Same Pattern, Different Bodies: By Hand London Anna Dress

When indie darlings By Hand London expanded into plus sizes, there were lots of curvy sewists excited about the prospect of pretty party dresses in a more inclusive size range!

The Anna Dress is one of BHL’s most popular dresses, and it’s not hard to see why – it’s a versatile dress with slash or v-neck options, midi or maxi skirts (with a dramatic thigh high split!), and cut-on sleeves. I’ve seen awesome versions as a day dress or a show-stopping evening number – but what is it like in the new plus size range, which goes to a UK 34 / US 30 in a D cup? Over to our reviewers to find out!

JENNY

I’m Jenny and I’m a lazy-but-addicted sewist.  My husband and I are empty-nesters; we don’t have overlapping hobbies which means I get all the time I want to spend on sewing while he’s off making YouTube videos about (shudder) horror movies.  I work a pretty intense CFO-type job and live for bargain fabric shopping & power sewing through my stash.  During the pandemic, I’ve twice sewn through everything I had (well, maybe a few things I later regretted buying were still left, but that’s it).  On a good week, I’ll make 6 dresses.  My daughters get my hand-me-downs and they’re pretty happy about that.  But this dress – the Anna by  By Hand London – they won’t be getting their hands on this one.  It’s practically perfect in every way.

What size did you make?  I made a blended size:  22 bust to 28 hip.  I made both the midi and maxi version.  The midi was too short (more like knee length for my 5’6” frame); while the maxi was too long (I had to lop off a good 6” to walk in this one).  No other adjustments.

What are your measurements, height, and body type?  I’m 5’6” tall.  I have a full set of hips, and DD bust (bra size, not sewing size).  High bust: 47, Bust 52, Waist 48, Hips 61.  You’ll notice on my photos I always put my most current measurements, so they vary a bit from picture to picture because my body also varies over time. 🙂

What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? No adjustments excepting altering the length on the maxi after it was made.  Cutting off 6” before hemming took a couple minutes.

What fabric did you use? My midi was from a midweight stretch poplin (denim look) from a Fine Fabrics in Georgia.  https://finefabricsusa.com/

My maxi was from a Telio stretch satin from Fabric.com. https://www.fabric.com/buy/0562950/telio-kimono-stretch-satin-print-purses-black

What was the construction process like?  Did the instructions make sense to you? This was very straight forward.  The pleated bodice was an easy and attractive feature.  The most fiddly bit for me was the long slit in the maxi-skirt version – and that wasn’t very fiddly. 

How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape? Yep, this dress was basically drafted for me (excepting for the length).  I’m a pretty pear-shaped person overall, but with an ample bust.  The bodice accented (but didn’t expose) my bosom; the skirt showed off my hips to great effect.  I also have amazing legs (yep, that’s quite some ego I have, right?) and the thigh-high slit told exactly the story I wanted it to.  On my first make (the midi), I wasn’t as careful about seam allowances as I should have been which meant I had to fiddle a bit to make the skirt & bodice match up; once I realized that, uh, seam allowances matter, it was no problem to put together my maxi dress.  

Will you make the pattern again?  If so, what fit or design changes will you make? Yes, please.  I’ve made two in quick succession and have fabric for at least three more.  I’m planning a longer midi version with a slit – and I’m excited as heck about it!  No changes for me excepting the length of the skirt on the midi.

Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?  If you like this silhouette, drop everything and make this dress

My pattern rating:

Size range (1 – 5):  3.  It’s a good range – it’s uncommon that my hip size isn’t the largest, or even beyond the largest, available size.  However, there’s a lot of room for improvement. 

Instructions (1-5): 5. Loved these instructions.  Super clear for me.  I had no issues following them.  I do always read the instructions through once before I start sewing to maximize the odds that I’ll be successful.  I’ve been sewing for 35+ years but still make silly mistakes when I skip this step. 

Construction process (1-5): 5.I love any pattern that doesn’t use a bust dart but still give my chestal appendages room to breathe.  I’m a very lazy sewist so the more fiddle the construction process the more likely I am to skip steps or make my own path to final construction.  I didn’t feel the need to change anything up here.

Final fit (1-5): 5. The pleated bodice is giving me life.  The skirt is full but not in a way that leaves me feeling like a fairy princess sitting on a toadstool.  The fit was perfect for my frame and figure.

Overall Rating (1-5):  4.5. The only things I’d change here are the size range – bigger hips, please! – and the length of the midi and maxi skirts.  Since I’m 5’6” I typically find the length on drafted skirts by independent designs is really made directly for my height; it’s weird for me when that isn’t the case.

I’d never heard of By Hand London until I saw another curvy sewist post a photo in this dress.  I knew it was something that would likely flatter me – if it came in my size … and since it did, I immediately began making my own versions.  I have another three in my brainbox just waiting to be sewn.  Interested in seeing what else I’m up to?  Check me out on Instagram at www.instagram.com/johassler or on my blog at www.sewjenny.com

FLORENCE

Check out Florence’s awesome makes on Instagram @ftmom3

Measurements: I’m 5’6″. Bust 53.75″, waist 49″, hips 60″

Pattern Size: I made a size 26 D cup graded to size 28 at the hips. It’s been my go blending  method to allow room for my “apron/fupa “.

Alterations:  None

Fabric:  Bodice is in Quilting cotton denim woven.

Fit: I love it! I can slip it right over my head but love the zipper feature. I’m in love with the front pleats and think it’s super flattering and feminine.

Changes for future version: I will doing the maxi skirt with slit next for the “wow” experience lol.

Final Thoughts: I love the entire look, the ease of the construction,  the sew, the way it twirls and the pleats and darts offering a flattering silhouette.  I would make many versions of this in various fabric bases for fun.