Same Pattern, Different Bodies: By Hand London Tamzin Dress

Today we’re reviewing the Tamzin Dress from By Hand London, in their new size range (up to a UK 34/US30 in a D Cup)! If you’ve ever wondered what the Tamzin looks like on a plus size body, here’s your change to find out.

Here’s how BHL describe their dress: “Tamzin is the quintessential folk dress that will have you twirling through summer year after year! Featuring an ornamental square neckline, princess seams, two different waist tie options, full 3/4 length sleeves and a gathered skirt – both with a satisfying tuck detail. Even better, the neckline is finished with an external facing, so you can have all the fun in the world experimenting with embroidery or beading to create a beautifully embellished neckline.”

Over to our reviewers!

Alex

Measurements: I’m 5’8″. High bust 42″, bust 48″, waist 43″, hips 51-53.″

Body type/shape: A pear-apple? Most of my weight is in my stomach and butt/thighs. So from the front, I tend to look smaller than I am or from the side. This also means that I need to do most pattern adjusting below the waist and that the gathered skirt of the Tamzin eliminates any fitting there.

Pattern Size: I made Version 2 in size 18/22 in the 16-34 D cup range

Alterations: None in terms of fit adjustments (which blew my mind), but I did considerably shorten the skirt to 17 3/8 inches before pleating to make this top. I hemmed the skirt/peplum with self-fabric bias binding to preserve length. I’m not wearing dresses often, and my stash reflects that with lengths of fabric 3 yards or less.

Fabric: A cotton gingham homespun that was rescued from a family member’s stash purge last year. It’s soft but still has enough structure to support the puff sleeves, all the gathers, and the pleats.

Fit: The fit is surprisingly good for me. Traditionally, I have to shorten the waist of bodices, do forward shoulder and swayback adjustments. I generally need to do FBA on most patterns. But, I toiled the bodice and one sleeve out of muslin, and there were no fit issues, or they were so minimal I opted to ignore them. Here are my muslin pics:

Changes for future versions: If I make this again, I’d like to try it in a softer fabric with more drape to make the pouf factor less extreme. I may even try it full length too.

Final Thoughts: The Tamzin is well-drafted, but it is a fabric hog (nearly 5.5 yards of 45″ fabric), which means it probably won’t become a TNT pattern that I make multiple times. I sewed the whole thing on my sewing machine, except the hem binding I chose to do by hand, and I took my time on this project (15 days from printing to photos). Something to consider if you plan to print this at home is that the skirt panels are large. I wish they had been given as measurements by size and that there was a single pattern piece that marked the pleat distances to save on paper when sticking the whole thing together.

FLORENCE

Measurements: I’m 5’6″. Bust 53.75″, waist 49″, hips 60″

Pattern Size: I made a size 26 D cup graded to size 28 at the hips. It’s been my go blending  method to allow room for my “apron/fupa “.

Alterations:  Skipped the skirt pintucks to get a maxi & more flowly look. 

Fabric:  Bodice is in quilting cotton woven and skirt is in rayon twill. 

Fit: I love it! I can slip it right over my head. No need for pesky body shapers and just feels great overall.

Changes for future version: I will doing the skirt pintucks and probably shorten the skirt to get it at a midi length. 

Final Thoughts: I really like the version with the tie in the back, it flattering and makes my waist look “snatched”.