Hello readers! Welcome to another post focused on Simplicity patterns during Curvy Simplicity Week!
Today, I am sharing my thoughts on Simplicity 8137 in a navy blue crepe lined with black rayon.
Pattern name: Simplicity 8137; the pattern includes a top, dress (knee length and full length), and pants. I made the top.
Size range: 20W-28W
What size did you make? 28W
What are your measurements, height, and body type?
Measurements: 51-46-56
Body Shape: Hourglass with extra sand on the bottom.
Height: 5’4″
Bra size: 44HH
*Note: I received this pattern free of charge in return for a review on the CSC.
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take?
I narrowed the shoulders by 1 inch and did a large bicep adjustment of 3 inches as well as adding 1 inch to each side seam in order to give adequate room to the armscye for the bicep adjustment. After doing a quick tissue fit, I figured an FBA wasn’t necessary since the princess seams crossed the apex in the correct location, but narrowing the shoulder and a large bicep adjustment would be necessary. This is actually the least I’ve done for anything I’ve sewn up in a while from the Big 4. Simplicity patterns aren’t widely available in Canada and the shipping/duty charges tend not to make ordering from the website manageable so this is only the second time I have used a Simplicity pattern, but after seeing how few adjustments I needed, I will be asking my US friends to send me a couple of patterns in the future. I also have a few in my pattern stash that are untouched, but are probably going to go up in my sewing queue now!
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you?
The construction process went okay. The instructions were a bit…lacking. I looked over them several times, but didn’t see where it referred to actually sewing up the lining before you sew the lining to the bodice or sewing the side seams. They aren’t the kind of instructions for a beginner to follow, but I was okay. The pattern doesn’t have a difficulty rating, but I would place it in advanced beginner simply based on the instructions. With better instructions, there is nothing at all complicated with the design or construction and a beginner could complete it, but the missing parts would confuse them.
I decided to save time and not slip stitch the lining at the waist by hand during construction and simply treated the lining and main fabric as one piece in attaching the peplum to it. It worked out just fine, but is maybe not as neat of a look as the design intended. I finished all my seams on the serger.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? Do you think the design works well for your particular body shape?
I think the pattern fits pretty well! I do think it tends toward being wide and low in the v-neck. For someone who works in a conservative setting, this is a slight issue. I felt more comfortable wearing a camisole underneath the top as it does go quite low. The wrap top is fixed by snaps and the ties don’t actually have much function beside a design feature and a bit of cinching in at the waist. They don’t pull in the fronts as much as traditional wrap tops where they are affixed to the ends of the bodice and slipped through at the waist. That makes the construction a lot easier since they are sewn in at the side seams and waist but it doesn’t help keep the bodice v together like traditional wrap top designs. I think the wrap design is great for my body shape and would work for a lot of people since it goes in at the waist and flares at the hips adding a nice curve. Overall, the fit is really good except for the low front.
Will you make the pattern again? If so, what fit or design changes will you make?
I will make this again for sure. I will probably add another couple of snaps to this version to cinch in the front and make the v-neckline a bit less revealing. In future versions, I will raise the neckline, as well as add in extra snaps so that the v shape stays in place. I can see this becoming a staple in my wardrobe in both the top version and the dress version. I doubt I will make the pants, though, since my hips do go beyond the 28W sizing and I don’t really wear pants anyway. I can also see how this top would look nice with a pencil skirt or even a circle skirt on the bottom. So it works quite well with my wardrobe.
Do you have any advice on this pattern for other curvy sewers? Are there any resources (blog posts, fitting books, tutorials) that helped you sew this piece up?
I suggest you don’t sew this up as a novice (unless you have an intermediate sewing buddy to guide you) since the instructions are a bit confusing. You may want to raise the front v based on your own preferences.
Pattern Rating (1-5):
Size Range: 4
Instructions: 3
Construction Process: 4
Final Fit: 4.5
Overall Rating: 3.785 … 4 (Bumping it up since I think this is a little low for what the pattern deserves in spite of the missing parts in the instructions)
Overall, I really liked the pattern and was pleasantly surprised that Simplicity sizing works so well for me! I bumped up the rating because the fit was great out of the package without a lot of alterations. The design is flattering due to the princess seams, ties, and the flare of the peplum. The instructions are lacking a couple of details, but overall they shouldn’t stump an advanced beginner or above. I can see this becoming a wardrobe staple for me and think you’ll be seeing a full length dress version on me in the summer next year!
Thank you for the excellent review. I would not have known about this pattern if not for your review of it. It’s such a nicely draped style. You look great in it! I just might try it for myself now.
Very pretty! I had not paid much attention to this pattern before, but I’m giving it a second look now! You did a great job.
Thanks so much, Leigh Ann! 🙂
I don’t think I would have noticed this pattern if not for your review. I like it quite a bit, and that color is great on you. It seems from this review and the Wardrobe by Me review, that woven wrap dresses with shaping lines/seams/ features of different types have wonky directions or some construction issues. Still, looks like it was worthwhile to get a lovely top.
Thanks so much, L’Anne. I’ve made a fair few wrap dress/top patterns and they all seem to have different construction methods. Definitely worthwhile, though. 🙂
It is hard to believe that you did not do an FBA; the bodice fit is awesome. Altogether the top does you justice. It lets us see just how pretty you are. And while the neckline might be a bit much for work, it is gorgeous for a date night.
Thanks, Kyra! You are the sweetest! <3
Andie, you did a great job on this top. I am thrilled that you liked the top and were able to fine tune the fit. I think it is so flattering on you. I am of course sorry that you found the instructions lacking and now that I heard this i will be taking a look at them to sed if we want to update them! Love seeing you projects on Instagram. Good work. Debek301
Thanks, Deb! I can’t wait to make more. Although, I’ll probably wait until Spring since it’s about to be Winter here. lol.
Looks great on you. A lovely classic look that you can wear to work but also to formal occasions.
Thanks so much! 🙂
It looks great and has inspired me to make a wrap top. I was looking at the one from designerstitch.com as her pattern fit and instructions are amazing.
I enjoyed reading your review.
Thanks, Kim! That designerstich.com wrap dress looks great. 😀
You look great. I love the fact that you can make this with a woven. Do you think seersucker would be too stiff? I’ve been dying to make something with seersucker. 🙂 I’m going to definitely get this pattern.
Thanks, Cindy. I think seersucker might be a bit too stiff for this pattern. I hope you find something great for the seersucker fabric! 😀
Very pretty top, and it looks good on you! – I notice the neck is quite wide and wonder if redrafting the neckline so that it comes at least an inch closer to your neck on each side, maybe 1 1/2″, and then draft new centre front lines from there down to the front bottom edges would effectively bring the two sides closer together at the bustline, perhaps raising the low “v” enough to not need a camisole. My measurements are very similar to yours so I was thinking about how I would alter this pattern for myself! I know larger sizes are machine-graded, and I wonder if it is the machine-grading that has made the neckline so wide, effectively pushing the shoulders way out. Of course a wide neckline might be preferred for evening wear, but not so much during the day.
Thanks, Allyson. That would work. It’s only slightly too wide and low so it wouldn’t need much of an alteration.
I have the beginnings of this dress on my machine right now! Great review.
That’s so awesome, Dianne! I hope you share it to the FB group or on flickr. 🙂
Very pretty both the model and the top! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks so much, Dara! 🙂
I am so excited abound this series because Simplicity patterns are my favorite, and I’ve been pleasantly surprised recently by the variety of classics, on-trend designs, and vintage styles they’re releasing. And I love seeing beautiful dresses made up, but I’m a sportswear girl myself, so this post is of particular use to me. Thank you for the detailed review!
This blouse looks outstanding on you – the color, the drape, the wrap style. The side view is especially darling, with that tied waist and flouncy peplum.
Simplicity and New Look patterns are infamously wide and low in the neckline, and their sportswear instructions are confusing because they try to cram so many views in there together at once. But I, too, have good luck with the fit overall, which makes these annoyances minor.
I have this pattern in my stash, and you’ve convinced me to give it a go. I could see it made up in a drapey wool and long sleeves for fall!
Thanks so much, Bex! I’m really impressed so far with the patterns I’ve used. I wish they were more widely available in Canada, but I have friends in the US that can send me them. 🙂 I think it would look great in drapey wool with sleeves. 😀
This looks really good – but a shoulder reduction of a full inch, and you don’t look to have exceptionally narrow shoulders … I do wish they would provide *detailed* measurement charts.
I do also wish this had been published LAST week during the Simplicity half-price sale! I’ll have to wait 6 months until the next one 🙁 …
I do have narrow shoulders, actually. I should have maybe done a 2 inch shoulder reduction, because the shoulder seam is still not quite sitting in the right place. A detailed measurement chart with shoulder width would be great!
Sorry it missed the sale.
Oh my goodness — I love this shirt! I have been looking for a woven wrap top/dress and yours looks amazing!
One question, now that you’ve worn the shirt for a while, do you find that it slips down your shoulders throughout the day? I’ve noticed that woven wrap dresses can “open up” at the top and start creeping off the shoulder. In your photos, it looks like the shoulder seam is a bit wide (despite your narrowing of the shoulder) and I’m wondering if you’ve found the same thing.
Thanks so much, Jennifer! 🙂 I didn’t have a problem with it slipping off my shoulder. Although, I did have a problem with the neckline gaping. I definitely think the shoulder seam should be narrowed by about another inch or so as well as raising and the neckline slightly.
Hi Andie,
This top really suits you, it’s a very flattering shape and one of those designs that could sit in either the smart or casual camp. I think regardless of wear the V sits a camisole or vest top looks really nice underneath. My bust sits quite low on my chest so I often have to do this for any shop brought wrap tops so I’m glad you mentioned it in regard to this pattern. Simplicity is widely available in the UK and for me only needs a tweak here and there for my sizing. I really like this top now I’ve seen this on you and will consider the pattern for myself. The top will look great with jeans or smart trousers and I may even make the dress too! Thank you for a concise and fair review.
Stripey hugs, T x
Thanks so much, T! I hope you like the pattern a lot too! 😀