, but they both fit well through the shoulders and hips.
• Changes for future versions: When I make the tie version again, I am considering having the ties coming from the center back rather than the side seams. I find the dress is a little bit of a reverse mullet… party in the front. The ties pull a smidge in the back; I wish I had the ties to cover some of my back fluff.
  
  I’d also like to cut a shorter version of the tunic, cut to high hip length. Basically I want a Pembroke Top to complete my collection! I think it would make a fabulous winter sweater to wear with jeans

• Final Thoughts: I really love this pattern! I think it’s elegant in its simplicity and incredibly versatile. It obviously works well in a variety of fabrics, too. So many options!

Michelle

• Measurements: High Bust – 42″, Bust –49″, Bra Size – 40H, Waist – 42.5″, Hips – 46″, Height – 5’2″
• Body Shape: My body type is somewhere between a busty hourglass and busty rectangle from the front, but more of a busty apple from the side.
• Pattern size used: I started with a size 18G/H and blended to a 20G/H below the armscye and used that from the bust on down.

• Alterations: For the dress version, I shortened the skirt by ~4″ on the lengthen/shorten line to keep the dress true to a midi-length.
• Fabric: I made the purple striped dress using a bamboo-lycra that I purchased from Portland’s Mill End last spring. I made the cerulean top from a bamboo-lycra French Terry that I purchased from Imagine Gnats last year.

• Fit: I love the fit. I think the fit through the front is great, and frankly, I love how my booty looks in the dress version.
• Changes for future versions: I do like Meg’s idea of extending the ties around the back because, as she points out, unforgiving fabric does show a bit of back fat, but that’s also one of those things that I’ve accepted will show on any fitted bodices on myself. I’ll have to decide if it bothers me enough to mess around with.
• Final Thoughts: I love looking through everyone’s different versions of the Pembroke and seeing how versatile it is in terms of seasonal options/looks and how great it’s looked on various body types. It’s a definite winner for me.

Sierra

• Measurements: Bust 53.5 in,  waist 43.5 in, hips, 54 in
• Body Shape: Hourglass-ish
• Pattern size used: 22 G/H
• Alterations: None for the first version. I shortened the second version to just below the hip notch.

• Fabric: The tunic version is a dusty rose French terry from Boho Fabrics and the top version is a melange Jersey rib knit from D & H Fabrics.
• Fit: I love the fit. It’s more fitted in the upper body and flows over the lower body. It’s a great layering piece that I keep reaching for.

• Changes for future versions: I would like to try the midi dress with a cowl neck and experiment with some printed fabric.
• Final Thoughts: I can tell that this is going to be a pattern that I make over and over again. I can’t wait to make a warm weather version this spring.

Megan 

• Measurements:  45″ bust, 41″ waist 52″ hip
• Body Shape: Representing team pear!
• Pattern size used: 18 C/D bust, 20 waist, 22 hips
• Alterations: I cut the length between the tunic and dress length. I wanted to be able  to wear it with leggings. I hemmed the sleeves instead of using a the cuff. I cut the high neckline then slightly modified it to be a bit more boat-neck shaped. This pattern is great for hacking and personalizing!
• Fabric: A liverpool knit from LA Finch Fabrics. I’m still looking for the perfect fabric to make this type of tunic from, this is a little too static-y but it has nice body and does stand away from the body nicely. I’m thinking I’ll try a cotton jersey next time. 

• Fit: I having been trying to hack t-shit patterns into a dress design like this for ages, without much luck! Its really hard to get a pattern like this to fit well when your body spans three sizes, like mine does. This pattern fits amazingly!! To have something fitted through the bust and shoulders but also have positive ease through the hips is amazing to me. I will be making so many more versions of this. 
• Changes for future versions: I’d like to make every version of this pattern, and also maybe make some T-shirts with this relaxed fit as well. Its is so perfect for my everyday life! I’m really happy with the fit, so I won’t mess with anything there. 

Pembroke Discount

Jenny from Cashmerette has generously decided to offer a discount to CSC readers for the Pembroke pattern. Enter the following discount code at checkout on the Cashmerette online store to receive 15% off of all things Pembroke–the paper or PDF pattern and all in-stock Pembroke kits: CSCPEMBROKE

The discount is valid through February 5, 2019.