Seven and a half months after the birth of my daughter, I have nothing to wear. I finally retired my maternity clothes, and the two pairs of jeans I purchased post-pregnancy inch down my butt as I walk around, threatening to be a “wardrobe malfunction” that I just don’t want to experience. I’ve sewn since I was a pre-teenager, back when New Kids on the Block really did have a bunch of hits and I took voice training lessons because I wanted to be the next Debbie Gibson or Tiffany.
Wait, I digress. Perhaps I do so because it’s easier to write about the good old days when I could simply walk in a store, pick something off the rack, and have it fit. The days when I could pull out a sewing pattern, cut the pattern out, and whip it up – maybe even taking in the waist a bunch and probably making the hem shorter. Now, shopping is irritating, depressing, annoying, infuriating and, well, a nasty chore that I dread. I had my son at 20, and went from being so flat that you could nail me to a board from tip to toe to having curves for the first time in my life. As time went on, 15 years passed, and I had my daughter. Now, I have curves and a mommy belly.
So you see, shopping, when your waist is one size, your hips are another size, and the skin that chills out between the two post-baby is a third size, can be tear-inducing. Add to it the fact that I’m 5’9” tall, sleep deprived, and shopping with a husband, teenage boy, and infant with her own agenda (i.e. she wants to eat, play, and investigate everything), and you can see why it’s easy to wind up crying in the dressing room holding three pairs of pants, in three different sizes, wondering why no one thinks to make a post-partum line of clothing.
I get home from such a trip, and wander into our home office/sewing room. The brand new machine my husband bought me sits on a desk, waiting to be used. I have a closet full (did I say full? I mean overstuffed) with fabric of various yardages. It occurs to me that a far less frustrating experience would be to simply make clothes for myself (and not just Baby Girl).
The first step, I think, in any endeavor that involves significant time or money investment, is planning. I don’t want to spend a ton of time on a wardrobe that won’t work for me and my body. I mean, the point is to have clothes I can wear every day that make me feel good. The point is to get out of my pajamas (Did I mention I live in my pajamas, because I have 2 pairs of pants and half a dozen acceptable shirts to wear in public shirts?) and into some real clothes.
I have two books that have been my go-to reference manuals when it comes to wardrobe planning. The Lucky Shopping Manual and The Pocket Stylist. The first of these two books has lists of “essential” parts of a complete wardrobe. I’ll be using this as a guide for the pieces I will need for a starter wardrobe (types and how many skirts, dresses, etc.). The Pocket Stylist is a great reference in that it talks about the right shapes and fabrics for body type, there are the author’s own thoughts about essential pieces, and there’s a lot of talk about proper fit.
The very first thing I did was go through the two books and create an outline of recommendations. For each wardrobe element – skirt, dress, tops, t-shirts, etc. I created a page in Evernote that had some examples of what cuts would look good on my post-second-baby body. From there, I created a list for each pattern company of sewing patterns that were in the cuts, drapes, and styles appropriate to my shape – and I ensured that the list made a complete wardrobe according to the first book’s recommendations. Yes, I realize that’s a lot of work.
Next, I was lucky, because Joann’s fabrics put all four major sewing companies’ patterns on sale right around the time I did this. My husband took me pattern shopping – and pattern shopping we did. We bought Vogue, McCall’s, Butterick, and Simplicity patterns. We even picked up a few from New Look and See & Sew that my husband saw and said “Hey, this matches what you’re looking for.” In all, we perhaps went a bit overboard, buying a significant number of patterns.
My next step was to catalog the patterns we purchased, and to measure and catalog the fabric. I did this using OneNote. My philosophy in doing so was threefold:
- I had no clue what yardages of fabric I had, since much of the fabric in my stash was purchased more than 10 years ago.
- I don’t want to purchase duplicate patterns.
- I want to be able to search for fabric type, yardage, etc. easily without having to dig through my pattern stash.
For each pattern, I copied and pasted an image of each view on a separate page, along with pattern back information. For the size, I noted the amount of fabric needed, any lining fabric or interfacing that would be needed, notions, and fabric type recommendations. I also cut and pasted a few “sample” fabrics I thought would look nice for each pattern. That way, when going through the fabric stash, I could match fabrics to patterns more easily.
For the fabric stash, I carefully measured each piece, noted down width and yardage, and made my best guess at fabric type. I’ve also managed to pick up some cute things at thrift stores around town.
For my next step, I’ll start pairing fabrics and patterns. And yes, I even plan to sew a few more pairs of jeans, though, I think I’ll begin with skirts because they’re easy and because it’s in the upper 90s and 100s where I live.
What recommendations do you have for planning a new wardrobe from scratch, post-baby?
Sweet lady, I just stumbled across your blog and I hear you on all fronts. Not because of a post baby body but I am three years out of post breast cancer with only one boob and a much different body than I had before. So much of what you write is true for me too. I just want to look good and not unbalanced. I’ve sewn all my life so it’s time for me to use my skills for my own self esteem. Keep on blogging, I’m all eyes!
HUGS to you! I’d be interested in learning what you do with your sewing.
And here I was thinking I was the only one struggling with the post-partum wardrobe. My problem is ‘t only my changed size, but the fact that the stuff that I wore before and I can still fit into isn’t my thing. Never has been, I don’t know why I wore them. I did the Colette Wardrobe thing but in the end I found it got long and tedious and it didn’t work. I also didn’t like every single post about wardrobe planning I came across because they either tell you to buy 10 essential items of which 9 don’t suit me or they tell you to work with the wardrobe you have, which I don’t. I did however really like this post http://www.puttingmetogether.com/p/wardrobe-from-scratch-series.html as it starts from scratch but based on what you really need.
What i finally realised is that I really liked the silhouettes I wore in college (dresses fitted at the waist with cardigans and slouchy boots) and somehow I stopped wearing those because I didn’t know how to sew woven dresses 🙂 So I plan on fixing that and going bzck to a style I felt good in.
If I have to recommend post-partum wear I’d suggest dresses like the Colette Myrtle (although. Find a Big4 that matches because Myrtle isn’t worth it) or Sewaholic Yaletown, dresses which are a little bit blousy but have a fitted elastic waist, I found that it shows off my waist (or what’s left of it anyway) but the skirt fabric skims over my mommy belly.
And if you’re suffering from thighs rubbing together (I’ve had that since I was 18 and it didn’t get any better) I recently bought Bandelettes after I read a post about them and found they were great to replace the shorts and leggings I always wore underneath my dresses!
Above all enjoy the baby, my girl is 7 months and she’s my everything! And while I have a great husband, he’d never take me shopping so you’re lucky 🙂
Thanks for the link to the planning page! My daughter turned 8 months today. She loves to explore everything. They’re great little people! 🙂
Short term: skirts and camisoles (do one in a bias) are good pieces. Long term: learn how to make your own jeans. Pants are the worst in the stores, many tears there for me (and my Scarlett O’Hara “I’ll never buy retail again!” fist shaking moment). I have learned so much about what fits, what looks good and what I like to wear in pants from making jeans. It is addictive, I’ll warn you.
You’ve got this planned out, just cut yourself some slack and go at this piece by piece as needed.
Hey, and enjoy that baby! Baby head smell nostalgia!
Baby head smell rocks 🙂
I think my entire wardrobe was flowing skirts for about a year.
Skirts are great that way. I really learned how much I loved them while I was pregnant. I lived in skirts and dresses.
I really do know what you’re talking about here! For the first year after the birth of my third child, I wore two pairs of stretchy black trousers in rotation because nothing else fitted/looked nice. I got very fed up with them, needless to say. Childbirth affected my body in a very similar way to yours and I struggled with how to dress my new shape. I love the approach you’ve taken. You’re using stuff you already have (fabric) while still having some fun (choosing and buying patterns). Yes you have put some effort in but I think it’s worth it. When did anything ever happen without effort! Your work shows in the patterns you’ve selected. They look an ideal blend of feminine and practical. I wish I had done something like this for myself at a time I really could have done with some attention! I will be cheering on your progress from the sidelines.
I like feminine and practical, that’s for sure. It’s nice to feel all flirty for my husband while being able to keep up with a crazy-mobile 8 month old 🙂
I bow down before your organizational prowess! Go get ’em. You are on your way. They only thing I can think of is seconding the idea that knits are your friend (mine, too).
🙂 My first three projects are with knit fabrics.
Before you jump all the way onto someone else’s bandwagon as to which pieces you must have in your wardrobe, first analyze yourself as to what roles do you need to fill? Do you need clotes to wear to an office or to work? Do you need clothes to wear at home and to PTO/teacher’s meetings for teenager and for playgroup for the baby? (i.e. how dressy or how casual do you need your clothes to be?)
If you can take a class on fitting somewhere (sewing store, dressmaker who teaches classes, sewing show) that might help you figure out how to fit yourself.
I highly recommend the Palmer/Pletsh books Fit for Real People and Pants for Real People. I don’t tissue fit my pattern tissue because I like to save the pattern to re-use. I trace the pattern onto alpha-numeric pattern paper, then make a muslin from Pellon Tru-grid. Typically I need to do a Full-Bust Adjustment, maybe narrow shoulders, accommodate belly and waist.
I also highly recommend Palmer/Pletsch patterns for McCalls — adjustment lines are printed on the pattern & how to alter is included in the instructions (check the envelope copy to make sure which alterations are included)
For my son’s wedding in our backyard, I made the Palmer/Pletsch McCall’s pattern 6750 – the 3-hour Perfect Shirt. It took me longer than 3 hours but looked GREAT! The pattern had adjustment lines on the pattern for the most common adjustments and the pattern instructions included how-to alter for those!! So, from high bust measurement (above bust under arms) I made a much smaller size than my bust measurement would have indicated — so the pattern fit in the neck and shoulders!!. Then I did a full-bust adjustment. I also altered for full upper arm. It was the best fitting thing I’ve sewn in a long time. Much compliments from hubby and from wedding guests (general OMG you made that!!)
I also love KwikSew patterns because all the sizes are included and you can trace off what you need, blending sizes as needed. KwikSew pants happen to fit me well.
I meet with clients and so I do wear suits when I do that…I always dress up for date night…makeup, jewelry, heels, the works…and even at home when I get out of my PJs…I tend to go with business casual type clothing (it makes me feel more professional when working from home). I do wear jeans and t-shirts a good bit too…I’m a big fan of lists (You should see my constant list system for everything going on in my life) because since I’m so busy with baby and teenager and husband and client work/freelancing/my own blogs/housework…(I’m getting tired now LOL) I tend to forget things if they aren’t written down. 😛
I would love to take fitting classes… it’s just a matter of both finding the time and the funds and having those two things overlap. 🙂
I’ll give Kwik Sew a try, I have a couple patterns from them leftover from my teenage years (with the all-in one sizing) that are still cute and appealing to me (And they were never cut into LOL). i was looking at them for undergarments as well…
I’m excited.
Are you still breast feeding? If so, I’d be sure to make blouses that open in the front.
I hear your frustration with a body that fits too many sizes. My body has a sway back, a B cup size, hips that are 2 sizes bigger than my waist and full thighs. If I am making pants or a skirt, I test the pattern and my alterations on a less expensive but similar draping fabric. I have found that I need to rip and resew several times to get the alterations right. If things work out I might have a “wearable” muslin. I highly recommend this practice as it has saved me much heartbreak.
I have found that cotton wovens are cooler than cotton knits – when the body sweats, knits tend to cling more. Therefore, I would concentrate on sewing woven pants, skirts and shorts prior to sewing knitted ones.
I like your matching / organizing with OneNote. I will have to look into it.
The hardest sewing is sewing for yourself. Use your mirror to determine fit, and if you can rig up a three-way mirror so that you can see your back is even better. Your husband seems very helpful, maybe he can help with the pinning for fit and hems? If not, maybe a girlfriend can?
Unfortunately, I had to stop breastfeeding after 5 months b/c my supply vanished. (That was really rough).
As for my husbnad, hehe, I’m sure he would sit there and help pin for fit and hems if I asked him to. He’s just awesome like that.
20 years after I stopped nursing, I still opt for front-closing styles and pull-over blouses — when I achieve Old Age status, it’ll be nice to still be able to dress myself. (Also, since Dear Husband travels for a living, he’s rarely there to zip or button up the back for me.) Elastic waists are not to be sneered at, either, for shape-shifting bodies. You may perhaps still wish to wear blouses untucked, and long tunics over slim pants and skirts — sometimes I have to leave my skirts unfastened at the waist, under my blouse, because that day is a day that my waist decides to take a vacation for a few hours. Wear fabrics and colors that make you feel pretty. Any color that a stranger tells you looks good on you, unsolicited, is probably a color that will make you feel pretty. Wear textures that make you happy. Stay with natural fibers for a hot climate, they breathe more easily and wash nicely without retaining odors. That’s enough advice from here for this posting, lol.
Such careful planning! This will become a really nice wardrobe. If you’re looking for a quick wardrobe fix I’d recommend the Mabel skirt. You can easily sew one up during your daughter’s afternoon nap!
I’ve been eyeing the Mable skirt and it’s on my to-buy list of patterns. 🙂 I love the way it’s looked on everyone whose tested it.
Just read you’re a freelance writer and editor, so am I! Mabel serves as secret pyama while writing at home, for meetings with customers I just add a jacket. Love the versatility 🙂
Awesome!
I recommend the Wardrobe Architect from Collette Patterns. She has some good, practical ideas:
http://www.coletterie.com/wardrobe-architect/introducing-the-wardrobe-architect
Yes! I love her. It’s sort of what inspired me to go through with such a large undertaking!
You look like you’ve got this totally under control! I’ll add a few “lessons learned” tips, though:
* I agree with Faustina–with an infant daughter, you definitely want to make clothes that are machine washable, can hide stains, etc.
* Every outfit you make should have at least one usable pocket somewhere. I always liked pockets but never had an idea how outright *important* they are until I had a kid. If you want to make something that doesn’t have pockets, add them from another pattern.
* Knits are your friend.
Thanks for the tips! 🙂
Let me just start by mentioning what a supportive husband you have, lucky you!
Now, I do find myself in a very similar situation and I don’t even have a baby excuse. I have recently (past 2-3 years) gained some weight, a couple of sizes and a lot of fitting issues. Nothing fits anymore, at least not the way I like. And I totally understand the disappointment and frustration of clothes shopping (hugs). I have been trying to plan my own wardrobe also, although you are way more organized about it than me.
However, there are a couple of things I wanted to suggest. First, I didn’t even start losing my baby weight until my daughter was about 10 months old (that was years ago though). Wait to start making your perfectly fitted garments until she starts walking, you will be a busy momma. Perhaps start by making a couple of outfits that can slim down with you – a wrap dress or a wrap skirt perhaps, I think one of the patterns you chose is a great wrap dress with an a-line skirt option. Also, add an outfit or two using knits – they are way more forgiving and do not require as much fitting. Once you make a couple of outfits, you will feel way better about your wardrobe options and it really helps to gain the confidence to move onto more complicated projects.
Craftsy has a big sale on classes right now, and I would recommend taking “Patternmaking Basics: The Skirt Sloper” for only $19.99 vs regular $69.99 (!!!) and Sewing with Knits at 50% off ($19.99). I am not trying to promote Craftsy, but I have taken some classes before and I know they help a lot, and these two would be a great start to help creating that basic wardrobe foundation. You would be able to make any skirt by making your own skirt block using only three measurements and it will be your own master pattern and a few variations, including facings, linings and adjustments for knits.
You have a great foundation for making your own awesome wardrobe!
Luckily, I have a bunch of knits in my fabric stash 🙂 😛 I found the blue that’s in the image above underneath the Vogue pattern at a thrift store for 50 cents. It’s a spandex stretch fabric. Patternmaking would be a lot of fun – I’d love to check out some of those classes.
You are a woman after my own heart. You are my idol. I forsee an adventure into One Note in my future.
Awww, thanks! I love OneNote – I used it in grad school to organize all my projects…and I use it all the time for work (I’m a freelance writer & editor) to track all my projects and clients.
I think you have it!! I would recommend: simple and mixable. I found out when I was pregnant that it was great to have just a few “nice” clothes instead of a closet full of okay clothes. After my baby (21 years ago), I pared down to just a few of each item and wear them to death. Then I want the exact same thing when I go to buy new clothes. LOL This method works great, but you do have to do your laundry often. I just started back sewing for myself and my plus size body and have been overwhelmed with all the great fabrics and the ease of purchasing them online so I overdid it and now have lots of stuff that really does not go along with the simple theory. So I am going to try again and do my fall and winter wardrobe with this in mind. Your ideas about organization will really help with that. Thanks for posting and good luck!
PS Every time I think about how much my body has changed, I remember that it is because it provided a home for a person, a real live person. Many pics you see of skinny people and models did not do that.
Please accept yourself as you are and only focus on getting healthy for you and your family to have a happy life. Best of luck in this season of your life!!
YES! I try to always keep in mind that my tummy was a home for two of my three favorite people in the world. (My third being my husband)
I love your organizational planning. I can’t wait to see what you come up with. Make sure to keep us “in the loop” as you revisit your sewing machine. Good luck!
I’m itching to get started. 🙂 I have a couple of “for the kids” projects to wrap up, and then i’m cutting some fabric!
Oh wow! I have no suggestions. Absolutely nothing. You look like you have it all under control, though! At 53 I am learning to sew my own wardrobe. I’ve got a long way to go. And hey! I bought the McCalls 6959 too! I held the bodice up to myself and then put it back into the package. I can’t see how that is going to cover me at all. I hope you blog about it as you sew it…I really want to make it (even bought the fabric!) but it intimidates me.
Oh wow! I have no suggestions. Absolutely nothing. You look like you have it all under control, though! At 53 I am learning to sew my own wardrobe. I’ve got a long way to go. And hey! I bought the McCalls 6959 too! I held the bodice up to myself and then put it back into the package. I can’t see how that is going to cover me at all. I hope you blog about it as you sew it…I really want to make it (even bought the fabric!) but it intimidates me.
Yes! I love that pattern – and I love V-necks. I tame them when it’s not date night with my husband by wearing a camisole underneath 🙂 I think when I sew this pattern up, to rein the girls in, I’ll probably figure out some sort of hook and eye closure strategy. My daughter has a couple of wrap-style rompers/pjs that have snaps where the underneath part meets the area under the armpit of the piece that goes across the top.
Wow…you are so organized , I am so impressed. Some beautiful patterns and fabrics.
I so feel your pain, of the changing body and the lack of fit for rtw clothes. I was fortunate,
that when I had my kids ,my body went back to before.. But, when I began to get older
[I am now 59], everything changed.. The weight came on, and the shape changed,ha.
I have sewed all my life, but mainly for my children and grandchildren..Sewing for an
old body is really difficult. I have been taking Craftsy classes on fitting, trying to learn
to fit my “new body”.lol
I think you are on the right track with your new wardrobe planning. The skirts are a great idea.
Love the patterns you picked out.. so pretty..Can’t wait to see what you sew..Have fun.
I’ve thought about taking some Craftsy classes. After I had my son…when I was 20…my body changed in a lot of ways that a body does when you go from being an underweight 20 year old to a very pregnant 20 year old who gains 92 pounds – and delivers a 9lb 11oz boy at the end of it all. I started sewing things after having him so that I could have some things that fit better, but then I got busy being a single mom, working, and going to school.
I think everyone has their own spots that are difficult to fit. 🙂 The wardobe planning is a lot of fun, and over the past year, I learned that I really like skirts and dresses. Not only are they feminine, but they really work well with a curvy body.
Choose fabrics that wash and dry easily.
Oh definitely! I cannot tell you how many times that has been a factor in what I wear each day.
I’m so impressed by your organization and methodical approach! I think a great wardrobe is coming your way…
Thanks! I’m super…neurotic…when it comes to taking on large projects. The organization really helps me to stay motivated, and inspired.