Out of Alberta!
After reading the fabulous post by Pearl Moon about Lagenlook, I thought that I would follow up with some reviews of garments that I have made in this style. I have played around with the layered look for quite some time – wool trousers, vest (Colette Sorbetto) top, longline cardigan with shaped hems – and this works great for the winter, but what about summer?
Through Artisan’s Square I came across a Lagenlook thread, and the name Tina Givens came up. Tina has her own pattern line as well as producing a collection of Couture/Ready to Wear clothes. She describes her style as ‘Out of Africa meets the 1920’s’ (my favorite fashion era) so that was it – I was off!
I started off with the Jaqueline Pattern which consists of a pair of loose fitting cropped trousers, a longline slip and a boxy top and I’d like to talk to you about the slip today.
I made a muslin of the slip first, out of some drapey woven rayon. The pattern is ridiculously easy to make – back, front and bindings, but the fit was not too good. I am not sure whether this is my issue or the pattern and I had to add two small darts on the front piece, arm openings to take out the excess fabric. Personally, I like to keep my underthings hidden from the general public, but Tina Givens’ esthetic is to wear a vest top or t-shirt underneath so that nothing shows.
However, I did like the asymmetrical hem, the way the garment flowed, loose – but not baggy fit, so I decided to superimpose a good fitting vest top on top of the pattern – and what a difference this made! I used the Sorbetto pattern by Colette – I have played around with this over the years and made adjustments for my bust (I am a ‘C’ cup), sway back, and shoulder slope etc, and placed this over the Jaqueline pattern. I then put my tracing paper on top, merging the side seams of my Sorbetto with those of the Jaqueline, and voila – a great fitting slip top.
For the coral linen/rayon mix version above I bound the arm and neck openings by making the bias binding (I always cut it a little wider than recommended, 1.25”, and fed it through my Clover bias binding tool), attaching it on the wrong side, then flipping it all over to the right side and edge stitching. This means that I have ½” of bias binding showing on the right side and I have found that this helps the binding lay flat.
The hem was finished by using my serger to make a rolled hem. The seams were serged together, then ‘faux fell stitched’ by sewing down the seam twice, edge and top stitching. It takes a little extra time to do this, but I like the flat, professional finish.
As you can see – the asymmetrical hem can fall on either side – depending (cough cough) if you remember what is the wrong side or not! In fact, I have a couple of these slips that I cut out by folding the front and back pieces in half, so I had the long drape on both sides.
The white slip features a small piece of lace just zigzagged to the front:
I also tried a different type of binding for this slip. The bias binding was folded in half and then sewn (with raw edges) to the slip by using my three step zigzag stritch. After washing, it fluffs up rather nicely! I may have since replaced the rolled hem edges of the slips with this binding as well – I love it! I’ve also added pockets to both the trousers (3” down from the waist) and the slips (9” down from the arm opening) on more recent versions, and that makes them much more functional.
What can I say about the patterns? Well, here are my thoughts:
The pattern is available as an immediate .pdf download as well as a printed pattern (I use the .pdf) and comes in sizes 4-18 (up to 43” hips). I ususally use a size 20/22 in most sewing patterns, but by using my own patterns for the neckline and the crotch, these patterns worked well for me. A number of Tina’s patterns go up to a 58” bust, 44” waist and 50” hips – she calls these ‘goddess’ sized! I am a 5’7” cylinder, which I think is 3-4 inches taller than the model that the patterns are designed for, but I didn’t make any height adjustments. The .pdf goes together pretty well, but I did find a few lines didn’t join up properly. Due to the nature of these designs, it doesn’t really matter too much, but it is something to be aware of.
There are no line drawings of the patterns however you can look at the instructions online by going to the design page for the .pdf and viewing them there. The instructions are very sparse but these are very simple patterns. As far as fit is concerned – this is really a style that you either love or hate. I happen to love it! I’m not concerned whether my waist looks smaller or must bust looks perkier (although now that I make my own bras, my bust point has risen an inch, but that is another story!) and does my butt look big? I really don’t care! What I like is to be comfortable and feel good. And I do! I love the flowing fabrics – I’ve been using linen/rayon/cotton mixes that drape beautifully and these garments make me feel very glamorous!
I would say that these patterns are particularly good for the cylinders/apples amongst us. I think that those who like a defined waist may not feel comfortable in this style. As this has now become my signature style, I have been making up a lot of these garments, and will continue to do so!
Finally, the scores on the doors. Here are my ratings!
Size Range: 2/5, but would be higher if this came in the “goddess” range.
Instructions: 3/5. Again, it would have been 5/5 if there were line drawings and more detailed instructions. But quite frankly, these pieces go together so easily, it doesn’t really matter.
Construction Process: 5/5. Yep, it is that easy!
Final Fit: 5/5. I love it!
Overall Rating: 4/5. Just because I love this style!
Lorraine blogs at http://spottydogsocialclub.blogspot.com/
rubye jack says
You look great! I love this look and just finished off the evening with the Phoebe pattern. I’m brand new to sewing but sewed enough in high school that I finally realized there was something very very wrong with this pattern. Namely, the sleeves. They were just too small but since they fit my arm (on paper) I went ahead and sewed the pattern. What a mess! The sleeves are simply way too small for the tunic. However, I saw another person said their Phoebe pattern turned out great. I think it may be that two cuts of the sleeve equal one sleeve somehow? I am very disappointed because other than a couple of PJ bottoms, this was my first project.
Regardless, you seriously look fantastic!
Dani Castley says
I am glad you had success with your patterns, but I would caution that while an apple figure looks good, an apple figure with a large bust does not. I tried two TG patterns. The first had a massive drafting error that had an armhole that wouldn’t fit an arm through, and was marked as goddess, but actually a small. With the huge, drapey nature of the style, this didn’t impact until I tried to wear the blinking thing. The second has major issues; long gapey armholes, neckline too high, shoulders that sat up like wings and a back neckline way too high. With no bust shaping at all, the front hung down like two mountain ranges from the bust point, and the hip area ballooned out like jodphurs. While I expect to have to alter patterns to accommodate my individual shape, I don’t expect to have to redraft totally. I like the style, but I will be looking to other designers, who create better patterns. (ps: I tried to load a picture, but my internet is crazy slow)
fatlady says
The look is both pretty and stylish – but totally impractical in a wet and windy climate, sadly.
Sabrina says
You look stunning in all the outfits. I love the beautiful colors and how comfortable they look. I’m not familiar with her pattern but I do love this look.
Charlotte Holmes says
I love this style & your modifications on the patterns. I’ve made numerous garments from TG patterns & have needed to alter the shoulders in every one–but that’s an easy fix, because the patterns are so simple. The only one I’ve had trouble with is the “Louisa” shirt, where the sleeves were a nightmare. I ended up cutting the garment off at the sleeve line & cutting out a new top part from the “Cleo” tunic, and the result looks great. Her free patterns–“Drennon,” “Plinka,” and “Bloom” are the ones I’ve used–are super easy to make & look nice. What I like about the patterns is that they ARE so easy to modify.
twotoast says
Thank-you ladies for your comments – feedback is always a good thing, and I have enjoyed reading what you have to say. I was lucky (?!) enough to come third in the Artisan’s Square Swap this year – so perhaps this style (or is it a ‘counter style’?) is here to stay – for a bit, anyway! The main thing for me is that I love making these garments – they make me smile when I wear them . . . and I know that other styles don’t suit me as much. So find your style – and have fun! And don’t forget to share with the rest of us!! Now, I’m off to work on my Autumn/Winter wardrobe – I’m not sure how well I can get this to work with -30c weather and snow, but I’m up for the challenge!!
twotoast (aka Lorraine)
dee says
Great review and very helpful info, I don’t think the style will work for me as a very peary-pear. Looking forward to more of your reviews.
Lesley says
Sorry I can’t agree w your review. I found the patterns to be so lacking in any kind of patternmaking as to be laughable. I like the look of the styles but wonder if a better fitting pattern adapted (as you have more or less done) would be better. My friend looked so much better in the garments I made her, after I made massive numbers of basic adjustments. I thought the process would have been quicker if I had drafted patterns from scratch. Ill fitting sleeves were a stand out. My review here…http://sewniptuck.com/2015/04/11/lagenlook-or-bust-maybe-both/
twotoast says
I took a look at your post – and I have to say that I love the garments that you have made . . . especially the Peplone jacket with the contrast trim. It is gorgeous! I have to make a number of alterations when I use any other type of pattern – so I found the TG patterns easier to alter as there are not many pieces. It’s a shame that you found them such a pain – but that is the problem that I have with the big 4! It’s a good job that we are all different as it means that there is more choice!
twotoast (aka Lorraine)
Theresa Stefancik says
I’ve had some hits and misses with the TG patterns, but the ones that work (Phoebe & Bianca)
really work well. I do get frustrated that Tina doesn’t see fit to give good line drawings as while artsy the photos often times don’t give any clue as to the details of any particular garment
pearlredmoon says
Lorraine, you look fabulous…and so comfortable! The lagenlook is so flattering for you. Tina Givens patterns are truly lagenlook and she has recently responded to customer feedback by adapting many of her patterns to a closer fit around the shoulders, particularly to correct the issue with the very deep arm scye of most of her designs.
I’m flattered to be credited with bringing the look to your attention!
Pearl Moon, in Murrurundi Australia
http://www.pearlredmoon.com
boho-banjo-art-to-wear.myshopify.com
Sheila Perl says
You look fabulous in your signature style!! I’ll take a look at Tina Givens 🙂
Sophie-Lee @ Two Random Words says
Lorraine you look fabulous! I love seeing patterns that are so loved they get made up several times
Monserratt Lopez says
Goodness! These tunics are beautfiul!!
Thanks Lorraine for introducing us to Tina!! Her patterns are gorgeous!!
😉
Donna Black says
Why does this post appear to be authored by “Jenny” but is really someone else’s writing and pictures. This is not ethical.
Jenny R says
That was caused by a glitch in WordPress and has now been sorted. Perhaps you should give people the benefit of the doubt and have a little understanding before accusing people of being unethical in a public forum.
Gillian says
Donna, I think all the posts get emailed to Jenny, and then she puts them into wordpress to post them. (That’s how it’s worked when I’ve blogged her, at least!) I imagine it’s easy to miss setting the correct author! 🙂
jean fink says
I am so glad you reviewed these patterns. Have been really interested in them for quite a while.Thank you—and you look lovely!
itssewnice says
I’m so glad you did a Tina Givens. I have been watching her patterns for a very long time now. I am an apple at its shiniest for sure so this style would work on me. I’d love it you could somehow line up every model you made of this with short notes about the fabrics and changes you made written below in bullet form. Thanks so much for reviewing this.
twotoast says
I will work on that – and will post that soon on my blog! Thanks for the suggestion.
twotoast (aka Lorraine)
Gillian says
Side note for Jenny or the CSC: I can’t find any mention in the post of who this lovely lady is, or where she blogs! Could you give her a bit of bio??
splendidcakes says
It’s twotoast of spottydogsocialclub.blogspot.com! And she rocks:)
splendidcakes says
That’s .com- I don’t know why discus is hiding it… Perhaps to foil evil bots.
Gillian says
Thank you!!
Jenny R says
Sorted! WordPress was being glitchy this morning 🙂
Gillian says
Thank you! 🙂
Gillian says
Oh my gosh, you look AMAZING! Really, this isn’t a style that appeals to me for myself, but you looks happy, stylish, and interesting – you know, the person you’d want to talk to! I hope you keep making more from the patterns – I’m curious to see how it all goes!
Janet says
I really appreciate this post. I love to read about someone feeling so good in her clothes. I especially like the last pic with the beautiful colours and necklace. Stunning! Also, a lovely finishing idea with the raw edge ruffled and the lace. Keep rocking your Lagenlook!